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Old 09-25-2012, 10:23 AM   #30751
Krabill
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Quote:
Originally Posted by theMISSIONARY View Post
what is it with after market parts

Just finished putting a nomadic cycle rack on and the bolts are to short by at least 10mm.....there goes another $9 in bolts and time stuffing about

then i moved onto the Flapper,AIS and IMS 4.7 install

AIS went well with the little kit from Krabill

then the IMS now this went well until i went to put the tank on and the vacuum hose none of the instructions(looked it up on the Forum) tell you that if your removing the flapper just use that hose instead of cutting it and putting the "T" in no problem i just put the little black block-out on the "T" i put the "breather hose into the steering head as i don't have the "canister"(cali model thing?) on my bike

then after i put the tank in place none of the bolt holes line up and it touches the radiator guard and the cover on the other side(i just cut it to fit)
things wont be any better with Fuel and the tank wobbles on the mounts, so its going to "rock" from side to side a little eventually making a hole in one or the other

bike is still in bits wondering if its just me that has these issues

are there any Radiator guards that will fit WITHOUT touching
I cut some spacers to go under my tank mounts out of 1/4" aluminum. Raised it up enough to clear everything.
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Old 09-25-2012, 10:26 AM   #30752
jon_l
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Originally Posted by freetors View Post
When I changed my front sprocket I did reuse the nut but I put a red paint line across the countershaft and the nut so I can visually see if it has loosened.
Good idea. I'll punch mine, and do the same.
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Old 09-25-2012, 12:16 PM   #30753
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I read a post from you about this before GSBS, and yours is a valid point.

I like being able to see the sprocket and front of the swingarm & seal-guard, and I like that the Sandman part doesn't trap dirt.

I will re-punch the flange and monitor my C/S sprocket for tightness, but the swingarm / seal guard issue causes me more stress than this nut, which is simple enough for me to understand, and to monitor. The chain eating swing-arm issue seems to be caused by:
- chain too loose
- chain too tight
- kinked chain
- too small front sprocket

I'm not sure anyone really knows.

Jon

Quote:
Originally Posted by GSBS View Post
I've decided to keep the plastic OEM countershaft sprocket cover, even though I much prefer the look of the open aftermarket ones.

Recently when I removed my cover to inspect the sprocket the nut was only finger tight. Turns out the C-shaped keeper that's made into the OEM cover was the only thing that prevented my CS nut from spinning all the way off!

This time I took extra care to be sure to use the recommended Locktite, correct torque value and to carefully stake the sleeve on the CS nut into the detents on the shaft.

If the WR had the conventional keeper washer that many other bikes use - the kind you bend (dog-ear) over onto one or more of the sides of the CS nut, I'd for sure go with an aftermarket case saver.

But the poorly engineered (IMO) system of "staking" the collar on the nut makes the keeper that's made into the OEM cover mandatory for me.

My 2
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Old 09-25-2012, 12:25 PM   #30754
GSBS
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jon_l View Post
I read a post from you about this before GSBS, and yours is a valid point.

I like being able to see the sprocket and front of the swingarm & seal-guard, and I like that the Sandman part doesn't trap dirt.

I will re-punch the flange and monitor my C/S sprocket for tightness, but the swingarm / seal guard issue causes me more stress than this nut, which is simple enough for me to understand, and to monitor. The chain eating swing-arm issue seems to be caused by:
- chain too loose
- chain too tight
- kinked chain
- too small front sprocket

I'm not sure anyone really knows.

Jon
Jon,

My swingarm guard was chewed up in a few thousand miles after I geared down using a 12T CS and the stock 43T rear. I'm now running a 13/47 and have had very little wear on the replacement swingarm guard.

And FWIW, I'm in mud on my WR fairly often and haven't had any issues with dirt, mud, debris building up in the plastic OEM CS cover.
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Old 09-25-2012, 01:29 PM   #30755
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Originally Posted by RichardU View Post
... I think the simple option is to pull the engine.
...best way is to un-bolt the front downtubes than?

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Old 09-25-2012, 01:54 PM   #30756
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Quote:
Originally Posted by theMISSIONARY View Post
what is it with after market parts


then the IMS now this went well until i went to put the tank on and the vacuum hose none of the instructions(looked it up on the Forum) tell you that if your removing the flapper just use that hose instead of cutting it and putting the "T" in no problem i just put the little black block-out on the "T" i put the "breather hose into the steering head as i don't have the "canister"(cali model thing?) on my bike

I recall seeing posts where using the non-recommended vacuum hose caused problems with the aux vacuum pump operation. If I understand correctly, the recommened hose has a pulsed vaccum, the other hose has constant vacuum. The pulsed vacuum line allows the vacuum pump to operate correctly.

I guess you will know when the fuel level gets below the well in the stock pump.
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Old 09-25-2012, 01:54 PM   #30757
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rapid Dog View Post
I'm getting an Athena kit in today.
Pulled the bike down last night.
Lots of stuff in the way of the head/cylinder, wire loom, tubes, cables.
Those aren't a problem.

Do you remove the airbox, and if not, how do you get the throttle body out?
Just disconnect the rubbers and pull it up through the frame?
Doesn't seem to be much room in there...
This one way to do it and I am sure it would be worth the read.

http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=621532
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Old 09-25-2012, 02:25 PM   #30758
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Originally Posted by Moto da Vinci View Post
This one way to do it and I am sure it would be worth the read.

http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=621532
...gonna do that as soon as I get home from my day job, which is cruising ADV while the pics are blocked...
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Old 09-25-2012, 02:31 PM   #30759
theMISSIONARY
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Krabill View Post
I cut some spacers to go under my tank mounts out of 1/4" aluminum. Raised it up enough to clear everything.
i'll give that ago after work today it was late by the time i finished putting the tank on but i was thinking at the time it might be the best option
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Old 09-25-2012, 02:33 PM   #30760
theMISSIONARY
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BarKnee View Post
I recall seeing posts where using the non-recommended vacuum hose caused problems with the aux vacuum pump operation. If I understand correctly, the recommened hose has a pulsed vaccum, the other hose has constant vacuum. The pulsed vacuum line allows the vacuum pump to operate correctly.

I guess you will know when the fuel level gets below the well in the stock pump.
Yeah i read that on the WR250r forum also but there was no definitive answer so i'll wait and see
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Old 09-25-2012, 02:53 PM   #30761
mwgak
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I have run the big IMS on several bikes and never had trouble with the pump. I tap into the same port that you cap when you remove the intake flapper. Make sure you dont kink the line (I tie wrap a nice loop) when you reverse direction up near the tank.
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Old 09-25-2012, 03:01 PM   #30762
theMISSIONARY
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Quote:
Originally Posted by simmons1 View Post
My IMS tank hit the radiator guard as well so I removed the guard and I am just using the OEM plastic one. I figure the tank itself gives a fair amount of protection.
on mine the plastic one is the one that touches.... i am going to see what i can do with some rubber latter
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Old 09-25-2012, 07:54 PM   #30763
Jolly705
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Has anyone mounted a WR250X set of SM wheels to a WR250R? If so what mods need to be done? Thanks again.
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Old 09-25-2012, 11:33 PM   #30764
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Old 09-25-2012, 11:35 PM   #30765
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Rear: remove the stock wheel, bolt on the X wheel.

Front: remove the stock wheel and brake caliper. Bolt on the new X wheel and either swap in an X caliper, or replace the whole line and master cylinder with X parts as an assembly like I did.
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