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Old 02-16-2013, 11:38 AM   #33151
HardWorkingDog
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Quote:
Originally Posted by burtonrider3889 View Post
...I have a question on the front settings though. High Fives settings say 15 clicks out. Is that 15 clicks from soft or hard? The way it's written it seems like it would be from soft, but since the back settings are set up so soft I figured maybe the front should be too. 15 clicks from soft seems like it would be really stiff.

Also, I can't find the lower adjuster on the front.
Best thing to do is to spend a couple hours of trial and error to find out what setting works best for you.

The lower adjuster is hidden behind a rubber plug that pries out with a slotted screwdriver. It may be covered with a film of dried dirt so may not look like rubber. You'll almost have to lay down on your back with your head next to the front wheel looking up to see it. There's a flat spot in the plug to allow the blade to slip in. You'll see the clicker once you remove the plug.

Good luck!
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Old 02-16-2013, 12:39 PM   #33152
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Old 02-16-2013, 03:01 PM   #33153
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Quote:
Originally Posted by burtonrider3889 View Post
So I got my suspension settings changed finally, and I think it made a huge difference. Bike seemed a lot easier to handle, and lowered it a tad more as well.

I have a question on the front settings though. High Fives settings say 15 clicks out. Is that 15 clicks from soft or hard? The way it's written it seems like it would be from soft, but since the back settings are set up so soft I figured maybe the front should be too. 15 clicks from soft seems like it would be really stiff.

Also, I can't find the lower adjuster on the front.
HF's settings on the forks are very soft. Very little damping.
Screw the clickers down till they seat........ not too tight as they seat........ and back them out the number recommended. Mine are still set there after a year of riding.
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Old 02-16-2013, 05:51 PM   #33154
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Originally Posted by KansasBob View Post
HF's settings on the forks are very soft. Very little damping.
Screw the clickers down till they seat........ not too tight as they seat........ and back them out the number recommended. Mine are still set there after a year of riding.
Awesome! So 15 clicks from full hard. Got it.

Also, I assumed I have to adjust the chain while the rear wheel is off the ground? Sat in a Napa parking lot trying to push it back some like an idiot for like 20 minutes yesterday. The chain got pretty loose and is rubbing pretty bad into that plastic (?) black piece thats hooked to the swingarm.
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Old 02-16-2013, 07:07 PM   #33155
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Quote:
Originally Posted by burtonrider3889 View Post
Also, I assumed I have to adjust the chain while the rear wheel is off the ground? Sat in a Napa parking lot trying to push it back some like an idiot for like 20 minutes yesterday. The chain got pretty loose and is rubbing pretty bad into that plastic (?) black piece thats hooked to the swingarm.
Nope, not quite. You don't want to adjust it with the rear wheel off the ground because if you do, your measurements of chain slack will be way off. Just make sure it's in neutral so the wheel can revolve, and push the wheel forward with your knee or something to seat it against the adjuster blocks while you are tightening the axle nut when you are happy with the slack.
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Old 02-17-2013, 06:02 AM   #33156
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Originally Posted by Buzzbomber View Post
Nope, not quite. You don't want to adjust it with the rear wheel off the ground because if you do, your measurements of chain slack will be way off. Just make sure it's in neutral so the wheel can revolve, and push the wheel forward with your knee or something to seat it against the adjuster blocks while you are tightening the axle nut when you are happy with the slack.
Ok, so then can someone school me on what to do to tighten it? I used to adjust it on my SV all the time. This wouldn't budge though. I loosened the big bolt that holds the shaft in place that goes through the rear wheel, then with the 12 mm wrench tried tightening the little bolts where the adjuster is, but they wouldn't budge. Did I miss a step somewhere?

Also, I've got pretty deep grooves in that plastic piece now. Is that ok? Have any of you guys ended up replacing that?
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Old 02-17-2013, 06:59 AM   #33157
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Quote:
Originally Posted by burtonrider3889 View Post
Ok, so then can someone school me on what to do to tighten it? I used to adjust it on my SV all the time. This wouldn't budge though. I loosened the big bolt that holds the shaft in place that goes through the rear wheel, then with the 12 mm wrench tried tightening the little bolts where the adjuster is, but they wouldn't budge. Did I miss a step somewhere?

Also, I've got pretty deep grooves in that plastic piece now. Is that ok? Have any of you guys ended up replacing that?
Did you loosen the 13mm locking nut first?
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Old 02-17-2013, 07:35 AM   #33158
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Quote:
Originally Posted by burtonrider3889 View Post
Ok, so then can someone school me on what to do to tighten it? I used to adjust it on my SV all the time. This wouldn't budge though. I loosened the big bolt that holds the shaft in place that goes through the rear wheel, then with the 12 mm wrench tried tightening the little bolts where the adjuster is, but they wouldn't budge. Did I miss a step somewhere?

Also, I've got pretty deep grooves in that plastic piece now. Is that ok? Have any of you guys ended up replacing that?
Sounds like you got the axle nut loose. Next, with a 10mm and a 12 mm wrench, loosen the 12mm lock nut while holding the 10mm adjusting bolt. Do that on each side. Then (assuming the wheel is aligned) use the 10 mm wrench to screw out the adjuster an equal number of turns on each side. Once you have the slack adjusted correctly squeeze the chain with your left hand--grab the top and bottom runs thumb on top, other fingers on bottom--which will pull the wheel and axle firmly into the adjusters. Tighten the axle nut while with your right hand while keeping the chain tight with your left. Once the axle nut is tight hold the adjuster nut with the 10mm wrench and tighten the 12mm lock nuts back against the swingarm.

(I've left out checking the wheel for alignment...)

And yes, replace the plastic piece, now. It's less than $50, and the only thing keeping your chain from eating through the swingarm. Yamaha calls it a "seal guard." Motosport.com is having an oem parts sale this weekend--here you go: http://www.motosport.com/dirtbike/oe...D7-22151-00-00
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Old 02-17-2013, 08:06 AM   #33159
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Quote:
Originally Posted by burtonrider3889 View Post
Ok, so then can someone school me on what to do to tighten it? I used to adjust it on my SV all the time. This wouldn't budge though. I loosened the big bolt that holds the shaft in place that goes through the rear wheel, then with the 12 mm wrench tried tightening the little bolts where the adjuster is, but they wouldn't budge. Did I miss a step somewhere?

Also, I've got pretty deep grooves in that plastic piece now. Is that ok? Have any of you guys ended up replacing that?
It's kind of tight working on the adjuster bolts. Barley enough room for an open end wrench on the jam nut.
Here is how I do it............
Break the jam nuts loose on both adjusters. Loosen the axle nut,but leave it just snug. Assuming your chain is loose, and the axle needs to be "pushed back" by the adjuster bolts, you push the axle back with the adjuster. Even though the axle is somewhat tight, the adjuster has the power to push it back, but it won't move once you get it where you want it because it's snug. Once you're happy with your chain tension, and alignment, crank the axle nut tight, then tighten your adjuster "jam nut".
How much slack in the chain is controversial, and the method recommended by Yamaha uses a pressure tool and measurements from the swing arm.......... kind of complicated. I suppose most people use the time honored "toe of the boot" method. The best way I've found to do it on this bike is to have someone help you. Have your helper push down on the back of the bike, and compress the suspension until the rear axle is level as the counter sprocket. The point where the chain is at it's tightest point. Check you chain, and it should have just enough slack to not be "tight" or in a "bind"
If you are loose, tighten it up as I described above. If you are tight I find it is best to move the axle back to a point were it is too loose again and start the process over. Just loosen the axle up, screw the adjuster in a couple of turns, knock the axle forward with a mallet, or a block of wood and a hammer, then start over moving the snug axle back.

I think I am safe in saying........ The swing arm guard, and the way the chain rides on it is a design flaw on this bike that Yamaha hasn't addressed. They wear out all the time, and sometimes go south in a very short time if the chain is dirty and loose. The only thing available is the factory piece, and you can get them for around $40 on line. Get one on order, you're going to need one soon. If you wait too long your chain will dig into your swing arm.
Hope this all makes sense.

KansasBob screwed with this post 02-17-2013 at 08:35 AM
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Old 02-17-2013, 08:47 AM   #33160
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I plan on ordering a rear Shinko 244 but was debating about 4.60 vs 5.10. But then I looked at this chart: http://shinkotire.co.kr/english/02pr...ode=AA00050045 and realized that the 4.10 is same width as 4.6 but same height as 5.10 so I'm going with the 4.10. Little confusing to me.
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Old 02-17-2013, 09:07 AM   #33161
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KansasBob View Post

I think I am safe in saying........ The swing arm guard, and the way the chain rides on it is a design flaw on this bike that Yamaha hasn't addressed. They wear out all the time, and sometimes go south in a very short time if the chain is dirty and loose. The only thing available is the factory piece, and you can get them for around $40 on line. Get one on order, you're going to need one soon. If you wait too long your chain will dig into your swing arm.
Hope this all makes sense.
While I cannot dispute that this is a flaw, I hardly think it's a life defining crisis like some guys make it out to be. It certainly isn't "all the time".

I replaced mine once, at 20,000 miles, and that was only because I was putting a 14T on and was curious about wear on the slider with the 14T and I wouldn;t be able to discern "new" wear on an old part. The original part was still fine, it was grooved but not worn through.

It's a wear item part, it's designed to be relaced.

You know what I would do if I happened to notice that it was worn through and was eating into the swingarm? Not give a shit.
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Old 02-17-2013, 09:13 AM   #33162
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Originally Posted by MeefZah View Post
While I cannot dispute that this is a flaw, I hardly think it's a life defining crisis like some guys make it out to be. It certainly isn't "all the time".
.

I would agree. I only have around 10k on my bike and the slider is fine still. I bought 2 to have as spares and they are still sitting on the shelf.
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Old 02-17-2013, 09:21 AM   #33163
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MeefZah View Post
While I cannot dispute that this is a flaw, I hardly think it's a life defining crisis like some guys make it out to be. It certainly isn't "all the time".

I replaced mine once, at 20,000 miles, and that was only because I was putting a 14T on and was curious about wear on the slider with the 14T and I wouldn;t be able to discern "new" wear on an old part. The original part was still fine, it was grooved but not worn through.

It's a wear item part, it's designed to be relaced.

You know what I would do if I happened to notice that it was worn through and was eating into the swingarm? Not give a shit.
I had to replace my rubber swingarm guard around 11K miles, but that was 3K miles after I changed from the stock 13T to a 12T front sprocket, which I believe was the entire problem all along. I simultaneously replaced chain and both sprockets (13/47 this time) and have seen nothing more than normal wear on the new rubber guard, nothing worrisome. The bike now has almost 22K miles on the clock.

I am careful to keep the chain adjusted by the tried-and-true method of checking the tension whilst someone is on the bike compressing the suspension. I set it so at full compression there's still a little slack, maybe an inch up and down in the center of the chain. Of course, this means the chain appears quite loose without a rider on the bike.

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Old 02-17-2013, 12:59 PM   #33164
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The combination of a loose chain and running at high speeds will exacerbate the slider wear.

Seems running a larger rear sprocket helps a lot as well. I've run 12/47 and 13/47 with no issue.
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Old 02-17-2013, 06:49 PM   #33165
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Originally Posted by z@ch View Post
The combination of a loose chain and running at high speeds will exacerbate the slider wear.

Seems running a larger rear sprocket helps a lot as well. I've run 12/47 and 13/47 with no issue.
I thought the excess wear was due to a "too tight chain".

I've been reading this thread for 2 years and still confused as to the cause.
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