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Old 04-02-2013, 08:20 PM   #34411
what broke now
Petroleum Brother
 
Joined: Jul 2011
Location: seattle
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@manfromthestix:

Cool place to live. That bike is going to serve well in there.

You and I batted a few posts back and forth a while ago when you were also considering a plated wr450f, what convinced you to go wrr?
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Old 04-02-2013, 09:17 PM   #34412
DaymienRules
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It might have been cheaper for Yamaha to use the wrf shock, swingarm, and wheel. The tooling and parts are already in place. But I do respect the fact that they toyed with the geometry to make a more stable dual sport, requiring new parts. My issue is the use of some randomly sourced shock that seems to be a price leader, without the same attention to detail found on the rest of the bike. The linkage,weight of the bike, and intended use require that the rear spring be overly stiff, compared to even a supercross setup. The valving, in my opinion, is pretty far off. There's what, like 20 clicks of adjustment on the rear rebound? If the max setting is inadequate, what are the rest of them for?
While not as bad, I find the compression off as well. A spirited pace on terrain above a fsr, and the back end bounces off the bump stop. And I'm 150 lbs. I get that they had to cut corners somewhere to make a price point, and believe me I'm so glad they did it in the shock and handle bars instead of the brakes/engine/gearbox/stator/frame/technology which are not so easily fixed. The bike is so close though, and suspension is usually a personal setup. But everyone that complains seems to have the same problem which can be resolved with better overall shim stack. I don't want a wrf, I want a dual sport with wrf suspension, and it seems the only one who wants to make that is KTM. For almost double the price.
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Old 04-02-2013, 10:21 PM   #34413
Just Bob
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ET-VT View Post
I think the guys that offer their services as suspension gurus at track days are generally a little below people offering to "do your colors" at the mall.
Unless you spend the day with someone like Dave Moss of Catalyst Reaction. When you discover that a single turn of pre-load is the difference between running wide and finishing the turn easily hard on it you become a believer. Very small adjustments have huge effects. While I won't vouch for the "gurus" I don't think you should steer folks here away from suspension experts. It took me years to learn how to dial in a bike. It would have taken a lot longer without expert help.

Disclaimer.... I'm running stock forks and shock on my WR. At 138lbs bare-ass-naked it works just fine - with the shock rebound at full in. Yes it could be better, but not enough for what it would cost. My last dirt ride was a YZ250 with Race Tech all around, including nitrite coated lowers. Yes it was a better ride, but not by that much money difference.

Out of the box, the stock WR is a really good machine.
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Old 04-03-2013, 02:38 AM   #34414
manfromthestix
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Location: Lexington, Virginia
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Quote:
Originally Posted by what broke now View Post
@manfromthestix:

Cool place to live. That bike is going to serve well in there.

You and I batted a few posts back and forth a while ago when you were also considering a plated wr450f, what convinced you to go wrr?
Hey, what broke now! Hope all is well with you. After much debate and exploration, I decided my desire for superior horsepower was misplaced because every 450 or 500 I looked at (Kawasaki, Honda, Yammie, KTM, etc.) was just too ferking tall for me. I'm 5'9" on a good day and even with a few simple lowering mods the 450s seemed too tall. I like the brutal power, love the beefier suspension, etc., but in the end I felt I didn't need it after all when I considered that I was uncomfortable sitting the bike. The cost and trouble of making the 450 street legal played a minor role, as did the cost being significantly higher than the 250 class bikes. I wanted a more dirt oriented dual sport and would appreciate the additional power, but it just wasn't worth it to me in the end. Also, I kind of fell into a smoking deal on a pristine WR250R that was already set up nicely (IMS tank, bark busters, power outlet, skid plate, rad guard, YamaLink, etc. plus all the stock parts and some additional spares for well below book value) so that sealed the deal. I think if I still lived in Wyoming or someplace with endless off-road areas to ride I would have stayed focused on the 450, but here in Virginia true off-road opportunities are not all that common, it's more ratty asphalt and decent dirt roads with some occassional rugged two-tracks. The 250 is great for this.

I'm very happy with the little 250, it's spunky enough to allow me to go faster than I should in all conditions , light, the right height now, very good price, and runs like a top. I'll ride it and enjoy it, then if the power thing becomes an issue I'll sell this one and get to shop for another bike!

Take care!

Doug
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manfromthestix screwed with this post 04-03-2013 at 04:06 AM
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Old 04-03-2013, 10:31 AM   #34415
UtahFox
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Location: Salt Lake City
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Just Bob View Post
Disclaimer.... I'm running stock forks and shock on my WR. At 138lbs bare-ass-naked it works just fine - with the shock rebound at full in. Yes it could be better, but not enough for what it would cost. My last dirt ride was a YZ250 with Race Tech all around, including nitrite coated lowers. Yes it was a better ride, but not by that much money difference.

Out of the box, the stock WR is a really good machine.
We're pretty similar weight, so your shock's rebound setting may be a good starting point for me. For clarity, when you say you have the rebound @ full in, you're saying all the way clockwise?

Dave
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Old 04-03-2013, 10:32 AM   #34416
Cowgirl
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Location: Back to the Island, Sidney, BC
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Me and my new to me WRR in Death Valley. Bone stock except for having the seat cut down. Oh, and Jimmy Lewis adjusted my suspension
I had a riot! I rode a WRX for a year both off-road and at the sumo track and this is even better



Oops, just realized I did put fat bars, skid plate, mirrors and hand guards on it. No performance mods yet.
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Old 04-03-2013, 10:41 AM   #34417
shep546
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Location: Halifax, Nova Scotia Canada
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Wicked pic... I didn't notice the backround at first
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Old 04-03-2013, 10:53 AM   #34418
what broke now
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"Me and my new to me WRR in Death Valley."

Nice work if you can get it!

What did the esteemed Mr Lewis end up with on the suspension settings?
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Old 04-03-2013, 12:55 PM   #34419
shep546
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Location: Halifax, Nova Scotia Canada
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omg what a headche I just had doing a simple oil change...

See a guide online that says you can do it with the bike on the kickstand so I warm it open, drain it, pop the filter out take the new one out of the box... it looked slightly different, it didn't have the rubber gaskets on each end so I call my shop and get them to double check the stock code... yup they gave me the wrong damn filter...

Drive all the way back to the shop to exchange the filter... somehow they dont have mine in stock so I drive all the way to another shop to get it.

Come home, drop the filter in... torque everything down... add 1.3L... nothing in the sight gauge... add another 100ml... nothing...

Now I'm thinking this is odd... add another 100ml and another until I'm up to 1600ml at least... let it run a bit... still nothing.

So I throw the bike on a stand to level it out, by the time I look to the gauge it is way passed full.

So now I'm thinking shit... I had to drain out the new oil and plug it over and over right now I got it in between the lines on the gauge while the bike is center and the oil is hot... is this how it should be?
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Old 04-03-2013, 01:18 PM   #34420
ET-VT
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Location: Southern Vermont
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You can change it on the sidestand, but you need to hold it upright to read the gauge. From the manual, page 6-9...

Quote:
To check the engine oil level
1. Place the vehicle on a level surface
and hold it in an upright position.

NOTE:
Make sure that the vehicle is positioned
straight up when checking the oil level.
A slight tilt to the side can result in a
false reading.

2. Start the engine, warm it up for
several minutes, and then turn it
off.

3. Wait a few minutes until the oil settles,
and then check the oil level
through the check window located
at the bottom-right side of the
crankcase.
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Old 04-03-2013, 01:18 PM   #34421
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That sight gauge is not really much of a gauge at all. I don't use it as a dipstick so much as a way to see that yes, there is oil in there, and no, its not milky from coolant.

If you drain all the oil that will come out, pour 1.4l of oil into the bike, and it doesn't leak out somewhere, then just assume you're ok.
*edit:i don't use the kickstand, i lean it against the wall. More oil comes out, and it doesn't make a mess on the skidplate.
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Old 04-03-2013, 04:28 PM   #34422
ecarnell
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GL mounting?

Test fitted my new GL coyote bag - question to people that have mounted these onthe WR - how to you attach the rear strap? around the tail section or try and clip onto the fender?

Did I mount the rear bag correctly?

Pics would be appreciated.....

Also - do you need the supplied heat guard - or is the standard stock guard enough to keep the bag from melting?

I'm going to mount some eyelets on the old rear peg location to hold those straps down.

Thanks - Eric


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Old 04-03-2013, 04:35 PM   #34423
Just Bob
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Quote:
Originally Posted by UtahFox View Post
We're pretty similar weight, so your shock's rebound setting may be a good starting point for me. For clarity, when you say you have the rebound @ full in, you're saying all the way clockwise?

Dave
Yes. I think maybe one or two clicks out of maximum. But yours may vary as quality control seems to be an issue.

Loosen it (the rebound clicker) all the way and push down hard on your seat. The rear will pop up and kind of pogo up and down. Tighten it all the way and push down again. The rear should come up real slow. Loosen it out until the back comes up without any pogo affect and not too slow. Play with it and it'll make sense. Set your compression rebound first. It will affect the rebound setting.
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Old 04-03-2013, 04:49 PM   #34424
Scott_PDX
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Location: Portland...the newer one on the left side.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ecarnell View Post
Test fitted my new GL coyote bag - question to people that have mounted these onthe WR - how to you attach the rear strap? around the tail section or try and clip onto the fender?

Did I mount the rear bag correctly?

Pics would be appreciated.....

Also - do you need the supplied heat guard - or is the standard stock guard enough to keep the bag from melting?

I'm going to mount some eyelets on the old rear peg location to hold those straps down.

Thanks - Eric

Looks good to me. On my WR I have a rear rack (Pro Moto Billet) and wrap the rear strap through that. On my KTM I use the supplie fender hooks and that works well, should be the same on your WR.

You're existing heat sheild will work fine, but it's going to scratch the shit outta it. You might try some of that 3M cleary vinyl protector or live with it. My solution was to add a MoJavi bag when I don't need the Coyote (hides the scratches). Keep the heat sheild in case you go with an aftermarket exhaust (I did and it works great on there).

Personally I kept the foot pegs on the bike. A good buddy of mine set me straight with "You never know when you might need to haul someone injured out of the woods on the back of your bike". They also make good tie down spots. A few pages back I saw some guy had replaced them with Eye Bolts, that looked cleaner if you dont' want to keep the footpegs.
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Old 04-03-2013, 05:08 PM   #34425
KansasBob
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Quote:
Originally Posted by UtahFox View Post
We're pretty similar weight, so your shock's rebound setting may be a good starting point for me. For clarity, when you say you have the rebound @ full in, you're saying all the way clockwise?

Dave
Quote:
Originally Posted by Just Bob View Post
Yes. I think maybe one or two clicks out of maximum. But yours may vary as quality control seems to be an issue.

Loosen it (the rebound clicker) all the way and push down hard on your seat. The rear will pop up and kind of pogo up and down. Tighten it all the way and push down again. The rear should come up real slow. Loosen it out until the back comes up without any pogo affect and not too slow. Play with it and it'll make sense. Set your compression rebound first. It will affect the rebound setting.
Yes all the way clockwise till it "seats"... don't force it. Manual says 3 clicks from seated (counter clockwise) is the maximum rebound setting. I run 3 clicks out.
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