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Old 01-30-2013, 05:21 PM   #32836
what broke now
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Quote:
Originally Posted by yaw View Post
I just cleaned my spark arrestor for the second time in the last 1,000 miles or so. It was pretty dirty again. I've been riding a daily for short trips in the city and it's been pretty cold here (well, 30's and 40's). Should I chalk this up to lots of warm ups? Or is this a sign of something else going on? It's been running great, never a hickup. About 21,000 on the clock.
Are you running the stock muffler or something else?
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Old 01-30-2013, 06:08 PM   #32837
UtahFox
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Originally Posted by winchester3030 View Post
thank you all for the response ,,hiway dirt bike is the way i'm going ordered and on the way ....!!!!
Awesome, those are really nice.
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Old 01-30-2013, 06:16 PM   #32838
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Originally Posted by winchester3030 View Post
OK heres something for those of you who know this forum.... what is the best hand gaurds out there and what thread would i see them on ??? '12 250r thanks .......
Highway dirt bikes handgaurds
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Old 01-30-2013, 07:49 PM   #32839
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Originally Posted by what broke now View Post
Are you running the stock muffler or something else?
I would like to know too...........
I've been having some trouble with "top end" power. A clean air filter doesn't change anything. The bike doesn't want to pull 65, 70 mph in 6 th like it used to................................
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Old 01-30-2013, 08:16 PM   #32840
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Quote:
Originally Posted by UtahFox View Post
Awesome, those are really nice.
Worth the investment in my experience.

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Old 01-30-2013, 09:18 PM   #32841
DefyInertia
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jon_l View Post
One reason to stick with 21/18 is that they will use the same brake caliper location and disc size. Also, I would think you would need to adjust the suspension to go 21 > 17 in the front, and 18 > 17 in the rear. Ditto the chain length. No big deal maybe, but messing with brakes and forks with every wheel swap would be a turn-off for me.

Just buy another set of 21/18 wheels, and mount some Trailwings or Shinko 700s on one set, and run DOT knobbies on the other.
Huh?

You can use whatever rotor on the front and whatever sprocket you want on the rear regardless of wheel size. Wheel size itself does not have a direct impact on caliper location or chain length.

I have a set of 17s for my WRR that swap out in 10 mins. 17s with sticky rubber dot compare to a 21/18 set up with ok street rubber.

My bike is set up for dirt but I can run a good pace at the motard track without adjusting the suspension, but I'm light.
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Old 01-30-2013, 09:47 PM   #32842
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Originally Posted by easy_dualsport View Post
Worth the investment in my experience.
I wonder if they'll work with Easton fat bars?
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Old 01-31-2013, 03:45 AM   #32843
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rear brake lever bolt

Is there a proper torque for the bolt that goes through the rear brake lever? Or do you just make it tight enough and then slide the clip through the back end?
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Old 01-31-2013, 04:10 AM   #32844
easy_dualsport
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Quote:
Originally Posted by UtahFox View Post
I wonder if they'll work with Easton fat bars?
Paul, the owner at HDB would be able to tell you. He could also probably change the clamp to fit if you wanted. Go to his site, and contact him for a direct answer.
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Old 01-31-2013, 05:52 AM   #32845
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Quote:
Originally Posted by UtahFox View Post
I wonder if they'll work with Easton fat bars?
Fat bars are a common width.......shouldn't be an issue.......I just threw a set on my KTM along with a dash mount to move the instrument cluster up top, Powerlet, pushbutton for heated grips....

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Old 01-31-2013, 07:37 AM   #32846
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Quote:
Originally Posted by easy_dualsport View Post
Paul, the owner at HDB would be able to tell you. He could also probably change the clamp to fit if you wanted. Go to his site, and contact him for a direct answer.
Cool, I will put that in the vault until the time comes.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Crawdaddy View Post
Fat bars are a common width.......shouldn't be an issue.......I just threw a set on my KTM along with a dash mount to move the instrument cluster up top, Powerlet, pushbutton for heated grips....
That setup is tight, and looks exactly like what I would want.

I've got the bars, now I just need to get my bike sold, find and retrieve a Wrr, then I'll be all over it. With luck *knocks on wood* this will be happening within the next 2 weeks.
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Old 01-31-2013, 07:46 AM   #32847
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ba_ View Post
Is there a proper torque for the bolt that goes through the rear brake lever? Or do you just make it tight enough and then slide the clip through the back end?
Just snug against nut. Should give plenty of room to get on the washer and clip through there. Clip will keep nut from coming off if it loosens up. Also, it is a pivot point, so remember to lubricate( I like waterproof bearing grease) the shoulder of the bolt( non threaded) section, where the lever pivots on.
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Old 01-31-2013, 07:52 AM   #32848
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Quote:
Originally Posted by UtahFox View Post
I wonder if they'll work with Easton fat bars?

...HDB guards work with any fatbar. He sends you threaded inserts including a tap to thread it in. I've been down with mine more than I like to admit and they are killer strong.
And the mirrors work great.
I like crashin' thru thangs...
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Old 01-31-2013, 07:55 AM   #32849
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Why aftermarket bars?

I noticed a lot of people in this thread have replaced the stock bars with aftermarket bars. What is the main reason for doing so, is it ergonomics or are aftermarket bars less prone to damage during a crash? Given that most aftermarket bars are aluminum and the stock are steel, I would have thought the stock would be stronger. Thanks for the feedback.
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Old 01-31-2013, 08:01 AM   #32850
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Most aluminum fat bars are stronger than the cheap steel 7/8" OEM bars. Also, lighter.

And in most cases, the fat bars will not have the silly cross bar that seems to just be in the way when you want to add things like RAM mounts, or hand guards.
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