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Old 04-26-2013, 04:22 PM   #35056
indypup
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Joined: Apr 2010
Location: Troy, OHIO
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TwilightZone View Post
>"I'll agree with you there. I stuck a long screw driver down in from the top and pushed on the guide to get the tensioner to pop out and apply tension. Every time I tried to do it like the manual says it would jump time and not pop out. "

I tried the 'screwdriver' method for about an hour. No success.
Then I got my son to hold the timing chain on the top sprockets while I turned the engine. At that point... victory.
It's definitely a PITA!
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Old 04-26-2013, 05:10 PM   #35057
what broke now
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Joined: Jul 2011
Location: seattle
Oddometer: 1,149
Quote:
Originally Posted by DNF View Post
Rim locks yes or no?

About to replace stock tires with some Mitos.

20 % street
70% fireroad/trail
10% single/gnarly

Kootenays so 20% mud, almost no sand.
Good time to do it if you are changing tires. lets you run flat for a while and run at low pressures [<10psi] and keep the tire in place. They will pay off on the 10% gnarly you list, but if you're like a lot of people, the 10% will increase to 40 or greater, esp. where you live. The rims are already drilled, as you prob noticed.

Another trick to get you out of the woods with a flat is carry some big zipties and lace them thru the spokes around the tire in several places.
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Old 04-26-2013, 05:26 PM   #35058
bogboy
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Location: Westford, Ma.
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Now that the weather is good , I've been out having a blast. A couple of times I've winded the engine out. I only have 2500 miles and wanted to start checking out peak power. I noticed when its probably near redline it acts a bit weird like there is some kind of governor in the software to lower throttle response like an engine brake or something. It feels like fuel is being cut back. It seems to kick on right away. Very strange.

Anyone ever notice this?
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Old 04-26-2013, 06:03 PM   #35059
jkstehn
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Location: Kent, WA
Oddometer: 89
Quote:
Originally Posted by bogboy View Post
Now that the weather is good , I've been out having a blast. A couple of times I've winded the engine out. I only have 2500 miles and wanted to start checking out peak power. I noticed when its probably near redline it acts a bit weird like there is some kind of governor in the software to lower throttle response like an engine brake or something. It feels like fuel is being cut back. It seems to kick on right away. Very strange.

Anyone ever notice this?
It is an electronic rev limiter. Just have to learn the sound of being almost to that RPM

Sent from my SCH-I605 using Tapatalk 2
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Old 04-26-2013, 06:54 PM   #35060
Bogus Jim
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Location: Black Hills, South Dakota
Oddometer: 95
Quote:
Originally Posted by WeazyBuddha View Post
Re: cam chain tensioner, what was the way that worked?
I used indypup's method - long screwdriver. Don't insert the screwdriver into the engine too far; that will reduce your leverage. Just put the blade near the top of the chain guide and push it towards the rear of the engine, the tensioner should pop right out.

For locking the tensioner plunger into the body, I used a method I haven't read about before... find a bar stool with a hard seat, place an inner tube on top (for grip), hold the tensioner with one hand and press the plunger end into the inner tube with about 15 lbs. of force, walk in a circle around the stool about 3 times, then use your free hand to set the circlip. Presto, tensioner is locked and loaded. No vice or clamps necessary.

One other tip (sorry if this is obvious). If you don't want to buy an expensive valve shim kit, or you don't want to pay 6 bucks a pop for OEM shims, you can order Pro X shims from Rocky Mountain ATV for $1.49. Order the WRF shims, they don't stock "WRR valve shims" even though they're the same size. Even better, the Pro X shims come in 0.025 mm increments so it's easier to get the valve clearances where you want them. Most shims are sold only in 0.05 mm increments.

The downside is, if you only need 1 valve shim, you'll have to add $98.51 to your order to get free shipping.
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Old 04-26-2013, 07:29 PM   #35061
bogboy
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Location: Westford, Ma.
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[QUOTE=jkstehn;21276771]It is an electronic rev limiter. Just have to learn the sound of being almost to that RPM



Ahh, Got it. I was hoping something like that. Love this bike
Thanks Jon
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Old 04-27-2013, 06:20 AM   #35062
Rider_WV
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Joined: Apr 2008
Location: Leon, WV
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DNF View Post
Rim locks yes or no?

About to replace stock tires with some Mitos.

20 % street
70% fireroad/trail
10% single/gnarly

Kootenays so 20% mud, almost no sand.
Motion pro lite locks are the ticket
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Old 04-27-2013, 11:25 AM   #35063
yaw
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Location: Republic of PDX Oregon
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Starter dampener

Bogus Jim! Thanks for the feedback. I love the photo of your engine on the dining room table. A man that knows how to live! I will be diving further into my engine soon. Need some wheels! The r2 is currently my only mode of transportation besides my bicycle. Will update when I find the source of the noise. Marc
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Old 04-27-2013, 12:18 PM   #35064
GSBS
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Location: Blount Springs, AL
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rider_wv View Post
motion pro lite locks are the ticket
+1
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Old 04-27-2013, 12:19 PM   #35065
Paebr332
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Location: Shippensburg, PA
Oddometer: 760
Quote:
Originally Posted by indypup View Post
lol, where did you find that graphic? I do a lot of night riding and that think is pretty sweet. No need for helmet lights with that thing...
What light array is that?
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Old 04-27-2013, 02:08 PM   #35066
ecarnell
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Paebr332 View Post
What light array is that?
X2??? Interesting to see some front pics!
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Old 04-27-2013, 02:53 PM   #35067
Daamud
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Joined: Aug 2007
Location: In the 715, Wisconsin, U.S.A.
Oddometer: 2,108
Quote:
Originally Posted by CJ smith View Post
Replacing means $300 for inner tube,+seal rebuild kit & oil+specialty tools. If anyone comes across a used fork for the wr250r please let me know. Until then I'll try sanding & filling in with epoxy.
Quote:
Originally Posted by CJ smith View Post
What are the odds of something like this buffing out with emery cloth/fine sand paper? The right fork just started showing signs of fork oil residue rings, its not a fast leak but in time im sure this gouge will take a toll on the seal.

[IMG][/IMG]

I've seen it done on logging hyd. cylinders and it's worth a shot....

It's not a cure but more of a band-aid...

Sand it down with water and light sand paper to get the burs off. Clean it very well with carb cleaner. Fill in deep scratches with JB Weld. Sand down agian with fine sand paper.

Kinda like Bondo on a car fender.
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Old 04-27-2013, 03:42 PM   #35068
sieg
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Location: Southern Illinois USA
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How did you do that? I've had upside down forks on my dirt bikes since they were invented (yes I'm that old) and ain't never done no shit like that. All in all $300 ain't bad to fix that. For what you'll pay for a used one, or a set, you might as well bite the bullet and get new stuff. Good luck, let us know if it works. I've filled stuff like that on hydraulic cylinders with silver solder, and re-chromed them. BTW
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Old 04-27-2013, 03:50 PM   #35069
shep546
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Location: Halifax, Nova Scotia Canada
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sieg View Post
How did you do that? I've had upside down forks on my dirt bikes since they were invented (yes I'm that old) and ain't never done no shit like that. All in all $300 ain't bad to fix that. For what you'll pay for a used one, or a set, you might as well bite the bullet and get new stuff. Good luck, let us know if it works. I've filled stuff like that on hydraulic cylinders with silver solder, and re-chromed them. BTW
Easy to do if you ride hard, my forks are scuffed a bit but not gouged and pitted like that. All it takes is a low side onto big rocks to do some serious damage.
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Old 04-27-2013, 03:58 PM   #35070
sieg
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Location: Southern Illinois USA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shep546 View Post
Easy to do if you ride hard, my forks are scuffed a bit but not gouged and pitted like that. All it takes is a low side onto big rocks to do some serious damage.
Hmmmm.... By your description it doesn't seem to be the hard riding but the low siding that causes the problems.
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