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Old 01-24-2013, 11:08 AM   #32671
duanew1
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Joined: Dec 2008
Location: Huntsville, AL
Oddometer: 760
Quote:
Originally Posted by Wingnut037 View Post
Going to put a lower profile rear on the wife's we as the trials is a bit tall for her.
I put a Shinko SR241 on the rear of my WR and I like it. I have another bike with an MT43 on it. The SR241 is at least an inch shorter over all than the MT43 so there is an option. Plus they are pretty cheap. I might could get some pics later if you want them.
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Old 01-24-2013, 11:10 AM   #32672
Crawdaddy
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Joined: Jun 2007
Location: Ramona, CA.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wingnut037 View Post
Thanks again Chris. Going to put a lower profile rear on the wife's we as the trials is a bit tall for her. I'm loving the low impact of it here on the mountain. Tractoring up these hills with almost no impact is great. Feel free to stop by and ride any of our two and a half WR's if you get the itch, but be warned, the new one is pretty low on power...
I'll come up sometime with the KTM and we'll romp around the mtn (when it's not raining or snowing).....

I'll let you know on foot pegs after this weekend....
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Old 01-24-2013, 04:12 PM   #32673
FODcan
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WR250R options

Hey everyone, I've been thinking of picking up an R model for an extended trip that is being planned with a friend. After reading many of the post on here, I'm sure I will be happy. I had been considering the XT250 but I think that the WR will be a much more capable bike. My only concern is the height, I am what you would say, vertically challenged. That is the only area where the XT would be a perfect fit. My inseam is 30", and I have had a TTR250 for better then 10 years that has a similar seat height as the WR. However, I think that for a month long ride I would be better off with a bike under 33".
Just wondering what you guys thought about getting that seat closer to the ground. Installing a lowering link and adjusting the rear and front could get me nearly 2", changing seats I might get 1". How about putting X rims on and running a dual sport tire rather then a knobby? Your thoughts?
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Old 01-24-2013, 04:23 PM   #32674
swimmer
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Joined: Oct 2007
Location: tucson, AZ, It's a dry hate.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FODcan View Post
Hey everyone, I've been thinking of picking up an R model for an extended trip that is being planned with a friend. After reading many of the post on here, I'm sure I will be happy. I had been considering the XT250 but I think that the WR will be a much more capable bike. My only concern is the height, I am what you would say, vertically challenged. Your thoughts?
My inseam is about 30". No issues with stock set up.
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Old 01-24-2013, 04:57 PM   #32675
amtz.zero
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Joined: Mar 2011
Location: Moreno Valley, CA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FODcan View Post
Hey everyone, I've been thinking of picking up an R model for an extended trip that is being planned with a friend. After reading many of the post on here, I'm sure I will be happy. I had been considering the XT250 but I think that the WR will be a much more capable bike. My only concern is the height, I am what you would say, vertically challenged. That is the only area where the XT would be a perfect fit. My inseam is 30", and I have had a TTR250 for better then 10 years that has a similar seat height as the WR. However, I think that for a month long ride I would be better off with a bike under 33".
Just wondering what you guys thought about getting that seat closer to the ground. Installing a lowering link and adjusting the rear and front could get me nearly 2", changing seats I might get 1". How about putting X rims on and running a dual sport tire rather then a knobby? Your thoughts?
I also am not too tall and I have no problems with this bike. You can lower the bike 1'' with the adjuster on the shock, then get the lowering link, and if you still feel it's too tall, get the spiral step seat. It will give you another inch. I'd go for the WR if I were you, but I was tired of carburetors already...
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Old 01-24-2013, 05:01 PM   #32676
TwilightZone
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My inseam is 29"... I lowered the back 1" (maximum for the 'standard suspension'), raised the forks 5/8" of an inch. No problems as long as you have... I guess, 'low profile' tires. (i.e. not 606's and other big outside diameter tires).

Seat Concepts seat... I've ridden mine for 500 mile days.
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Old 01-24-2013, 05:35 PM   #32677
japako
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Joined: Nov 2010
Location: North Texas
Oddometer: 592
I have a 30" inseam and have done the factory lowering, and the Yamalink.
That all worked great for me until I put the d 606 on the rear and a mt21 on the front.. LOL Watch out for the tires you pick to put on the bike..

I like to get both feet on the ground at the same time.. lol
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Old 01-24-2013, 05:52 PM   #32678
rideonjon
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heated gear

i've have some heated clothes that i want to use, gloves and a jacket,i was wondering what wire to tap into for the power.i have heard that the power wire going into the headlight hi/lo beam switch is a good one as it is only hot when the bike is running.does this have enough power to run both the headlight and my heated gear.
cheers,
jon
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Old 01-24-2013, 06:27 PM   #32679
Buzzbomber
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For heated gear, I just run the harness directly off the battery. I wouldn't tap into the headlight wiring for that. The heated gear will only be drawing current when you're on the bike with it plugged in, so no worries about running the battery down (unless you like to sit on the bike in heated gear without the engine running...).
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Old 01-24-2013, 06:49 PM   #32680
swimmer
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Buzzbomber View Post
For heated gear, I just run the harness directly off the battery. I wouldn't tap into the headlight wiring for that. The heated gear will only be drawing current when you're on the bike with it plugged in, so no worries about running the battery down (unless you like to sit on the bike in heated gear without the engine running...).
+1, a fused line straight from the battery or, a fuze block type set up.
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Old 01-24-2013, 06:53 PM   #32681
DougZ73
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You only have to worry about seat height when you come to a stop....and if you only have one leg. :)

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Old 01-24-2013, 06:57 PM   #32682
skierd
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Joined: Jan 2008
Location: Fairbanks, AK
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I run my heated grips off the headlamp circuit, but run my heated gear plug off its own circuit off the battery. I don't think there's enough spare amps in the headlamp circuit for a heated jacket's power draw, and wouldn't want to risk the headlight blowing in the middle of a ride to find out.
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Old 01-24-2013, 07:30 PM   #32683
FODcan
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Thanks for the replies on the seat height. I think I'll be happy with it, now I just need to wait on a sweeeet deal.
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Old 01-24-2013, 07:47 PM   #32684
pfy50
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Location: Oneida, Tenn.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rideonjon View Post
i've have some heated clothes that i want to use, gloves and a jacket,i was wondering what wire to tap into for the power.i have heard that the power wire going into the headlight hi/lo beam switch is a good one as it is only hot when the bike is running.does this have enough power to run both the headlight and my heated gear.
cheers,
jon
+2 Like mentioned above. rideonjon,
Your headlight is fused for 15 amps. Your jacket and gloves nominally use 7-10amps depending on brand and if used together. Your headlight uses 4.4 to 4.8amps which would put it very close to circuit overload. It is best that heated clothing has its own circuit; fused with or without a switch, depending on whether you do/don't have a rheostat to control heat.
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Old 01-24-2013, 08:29 PM   #32685
rideonjon
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thanks for the responses i just wired it direct to the battery with an inline fuse 15A,seems to work fine.
cheers,
jon
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