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Old 04-02-2013, 06:13 PM   #34411
BlueLghtning
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Joined: Feb 2004
Location: Newnan, GA
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Installed my IMS 4.75 gallon fuel tank

I had originally planned on installing my IMS 4.75 tank a few weekends back and in fact had the original tank off and all apart before I actually went to go pick up the tank from a buddy that ordered it from IMS for me. Only problem is when I went to pick up the tank, we realized all they sent was the tank. No fuel cap, no replacement gasket seal for the fuel pump, no vacuum lines, etc. I could have made do without everything except the gasket, but running short on time for my upcoming ride that weekend and needing to get the bike back together, I was forced to put the stock tank back on and go through the pain of carrying an extra gallon fuel can for that ride.

IMS immediately dropped shipped the stuff they forgot directly to me when we contacted them about it, but it came Sat and I had left Friday to go to my ride.

So I finally got a chance tonight to install the tank tonight. It was much easier the 2nd time around removing the stock tank and knowing how to disconnect the fuel lines and actually remembering this time to pay attention to the fuel pump and which way it was facing (fuel outlet faces towards the front of the bike BTW). I moved the fuel pump over to the new tank with the new gasket and then a did a leak test and was glad to see nothing coming out. Since my bike has some of the common mods done, I didn't have a veccum line to tie into with the "T" they provide, but good thing is that doing the mods, leaves you with a "capped" off vacuum port on the throttle body that you can easily connect to and no "T" needed. I borrowed my wife and her small hands to reach down there and get that connected and then put a zip tie on it to make sure it wasn't going anywhere.

I was torn between the natural tank being able to see the fuel and the Blue tank to match the bike, but in the end I went with the blue. We have a lot of GA red clay and after owning a white Safari tank on my Husky TE610, I was tired of trying to keep the tank looking clean. I'm sure the blue will do a better job of resisting staining from the GA red clay.

Overall I'm in heaven knowing I have 4.75gals on board. I absolutely hated the stock 2gal tank and always having to look for fuel. My Husky had the 6.6gal Safari tank and I loved that thing.

The 4.75gals will definitely work well for my trip out West this summer to ride the COBDR and UTBDR.
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Old 04-02-2013, 06:31 PM   #34412
manfromthestix
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Location: Lexington, Virginia
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Well, back to the original intent of this thread - celebrating a very good small dualsport bike that is as fun as it is affordable!

I just got a WR250R two weeks ago and have finally gotten the time to lower it to fit me (Yamalink and raise fork tubes, adjust rear shock) so that I felt comfy riding it off-road. I've owned a lot of DS bikes in the past and the WR is better than any of them for this 50/50 stuff I plan to do with it. I took it out into the pasture to ride fast through the grass and swales, it was FANTASTIC! The girls weren't sure what to think about their new stable-mate:



They ran around with me for a few minutes, but the WR was too fast for them to keep up; after all, I've got 25 HP to their one .

Then I rode up onto our land above the house to see how the bike handles a rocky, rutted access road, NO PROBLEM, even including riding over/around a couple of small trees that fell across the road (but I discovered I need to adjust the rebound and damping - I'm 30 pounds heavier than the PO and it's set pretty soft). View from the top, back down toward the house - all that in the background is National Forest waiting to be explored, woot!



It appears that my neighbor has set up a deer hunting tree stand about five feet inside his property line. Hmmmm, guaging from the location and orientation I'd say the bass turd is hunting our land as well as his. View from our land onto his:



From his stand toward our land:



I wonder which direction offers the best shooting alleys for him??? I even found a couple of beer cans on our side. . I guess I'll be riding over to talk to the soon.

Anyway, after a quick off-road jaunt I suited up and headed for town to meet my wife for dinner. It was only 48 degrees here this afternoon, so it was a bit chilly and about halfway to town (a 25 mile round-trip) I was wishing for my 1150GS with the better wind protection and heated grips, but the little WR was handling GREAT! I've owned a number of 250s and this thing outshines them all for running the pace on the highway! I do have to admit that the GS is more stable at 89 MPH than the WR250 , not to mention better wind/weather protection. I know I shouldn't speed like that but I couldn't help myself. I ran out of straight road at 89 indicated and it was still pulling strong but getting a bit squirrelly for my liking. Maybe it was the knobbies or the strong cross-wind.

Hmmm, if I put a pipe on it, a windscreen, heated grips, some hard luggage, bore it out, hop it up, mod the piss out of it ... Nah, I've already got a Big Pig.

I REALLY like this bike so far and it's just fine in it's stock configuration for now. It's everything I'd hoped for after looking for one for over a year, now all I need is some time and decent weather!

Doug
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Old 04-02-2013, 07:10 PM   #34413
SkidMarx
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sieg View Post
First: I know they aint the same bike and are far from it.
Second: I know they are trimming cost.
Third: I do have a WRF.
My point is that the shock is valved poorly for any purpose (hell, Ive had HDs that had more rebound damping) and they have the knowledge and ability to valve it better, for pennies.
1. What I meant that even though they have good parts, they don't fit so changing them wouldn't be cost effective.
2. At least they skimped on something fixable.
3. No wonder you hate the shock so much. I came off of a XT350. and that shock is a whole other level of suckage. I rode the bike for a year with the stock suspension. It worked well for light duty offroad and street.
Exactly what a dual sport is supposed to do.
When I decided I wanted it to do better offroad, I got it revalved. Problem solved.
Don't forget, The bike was released in Japan first. They set the suspension up for that market. Not ours.
Pennies add up. It would cost them pennies to put a little more grease on the steering stem, but they don't do that either.
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Old 04-02-2013, 08:20 PM   #34414
what broke now
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@manfromthestix:

Cool place to live. That bike is going to serve well in there.

You and I batted a few posts back and forth a while ago when you were also considering a plated wr450f, what convinced you to go wrr?
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Old 04-02-2013, 09:17 PM   #34415
DaymienRules
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It might have been cheaper for Yamaha to use the wrf shock, swingarm, and wheel. The tooling and parts are already in place. But I do respect the fact that they toyed with the geometry to make a more stable dual sport, requiring new parts. My issue is the use of some randomly sourced shock that seems to be a price leader, without the same attention to detail found on the rest of the bike. The linkage,weight of the bike, and intended use require that the rear spring be overly stiff, compared to even a supercross setup. The valving, in my opinion, is pretty far off. There's what, like 20 clicks of adjustment on the rear rebound? If the max setting is inadequate, what are the rest of them for?
While not as bad, I find the compression off as well. A spirited pace on terrain above a fsr, and the back end bounces off the bump stop. And I'm 150 lbs. I get that they had to cut corners somewhere to make a price point, and believe me I'm so glad they did it in the shock and handle bars instead of the brakes/engine/gearbox/stator/frame/technology which are not so easily fixed. The bike is so close though, and suspension is usually a personal setup. But everyone that complains seems to have the same problem which can be resolved with better overall shim stack. I don't want a wrf, I want a dual sport with wrf suspension, and it seems the only one who wants to make that is KTM. For almost double the price.
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Old 04-02-2013, 10:21 PM   #34416
Just Bob
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ET-VT View Post
I think the guys that offer their services as suspension gurus at track days are generally a little below people offering to "do your colors" at the mall.
Unless you spend the day with someone like Dave Moss of Catalyst Reaction. When you discover that a single turn of pre-load is the difference between running wide and finishing the turn easily hard on it you become a believer. Very small adjustments have huge effects. While I won't vouch for the "gurus" I don't think you should steer folks here away from suspension experts. It took me years to learn how to dial in a bike. It would have taken a lot longer without expert help.

Disclaimer.... I'm running stock forks and shock on my WR. At 138lbs bare-ass-naked it works just fine - with the shock rebound at full in. Yes it could be better, but not enough for what it would cost. My last dirt ride was a YZ250 with Race Tech all around, including nitrite coated lowers. Yes it was a better ride, but not by that much money difference.

Out of the box, the stock WR is a really good machine.
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Old 04-03-2013, 02:38 AM   #34417
manfromthestix
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Quote:
Originally Posted by what broke now View Post
@manfromthestix:

Cool place to live. That bike is going to serve well in there.

You and I batted a few posts back and forth a while ago when you were also considering a plated wr450f, what convinced you to go wrr?
Hey, what broke now! Hope all is well with you. After much debate and exploration, I decided my desire for superior horsepower was misplaced because every 450 or 500 I looked at (Kawasaki, Honda, Yammie, KTM, etc.) was just too ferking tall for me. I'm 5'9" on a good day and even with a few simple lowering mods the 450s seemed too tall. I like the brutal power, love the beefier suspension, etc., but in the end I felt I didn't need it after all when I considered that I was uncomfortable sitting the bike. The cost and trouble of making the 450 street legal played a minor role, as did the cost being significantly higher than the 250 class bikes. I wanted a more dirt oriented dual sport and would appreciate the additional power, but it just wasn't worth it to me in the end. Also, I kind of fell into a smoking deal on a pristine WR250R that was already set up nicely (IMS tank, bark busters, power outlet, skid plate, rad guard, YamaLink, etc. plus all the stock parts and some additional spares for well below book value) so that sealed the deal. I think if I still lived in Wyoming or someplace with endless off-road areas to ride I would have stayed focused on the 450, but here in Virginia true off-road opportunities are not all that common, it's more ratty asphalt and decent dirt roads with some occassional rugged two-tracks. The 250 is great for this.

I'm very happy with the little 250, it's spunky enough to allow me to go faster than I should in all conditions , light, the right height now, very good price, and runs like a top. I'll ride it and enjoy it, then if the power thing becomes an issue I'll sell this one and get to shop for another bike!

Take care!

Doug
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manfromthestix screwed with this post 04-03-2013 at 04:06 AM
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Old 04-03-2013, 10:31 AM   #34418
UtahFox
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Just Bob View Post
Disclaimer.... I'm running stock forks and shock on my WR. At 138lbs bare-ass-naked it works just fine - with the shock rebound at full in. Yes it could be better, but not enough for what it would cost. My last dirt ride was a YZ250 with Race Tech all around, including nitrite coated lowers. Yes it was a better ride, but not by that much money difference.

Out of the box, the stock WR is a really good machine.
We're pretty similar weight, so your shock's rebound setting may be a good starting point for me. For clarity, when you say you have the rebound @ full in, you're saying all the way clockwise?

Dave
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Old 04-03-2013, 10:32 AM   #34419
Cowgirl
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Me and my new to me WRR in Death Valley. Bone stock except for having the seat cut down. Oh, and Jimmy Lewis adjusted my suspension
I had a riot! I rode a WRX for a year both off-road and at the sumo track and this is even better



Oops, just realized I did put fat bars, skid plate, mirrors and hand guards on it. No performance mods yet.
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Old 04-03-2013, 10:41 AM   #34420
shep546
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Location: Halifax, Nova Scotia Canada
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Wicked pic... I didn't notice the backround at first
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Old 04-03-2013, 10:53 AM   #34421
what broke now
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"Me and my new to me WRR in Death Valley."

Nice work if you can get it!

What did the esteemed Mr Lewis end up with on the suspension settings?
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Old 04-03-2013, 12:55 PM   #34422
shep546
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omg what a headche I just had doing a simple oil change...

See a guide online that says you can do it with the bike on the kickstand so I warm it open, drain it, pop the filter out take the new one out of the box... it looked slightly different, it didn't have the rubber gaskets on each end so I call my shop and get them to double check the stock code... yup they gave me the wrong damn filter...

Drive all the way back to the shop to exchange the filter... somehow they dont have mine in stock so I drive all the way to another shop to get it.

Come home, drop the filter in... torque everything down... add 1.3L... nothing in the sight gauge... add another 100ml... nothing...

Now I'm thinking this is odd... add another 100ml and another until I'm up to 1600ml at least... let it run a bit... still nothing.

So I throw the bike on a stand to level it out, by the time I look to the gauge it is way passed full.

So now I'm thinking shit... I had to drain out the new oil and plug it over and over right now I got it in between the lines on the gauge while the bike is center and the oil is hot... is this how it should be?
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Old 04-03-2013, 01:18 PM   #34423
ET-VT
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You can change it on the sidestand, but you need to hold it upright to read the gauge. From the manual, page 6-9...

Quote:
To check the engine oil level
1. Place the vehicle on a level surface
and hold it in an upright position.

NOTE:
Make sure that the vehicle is positioned
straight up when checking the oil level.
A slight tilt to the side can result in a
false reading.

2. Start the engine, warm it up for
several minutes, and then turn it
off.

3. Wait a few minutes until the oil settles,
and then check the oil level
through the check window located
at the bottom-right side of the
crankcase.
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Old 04-03-2013, 01:18 PM   #34424
DaymienRules
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That sight gauge is not really much of a gauge at all. I don't use it as a dipstick so much as a way to see that yes, there is oil in there, and no, its not milky from coolant.

If you drain all the oil that will come out, pour 1.4l of oil into the bike, and it doesn't leak out somewhere, then just assume you're ok.
*edit:i don't use the kickstand, i lean it against the wall. More oil comes out, and it doesn't make a mess on the skidplate.
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Old 04-03-2013, 04:28 PM   #34425
ecarnell
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GL mounting?

Test fitted my new GL coyote bag - question to people that have mounted these onthe WR - how to you attach the rear strap? around the tail section or try and clip onto the fender?

Did I mount the rear bag correctly?

Pics would be appreciated.....

Also - do you need the supplied heat guard - or is the standard stock guard enough to keep the bag from melting?

I'm going to mount some eyelets on the old rear peg location to hold those straps down.

Thanks - Eric


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