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Old 07-21-2013, 04:08 PM   #36691
woofer2609
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Location: Extreme Pacific SouthWest (of Canada)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 10Cup View Post
I have used .600 for several years. Works in all conditions and like it a lot.
Quote:
Originally Posted by jon_l View Post
I lowered my rear using the shock clevis, and lowered the front 3/4", very pleased with the result.
Thanks for the info, guys, it even felt different just sitting on it. I know from mountain biking what a huge difference even a variation of 1" axle to crown height does for your abilty to climb or descend due to geometry changes. Unlowered, the front end felt too light.
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Old 07-21-2013, 05:39 PM   #36692
Oh2RideMore
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Picked up the seat concepts seat cover. Installed tonight, much simpler than previous install of versys seat cover.

sent from my perfectly sized do it all galaxy note
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Old 07-22-2013, 12:31 AM   #36693
Advental
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TCI (turbo city) skid plate does come with swappable plate in the front. One flat plate and another plate to accommodate the canister for CA model. It is built very well and engine guard that works with their skid plate is solid. It fits so snag that it took me more than couple of hours trying to tightening all the nuts and bolts because I have normal size hand. If you got large hands, you might have to get some help to assemble this skid plate... If you have small hands with really long fingers, you might get it installed in 30 mins. I'm happy with it until the day I have to take it off for some reason. Bottom of the plate has a hole to drain the oil, but not sure if I can change the filter without removing it.

BTW, TCI (turbo city) makes great headlight guard that looks and works great and that one only took like 5 mins to install.
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Old 07-22-2013, 04:21 AM   #36694
scudrunner82
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Location: Catskill, NY
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Oh2RideMore View Post
Picked up the seat concepts seat cover. Installed tonight, much simpler than previous install of versys seat cover.

sent from my perfectly sized do it all galaxy note


When you have some miles/hours on it can you give a quick review? I was thinking of getting the same one..
Randy
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Old 07-22-2013, 06:41 AM   #36695
Krabill
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Joined: Oct 2005
Location: Tulsa, OK
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jglow View Post
Has anyone ever actually just changed out the pump motor?? How is it getting into the plastic housing to get the old one out ?
I did it. Writeup and pictures here - http://www.wrrdualsport.com/tech-gui...8-fuel-pump-rr

I was really careful and still managed to crack the plastic housing.
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Old 07-22-2013, 07:44 AM   #36696
johninlv
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Location: Las Vegas NV, Marysville WA
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Fuel Pump

Quote:
Originally Posted by Krabill View Post
I did it. Writeup and pictures here - http://www.wrrdualsport.com/tech-gui...8-fuel-pump-rr

I was really careful and still managed to crack the plastic housing.
Would pre heating the plastic housing in hot water help?
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Old 07-22-2013, 08:18 AM   #36697
Scott_PDX
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Location: Portland...the newer one on the left side.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scudrunner82 View Post
When you have some miles/hours on it can you give a quick review? I was thinking of getting the same one..
Randy
Got 7000 miles on a seat concept - Very happy with the purchase. I first went with the gripper seat cover from them, but recently bought a replacement cover which is all carbon that like better. Replaced the cover as this is a tall bike for me and tend to drag my boot across the seat when dismounting which caused some premature wear.
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Old 07-22-2013, 09:29 AM   #36698
Rainshadow
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Joined: Oct 2010
Location: Bend, Oregon
Oddometer: 370
Front Fender Bag Heads Up!

Went for a very rocky ride yesterday. Haven't decided on a rear rack yet and didn't feel like wearing a pack in the heat so I used my front fender bag. It was a bit more loaded and heavy than normal as I was carrying both tire irons and a heavy tube in the bag. It had always held in place on my DRZ without drilling and zip tying the front fender, but it definitely slid around a bit on the narrower WRR front fender. No biggie, I just stopped every once in a while to make sure it wasn't getting into trouble.

About half way down a long downhill covered in softball sized rocks I noticed a bit of a louder rattle up front. There was a pretty good drop off to my left so I was focused on riding and not my bag or fender. At one particularly steep drop where my vision was focused on the landing I watched front fender flex forward and touch the tire. If the bag had slid forward at that time I'm pretty sure it would have caught and I'd have likely gone for a short exciting superman flight over the bars followed by an unpleasant landing in a boulder field with an angry bike following closely behind.

I found/made a turnout into the manzanita and took a look. The vibration and weight of the fender bag, combined with the high speed (for me) rocky ride had rattled all four of the screws that hold the front fender on to the fork brace loose so it was basically just hanging off of the fork brace loosely. Two were missing and the other two had a turn or two of the threads left holding them in place. Once those go it's only two rubber grommets holding the fender to the bottom of the light housing holding it on. The front of the fender has a bunch of nice new scrape marks from where it was making contact with the tire. There's no locktite or similar compound holding those 4 small screws in place. If they come out the chances are good that the fender is going to drop straight on to the front tire at speed and the result will likely not be pretty.

Check your front fender bolts! I'm going to red locktite mine once I get a few replacement screws. Next new accessory for the bike is going to be a rear rack as I don't want to carry any weight on the front fender any longer. Recommendations?

Rainshadow screwed with this post 07-22-2013 at 09:36 AM
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Old 07-22-2013, 09:30 AM   #36699
cjbiker
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Location: Southern Maine
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Ok, here's a question for all you long distance WRR riders. I've put about a thousand miles on mine so far, and it can't be beat for true 50/50 road/offroad riding. What it isn't so good at for me is longer distance miles, say 200+ miles a day. I find that I am quickly fatigued from fighting the wind at speeds above 45mph. If you're a long distance rider on your WRR, what's your solution?

Slower speeds?

Windscreen (if so, please post info and pictures!)?

Upper body strengthening?

Other?
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Old 07-22-2013, 09:39 AM   #36700
japako
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Joined: Nov 2010
Location: North Texas
Oddometer: 592
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rainshadow View Post
Went for a very rocky ride yesterday. Haven't decided on a rear rack yet and didn't feel like wearing a pack in the heat so I used my front fender bag. It was a bit more loaded and heavy than normal as I was carrying both tire irons and a heavy tube in the bag. It had always held in place on my DRZ without drilling and zip tying the front fender, but it definitely slid around a bit on the narrower WRR front fender. No biggie, I just stopped every once in a while to make sure it wasn't getting into trouble.

About half way down a long downhill covered in softball sized rocks I noticed a bit of a louder rattle up front. There was a pretty good drop off to my left so I was focused on riding and not my bag or fender. At one particularly steep drop where my vision was focused on the landing I watched front fender flex forward and touch the tire. If the bag had slid forward at that time I'm pretty sure it would have caught and I'd have likely gone for a short exciting superman flight over the bars followed by an unpleasant landing in a boulder field with an angry bike following closely behind.

I found/made a turnout into the manzanita and took a look. The vibration and weight of the fender bag, combined with the high speed (for me) rocky ride had rattled all four of the screws that hold the front fender on to the fork brace loose so it was basically just hanging off of the fork brace loosely. Two were missing and the other two had a turn or two of the threads left holding them in place. Once those go it's only two rubber grommets holding the fender to the bottom of the light housing holding it on. The front of the fender has a bunch of nice new scrape marks from where it was making contact with the tire. There's no locktite or similar compound holding those 4 small screws in place. If they come out the chances are good that the fender is going to drop straight on to the front tire at speed and the result will likely not be pretty.

Check your front fender bolts! I'm going to red locktite mine once I get a few replacement screws. Next new accessory for the bike is going to be a rear rack as I don't want to carry any weight on the front fender any longer. Recommendations?
You may want to use blue Lock tite on those screws. If you use red and want to change the fender?????
Just saying
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Old 07-22-2013, 09:44 AM   #36701
Mr. Fisherman
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cjbiker View Post
Ok, here's a question for all you long distance WRR riders. I've put about a thousand miles on mine so far, and it can't be beat for true 50/50 road/offroad riding. What it isn't so good at for me is longer distance miles, say 200+ miles a day. I find that I am quickly fatigued from fighting the wind at speeds above 45mph. If you're a long distance rider on your WRR, what's your solution?

Slower speeds?

Windscreen (if so, please post info and pictures!)?

Upper body strengthening?

Other?
Lynx fairing. See my reports. It rocks.
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Old 07-22-2013, 09:50 AM   #36702
jon_l
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Location: Collingwood, Ontario
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rainshadow View Post
Next new accessory for the bike is going to be a rear rack as I don't want to carry any weight on the front fender any longer. Recommendations?
If you want a rack (I know I do), go for it. If the only reason for the rack is to carry a fender-bag size amount of tools and a tube, The Wolfman Enduro tool bag may be the answer. Doesn't need a rack, cost is low, quality is high;





Mine is mounted on the headlight cowl, but the rear fender would be ideal.



I am not sure long-term how the plastic tabs that mount the cowl will last with an extra 5 lbs. So far so good.
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Old 07-22-2013, 10:02 AM   #36703
Rainshadow
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Joined: Oct 2010
Location: Bend, Oregon
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Quote:
Originally Posted by japako View Post
You may want to use blue Lock tite on those screws. If you use red and want to change the fender?????
Just saying
Roger that.

I was more than a bit freaked out. I have a C7 vertebrae that is toast because I played superman on a mountain bike a while back. I'd just assume not go for a repeat performance. I've found that my flight characteristics are not too different than a sack of concrete....
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Old 07-22-2013, 10:16 AM   #36704
bhd1223
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Location: CT
Oddometer: 293
Quote:
Originally Posted by jon_l View Post
If you want a rack (I know I do), go for it. If the only reason for the rack is to carry a fender-bag size amount of tools and a tube, The Wolfman Enduro tool bag may be the answer. Doesn't need a rack, cost is low, quality is high;





Mine is mounted on the headlight cowl, but the rear fender would be ideal.



I am not sure long-term how the plastic tabs that mount the cowl will last with an extra 5 lbs. So far so good.
The cowl doesn't last long when the bike goes head first into a tree. No need to ask how I know. Some heavy duty velcro and it holds tight but not quite right. It's an occurrence that's had me thinking about going with a larger round light up front.
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Old 07-22-2013, 11:23 AM   #36705
HardWorkingDog
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Location: Walnut Crick, Cal.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rainshadow View Post
...Next new accessory for the bike is going to be a rear rack as I don't want to carry any weight on the front fender any longer. Recommendations?
I have the Pro Moto Billet, happy with it. Can hold a Wolfman Exped. Duffel with no worries.

I've never liked front fender bags for just the reason you discovered. I've used a Number Plate Bag
from dirt-bike-gear.com for several years--highly recommended. I use it to hold a front tube and all
tire-changing tools and some other odds-n-ends. Good stuff.

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