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Old 09-24-2012, 09:24 PM   #30736
qwiky
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Location: Thunderbay Ontario
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jon_l View Post
Those are nice looking bags. Price is reasonable too. I tried to buy one, but I live in Canada so am prohibited by eBay from buying military surplus. Weird.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/US-Army-Mili...item3370695eb4
http://www.cpgear.com/store/pack/nuke_bag.htm
us canadians get excluded from all the fun. this seems like a similarly sized bag, if you type "cadpat" into google there is a bunch of surplus stores for canada, plus our military makes better gear
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Old 09-24-2012, 09:47 PM   #30737
dvwalker
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Just wanted to say also how much I really like the wr250r. It was the perfect bike choice for a recently completed 11d 2300mi off-road adventure thru Utah, Idaho and OR. I also have a 2012 ktm in the garage that's setup for long distance, but the WR was much more comfortable, no fuss and bullet proof reliable for this type of ride. The route was very rocky so bike took a lot of abuse, needless to say it ran flawlessly entire trip. Route elevation ranged from 230ft to over 10K and FI ECU calibrated perfectly.

At this point my WR has over 12K hard miles and hasn't had a single problem (knock on head), other than having to install EXUP eliminator to remove a bogus CEL.

Note, I removed the Renazco seat that's for sale prior to this long trip.


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Old 09-25-2012, 04:00 AM   #30738
jon_l
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Location: Collingwood, Ontario
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Quote:
Originally Posted by qwiky View Post
http://www.cpgear.com/store/pack/nuke_bag.htm
us canadians get excluded from all the fun. this seems like a similarly sized bag, if you type "cadpat" into google there is a bunch of surplus stores for canada, plus our military makes better gear
Thanks Qwiky. I can find some stuff here, but it is never real cheap, like the US gets.

Last night, I had a US friend order me one of those in the earlier post, and I'll grab it from him next time I'm down there.

I'll play around with cadpat and see what turns up.
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Old 09-25-2012, 06:03 AM   #30739
theMISSIONARY
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Location: Devonport Tazmania
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what is it with after market parts

Just finished putting a nomadic cycle rack on and the bolts are to short by at least 10mm.....there goes another $9 in bolts and time stuffing about

then i moved onto the Flapper,AIS and IMS 4.7 install

AIS went well with the little kit from Krabill

then the IMS now this went well until i went to put the tank on and the vacuum hose none of the instructions(looked it up on the Forum) tell you that if your removing the flapper just use that hose instead of cutting it and putting the "T" in no problem i just put the little black block-out on the "T" i put the "breather hose into the steering head as i don't have the "canister"(cali model thing?) on my bike

then after i put the tank in place none of the bolt holes line up and it touches the radiator guard and the cover on the other side(i just cut it to fit)
things wont be any better with Fuel and the tank wobbles on the mounts, so its going to "rock" from side to side a little eventually making a hole in one or the other

bike is still in bits wondering if its just me that has these issues

are there any Radiator guards that will fit WITHOUT touching
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Old 09-25-2012, 06:30 AM   #30740
jon_l
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kjharn View Post
I'd peen that sucker with a center punch a little more. I've had mine fall off before, and it was peened well. Loc-tited this one and peened the shit out of it.
Quote:
Originally Posted by thumpididump View Post
I swapped out a 14T for a 13T this evening and was quite surprised to find the big nut was barely finger tight. I remember tightening that sucker really well, and peening the hell out if it as well. That was about 2 months ago. I'll be keeping a closer eye on it from now on.
Good reason to remove the OEM plastic cover, so you can see the sprocket.
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Old 09-25-2012, 06:55 AM   #30741
simmons1
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Quote:
Originally Posted by theMISSIONARY View Post
what is it with after market parts



then after i put the tank in place none of the bolt holes line up and it touches the radiator guard and the cover on the other side(i just cut it to fit)
things wont be any better with Fuel and the tank wobbles on the mounts, so its going to "rock" from side to side a little eventually making a hole in one or the other

bike is still in bits wondering if its just me that has these issues

are there any Radiator guards that will fit WITHOUT touching
My IMS tank hit the radiator guard as well so I removed the guard and I am just using the OEM plastic one. I figure the tank itself gives a fair amount of protection.
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Old 09-25-2012, 07:37 AM   #30742
Crawdaddy
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Joined: Jun 2007
Location: Ramona, CA.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Crawdaddy View Post
Blew out my fan a while back.....needless to say, shortly thereafter the bike's overtemp light would come on occasionally if not moving at a good clip.........Switched over to my 300 while I waited for a new fan to arrive........replaced the fan (and verified working condition) but the light is now coming on/staying on even when traveling at a good clip with the fan on?

Oil is fresh, oil/air filters are clean

FMF fuel programer is set up to adjust for 290 Athena kit (no over temp issues in first ~500 miles with new top end when original fan was still working fine)

Coolant level fine/No boil over

Havevn't run with cap off yet to see if water is circulating......could be bad water pump?

Haven't checked the plug yet to see if it's running hot/lean?

Spent thermostat?
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr. Fisherman View Post
Woa there Nelley....

Try the simple things... no need to start throwing money at it. if one of the temp sensors was bad it should have thrown a code... if one is ailing or fouled the diagnostic mode should help find it.

Also, clean your air filter... again...
Quote:
Originally Posted by bash3r View Post
Chris.. what was the cause of your issues a while back.. I dont' know if I read up on what the outcome was?!? I mean.. I know you can't be without your WR for two long since you ride all dang year long
Radiator WAS a tad low (barely any liquid on fins). Flushed old coolant/refilled with fresh coolant/burped it...... and that seemed to do the trick. No more "red light district". When my KTMs blow coolant they steam like crazy....never saw any overheating indication on the WR or fluid on bike/ground....I like these sorts of easy fixes.....especially since my ~400 mile Primm/Bar 10 ride is a short week away.......lot's of wide open riding.....that ride is meant for the WR250R as opposed too my 300XCW singletrack weapon.....

http://crawdadoffroadevents.com/core-calendar/view/21

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Old 09-25-2012, 07:41 AM   #30743
GSBS
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jon_l View Post
Good reason to remove the OEM plastic cover, so you can see the sprocket.
I've decided to keep the plastic OEM countershaft sprocket cover, even though I much prefer the look of the open aftermarket ones.

Recently when I removed my cover to inspect the sprocket the nut was only finger tight. Turns out the C-shaped keeper that's made into the OEM cover was the only thing that prevented my CS nut from spinning all the way off!

This time I took extra care to be sure to use the recommended Locktite, correct torque value and to carefully stake the sleeve on the CS nut into the detents on the shaft.

If the WR had the conventional keeper washer that many other bikes use - the kind you bend (dog-ear) over onto one or more of the sides of the CS nut, I'd for sure go with an aftermarket case saver.

But the poorly engineered (IMO) system of "staking" the collar on the nut makes the keeper that's made into the OEM cover mandatory for me.

My 2
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Old 09-25-2012, 07:44 AM   #30744
thumpididump
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Actually, I do have the Sandman case saver, so it's quite easy to see what's going on. It wasn't until I put the big 27mm (I think) socket on there that I discovered it wasn't tight.


Quote:
Originally Posted by jon_l View Post
Good reason to remove the OEM plastic cover, so you can see the sprocket.
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Old 09-25-2012, 08:07 AM   #30745
Rapid Dog
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Question Athena Kit Qustions

I'm getting an Athena kit in today.
Pulled the bike down last night.
Lots of stuff in the way of the head/cylinder, wire loom, tubes, cables.
Those aren't a problem.

Do you remove the airbox, and if not, how do you get the throttle body out?
Just disconnect the rubbers and pull it up through the frame?
Doesn't seem to be much room in there...
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Old 09-25-2012, 08:10 AM   #30746
freetors
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When I changed my front sprocket I did reuse the nut but I put a red paint line across the countershaft and the nut so I can visually see if it has loosened.
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Old 09-25-2012, 08:20 AM   #30747
RichardU
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rapid Dog View Post
how do you get the throttle body out?
I left the throttle body on the bike and dropped the engine.
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Old 09-25-2012, 08:30 AM   #30748
Rapid Dog
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...sooo...I guess it's not as simple as the WR250F on Youtube...you have to actually pull the motor?
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Old 09-25-2012, 08:32 AM   #30749
RichardU
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rapid Dog View Post
...sooo...I guess it's not as simple as the WR250F on Youtube...you have to actually pull the motor?
Completely different engine. I think the simple option is to pull the engine.
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Old 09-25-2012, 09:28 AM   #30750
bash3r
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Crawdaddy View Post
.I like these sorts of easy fixes.....especially since my ~400 mile Primm/Bar 10 ride is a short week away.......lot's of wide open riding.....that ride is meant for the WR250R as opposed too my 300XCW singletrack weapon.....
Awesome Chris... glad to hear your WR will make the trip!
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