Yamaha WR250R Mega Thread

[Kjharn]

Originally Posted by montesa_vr

In the old carburetor days, those kind of changes without richer jetting could fry your engine. But I thought fuel injection would automatically compensate, at least to a point, just as it does for altitude. Has anyone established that a WRR can be made to run too lean just by opening it up?

(And I'm only talking about not hurting the engine. I realize modifying the injection pattern has all kinds of benefits in ridability.)

Yes, I've immediate access to a dyno. Running FMF Megabomb, FMF Powercore, Open airbox, without tuner, was running at 15.2 A/F ratio. 14.7 is stoichiometric (most efficient, emissions wise). Quite lean. With FMF programmer, and untouched settings, it dropped to 14.7. Still high. Richened it up with it sitting at 13.6, good enough for me. Best rideability I found.

[Attico]

Do you have your fmf settings? I have the same setup, but no dyno.

Originally Posted by Kjharn

Yes, I've immediate access to a dyno. Running FMF Megabomb, FMF Powercore, Open airbox, without tuner, was running at 15.2 A/F ratio. 14.7 is stoichiometric (most efficient, emissions wise). Quite lean. With FMF programmer, and untouched settings, it dropped to 14.7. Still high. Richened it up with it sitting at 13.6, good enough for me. Best rideability I found.

[Kjharn]

Originally Posted by Attico

Do you have your fmf settings? I have the same setup, but no dyno.

I keep getting asked and keep forgetting to pull my numbers; I'll try my best to look tomorrow.

[KansasBob]

Originally Posted by montesa_vr

In the old carburetor days, those kind of changes without richer jetting could fry your engine. But I thought fuel injection would automatically compensate, at least to a point, just as it does for altitude. Has anyone established that a WRR can be made to run too lean just by opening it up?

(And I'm only talking about not hurting the engine. I realize modifying the injection pattern has all kinds of benefits in ridability.)

Some FI systems use a "closed loop" system with an O2 sensor that actually looks at the exhaust, but the WR does not. It changes the map to compensate for changes in altitude, and air temp with sensors for those values...... but it assumes constant intake and exhaust restriction as a base line for the map. I think? Changing either the intake or exhaust restriction will lean the mixture and the computer will have no way of knowing without an 02 sensor in the loop.

[Jolly705]

Is there a list of what WRF parts fit on the WRR?

Thanks

[qwiky]

im pretty sure there are barely any interchangable parts, they are totally different bikes, if they were atall similar i would be posting pics of my wrf on this thread

[thumpididump]

Originally Posted by Jolly705

Is there a list of what WRF parts fit on the WRR?

Thanks

I think the hand grips are inter-changeable.

Sent using Tapatalk on my Samsung Galaxy S3

[Krabill]

Sprockets and footpegs . . . and the rear disk guard off of a WRF will fit on a WRR . . . hmm . . . I think that's about it.

[mhm2a]

Oil Filters are the same...

[Shawnee Bill]

I'm letting my WRR go, so in the next few days I will be taking my farkles off it and listing them in the flea market.

IMS 3 gallon tank, wolfman side racks with side plate for rotopax mounting, Sandman case saver in red, Sargent seat.
PM me.


.

[GlennR]

Originally Posted by Shawnee Bill

I'm letting my WRR go, so in the next few days I will be taking my farkles off it and listing them in the flea market.

IMS 3 gallon tank, wolfman side racks with side plate for rotopax mounting, Sandman case saver in red, Sargent seat.
PM me.


.

Bill,

That's smart to do. I see folks trying to get big money for bikes because of all the extra that they have "invested" in farkles. They just don't rrealize that most buyers will not pay extra for the farkles, and some buyers consider a non stock bike worth less than a stock one.

A stock bike "looks newer" or "less used" in many buyers minds.

[Mr. Fisherman]

Originally Posted by Mr. Fisherman

You can check to make sure the fan spins freely...

Also you can use the diagnostic mode to check that the temperature sensors, the relay and switches are all working correctly.

From the manual...

DIAGNOSTIC MODE
Setting the diagnostic mode
1. Turn the main switch to "OFF" and set the en*
gine stop switch to "ON".
2. Disconnect the wire harness coupler from the
fuel pump.
3. Simultaneously press and hold the
"SELECT1" "T'and "RESET" "2" buttons, turn
the main switch to "ON", and continue to
press the buttons for 8 seconds or more.
[IMG]file:///C:%5CDOCUME%7E1%5CMRFISH%7E1%5CLOCALS%7E1%5CTemp%5 Cmsohtml1%5C01%5Cclip_image002.jpg[/IMG]
NOTE:___________________________________
• All displays on the meter disappear except the
clock and tripmeter displays.
• "dlAG" appears on the clock LCD.

4. Press the "SELECT1" button to select the CO
adjustment mode "CO" or the diagnostic
mode "dlAG".
5. After selecting "dlAG", simultaneously press
the "SELECT" and "RESET" buttons for 2
seconds or more to execute the selection.
6. Set the engine stop switch to "OFF".
7. Select the diagnostic code number that ap*
plies to the item that was verified with the fault
code number by pressing the "SELECT1"
and "RESET" buttons.
NOTE:____________________________________
The diagnostic code number appears on the clock LCD (01-70).
• To decrease the selected diagnostic code
number, press the "RESET" button. Press the
"RESET" button for 1 second or longer to auto*
matically decrease the diagnostic code num*
bers.
• To increase the selected diagnostic code num*
ber, press the "SELECT" button. Press the
"SELECT" button for 1 second or longer to au*
tomatically increase the diagnostic code number
8. Verify the operation of the sensor or actuator.
• Sensor operation
The data representing the operating condi*tions of the sensor appears on the trip LCD.
• Actuator operation
Set the engine stop switch to "ON" to operate
the actuator.
NOTE:____________________________________
If the engine stop switch is set to "ON", set it to "OFF", and then set it to "ON" again.
9. Turn the main switch to "OFF" to cancel the
diagnostic mode.


You are looking for these three parameters...






51

Radiator fan motor relay

Actuates the radiator fan motor relay for five times every sec*ond. (ON two seconds, OFF three seconds) Illuminates the engine trouble warning light.

Check the operating sound of the relay five times.

The intake and coolant temperature should be pretty close if the bike has not run and is cool to the touch. After it has been run the intake should be about ambient temperature and the coolant temperature should match coolant temp. This will tell you if all your sensors are working (not shorted) and the fan motor relay will check all the switches, relay and fan motor. You can remove the fan and check for looseness at the fan hub.

In my case I had buried my bike in a snow and rubble field and enough crap scooped through my tank to clog the fan... it continued to want to be on because it was hot and eventually the motor shaft spun off the fan and ate the hub until the fan lodged against the radiator and the fan motor seized. I didn't notice this at the time. It was three days later after seeing the red high temp warning light for the first time. I thought nothing of it because I was loaded for a 2 month trip towing a trailer and climbing several passes in the summer heat. The light would go out as I eased up or started descending. I found the toasted fan motor and destroyed fan blade when I changed my fuel pump after it died on me crossing the Arco Desert in 106 degree heat.







This was an expensive lesson for me... it cost about $180 for the replacement plus shipping.

I will be checking to make sure the fan is clear after picking the bike up from now on. This is a common failure on snowmobiles that get packed with snow. Some street bikes had fans with bad hubs that loosened when they started and stopped that eventually wallowed out. Lesson learned on my part. I hope this helps.

When you get to Portland Oregon look me up and I can help with this if you need it.
We also have a weekly get together on Thursdays and would enjoy hearing stories about your trip.

Here is it Crawdaddy, I hope it helps.


oh, and this doesn't look like much fun....

[Jolly705]

Thanks, any specific years for the pegs?

Originally Posted by Krabill

Sprockets and footpegs . . . and the rear disk guard off of a WRF will fit on a WRR . . . hmm . . . I think that's about it.

[Jolly705]

Here is a pic and the mods

Go Race Suspension front and rear
Renthal Bars
Flatland radiator Guard
Flatland Skid Plate
EE aluminum hand guards
FMF pipe with Power Commander V

[fred flintstone]

Originally Posted by GlennR

Bill,

That's smart to do. I see folks trying to get big money for bikes because of all the extra that they have "invested" in farkles. They just don't rrealize that most buyers will not pay extra for the farkles, and some buyers consider a non stock bike worth less than a stock one.

A stock bike "looks newer" or "less used" in many buyers minds.

The other thing that drives me crazy is people who add the full new price of the farkles to the FMV of the stock bike, but then don't have the stock parts. So I always want to say, OK now deduct extra wear and tear on stock bike price, wear and tear on farkles, and cost for near new stock parts that would be there in a box if they hadn't already been sold/lost/destroyed. Oh yeah then the adjustment factor for maybe a screwed up install and broke something.