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Old 06-13-2013, 07:48 AM   #36076
Rapid Dog
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...hate to say it but the WR290X/R has gone to a new home...

I have a few bits left over.
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Old 06-13-2013, 07:49 AM   #36077
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nice video...good driving skills! funny when you pulled up to that guy in red you thought was your buddy..'wrong guy' haha

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Originally Posted by indypup View Post
Video from Flint Ridge Dual Sport ride on June 9th, 2013.

I took out a KTM rider so you guys should like it! lol


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Old 06-13-2013, 10:03 AM   #36078
jon_l
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Originally Posted by Rapid Dog View Post
I mounted two, a small one underneath the larger one. Big one for a fuel bottle, small for tire irons and such.
Made a small aluminum bracket to secure it to the toolbox bracket area.
I used a Weld86 tooltube bracket. many miles and it never shook loose.

Thank you Rapid. How much modifying did the weld86 mounting bracket require?
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Old 06-13-2013, 11:30 AM   #36079
leftystrat62
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Need Some HELP

Pulled apart my steering head and forks for the first time. After reassembly and a test drive-steering seemed too tight? ( I normally have my scott's dampener on but did not for the first test ride. I'm guessing that had nothing to do with the tight/stiff steering but thought I'd mention it.)
My guess is that I over tightened the upper and lower ring nut? The torque specs for lower ring nut say:1st 38 Nm loosen fully; 2nd 7 Nm. I used a specific made wrench for that nut so I had to hand tighten it-no torque wrench for this tool. I'm also not sure what the 1st torque spec means? Does it take 38Nm to loosen it and 7Nm when you tighten it?? Either way I plan to pull it apart and only snug the upper and lower ring nuts-but tighten the Steering stem nut to the required 120Nm.
Surer would love to hear from someone who had pulled this apart
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Old 06-13-2013, 11:55 AM   #36080
Rapid Dog
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Originally Posted by jon_l View Post
Thank you Rapid. How much modifying did the weld86 mounting bracket require?
Bracket didn't require any mods although the mounting holes are designed to line up with somwher on a DR farme.
I used cable clamps to mount the tube to the bracket and around the WR frame rail.




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Old 06-13-2013, 11:56 AM   #36081
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I've always tightened the steering head up by feel. Get the front wheel up off the ground, turn the bars to the right or left about halfway, tighten until they just fall over to the steering stop. If you let go of the steering at the halfway point and it does not fall over the rest of the way, it is too tight. If it flops over, too loose.
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Old 06-13-2013, 12:44 PM   #36082
leftystrat62
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Originally Posted by DaymienRules View Post
I've always tightened the steering head up by feel. Get the front wheel up off the ground, turn the bars to the right or left about halfway, tighten until they just fall over to the steering stop. If you let go of the steering at the halfway point and it does not fall over the rest of the way, it is too tight. If it flops over, too loose.
Are you referring to the upper and lower ring nut--not the steering nut?
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Old 06-13-2013, 01:38 PM   #36083
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Quote:
Originally Posted by coresports View Post
nice video...good driving skills! funny when you pulled up to that guy in red you thought was your buddy..'wrong guy' haha
Thanks, that guy looked almost like the guy I was riding with who was also on a Honda...lol
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Old 06-13-2013, 04:27 PM   #36084
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Quote:
Originally Posted by leftystrat62 View Post
Are you referring to the upper and lower ring nut--not the steering nut?
All of it really, they're not independent of each other. No matter how tight you set the ring nut, tightening the steering nut will always make the steering tighter. So snug up the ring nut to seat the bearings in their races, back it out and re-tighten lightly enough to keep everything in place. The recommended 7nm is not very tight, so that should give you some indication of where to set the ring. Put it back together and crank down on the steering nut, it's only going to tighten so much, feel free to use the torque spec on it. Now check the steering flop as I described. If it's close, I usually adjust the steering nut a little bit to get where I want. If it's not close, then I take it back apart, adjust the ring nut to get closer and reassemble.

I'd say back the steering nut out a quarter of a turn and see how it feels.
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Old 06-13-2013, 04:32 PM   #36085
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Has anybody ever used a Mountain Motor Sports Lowering Arm on their WR250R? It's a longer replacement for the Rear Relay Arm that came in 1.5" and 2.5" drops. I was in at Atomic Moto chatting with Brian and he pointed it out on my new to me WRR. Looks like they are out of business now. We searched for a bit but didn't find much about them.
So anybody have a Rear Arm Relay (the "L" shaped piece that the rear swing arm and dog bones connect to) lying around that they want to get rid of? I want to get my bike back to stock height and the person that I bought it from didn't have the original Rear Arm Relay. The Mountain Motor Sports lowering arm makes the bike about 1.5" lower than you can get it with a just a Yamalink. You can use both the MMS relay and the Yamalink (it's how my bike came set up) to get the bike really low.

I'd be willing to do a straight swap with someone if they wanted to lower their bike even more than just a Yamalink.
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Old 06-13-2013, 04:36 PM   #36086
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DaymienRules View Post
All of it really, they're not independent of each other. No matter how tight you set the ring nut, tightening the steering nut will always make the steering tighter. So snug up the ring nut to seat the bearings in their races, back it out and re-tighten lightly enough to keep everything in place. The recommended 7nm is not very tight, so that should give you some indication of where to set the ring. Put it back together and crank down on the steering nut, it's only going to tighten so much, feel free to use the torque spec on it. Now check the steering flop as I described. If it's close, I usually adjust the steering nut a little bit to get where I want. If it's not close, then I take it back apart, adjust the ring nut to get closer and reassemble.

I'd say back the steering nut out a quarter of a turn and see how it feels.
Thanks so much for the reply-that sound very helpful. Cheers
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Old 06-13-2013, 06:35 PM   #36087
Off Road USA
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Rainshadow, I have that L piece left over from when I lowered mine , it's just collecting dust. your more than welcome to it
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Old 06-13-2013, 07:19 PM   #36088
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rainshadow, now that you have a stock link, what would you want for the lowering link?
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Old 06-13-2013, 07:19 PM   #36089
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Thanks Ronin. In looking at the photos you posted of installing the Scott's damper on your WRR, it looks like you had the Contour Pantrana FMX bars at one time. In looking at the Protaper website, the Pantrana FMX are 121MM tall and the Woods are 95MM tall. For my height, I'm leaning toward getting the Pantrana FMX.

Also, I'm not purchasing the Scott's damper at this point so I'm not sure the Scott's sub mount will work for me?

Thanks for the lean on Pivotpegz. I'm on the hunt for new pegs, so I'll take a look at these too.


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Originally Posted by Ronin ADV View Post
The Scott's sub mount comes with a lower bracket / riser that lift things up quite a bit. I then mounted some Pro Taper Woods high bars and that got me enough height. You can also get more "height" by lowering your footpeg position. As I recall the Fastway pegs have a high/ low position option. I took them off and went with Pivotpegz so I can't remember exactly. I'm sure someone here knows.
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Old 06-13-2013, 07:29 PM   #36090
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One more question on raising the bars: Anyone know if the stock cables have enough length to accommodate the Pro Taper Contour Pantrana FMX bars w/a riser? Thanks!

EDIT: I think I found the answer searching through the thread back at #35382. If one can install ProTaper bars with 4" of rise (Windham/RM MID bend) plus have the Rox 2" risers and not have to replace any cables or wiring, I should be good to go!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Ronin ADV View Post
The Scott's sub mount comes with a lower bracket / riser that lift things up quite a bit. I then mounted some Pro Taper Woods high bars and that got me enough height.

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