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Old 12-26-2012, 08:58 PM   #32056
whisperquiet
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sieg View Post
I have a feeling it wasn't Yamaha's fault.
I'll bet the chain was mis-adjusted.

Hey Sieg..........did you get out the snowmobile today?
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Old 12-26-2012, 09:23 PM   #32057
Bgunn
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KustomizingKid View Post
The only thing I am worried about is durability... I do no less than 15k miles a year. I just don't want to have to rebuild it more than every 3 seasons so ~45k miles.
Some of the elders like Big Dog, Ten cup etc. have racked up high miles without any major problems.

At 17K I changed my fuel pump for preventative. But has been a trouble free machine.
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Old 12-26-2012, 09:55 PM   #32058
skierd
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Mine has 45k on it since i bought it new in January 2010. Never seen the inside of the motor except to check the valves at 25k, would be well over 50k if it weren't for winter.
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Old 12-26-2012, 10:48 PM   #32059
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[QUOTE=NJXR75;20330621]
Quote:
Originally Posted by shep546 View Post
Hey guys,

First post here I'm going to do a bit of a introduction.

I'm 23, and last spring I decided I wanted to buy a motorcycle, took my course and went out and bought a brand new (possibly bad idea) 2012 wr250r.

I've also been looking around for an exhaust upgrade and was wondering if anybody knows how the two brother's exhausts are?

Are there any mods I need to do to my bike?

------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

The number one performance mod for any bike, IMHO, is a properly tuned suspension.

Welcome & enjoy the ride!
Competent riding offroad is 90% skill, 10% equipment (within reason). A skilled rider can do wondrous feats on a stock WRR, while all the performance in the world will only fluster and crash a newbie faster.

Before you spend $1,000 on suspension, buy some books and DVDs on trail riding. They'll teach you things to practice (keeping your feet on the pegs and standing through tough sections, etc.). Mods in order of cost effectiveness (IMO):

1. Airbox removal/modding for max airflow (free), AIS removal
2. New tires (D606s)
3. Geared-down sprockets
4. FMF exhaust/header/programmer
5. Suspension rebuild for your size, weight and style

Get some practice on your stock WR before you upgrade the living daylights out of it! Good luck.
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Old 12-27-2012, 07:00 AM   #32060
pfy50
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KustomizingKid View Post
So after much research and debate I think I am going to trade in on all my current bikes and pick up the newest WR250 I can afford, might even go brand new. The only thing I am worried about is durability... I do no less than 15k miles a year. I just don't want to have to rebuild it more than every 3 seasons so ~45k miles.
Hello KustomizingKid,
Not to sound to preachy, but no one is guaranteed tomorrow. Just to keep things in perspective. So don't worry about the future of a motorcycle; there are to many variables that go into the longevity of any one individual bike. The WRR is a good all-round light weight trailie/commuter bike. Just be good on all maintenance(WRR has one of the highest service intervals in the industry) and don't try to make it something it wasn't designed for. From the mileage your talking about it sounds like you are looking for a commuter or a long distance ADVer bike. Both are possible(I'm testing mine in the latter).
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Old 12-27-2012, 07:20 AM   #32061
Rapid Dog
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Thumb

[QUOTE=TexaNate;20335692]
Quote:
Originally Posted by NJXR75 View Post
Mods in order of cost effectiveness (IMO):

1. Airbox removal/modding for max airflow (free), AIS removal
2. New tires (D606s)
3. Geared-down sprockets
4. FMF exhaust/header/programmer
5. Suspension rebuild for your size, weight and style
All good advice. +1 with everything Nate says....except, I'd do Pirelli MT21'a instead of 606's...just IMO ofcourse...
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Old 12-27-2012, 08:04 AM   #32062
ArmyJoe
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[QUOTE=TexaNate;20335692]
Quote:
Originally Posted by NJXR75 View Post
Mods in order of cost effectiveness (IMO):

1. Airbox removal/modding for max airflow (free), AIS removal
2. New tires (D606s)
3. Geared-down sprockets
4. FMF exhaust/header/programmer
5. Suspension rebuild for your size, weight and style
Can you do the airbox and AIS removal without also doing the exhaust and programmer? My impression from reading here was that it was an all or nothing thing.

I mod'ed my Spyder with a high-flow air filter, Hindle racing muffler, and JuiceBox programmer, so I know the benefits. I wasn't planning to do the same to the WRR just yet, but might start sooner if I can do it in stages (e, airbox/AIS now, pipe/programmer later).
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Old 12-27-2012, 08:11 AM   #32063
burtonrider3889
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[QUOTE=ArmyJoe;20336993]
Quote:
Originally Posted by TexaNate View Post

Can you do the airbox and AIS removal without also doing the exhaust and programmer? My impression from reading here was that it was an all or nothing thing.

I mod'ed my Spyder with a high-flow air filter, Hindle racing muffler, and JuiceBox programmer, so I know the benefits. I wasn't planning to do the same to the WRR just yet, but might start sooner if I can do it in stages (e, airbox/AIS now, pipe/programmer later).
I'd like to know the same thing.
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Old 12-27-2012, 08:28 AM   #32064
Sewerat
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Yes you can. It's when air in and air out are both improved that fuel needs to be remapped.

Think of any motor like blowing up a balloon. One of those long twisty balloons are hard as heck to blow up, like a stock motor air/pipe combo. those punching bag type super easy but need tons of air, like open air/pipe combo you need more gas to fill one of those but more pressure to fill the little tight one.
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Old 12-27-2012, 09:09 AM   #32065
MeefZah
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I have only my AIS and flapper done.

Not really noticing any difference, although there is a (little) less weight and less shit to potentially break now, I guess.
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Old 12-27-2012, 09:46 AM   #32066
zimzooma
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Quote:
Originally Posted by burtonrider3889 View Post
I guess some things aren't too good to be true. Just picked her up! I'm so excited.
Congrats.
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Old 12-27-2012, 09:57 AM   #32067
zimzooma
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[QUOTE=ArmyJoe;20336993]
Quote:
Originally Posted by TexaNate View Post

Can you do the airbox and AIS removal without also doing the exhaust and programmer? My impression from reading here was that it was an all or nothing thing.

I mod'ed my Spyder with a high-flow air filter, Hindle racing muffler, and JuiceBox programmer, so I know the benefits. I wasn't planning to do the same to the WRR just yet, but might start sooner if I can do it in stages (e, airbox/AIS now, pipe/programmer later).
I did all mine at once. Big improvement over stock. Loud as heck though.
Honestly I think the best investment in the WRR/X arena is suspension. I was never disappointed in the performance of the stock WR. I was immediately disappointed in the suspension the first time I rode it hard, off-road. Guess its fine for some people.
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Old 12-27-2012, 10:06 AM   #32068
ba_
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suspension settings

I just went and set my suspension based on the HF settings that been floating around here and did everything but the spring preload.

Does anyone know what the measurement typically is from the factory? Or is it all over the place?

Is there a trick to measuring the preload without taking the shock off? Can it be adjusted without the shock off?

Thanks
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Old 12-27-2012, 10:38 AM   #32069
KansasBob
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ba_ View Post
I just went and set my suspension based on the HF settings that been floating around here and did everything but the spring preload.

Does anyone know what the measurement typically is from the factory? Or is it all over the place?

Is there a trick to measuring the preload without taking the shock off? Can it be adjusted without the shock off?

Thanks
The factory setting is probably right in the middle of the range. If I remember HF said to set it as soft as it would go, leaving only a couple threads above the lock nut. Normally you set the preload by setting your SAG. Tons of sag adjusting videos come up on a google search. HF's soft setting is just what he found worked best for his weight and riding style.......... that said, I run mine soft like HF rather than setting the sag. I weigh 180 with no gear.

You can loosen the top lock nut and move the adjustment nut with a long flat tip punch, and a hammer without taking the shock off the bike. They make the proper wrench to do the same thing .............. on the bike too I think........... I used a punch.
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Old 12-27-2012, 10:45 AM   #32070
ba_
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KansasBob View Post
The factory setting is probably right in the middle of the range. If I remember HF said to set it as soft as it would go, leaving only a couple threads above the lock nut. Normally you set the preload by setting your SAG. Tons of sag adjusting videos come up on a google search. HF's soft setting is just what he found worked best for his weight and riding style.......... that said, I run mine soft like HF rather than setting the sag. I weigh 180 with no gear.

You can loosen the top lock nut and move the adjustment nut with a long flat tip punch, and a hammer without taking the shock off the bike. They make the proper wrench to do the same thing .............. on the bike too I think........... I used a punch.
Thanks.

I'm 150 without gear so perhaps I should just leave it for now and see how it rides with the other settings changed.
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