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Old 08-26-2012, 09:06 AM   #30301
Nice_Rumble
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ramz View Post
Thanks Ramz.
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Old 08-26-2012, 09:48 AM   #30302
HardWorkingDog
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nice_Rumble View Post
Got a weepy left fork seal. I believe there is a bit of dirt lodged in the seal and will do the "credit card" trick. Now that some fluid has leaked out what's the best way to get it back to specs? Measure fluid height from the top of the fork leg? Anyone know what OEM specs and weight should be?
Good luck. In my experience you're going to need something thinner and more flexible than a credit card. I've used a paper index card successfully, and some 35mm film (what's that???) but I also had the film break off inside the fork...

Motion Pro makes a handy little tool that works pretty well.

The problem is that if you're going to all the trouble to pull the forks out, remove the cap, remove the spring and pushrod just to add a few cc's of oil you may as well replace the seals and put all new fork oil in and be done with it.

Do you have any idea how much oil seeped out? If you can clean the seal and stop the leak, and you know the oil is fresh (say, less than a year old) then I'd be tempted to just pop the bleeder screw on the cap and drizzle in a few cc's of oil and not worry about it. If not, I'd go ahead and do the seals and bushings and new oil all around.
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Old 08-26-2012, 09:58 AM   #30303
Bob in Indy
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Does the setting only take after turning the ign. off?

Quote:
Originally Posted by GSBS View Post
...or one click here
So...after changing the setting and starting the bike, can you take it for a ride still in diag mode and make adjustments on the fly while seeing how they affect it? Or... do the settings only take effect after turning the ignition off? I wasn't 100% clear on this from the write up.

My stock setting was at 0... I took it out for a ride still in diag mode and tried a few other settings to see how each affected the bike. I went from -4 to +4... I "think" I could tell a little difference, but honestly I'm not sure if I really could or if it was my imagination.

Thanks for any insight...

Bob
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Old 08-26-2012, 10:19 AM   #30304
ramz
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From the referenced post:

The nice thing is that you can adjust it on the fly to as many different settings as you want and it saves the last number used when the key is turned off.
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Old 08-26-2012, 10:29 AM   #30305
what broke now
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Fuel Pump

I am in the mood for a fuel pump spare, anyone on here have an old take-out they would part with?
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Old 08-26-2012, 10:52 AM   #30306
Nice_Rumble
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HardWorkingDog View Post
The problem is that if you're going to all the trouble to pull the forks out, remove the cap, remove the spring and pushrod just to add a few cc's of oil you may as well replace the seals and put all new fork oil in and be done with it.
It's the original fluid from '08 so you're right, best to just go ahead and flush the tubes and refill with fresh fluid and new seals. I'll take them to factory Connection.
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Old 08-26-2012, 10:59 AM   #30307
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The WRR was struggling to get up this with my fat ass on it. :( I think I was in first gear pretty much the whole time.

Going UP the Poughkeepsie Gulch Trail in Colorado.

This trail is very steep. It goes from 10,143 to 12,546 feet in about 4 miles.

This trail is probably the most technically challenging trail in the Ouray area. It connects Mineral Creek on one end to California Gulch and Hurricane Pass on the other end.

It also has a huge Rock Obstacle in the middle called the wall. Unfortunately my batteries died before getting to that part. :(

Enjoy!

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Old 08-26-2012, 12:20 PM   #30308
Bob in Indy
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ramz View Post
From the referenced post:

The nice thing is that you can adjust it on the fly to as many different settings as you want and it saves the last number used when the key is turned off.
Thanks. Yeah, I know that's what it said, but I guess I was just looking for confirmation from someone who's modified the setting (on the fly) and saw a measurable difference. I just didn't notice a tremendous change when playing around with various settings myself. I see no reason why it wouldn't work that way, was just skeptical based on my experience is all.
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Old 08-26-2012, 01:50 PM   #30309
jon_l
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Quote:
Originally Posted by duanew1 View Post
My 2003 Z1000 with about 4 times the power and fuel injection does not have any snatchiness. I knew the WR could be better.
Yeah, same with my Honda CBF1000
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Old 08-26-2012, 05:49 PM   #30310
pfy50
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jon_l View Post
So which G2 throttle tamer are you guys buying? Nothing but sport bikes listed.
Get the Dirt Tamer $49.00 http://www.g2ergo.com/g2-tamer-throttle-tube-40.html it's cheaper and just as good for WRR. It has a fixed cam choice, 15% slower A400 cam than the stock rapid cam #100. For extra $20.00 I got the pro model with the delrin bearing to smooth it out a little more. IT does alleviate the snatch throttle some.
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Old 08-26-2012, 07:29 PM   #30311
bradrh
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wolfman e-12

Quote:
Originally Posted by jon_l View Post

Does anyone else have E-12s and a tailrack mounted? I'd love to see photos of how you solved the puzzle.
I loosened up the rack and used all the straps they provided. The rear cinch strap didn't cinch down as easily as it did on my DR due to the shape of the fender, but once I worked it a little it seems to be holding well. The rear wide strap is tucked under the front of the cargo rack.







The 3rd pic down shows the bike with the saddle bags and the renegade duffle
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=816651
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Old 08-27-2012, 03:36 AM   #30312
jon_l
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bradrh View Post
I loosened up the rack and used all the straps they provided. The rear cinch strap didn't cinch down as easily as it did on my DR due to the shape of the fender, but once I worked it a little it seems to be holding well. The rear wide strap is tucked under the front of the cargo rack.



The 3rd pic down shows the bike with the saddle bags and the renegade duffle
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=816651
Thanks Brad. I couldn't seem to get the hooks to pull evenly on the WRR tail, so I swapped in an old strap to the rack, and am pleased.



I like the look (and price) of the Renegade Duffel. I have been looking at the small Expedition Dry Duffel too. I have several Seal-Line (canoe) drybags which I could use with Rok-Straps, but I really like the extra tie-down points Wollfman provides.
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Old 08-27-2012, 04:38 PM   #30313
jon_l
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Kenda Trackmaster K760 questions

Our bike is spec'd for 120/80-18 rear tire.

Rear Trackmasters are all ___/100-18.

Do you guys run the 100/100-18, or the 110/100-18?

Are these tire "true to size" like T-63s, or large diameter like MT-43s?
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Old 08-27-2012, 08:30 PM   #30314
Dirtnadvil
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If you were going to trade your WR away, what would you replace it with?

I have been toying with the thought of getting a different bike for a couple of years but I have sofar been unable to find another bike to replace the WR. I want a carburated bike due to the places we ride.
My needs are basic;
300 lbs or less
50mpg or greater
ability to carry gear
good suspension
reliability
easy to work on* (carby)
6 speed
smooth motor
starter , optional kick start would be nice
30+ hp
decent aftermarket parts

there are other needs but they are not deal breakers. I was wondering what other bikes you have owned that were close to the WR?
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Old 08-27-2012, 11:03 PM   #30315
andy mac
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jon_l View Post
Our bike is spec'd for 120/80-18 rear tire.

Rear Trackmasters are all ___/100-18.

Do you guys run the 100/100-18, or the 110/100-18?

Are these tire "true to size" like T-63s, or large diameter like MT-43s?
I 've used both, the 100/100 was too skinny for optimum traction in mud but I was happy with the 110/100. Guessing they are between a T63 and MT43 in height.

Quote:
Originally Posted by indypup View Post
Nice trail, amazing how video flattens out the hills - it didn't look too steep until you tipped off and rolled so far downhill from your bike
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