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Old 03-03-2013, 05:46 PM   #33541
ET-VT
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Quote:
Originally Posted by henrymartin View Post
14/52 sprocket combo installed today, and now my chain guard and chain guide interfere with the sprocket/chain.
Serious question: What's the point of this combo? It seems like you get the same ratio as a 13/47 and you have this bigger, more vulnerable rear sprocket that doesn't fit on the bike. Am I missing something?
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Old 03-03-2013, 05:55 PM   #33542
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ET-VT View Post
Serious question: What's the point of this combo? It seems like you get the same ratio as a 13/47 and you have this bigger, more vulnerable rear sprocket that doesn't fit on the bike. Am I missing something?
Going 14 on the front helps slow the wear on the swing arm seal guard.
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Old 03-03-2013, 06:55 PM   #33543
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ET-VT View Post
Serious question: What's the point of this combo? It seems like you get the same ratio as a 13/47 and you have this bigger, more vulnerable rear sprocket that doesn't fit on the bike. Am I missing something?
Quote:
Originally Posted by KansasBob
Going 14 on the front helps slow the wear on the swing arm seal guard.
+1 And that's what you been missing. Many threads on same
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Old 03-03-2013, 07:32 PM   #33544
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>"Are we talking Powerbomb or Megabomb here? "

I have a 'Powerbomb' header on mine. Apparently the 'Megabomb' header is supposed to produce more torque in the bottom end. (???)

Would be nice to try a "Megabomb", but I'm not ready to pony up the $$$.
Right now the bike is producing really nice power for a 250.
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Old 03-03-2013, 08:24 PM   #33545
henrymartin
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Originally Posted by pfy50 View Post
+1 And that's what you been missing. Many threads on same

That + the chain wear. Running the chain over 13T results in faster stretch rate than on the 14T. I took mine for a limited spin today (still a ton of snow on the ground) and the chain never seems to touch the lower part of the seal, which is where most wear occurs. It changes the geometry completely.

Also, I went to this setup from a stock ratio, and it made a huge difference in engine braking (in first gear) and the ability to crawl uphill without having to use the clutch.

A lot of the trails I ride are slow, changing terrain areas. On my KLR 250 which was geared way down, I would use second gear and crawl just above idle. That bike could do it all day. The WR has completely different power requirements and would not work for me in stock configuration. In a 20 mile loop around here, you hit everything from water to sand, with 6-8" round stones on ascends and descents, rock ledges, and deep mud holes. There are times when slow, strong first gear saves your ass.

I did not see that much difference on the pavement - it still goes faster than my old KLR250 and it wants to stand up in second gear, which the KLR never did.
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Old 03-04-2013, 06:34 AM   #33546
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Just wanted to say thanks to everyone for the chain and suspension help. I got my front forks adjusted yesterday, so now all my suspension is set up correctly I believe.

I also got my chain tightened. It seems to still be dug into the chain guard pretty good even though I've got it super tight. I hate to have the chain be any tighter than it already is though.
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Old 03-04-2013, 07:00 AM   #33547
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Quote:
Originally Posted by burtonrider3889 View Post
I also got my chain tightened. It seems to still be dug into the chain guard pretty good even though I've got it super tight. I hate to have the chain be any tighter than it already is though.
A tight chain is very bad for the chain slider as well as many other parts of the bike. Loose is better.
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Old 03-04-2013, 07:11 AM   #33548
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Old 03-04-2013, 07:19 AM   #33549
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Quote:
Originally Posted by duanew1 View Post
A tight chain is very bad for the chain slider as well as many other parts of the bike. Loose is better.
How much slack should there be? Any rule of thumb on how to tell?
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Old 03-04-2013, 08:30 AM   #33550
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Quote:
Originally Posted by burtonrider3889 View Post
How much slack should there be? Any rule of thumb on how to tell?






I can't tell if you're trolling for a big catch here, or serious...

You need to 1) download a WR250R Owner's Manual from the Yamaha website
2) sharpen your googling skills
3) Increase the drag on your reel, you're gonna hook a BEEG ONE.

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Old 03-04-2013, 08:51 AM   #33551
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Originally Posted by HardWorkingDog View Post






I can't tell if you're trolling for a big catch here, or serious...

You need to 1) download a WR250R Owner's Manual from the Yamaha website
2) sharpen your googling skills
3) Increase the drag on your reel, you're gonna hook a BEEG ONE.

I am dead serious. I have the manual, but I have also read on here that the manual is incorrect. I also wasn't sure how to put 11 pounds of pressure on the chain to see if it has the correct slack. It was confusing. Yes, I am a noob. I owned an SV for 3 years prior and that chain was very easy to maintain. No destroying swing arms and chain guards from just riding. I also youtubed to try and find a video for the WR chain.
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Old 03-04-2013, 09:35 AM   #33552
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Quote:
Originally Posted by burtonrider3889 View Post
I also wasn't sure how to put 11 pounds of pressure on the chain to see if it has the correct slack.
I rest my penis on it, but that technique may not work for everyone.
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Old 03-04-2013, 09:55 AM   #33553
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KansasBob View Post
Going 14 on the front helps slow the wear on the swing arm seal guard.
I have read everything I can find on the issue, and have not read a conclusion that the front sprocket is the cause. I can see how moving the chain away would be comforting, as it is logical.

I thought the general consensus is that the problem is likely caused by an improperly tensioned or kinked chain.

There are folks running a 12T front without swingarm damage, and folks running 13 and 14 fronts with swingarm damage.
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Old 03-04-2013, 09:59 AM   #33554
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Originally Posted by burtonrider3889 View Post
How much slack should there be? Any rule of thumb on how to tell?
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Old 03-04-2013, 11:56 AM   #33555
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Quote:
Originally Posted by burtonrider3889 View Post
I am dead serious...


OK, first rule is nobody on the thread knows what they're talking about, including me. You've got to figure what works best for you.

The whole chain tension thing is getting blown out of proportion. I've just read a ride report where a rider ate up his swingarm on a XR650L, it happens on KX450's, CRF's--it's just a product of poor maintenance. So, don't worry.

Then, Yamaha hasn't helped things either, by first using a force specification instead of length (yeah, it's more accurate but who's got a tension gauge???) and THEN issuing a revised spec THAT HAS A WRONG CONVERSION UNIT.

The bulletin quoted above states "36 lbf"--the unit is a kind of obscure measurement of force called pound-force and the number is wrong. It should be "11 pounds-force" as the Owners Manual states:
3. Push on the drivechain at the center point between the chain tensioner and the chain support mounting bolt with a force of 50 N (5.0 kgf, 11 lbf).
50 N = 5.0 kg-force = 11.2 pound-force

Have no clue where 36 came from in that bulletin, but it should be considered a typographic error.

(To confuse things even more, my 2010 Service Manual states "with a force of 50 N (5.0 kgf, 36 lbf)." Do the conversions yourself and see what you come up with.)

You can find a tension gauge here, or just push down on a bathroom scale to get a feel for 11 pounds-force on your fingers, then go out to your WRR, put it in neutral, on its sidestand, and push up on the lower chain at the center point between chain roller and chain support and make sure there's a half inch of clearance. If less, move the axle forward, if more move the axle rearward.

Keep an eye on the seal guard--you'll probably have to remove the front sprocket cover to see in there--and make sure the guard hasn't worn through.

Too loose can be a problem as can too tight. Kinked chain can be a problem as well. If you see links kinked, replace the chain. Lube it regularly, keep the tension adjusted as above, and ride like mad.

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