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Old 02-06-2013, 09:35 PM   #32986
Scott_PDX
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Location: Portland...the newer one on the left side.
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Bummer you had to two the WR home...but...that is AWESOME!
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Old 02-07-2013, 04:18 AM   #32987
rsteiger
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I have to admit that at first glance Gary's setup looks to be a bit redneck, but it actually works quite well. I rode behind the two of you on my Strom for a bit and I noticed that he even has all the electrical hooked up to the trailer (stop light and turn signals). Very nice setup.
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Old 02-07-2013, 06:13 AM   #32988
30Bones
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Nut to butt
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Old 02-07-2013, 06:30 AM   #32989
ggemelos
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Aftermarket bars

I am looking at picking up a set of Pro Taper Contour bars. I am happy with the stock ride position and was wondering which bars are closest to the stock geometry.
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Old 02-07-2013, 06:33 AM   #32990
30Bones
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Originally Posted by ggemelos View Post
I am looking at picking up a set of Pro Taper Contour bars. I am happy with the stock ride position and was wondering which bars are closest to the stock geometry.
Why change bars if the stock ones feel fine?
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Old 02-07-2013, 06:37 AM   #32991
ggemelos
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Originally Posted by 30Bones View Post
Why change bars if the stock ones feel fine?

Get rid of the cross bar and more resistant to bending in a crash. I also am thinking of a Scotts stabilizer and do not believe it would fit with the stock top clamp and bar setup.
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Old 02-07-2013, 07:59 AM   #32992
swimmer
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Originally Posted by Scott_PDX View Post
So much for the 24,000 mile valve check.
No reason to make an assumption based off of one person's experience.
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Old 02-07-2013, 08:31 AM   #32993
AZ TOM
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No reason to make an assumption based off of one person's experience.
Well said. Just look at the variation in fuel pump problems! Heading to Death Valley end of March, original pump, over 11,000 & no spare pump. Crazy? Maybe? Paranoid no!
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Old 02-07-2013, 09:11 AM   #32994
Longboardr
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Originally Posted by ggemelos View Post
I am looking at picking up a set of Pro Taper Contour bars. I am happy with the stock ride position and was wondering which bars are closest to the stock geometry.
I was in the same position and went with the Pastrana FMX bend.

If you decide to mount a stabilizer with an under the clamp mount you could go with a Pastrana MX/RM LOW bend to keep the bars from getting too high.

Pro Taper gives you dimensions of the bars here
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Old 02-07-2013, 10:59 AM   #32995
UtahFox
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Anyone know of a tail rack that is compatible with a Rotopax mount? One that no drilling would be needed.
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Old 02-07-2013, 11:02 AM   #32996
ggemelos
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Originally Posted by Longboardr View Post
I was in the same position and went with the Pastrana FMX bend.

If you decide to mount a stabilizer with an under the clamp mount you could go with a Pastrana MX/RM LOW bend to keep the bars from getting too high.

Pro Taper gives you dimensions of the bars here

Thanks for the feedback. It make sense to pick somewhat lower bars to offset the risers needed for the stabilize.
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Old 02-07-2013, 11:40 AM   #32997
oldtrucks
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Originally Posted by UtahFox View Post
Anyone know of a tail rack that is compatible with a Rotopax mount? One that no drilling would be needed.
There is a guy that sells a nice billet one on WR Forum, comes in two sizes and works with the RotoPax

http://wr250rforum.forumotion.com/t6...rack-available

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Old 02-07-2013, 11:42 AM   #32998
huron52
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What size of socket/ allen wrench do I need to remove the front axle? 17 mm is to big 14mm looks too small Is it a 15mm, if so where do I find one... Or do I even need on to remove the axle?
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Old 02-07-2013, 11:54 AM   #32999
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What size of socket/ allen wrench do I need to remove the front axle? 17 mm is to big 14mm looks too small Is it a 15mm, if so where do I find one... Or do I even need on to remove the axle?
Deadblow hammer or rubber mallet... remove axle nut (27mm), loosen the four pinch bolts around axle, tap with hammer to remove. If it's gritty or stuck you may have to use a drift (I use a 3/8" extension) to tap it once the nut end of the axle is inside the left fork. The end with the hex is not threaded, but larger than the part of the axle that goes through the wheel, so once you drive it 2" or so (width of the fork leg) it's easily removed.
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Old 02-07-2013, 11:59 AM   #33000
UtahFox
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Originally Posted by oldtrucks View Post
There is a guy that sells a nice billet one on WR Forum, comes in two sizes and works with the RotoPax
Thanks!

Well, I'm all set. Driving down to Palm Springs tomorrow and scheduled to pick up a new (to me) 2011 Wrr. Going to drive it back to Salt Lake via the back roads in Nevada in an attempt to stay as low and dry as possible back up here. Pics to follow :)

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