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Old 09-19-2012, 02:27 PM   #30661
woofer2609
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New owner...few questions

Hello, I've been lurking here for the past few months. I cut my teeth on an 2000 xt225 which I still own, and just purchased an '08 wr250x w/ 1900 miles on it. It's in great condition, new larger diameter handlebar, dropped once at walking speed, so some very minor cosmetic scratches. I'm sure it will see worse It has the smaller modified brake light and Baja turn signals, which I will be removing and going back to larger signals, as it will be a 50/50 bike and I like to be visible on the street.
I used the XT for everything from riding 400 km's to Dual sport events with camping equipment and a spare wheel w/ a Trackmaster on it mounted to the Moose Expedition rear rack, to riding through singletrack, to riding 2-up for touring/ camping the back roads on Van. Island. I was happy with the XT, but found it a little anemic at altitude, and it kinda felt "small" after a while (I'm only 5'11, but still). It also seemed to hiccup a lot when accelerating at altitude due to it being jetted for sea level.
I will probably sell the XT, but want to equip the WR in a similar fashion, ie. one bike for everything, and two sets of wheels. As I live in the city and two bikes is hardly feasible for one person. I'd love some feedback on the following:

1. Apparently there is not an adaptor to be able to use stock r wheels with the x front fork, correct?
I ask because I can get a great deal on a set of OEM r wheels

2. Assuming buying a second set of wheels with 18 and 21" rims and x hubs is the best idea, what are peoples experience with the Warp 9 wheels. I have read mixed reviews. I am tempted to go with the Wheeling(sp?) set for considerably more. Thoughts? What is the Warp 9 warranty like in the real world?

3. I own a Moose Expedition rack designed for use with Pelican Cases, which is fantastic. I welded up a system to make Ortlieb panniers work with the same rack. I will only be using the Ortlieb soft luggage from now on. I am assuming that the closest thing to the Moose rack is the Turbo City Denali, and I am assuming I can mount my panniers to them.
Happy trails rack looks too thick to use Ortlieb mounts, and would have to be modified to work with my panniers.
Cycle racks looks interesting, but to use panniers, I would have to weld something to it to keep the panniers from swinging in and rubbing the tire and wheels.
So...Is anybody using large 20 or so liter Ortlieb panniers with this bike, and what rack do they have? I'd like to have a tail rack as part of the system

4. This bike has stock gearing. I feel it could be revving a little higher to make use of 6th where I live. Keeping in mind that I would like to get a set of 18 and 21" wheels, what gearing will accomplish this with the x wheels and what does similar gearing look like toothwise for the bigger wheels so that the same chain can be used? I'm open to advice!

5. Mods I'm looking at an FMF exhaust, maybe the q4. Does it make much of a difference in noise and performance? Does the EXUP system need to be removed, or can it be left in place?

6. Is the Electronic power controller unit a must, would you purchase it before the new pipe?

7. Been reading about the Lean Angle adjustment, is this the first thing one should do?

8. Anybody here move to an wrx from an XT and now running it as an wrr?

Thanks for all the input, can't wait to get the wheels rolling!
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Old 09-19-2012, 03:51 PM   #30662
jrou111
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Quick question... Does anyone know the bolt size and pitch for an FMF Q4 pipe? My stock pipe cracked and I have this one laying around.
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Old 09-19-2012, 04:54 PM   #30663
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>"4. This bike has stock gearing. I feel it could be revving a little higher to make use of 6th where I live. Keeping in mind that I would like to get a set of 18 and 21" wheels, what gearing will accomplish this with the x wheels and what does similar gearing look like toothwise for the bigger wheels so that the same chain can be used? I'm open to advice!"

Lots of sprocket combos. I went with 14 tooth on the countershaft, with a 50 tooth on the rear. The 14 tooth seems to keep the chain away from the 'chain guide' and the swingarm pivot. Going overloaded in Baja diced the chain guard in 1500 miles.
If you aren't overloaded, I think the 13x47 is also pretty good.

>"5. Mods I'm looking at an FMF exhaust, maybe the q4. Does it make much of a difference in noise and performance? Does the EXUP system need to be removed, or can it be left in place?"

I have one, the FMF Q4is pretty loud. Some folks buy a smaller exhaust 'nozzle' for it. See the wrrdualsport.com for more info. I removed the EXUP system and added a third party plug. I tried the resistor fix, then the plug, I think the plug works better. You can also leave the exup mechanism stock, weighs an extra pound.

>"6. Is the Electronic power controller unit a must, would you purchase it before the new pipe?"

Electronic power controller makes a big difference. Probably won't do much until you add a pipe. (and maybe header too). Remove the flap from the top of the airbox too.

>"7. Been reading about the Lean Angle adjustment, is this the first thing one should do?"

Eh? What's the lean angle adjustment?


For another set of WRR info, try this site...

http://www.wrrdualsport.com/
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Old 09-20-2012, 07:04 AM   #30664
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Regarding the 10cup mod: is there a part number and good place to order the fuel tube weights, vacuum pump and special barbed fitting, and some of those little socks on the pickup tubes?
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Old 09-20-2012, 07:44 AM   #30665
byron555
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Trying to Help

Quote:
Originally Posted by woofer2609 View Post

6. Is the Electronic power controller unit a must, would you purchase it before the new pipe?

7. Been reading about the Lean Angle adjustment, is this the first thing one should do?

Thanks for all the input, can't wait to get the wheels rolling!
It's my understanding that you can adjust Lean Angle to compensate for the addition of a new pipe, which means the Electronic Power Controller is optional. (an expensive one at that)
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Old 09-20-2012, 08:00 AM   #30666
pfy50
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Quote:
Originally Posted by freetors View Post
Regarding the 10cup mod: is there a part number and good place to order the fuel tube weights, vacuum pump and special barbed fitting, and some of those little socks on the pickup tubes?
Hey freetors;

The vacuum pump comes from the importer of Safari tanks https://northcoastmotorsports.com/co...action=success Ask for Ben.
They may also have the sock material but that came with the tank so Northcoast motorsports may or may not have more.

The brass fuel pickups you can get at http://www.out2win.com/catalog/fueltanks.html.
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Old 09-20-2012, 08:02 AM   #30667
pfy50
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Wheel balancing ?

Help

Anyone have a closeup photo or can make one of WRR spoked wheel that was balanced using SPOKE weights(not the stick-ons). Question as to mounting and clamping them ON or above the nipple?

TNX
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Old 09-20-2012, 08:07 AM   #30668
bash3r
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Crawdaddy View Post
I'll be relieved "if" it's something simple...

Is there a way to test that or just drop a few $$ and put in a new one? P/N & Location?
Chris.. what was the cause of your issues a while back.. I dont' know if I read up on what the outcome was?!? I mean.. I know you can't be without your WR for two long since you ride all dang year long
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Old 09-20-2012, 08:24 AM   #30669
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Quote:
Originally Posted by freetors View Post
Regarding the 10cup mod: is there a part number and good place to order the fuel tube weights, vacuum pump and special barbed fitting, and some of those little socks on the pickup tubes?
You can get everything you need here , talk to Chris or Mark,except the fitting that is used on the vacuum pump. That has to come from "Just Gas Tanks" Call and talk to Ben.

The sock's that you refer too came on my fuel lines from Safari so they may have some at the link above for the pump fittings.
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Old 09-20-2012, 09:26 AM   #30670
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bash3r View Post
Chris.. what was the cause of your issues a while back.. I dont' know if I read up on what the outcome was?!? I mean.. I know you can't be without your WR for two long since you ride all dang year long
Haven't gotten back to it yet......maybe this weekend......I'd like to have the WR250R ready for my annual Primm/Bar 10 event in two weeks: http://crawdadoffroadevents.com/core-calendar/view/21

If not, I'll just take my 300XCW or 230F
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Old 09-20-2012, 01:29 PM   #30671
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Quote:
Originally Posted by byron555 View Post
It's my understanding that you can adjust Lean Angle to compensate for the addition of a new pipe, which means the Electronic Power Controller is optional. (an expensive one at that)


Umm....unless they've suddenly made radical changes to the WRR, the lean angle sensor is there to shut the motor off if you tip over.

What you might mean is the mod to allow easy access to diagnostic mode (to get at the CO setting), which involves grounding a pin in the same connector that attaches to the lean angle sensor.

If it's the latter, don't bother. Mucking with the CO setting doesn't get you where you need to go IMO (I tried it....ended up buying a EJK from Dobeck Performance).

If you 1) replace the pipe and 2) open the top of the airbox, you should 3) purchase some sort of fuel controller to make sure you don't end up running too lean and fry your motor.

Be warned, with #1, 2, and 3 above, it will be a WHOLE different bike (in a good way), and we aren't responsible for the ensuing shenanigans you might be inclined to do with it.....

-SM
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Old 09-20-2012, 03:25 PM   #30672
woofer2609
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Hey thanks thanks for the input so far! Twilight Zone, post # 30521 has a pretty good explanation of the Lean Angle thing CO mod.
Sock Monkey, great to hear your experience!
Soooooo, many options, trying out where to start, probably an exhaust, rack and wheels for now.
Thanks for all the input!
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Old 09-20-2012, 03:30 PM   #30673
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It was never meant to be making any sense, learning to write in korean these days
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Old 09-20-2012, 06:40 PM   #30674
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sock Monkey View Post


If you 1) replace the pipe and 2) open the top of the airbox, you should 3) purchase some sort of fuel controller to make sure you don't end up running too lean and fry your motor.

-SM
In the old carburetor days, those kind of changes without richer jetting could fry your engine. But I thought fuel injection would automatically compensate, at least to a point, just as it does for altitude. Has anyone established that a WRR can be made to run too lean just by opening it up?

(And I'm only talking about not hurting the engine. I realize modifying the injection pattern has all kinds of benefits in ridability.)
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Old 09-20-2012, 06:55 PM   #30675
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Quote:
Originally Posted by montesa_vr View Post
In the old carburetor days, those kind of changes without richer jetting could fry your engine. But I thought fuel injection would automatically compensate, at least to a point, just as it does for altitude. Has anyone established that a WRR can be made to run too lean just by opening it up?

(And I'm only talking about not hurting the engine. I realize modifying the injection pattern has all kinds of benefits in ridability.)
Yes, I've immediate access to a dyno. Running FMF Megabomb, FMF Powercore, Open airbox, without tuner, was running at 15.2 A/F ratio. 14.7 is stoichiometric (most efficient, emissions wise). Quite lean. With FMF programmer, and untouched settings, it dropped to 14.7. Still high. Richened it up with it sitting at 13.6, good enough for me. Best rideability I found.
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