Yamaha WR250R Mega Thread

[thumpididump]

Most aluminum fat bars are stronger than the cheap steel 7/8" OEM bars. Also, lighter.

And in most cases, the fat bars will not have the silly cross bar that seems to just be in the way when you want to add things like RAM mounts, or hand guards.

[UtahFox]

Originally Posted by ggemelos

I noticed a lot of people in this thread have replaced the stock bars with aftermarket bars. What is the main reason for doing so, is it ergonomics or are aftermarket bars less prone to damage during a crash? Given that most aftermarket bars are aluminum and the stock are steel, I would have thought the stock would be stronger. Thanks for the feedback.

In a word? MacGyver.

[ba_]

Originally Posted by DougZ73

Just snug against nut. Should give plenty of room to get on the washer and clip through there. Clip will keep nut from coming off if it loosens up. Also, it is a pivot point, so remember to lubricate( I like waterproof bearing grease) the shoulder of the bolt( non threaded) section, where the lever pivots on.

+1 on the grease. I was going to use waterproof grease

I was referring to bolt 2 in this diagram:



I'm not sure what nut you are referring to

[MeefZah]

Originally Posted by ggemelos

I noticed a lot of people in this thread have replaced the stock bars with aftermarket bars. What is the main reason for doing so, is it ergonomics or are aftermarket bars less prone to damage during a crash? Given that most aftermarket bars are aluminum and the stock are steel, I would have thought the stock would be stronger. Thanks for the feedback.

More bend resistant in a crash or a drop.

[Longboardr]

Originally Posted by ba_

I was referring to bolt 2 in this diagram:

That looks to be a shoulder bolt, you can tighten to your hearts content. The shoulder of the bolt hits what you're tightening it against and stops you from being able to pinch/bind the pedal from over tightening.

[DougZ73]

Originally Posted by ba_

+1 on the grease. I was going to use waterproof grease

I was referring to bolt 2 in this diagram:



I'm not sure what nut you are referring to

Too many bikes I work on...KTM has nut on backside. WRR threads into frame boss.

Still same advice....just snug....washer and clip will keep bolt from working itself out. If worried, and I think I did this on mine, a small drop of blue(medium) thread locker on bolt. Threaded aluminum is not too strong, so I'd be surprised if torque spec( for that bolt) was any higher than 8-9 ft/lbs.

[jon_l]

Originally Posted by DefyInertia

Huh?

You can use whatever rotor on the front and whatever sprocket you want on the rear regardless of wheel size. Wheel size itself does not have a direct impact on caliper location or chain length.

I have a set of 17s for my WRR that swap out in 10 mins. 17s with sticky rubber dot compare to a 21/18 set up with ok street rubber.

My bike is set up for dirt but I can run a good pace at the motard track without adjusting the suspension, but I'm light.

Maybe I misspoke? The WRX caliper and rotor is different than the WRR. I guess with a custom wheel set up correctly, you can swap easier.

It is hard to imagine that dropping the front 2" wouldn't have an impact on handling. When lowering the bike using the shock clevis, everyone raises the forks 1/2"-3/4" to compensate. Lowering amount is a smaller change that 21">17" front swap.

[ba_]

Originally Posted by Longboardr

That looks to be a shoulder bolt, you can tighten to your hearts content. The shoulder of the bolt hits what you're tightening it against and stops you from being able to pinch/bind the pedal from over tightening.

Thanks

Just make sure you remove the clip off the back before removing the bolt (oops).

[DougZ73]

Originally Posted by ba_

Thanks

Just make sure you remove the clip off the back before removing the bolt (oops).

LOL....yeah.

[UtahFox]

I'm curious, if you just install this header, does it increase the bikes' HP? I'm also wondering about the volume, does that increase a lot as well?

[TwilightZone]

>"I'm curious, if you just install this header, does it increase the bikes' HP?"

I think the bike reaches max RPM's much easier. Without the header I didn't reach the cutoff-rpm very easily. After the header, it winds much easier to the cutoff point. I also think the header improved the torque through the powerband... (and quite a bit). But I don't think it made much of a difference on the max hp. Am running a quiet spark arrestor, more with the exhaust open... I dunno. (see below)

>"I'm also wondering about the volume, does that increase a lot as well? "

Didn't really notice anything in the volume. I'm running the header with a Q4 exhaust... and an install of the 'Powercore' spark arrestor (the quiet one I can't remember the part number, somewhere here in the thread).

IMHO: Pretty reasonable noise levels.

[DefyInertia]

Originally Posted by jon_l

Maybe I misspoke? The WRX caliper and rotor is different than the WRR. I guess with a custom wheel set up correctly, you can swap easier.

It is hard to imagine that dropping the front 2" wouldn't have an impact on handling. When lowering the bike using the shock clevis, everyone raises the forks 1/2"-3/4" to compensate. Lowering amount is a smaller change that 21">17" front swap.

Got it, I didn't get that you meant X swap. I would say buy the x wheel and an R rotor if not wanting to mess with the caliper/MC stuff. Don't really need custom and incremental cost is small. Stoppies all day and fine for street, but my brake hand does get awful tired at the motard track.

Yes it impacts handling, it handles like the X. Whoot! Lower over all with lower front relative to R. This is a good thing, not something that needs to be compensated for like when simply lowering the R for a shorter rider.

My point is, I have sportsman set ups and tard setups, the 17s are the way to go (for second set) IMO and an easy swap.

[Llamaha]

I am thinking of purchasing the 21/18 set for my WRX from wheeling cycle supply, anyone here had any issues with these? It will have to be a straight swap kit or I won't have the time to swap them ever. Can I use the same chain?

[Jungle Man]

Originally Posted by Llamaha

I am thinking of purchasing the 21/18 set for my WRX from wheeling cycle supply, anyone here had any issues with these? It will have to be a straight swap kit or I won't have the time to swap them ever. Can I use the same chain?

I've heard good things about wheeling cycle supply.
I got my warp 9's new on ebay. They are a direct swap out and only $719 total. They seem to be stout; have handled bouncing on rocks with a flat for a few seconds, and a few hard hits.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/COMPLETE-WHE...b201b5&vxp=mtr

[thumpididump]

I've got the 18/21 SM Pro kit on my X and they are indeed a direct swap. I also bought OEM brake rotors to save me the hassle of swapping those when I want to switch back and forth between street and dirt. Makes it real easy, and the larger diameter rotor up front offers great stopping power. I also bought a 49T sprocket for the rear wheel, and I use a 110 link chain.

You can use the same chain as long as you use the same size rear sprocket, but for dirt, you'll probably want 3 or 4 extra teeth in the rear.

Originally Posted by Llamaha

I am thinking of purchasing the 21/18 set for my WRX from wheeling cycle supply, anyone here had any issues with these? It will have to be a straight swap kit or I won't have the time to swap them ever. Can I use the same chain?