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Old 03-07-2013, 08:27 PM   #33631
Mr. Fisherman
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Quote:
Originally Posted by UtahFox View Post
I'm still deciding on what to do about mirrors. I put fat bars on so will most likely be going with HDB handguards, so I'm considering those too. The jury is out, so to speak. Can I screw a ram ball into the OEM mirror mounts?
Yes, they have all the parts needed.

Quote:
Originally Posted by HardWorkingDog View Post
and thanks for NOT quoting the goddam photos for the zillionth time...


-Cranky
D'oh! I usually am cranky about that too but it just looked so much better...
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Old 03-07-2013, 08:55 PM   #33632
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>BTW: I did the resistor jump, worked fine, no error code.
Then I did the pre-made jumper which has a bit more electronics in it.
I "felt" that the jumper made a bit of difference... but heck... dunno.
Would be nice to perform that test on a dyno."

>> "What?"

Eh?

Unplugging the exup module will throw an error code on the computer. If you then install a resistor in between 2 pins on the exup plug (the one that remains on the bike), it won't throw an error code. Did that... and it worked, no exup... and no error code.

But there are others guys out there that say the WRR computer wants some other signals back from the exup module.
Putting a resistor in there defeats error code, but doesn't supply all the voltages back to the computer.

So, somebody figured it out and supplied logic for a module with 3 or 4 diodes etc... or you can build one or buy an exup
end plate pre-made. At any rate, I purchased a pre-made module.

I think (well, my ass does anyway) that having the module on the exup made a difference in the output of the engine.
It would be nice to dyno the engine between resistor and 'custom module' and really see what happens.
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TwilightZone screwed with this post 03-07-2013 at 09:14 PM
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Old 03-07-2013, 09:10 PM   #33633
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>"I am just curious if anyone can let me know what the benefit is vs. just leaving it alone. Thanks"

Airbox mods (not much change)
Air injection module removal (not much change)

However, the first 2 plus the following:

Q4 Pipe (big change)
Fuel Controller (big change)
Header (big change)
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Old 03-07-2013, 11:20 PM   #33634
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TwilightZone View Post
>"I am just curious if anyone can let me know what the benefit is vs. just leaving it alone. Thanks"

Airbox mods (not much change)
Air injection module removal (not much change)

However, the first 2 plus the following:

Q4 Pipe (big change)
Fuel Controller (big change)
Header (big change)
On many other bikes, the pipe / controller / header also result in a significant reduction in fuel economy, because the engine is now making more power and not running lean anywhere in the rpm range. Is that also the case here? If so, how much loss? I'm trying to balance horsepower increases with decreased overall range of travel - which will help me select the right size aftermarket gas tank.
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Old 03-08-2013, 06:10 AM   #33635
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Quote:
Originally Posted by UtahFox View Post
I'm still deciding on what to do about mirrors. I put fat bars on so will most likely be going with HDB handguards, so I'm considering those too. The jury is out, so to speak. Can I screw a ram ball into the OEM mirror mounts?
The OEM mirror mounts are reverse threaded, at least I know that is the case for the throttle side. I would assume the clutch side if the same. That might make it hard to get a ram ball in there. I tried to find a bolt to plug the mirror hole on the throttle side and had a hard time because of the reverse thread. I ended up getting a Yamaha plug.
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Old 03-08-2013, 06:17 AM   #33636
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Quote:
Originally Posted by UtahFox View Post
I'm still deciding on what to do about mirrors. I put fat bars on so will most likely be going with HDB handguards, so I'm considering those too. The jury is out, so to speak. Can I screw a ram ball into the OEM mirror mounts?
If I were going with HDB guards I'd use their mirrors that nest inside the guards. Otherwise, I have and really like these.
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Old 03-08-2013, 06:30 AM   #33637
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Quote:
Originally Posted by UtahFox View Post
I'm still deciding on what to do about mirrors. I put fat bars on so will most likely be going with HDB handguards, so I'm considering those too. The jury is out, so to speak. Can I screw a ram ball into the OEM mirror mounts?
Just take the adapter off with the mirror on the clutch side and screw a Ram Ball directly into the perch. Leave the adapter on the throttle side and screw directly into it. I use Double Take mirrors with Ram Ball/ 3" extensions...no more broken mirrors.
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Old 03-08-2013, 08:15 AM   #33638
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AIS, airbox, EXUP

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Originally Posted by lammy View Post
Hey there, I have been riding my WR for about a year now on and off the black top and I have been seeing the mods to eliminate the AIS and the airbox flapper. I am capable of doing it, but I am having a hard time finding why it is done and what the benefit is. Will doing these mods increase power or performance? If I do them will it effect any other portions of the bike?

I am just curious if anyone can let me know what the benefit is vs. just leaving it alone. Thanks
I'd add to that list the EXUP. Has anyone figured out what the purpose is, and what the effect is of removing it, or blocking it open? I've read that it's supposed to close down at low rpm & increase the torque, [ http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/EXUP ] but I've also read that it doesn't close at low rpm, it closes at high RPM.
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Old 03-08-2013, 08:37 AM   #33639
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>"the rpm range. Is that also the case here? If so, how much (mileage)loss?"

It really depends on your right-hand wrist. Mileages below are with airbox mod, fuel controller, Q4 pipe (air and exup removed).

In Baja I took it very 'easy' on a 'long-fuel' highway run, I figure at least 68 mpg. (168 miles with no fuel light on!)
Normal dualsport riding, about 60 mpg. (150 miles fuel light on)
Really opening it up... probably 55 mpg.

Dualsport... my 3.1 gallon tank lasts about 180 miles... till dry.
Low fuel warning comes on with about .6 gal left in the tank.
(run till dry = don't want to do that, kills fuel pump)
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Old 03-08-2013, 08:44 AM   #33640
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Safari tank installation question

I just ordered a transparent Safari tank for my wrr and after reading a few of the installation instructions, I had a question. Many people advise rinsing out the tank before installing. The instruction from Safari even suggest using some fuel to do this. How do you rinse out the tank with fuel before installing the fuel pump? Does anyone use a different method to rinse the tank out? Thanks
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Old 03-08-2013, 08:45 AM   #33641
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>"I'd add to that list the EXUP. Has anyone figured out what the purpose is, and what the effect is of removing it, or blocking it open? I've read that it's supposed to close down at low rpm & increase the torque, but I've also read that it doesn't close at low rpm, it closes at high RPM. "

EXUP valve closes at low rpm. The computer controls a servo valve that connects via cables to the EXUP valve. Increases back pressure in the exhaust = better torque down low. Same thing that the 'Megabomb', 'Powerbomb' and 'Graves' headers do via chambers.

I believe that disconnecting the EXUP servo allows the EXUP valve to remain open. Some people have also removed the EXUP valve from the stock exhaust, which requires metalworking skills.
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Old 03-08-2013, 08:49 AM   #33642
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>"How do you rinse out the tank with fuel before installing the fuel pump?"

Blow the tank out with air (if you have it). Then rinse the tank a couple times with a cup of fuel and dump it out. This removes plastic shavings in the tank that clog up fuel pump (or carb).
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Old 03-08-2013, 08:56 AM   #33643
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ggemelos View Post
I just ordered a transparent Safari tank for my wrr and after reading a few of the installation instructions, I had a question. Many people advise rinsing out the tank before installing. The instruction from Safari even suggest using some fuel to do this. How do you rinse out the tank with fuel before installing the fuel pump? Does anyone use a different method to rinse the tank out? Thanks
I use air, water and time. I left the tank cradled upside down with the cap area open to aid venting. It was completely dry the next morning. Did this for my KLR 6.6 gallon tank and will again for the 3 gallon IMS for the WR. Simple and effective if you have the overnight time.
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Old 03-08-2013, 09:06 AM   #33644
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Originally Posted by AdvRich View Post
I use air, water and time. I left the tank cradled upside down with the cap area open to aid venting. It was completely dry the next morning. Did this for my KLR 6.6 gallon tank and will again for the 3 gallon IMS for the WR. Simple and effective if you have the overnight time.
I have always done mine with water as well.
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Old 03-08-2013, 10:30 AM   #33645
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New shoes for spring, pirelli mt21 front and kenda trakmaster rear.

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