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Old 09-16-2012, 06:21 AM   #30616
simmons1
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ADVCoop View Post
Yeah but not nearly as ugly haha.
So use a blue or white one
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Old 09-16-2012, 06:35 AM   #30617
scoprire
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I haven't really thought about this since I put the bolts on there. Now you guys have me thinking again. I was originally hoping for something like the Dzus. I don't remember if I just didn't want to drill out my seat pan or what. I may have to go have another look at it today.
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Old 09-16-2012, 07:37 AM   #30618
Shawnee Bill
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ADVCoop View Post
Yeah but not nearly as ugly haha.

Hey, we're not talking KLR here.







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Old 09-16-2012, 07:48 AM   #30619
HardWorkingDog
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Quick disconnect for seat bolts? Am I the only one going ?

A solution in search of a problem.
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Old 09-16-2012, 08:18 AM   #30620
simmons1
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Shawnee Bill View Post
Hey, we're not talking KLR here.








Watch it! I have had a Bungy holding my KLR seat on for the last 20K miles.
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Old 09-16-2012, 09:46 AM   #30621
duanew1
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HardWorkingDog View Post
Quick disconnect for seat bolts? Am I the only one going ?

A solution in search of a problem.
I am a fan of the mod. Below the seat is the best place to hide required documents in a waterproof container. It just needs to be easier to get to when required.
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Old 09-16-2012, 09:57 AM   #30622
TwilightZone
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>"I am a fan of the mod. Below the seat is the best place to hide required documents in a waterproof container."

Moved tools to tailbag. Use a freezer bag (waterproof) to contain documents in the old tool case... or just stuff 'em in there.
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Old 09-16-2012, 01:14 PM   #30623
Feelers
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Hey all,

I am curious about alternator on the WR. Does anyone have a handy flywheel that they could measure for me? I am just looking for the ID and OD of the magneto section, and the ID of the hole for the shaft.
Thank you for any help!
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Old 09-16-2012, 02:48 PM   #30624
Gfacter
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So I got the Coleman seat cover and tested it today,

Pros improved on-road seat comfort.

Cons makes the already tall seat even taller.

Back in the trails I had some trouble manuvering the bike and getting started after stopped, I might have to go with the lower seat cover after all.

On that note I found some ATV type trails lots of ruts, hill climbs, mud puddles, streams, Great fun and in places above my skill level,

I now have a curved brake lever !

The pics do not show the steepness of these hills.







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Old 09-16-2012, 06:27 PM   #30625
scoprire
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HardWorkingDog View Post
Quick disconnect for seat bolts? Am I the only one going ?

A solution in search of a problem.
For the most part it's simply because I'm lazy. I shouldn't have to go and get tools for somethings simple as taking the seat off. For the same reason, both of my side panels use Dzus fasteners for tool free removal. It's quicker, and simpler.


I guess I should thank you guys for giving me ideas to look at this again. Even though you did make me work.

This was really pretty quick and easy. I used stainless bolts since I had some already. All it takes is:
2 - 6mm socket head bolts. Something 20-25mm long will work. As short as 15mm might work, but I wouldn't try any shorter.
2 - 6mm washers
2 - retaining pins. Either R type or safety pin type work.

I drilled the bolt heads like I would for safety wire. Drill for the size pin you are going to use. I wanted something a little bigger, so I drilled them 7/64. Since it was stainless, I used a cobalt bit.

I used blue loctite for now; eventually I will probably replace that w/ red.

The seat does take an extra push forward when mounting it to get the bolt head to drop into the frame slots, but there is no need to modify the frame or bolt heads to get them to fit.

Leave the holes at an angle to the seat/frame. The bolt on the right is a better angle than the left one in the pic.


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Old 09-16-2012, 07:05 PM   #30626
bhd1223
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scoprire View Post
For the most part it's simply because I'm lazy. I shouldn't have to go and get tools for somethings simple as taking the seat off. For the same reason, both of my side panels use Dzus fasteners for tool free removal. It's quicker, and simpler.


I guess I should thank you guys for giving me ideas to look at this again. Even though you did make me work.

This was really pretty quick and easy. I used stainless bolts since I had some already. All it takes is:
2 - 6mm socket head bolts. Something 20-25mm long will work. As short as 15mm might work, but I wouldn't try any shorter.
2 - 6mm washers
2 - retaining pins. Either R type or safety pin type work.

I drilled the bolt heads like I would for safety wire. Drill for the size pin you are going to use. I wanted something a little bigger, so I drilled them 7/64. Since it was stainless, I used a cobalt bit.

I used blue loctite for now; eventually I will probably replace that w/ red.

The seat does take an extra push forward when mounting it to get the bolt head to drop into the frame slots, but there is no need to modify the frame or bolt heads to get them to fit.

Leave the holes at an angle to the seat/frame. The bolt on the right is a better angle than the left one in the pic.


Is there any movement in the seat with it mounted like this? Seems like there is some room for play in those bolt holes. Is it set with the pins under tension where you have to push down on the seat to be able to slide the pins in? Can you throw some feedback out on this and compare to your threaded lynch pin method after some riding time?
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Old 09-16-2012, 07:35 PM   #30627
freetors
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HardWorkingDog View Post
Quick disconnect for seat bolts? Am I the only one going ?

A solution in search of a problem.
I have these thumb screws from McMaster holding my seat on. Can't remember what length I bought though...

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Old 09-16-2012, 07:49 PM   #30628
scoprire
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bhd1223 View Post
Is there any movement in the seat with it mounted like this? Seems like there is some room for play in those bolt holes. Is it set with the pins under tension where you have to push down on the seat to be able to slide the pins in? Can you throw some feedback out on this and compare to your threaded lynch pin method after some riding time?
It doesn't require pushing down on the seat to set the pins in place right now. The left side will let the seat lift MAYBE 1/32. Since I just got this done this afternoon, no riding time on it yet. I figure if it does wiggle, a rubber pad around the bolt hole will give it some tension.

That's why the blue loctite right now. Once I get some riding in w/ it and decide it doesn't need any more tweaks, I'll post back.
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Old 09-16-2012, 08:00 PM   #30629
Mike_drz
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tmotten View Post
That bike looks awesome. Have you got a picture of that nomad tank mounted? How come you chose that plus the safari tank over getting the ims one which is about the same size combined? I prefer the look of the safari tank. But really need those extra three litres from the ims.

How do you find the screen? Does it affect the wind on the helmet visor much?

a screen may give you lower bottom side pressure on the helmet visor, therefore creates downforce. much less wind hitting the face too.
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Old 09-17-2012, 01:41 AM   #30630
monkey
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New counter sprocket

Quote:
Originally Posted by Yam2Yam2 View Post
Because I'm riding a WRr 100% on the street (not by choice). But-I put a 14t sprocket on today, and am thrilled and surprised by the change.

I've mostly been puttering around on backroads, and the stock bike, with free airbox and muffler mods, was happiest around 52 mph. It would go faster, but just didn't feel best. With the 14t, it wants to run 65 actual mph, and is smoother than it had been! I know that doesn't compute, I was turning 5500 vs 6400 now. I think the engine is happy to be loaded more - maybe a FI thing... Coming off a 4-way stop, and turning used to be awkward. 1st was too low, I had to be careful with the throttle, and I had to shift mid-corner. Now I just take off like I have on all my previous bikes, and can shift to second after I've straightened up. For the first time, I had absolutely NO numbness in my hands.

Top speed remains at 84 mph (well-it was windy today, so maybe the bike is a bit faster!). In 5th, the bike pulled up a medium-slope hill at 77 mph with a 10 mph headwind. (WeatherUnderground's local weatherstations are great for finding out stuff like this).

Anyhow, I much recommend gearing UP for those o you who road ride alot.
Hi all, I've just completed a 700k all highway ride with the new 14t c/s and some of you may be interested in my findings.

My WR has the 290 BB kit, power pipe, Yammy racing exhaust, a small windscreen and new Bridgestone TW rear tyre.
Me and bag weigh in at approx 90kg (around 185 pounds).

Bike cruised nicely at 110kph (68mph), can sit on 120kph (75mph) and accelerate even then if necessary (a little) but a headwind will slow her down a noticeably. My bike appears to have a sweet-spot at 105kph. No vibrations anywhere in the speed range and comfortable with the Sweetcheeks seat cover and screen, no fatigue at all.

Fuel consumption was 4 litres per 100ks which is about 53 mpg (US gallons). That's all highway riding at the above speeds. Range was 174 klm (44 k with the LowFuel light on) and 6.88 litres to fill her again.

As an aside, the speedo is now spot-on accurate with the GPS speed indicator, right through the speed range.

She can still carry a pillion passenger, one chunky chick, no worries but wheelies are a little harder.

So my experience with the 14t sprocket is all positive, allbeit, highway use, which is 90% of my thing. More than anything she seems to rev a fair bit lower. I love this little girl even more now. Regards John.
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