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Old 02-28-2013, 06:40 PM   #33451
swimmer
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Quote:
Originally Posted by duanew1 View Post
I

I do like the Tubliss system that it came with. I have been reading all about it and there are many positives. One is the ability to use tire plugs to quickly repair flats. I might get a set for my WR.

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I just installed a new set of D606 tires and at the same time installed the tubliss system front and rear. Screw tubes. Also I didn't seal the front properly and took the bike for it spin and the front deflated. Still ride-able with the inner bladder full.
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Old 02-28-2013, 06:41 PM   #33452
DougZ73
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Originally Posted by henrymartin View Post
Given the condition of the maintenance items on my "new to me" bike, I'd like to change the fork oil tomorrow. My google-fu is not returning any useable results, and I never emptied WR forks (or any USD forks for that matter, only conventional - plenty of them). So...

loosen top nut, remove forks from clamps, unscrew top, dump oil out, clean, and refill with new?

What is the spec oil amount in each leg and the torque for top nut (not clamps)?

Anyone went with 10w fork oil instead of the stock 5w?

Thanks!
I'll have to confirm when not holding a sleeping kid, but I went with Motule 5W fork oil. I think 95 mm from top of fork.

Snug tight ....tight enough to stay tight, but not strip out the expensive threads.

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Old 02-28-2013, 06:49 PM   #33453
BlueLghtning
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Quote:
Originally Posted by duanew1 View Post
I picked up a TE610 recently as a trade for another one of my bikes and I am not sure that I am going to love it as much as I love the WR250R. Sure it has more power. Sure it has more torque. I have not found that I needed more than the WR has in the tight stuff. You just have to rev it out to get the power. Now I feel like I have to short shift the TE610 in order to keep it off the rev limiter. It is just a different way of riding. The TE610 really is better on the road above 70. Who wants to do that though?

The TE610 sure feel heavier almost all of the time. The steering is heavier. I think that it doesn't help is that I do not like the Trackmaster front tire. The alternating knobs are too far off center and the tire does not seem to get good bite when you are only slightly leaned over. YMMV. There is also much more vibration than in the WR. I really think it does a pretty good job for a big bore thumper.

I do like the Tubliss system that it came with. I have been reading all about it and there are many positives. One is the ability to use tire plugs to quickly repair flats. I might get a set for my WR.

It came with a set of SM wheels and tires also which is cool.

That being said, I am thinking of putting it up for sale.
I sold a TE610 to get my WR250R. Mostly because I ride with my wife a lot and the TE Was just over kill and I was always wanting to fly up ahead. If I could kept both, the TE Would definitely be my aggressive weekend play bike when I was riding with my faster buddies, but the WRR suits me pretty well.

The TE definitely is easier on the road running 70+. The TE is a monster off road and will absolutely fly, but I do think the WRR is easier to handle in most instances. I do think with different tires, you'd be happy with the front. Overall, it is a good handling bike.
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Old 02-28-2013, 07:06 PM   #33454
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Originally Posted by viper770 View Post
i use the flatland racing skid plate and i get alittle noise but not very much but ill do some thing about it one of these days
Is that the Wolfman Enduro bag on your bike? Looks good on there!
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Old 02-28-2013, 07:16 PM   #33455
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Originally Posted by Harcomo View Post
Is that the Wolfman Enduro bag on your bike? Looks good on there!
yes it is a Wolfman Enduro bag
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Old 02-28-2013, 08:49 PM   #33456
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Quote:
Originally Posted by henrymartin View Post
Given the condition of the maintenance items on my "new to me" bike...
Christ, we get it, your bike was owned by a moron.

You're clearly such an expert on bike maintenance I'd think you'd notice some of these items before buying...


Also, no reason to buy non-oem bearings. Ones that haven't been abused last 10s of thousands of miles.
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Old 03-01-2013, 06:11 AM   #33457
henrymartin
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Quote:
Originally Posted by z@ch View Post
Christ, we get it, your bike was owned by a moron.

You're clearly such an expert on bike maintenance I'd think you'd notice some of these items before buying...


Also, no reason to buy non-oem bearings. Ones that haven't been abused last 10s of thousands of miles.
How about a little easy on the keyboard. AFAIK, I haven't said anything to offend you.

I never said my bike was owned by a moron. I never said I was an expert at anything. I also never haven't seen the bike before it was delivered to me (gift from a spouse).

If I were buying it myself, I would have checked some things, like sprockets, wheel spin, et cetera.

So, forgive me if my desire to learn a few tricks from this forum disturbed your morning web browsing.

Geez, my posts on rebuilding old bikes have helped a few members along the way, so maybe I was hoping this forum would help me the same way.
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Old 03-01-2013, 06:55 AM   #33458
ggemelos
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Question Throttle cable housing question

I took apart my throttle cable housing to install a new throttle tube and Hot Grips heated grips. When opened the throttle cable housing, I noticed a black plastic disk on the throttle tube that slides off when you remove the old grips. I transferred the disk to the new throttle tube before mounting the new grips. Now that I want to put everything back together again, I am not sure if the black disk is meant to go inside the throttle cable housing or stay outside and act as a barrier between the rubber grip and the housing (maybe to avoid the rubber touching the housing and getting stuck?). The service manual does not mention this disk. Can anyone tell me if I should put the black plastic disk inside the housing or leave it outside between the housing and the grip? Thanks
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Old 03-01-2013, 07:17 AM   #33459
MeefZah
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Quote:
Originally Posted by z@ch View Post
Christ, we get it, your bike was owned by a moron.

You're clearly such an expert on bike maintenance I'd think you'd notice some of these items before buying...


Also, no reason to buy non-oem bearings. Ones that haven't been abused last 10s of thousands of miles.
What amuses me is that a lot of guys who are obsessive over maintenance usually have few miles; while guys that ride a lot tend to do what needs to be done in the interests of keeping on riding. Shit, I replace tires when cords are showing, the only time I even think about replacing a wheel bearing is when it goes out, and I usually lose a few teeth off my sprocket before I change that out. Swingarm bearings, what the fuck ever, x 21,000 miles now. I literally do not care - even though I love my bike.

Come to think of it, the guy that bought my 1st WRR later complained to me about the chain slider being half clapped out, missing bolts, gouged plastics, and a shagged chain and sprockets. He totally disassembled the swingarm and subframe and cleaned, greased, ejaculated, whatever it is those guys do... and he's since put about 800 miles on it in 2 years. I used to invite him to dirt rides until it became obvious he was never going to come because he might tweak some of the new bits he had put on and he was worried that water crossings would instantly cause his wheel bearings to seize.

You know what preventative maintenance I have done... I replaced the left side engine case after I holed it... and I didn't even change the oil; just topped it off. I guess I did also, a while back, replace the swingarm chain slider, but that was just to disprove a theory. I should put the old one back on and return the new one to Service Honda...
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Old 03-01-2013, 07:18 AM   #33460
MeefZah
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ggemelos View Post
I took apart my throttle cable housing to install a new throttle tube and Hot Grips heated grips. When opened the throttle cable housing, I noticed a black plastic disk on the throttle tube that slides off when you remove the old grips. I transferred the disk to the new throttle tube before mounting the new grips. Now that I want to put everything back together again, I am not sure if the black disk is meant to go inside the throttle cable housing or stay outside and act as a barrier between the rubber grip and the housing (maybe to avoid the rubber touching the housing and getting stuck?). The service manual does not mention this disk. Can anyone tell me if I should put the black plastic disk inside the housing or leave it outside between the housing and the grip? Thanks
It is external, you have it right. It is designed to minimize friction between the rubber grip and the plastic housing so the throttle doesn't get stuck open.
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Old 03-01-2013, 07:18 AM   #33461
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So I'm really torn between whether or not I should try and return the 120/100-18 knobby for a 100/100-18... some guys are saying big difference others are not...
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Old 03-01-2013, 07:20 AM   #33462
ggemelos
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MeefZah View Post
It is external, you have it right. It is designed to minimize friction between the rubber grip and the plastic housing so the throttle doesn't get stuck open.

Thanks, that makes sense, I just wanted to confirm.
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Old 03-01-2013, 07:45 AM   #33463
alansz400
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All this maintenance talk had me thinking maybe I should check my swingarm and linkage bearings so last night I took a look at all those bearings and they all look good. Cleaned then up alittle and put some new grease on them and dont plan on looking at them for another 15000 miles. My swingarm bolt also came out real easy. I never ride my WR in the water so that may be why everything was in good shape.
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Old 03-01-2013, 08:10 AM   #33464
AZ TOM
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Originally Posted by shep546 View Post
So I'm really torn between whether or not I should try and return the 120/100-18 knobby for a 100/100-18... some guys are saying big difference others are not...
Would you stop Just mount that 120 up & go out & ride
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Old 03-01-2013, 08:22 AM   #33465
shep546
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Originally Posted by AZ TOM View Post
Would you stop Just mount that 120 up & go out & ride
Got people on another forum telling me the 120 is too much for the 250... ahh well it's a $60 tire I'll go with it and see how it is
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