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Old 01-04-2013, 08:42 PM   #32266
Rapid Dog
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Originally Posted by jon_l View Post
Looky what the WRR got today:



Seat Concepts, carbon pattern material, for WR250R
Your butt's gonna like you...SC seats are the Best Bang 4 The Buck...ever!
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Old 01-04-2013, 08:57 PM   #32267
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Originally Posted by jimmy2020 View Post
I was thinking a 130 rear and a 120 front?
If your talkin' dirt tires 18/21 you don't need anything 120, let alone 130.
A 120 in maybe some dirt tires, but a 110 will get you better results.
Ask me how I know................but maybe you're talking 17" wheels....
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Old 01-05-2013, 12:10 AM   #32268
Joe Watson
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The latest ride with my WR250R. Out with a bunch of mates on the day of New Years Eve.

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Old 01-05-2013, 07:32 AM   #32269
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Originally Posted by ba_ View Post
I am thinking of lowering the rear shock with the stock adjustments as outlined on wrrdualsport.com.

Can someone explain how to determine if anything should be done with the height of the forks? Is there a good article somewhere that explains the relationship between fork height and ride characteristics?

Thanks in advance
I recall reading something somewhere (either on thumpertalk or advrider, possibly in this thread) by the Yamalink guy. Sorry, wish I could remember exactly where. Some judicious Google work should find lots of info. I lowered my front 15mm, which is less than the rear is lowered, but that was just personal preference.
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Old 01-05-2013, 07:34 AM   #32270
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Originally Posted by sturgeon View Post
I recall reading something somewhere (either on thumpertalk or advrider, possibly in this thread) by the Yamalink guy. Sorry, wish I could remember exactly where. Some judicious Google work should find lots of info. I lowered my front 15mm, which is less than the rear is lowered, but that was just personal preference.
Yeah there is definitely a lot of information out there. I was seeing if someone had a link to the definitive source.

What did lowering by 15mm do for you?
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Old 01-05-2013, 08:18 AM   #32271
ramz
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Yamaha designed the front and rear suspension to be in balance. The forks stroke in a 1:1 ratio: 1 inch of fork compression is 1 inch lower triple clamps. The rear shock is different: 1 inch of stroke is equal to 2-4 inches of rear seat lower. The 2-4 inch difference is due to the shock linkage being non-linear.

When you change the rear suspension by modifying the shock clevis mount and/or the shock linkage arm length, you lower the rear of the bike more than the Yamaha designed amount and this will result in the fork having more trail and a more relaxed angle, often referred to as a chopper look and performance. (Chopper as in Harley Davidson choppers.) This will result in very stable and slow steering. To get the front back to a more vertical angle and faster steering, you must lower the triple clamps or shorten the forks. There has always been speculation about how much to lower the front end. Should it be identical to the amount of rear lowering, or more, or less.

Here is what I show on my WRR mods page:
"I lowered the triple clamps on the forks about 18mm as suggested by YamaLink and others. Although this amount is less than the rear, it seems it is appropriate considering the differences between how forks and shocks+linkage work."
http://rickramsey.net/WR250Rmods.htm#lower

The folks that sell the YamaLink have posted somewhere in this massive thread that the front and rear don't have to be lowered the same amount. I have verified that statement but I also attempt to lower the triple clamps as much as possible. Here is the maximum I have been able to achieve, about 25mm with the Easton EXP bars I installed later:


I could get more with taller risers or shortening fork travel with internal spacers, but I find that the steering is acceptably quick with what I have here. You may want more or less.

This is my distilled knowledge of how it all works; there are other opinions out there; let Google be your friend. In particular, there are nay-sayers who contend that changing the suspension to lower the seat is unacceptable to them. They say the suspension performance is negatively affected, that you will catch your foot pegs on ruts, and that any lowering is dangerous. The bike will bottom out by hiting the lower frame rails on the ground or the fender will hit the tire are also mentioned.

No matter what anyone says, once you get the seat lowered to your preference and the suspension performing how you like, be happy with your bike. It will be set up the way you want it.

If you can't ride the bike in stock trim then your (and mine) only choice is to lower the seat.

/Flak Jak on.
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Old 01-05-2013, 08:22 AM   #32272
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Originally Posted by ramz View Post
If you can't ride the bike in stock trim then your (and mine) only choice is to lower the seat.
Thanks for the explanation ramz.

Lowering with the stock adjustment is such an easy modification that it certainly will not hurt to try it. Same with lowering the forks in the triples.

If it doesn't feel right I can always change it back.
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Old 01-05-2013, 08:25 AM   #32273
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Originally Posted by ba_ View Post
Yeah there is definitely a lot of information out there. I was seeing if someone had a link to the definitive source.

What did lowering by 15mm do for you?
ba_,
I don't know if this will help any, but I don't think there is any definitive source. Each suspension guru has his own accumulated ideas as to how to set SAG and suspension. From what I've read though the MAX drop at the rear using the OEM linkage and Yamalink combined is 2.0"(50.8mm)before you start to run into handling problems and the MAX raise on the front forks is .71"(18mm) so a direct mathematical ratio is 1:2.82(front to rear)
drop It may not work perfect, but it will give you a point to start at while you determine if the front end is too light or plowing in(slow) with your weight distribution setup.Don't forget to Set the SAG after.
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Old 01-05-2013, 08:27 AM   #32274
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Don't forget to Set the SAG after.
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Old 01-05-2013, 08:30 AM   #32275
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Hey ba_
Where in Westchester co. are you? I use to live just over the bridge in Bergen co. NJ
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Old 01-05-2013, 08:48 AM   #32276
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Originally Posted by ba_ View Post
Yeah there is definitely a lot of information out there. I was seeing if someone had a link to the definitive source.

What did lowering by 15mm do for you?
Combined with a Yamalink and some 'stock' lowering on the shock (don't recall exactly how much), it gave me the seat height I was after plus the steering response I liked. I experimented a bit with the front; 15 suited me best. 0-10 was too imprecise and 20-25 was too quick. Less than 5mm changes I really couldn't feel that much. I've also got a GPR damper. I really think one needs to play around a bit to get the best result. I followed the Yamalink advice to get a starting point.

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Old 01-05-2013, 10:17 AM   #32277
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Just picked up 2008 model, with FMF Power Bomb header, Q4 muffler, but no air box mods or power programmer. The bike has a bad stumbling at small throttle opening, not just immediately off idle which I see many references to, but if you hold it just barely open it will stumble along, clearing up once you crack it more open and get the revs up. It is very pronounced when cold. Thoughts?
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Old 01-05-2013, 10:50 AM   #32278
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Well its an r but I have been doing my best to make it an x






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Old 01-05-2013, 11:18 AM   #32279
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Not surprising it has a bad stumble. You need a fuel programmer, and ideally, the intake system should be modified to allow more air to enter the engine. Allowing the engine to exhale better with an aftermarket exhaust system is good for increased performance, but without equal modifications to allow tbe engine to inhale more air, and by not adjusting the fuel metering, you've only achieved an upset in the fuel/air mix ratio. You need to keep air intake, air out (exhaust), and fuel metering in balance.

Get an FMF programmer and remove the airbox flapper to start.

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Originally Posted by idc22 View Post
Just picked up 2008 model, with FMF Power Bomb header, Q4 muffler, but no air box mods or power programmer. The bike has a bad stumbling at small throttle opening, not just immediately off idle which I see many references to, but if you hold it just barely open it will stumble along, clearing up once you crack it more open and get the revs up. It is very pronounced when cold. Thoughts?
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Old 01-05-2013, 12:30 PM   #32280
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Well its an r but I have been doing my best to make it a x
very nice! Did you buy the black plastics and vinyl?
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