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Old 08-04-2013, 11:02 AM   #36976
woofer2609
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Location: Extreme Pacific SouthWest (of Canada)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pookguy88 View Post
hmm ok, I'll do it then, the reason why I didn't do it at the same time was my lift wasn't able to fully lift the front tires off the ground so I wasn't able to get anything under it... wasn't sure if I could just lift the forks through the triple trees with the front tire on the ground.

also, how did you know to only do 5/8 of an inch? because I know the lowering of the rear and front shouldn't be 1:1
Use some calipers (shown) or a steel rule to get the height the same in the triple clamp. 5/8" just seemed to work for me, experiment.


As an aside, I found a pretty easy way to get the bike up on my custom (milkcrate with two layers of alternating 2"x6"'s) stand.
Place a 4x4 about a foot long on the ground in line with the bike on the kickstand side of the bike. Place it in front of the kickstand.
Place the milk crate on the other side of the bike near the front wheel, and within close proximity to your foot, so you can slide it over when needed.
With the bike in neutral, kickstand down, stand on the right side of the bike, and tip it to the right so the kickstand clears the 4x4.
With the kickstand above the 4x4, plant the kickstand footpad on it and lift the bike on the kickstand. This will give enough clearance to slide the milk crate, err, stand under the bike.
This photo shows the after. It also shows my ultra swanky kickstand extender
(my bike is an x with r wheels, so needed a leg extension) it's some 3/4" ply shaped to fit, and held in place by two wood screws from the top of the kickstand pad.) I must have been a KLR owner in a previous life
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Old 08-04-2013, 02:26 PM   #36977
pookguy88
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Quote:
Originally Posted by woofer2609 View Post
Use some calipers (shown) or a steel rule to get the height the same in the triple clamp. 5/8" just seemed to work for me, experiment.
welp, I did 12mm to start off.. we'll see how it goes and then I'll drop it more if need be.

as an aside, when we're doing the front fork lowering (i.e. raising the forks through the TTs) where are you guys measuring from? the fork itself is gold but at the very top there's a small silver cap (?). Do you guys measure from that or from where the gold starts? Sorry for the extremely noobish terms btw haha

good job with that DIY stand btw, seems like us shorties always need to just 'find a way' haha
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Old 08-04-2013, 02:29 PM   #36978
KansasBob
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Originally Posted by Rainshadow View Post
I have a stand that was shortened 3" by the previous owner. It's up for grabs. Send me a PM and anyone can have it for the cost of shipping. If you're going to be in Central Oregon it'll cost a 6 pack.
PM Sent!
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Old 08-04-2013, 02:36 PM   #36979
jon_l
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Quote:
Originally Posted by coresports View Post
i am only 5'6" with not the longest legs on my stock WRR and i find just putting one foot on the foot peg, slide your a$$ over just a bit on the seat, lean the bike slightly and i can flat foot the other foot on the ground. this works great on the street at stop lights and in the dirt...to me, trying to sit right in the middle of a bike and balance is harder.

as for the break in, i would change your oil/filter at 600 miles like the manual says, mine was filled with grey metallic looking sludge, i changed mine again at 1,000 miles (precaution) then started riding it normally (read mostly wide open) and mine started really revving free when it neared 2,000 miles. also, i would pick up a a magnetic oil drain plug (unless they come with them now but my 08 did not)
It's like an oil post of course, but...

I'd break it in much more aggressively, a modified version of the Motoman method, and change the oil at 100 (or less miles), then again at 600.

High Five did this too http://www.wrrdualsport.com/shoot-out

My WRR was used, so already broken in, but that is how I broke in my CBF, which is now a little more than 3 years old with no issues whatsoever. The Honda parts guy was curious why I needed an oil filter the same day I picked up my bike
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Old 08-04-2013, 03:22 PM   #36980
jon_l
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pookguy88 View Post
welp, I did 12mm to start off.. we'll see how it goes and then I'll drop it more if need be.

as an aside, when we're doing the front fork lowering (i.e. raising the forks through the TTs) where are you guys measuring from? the fork itself is gold but at the very top there's a small silver cap (?). Do you guys measure from that or from where the gold starts? Sorry for the extremely noobish terms btw haha

good job with that DIY stand btw, seems like us shorties always need to just 'find a way' haha
Not sure it matters, just make sure both forks are the same. I raised mine 3/4", based solely on conjecture after reading everything I could find, as there are no hard guidelines anywhere. Mine was lowered with the shock only, no Yamalink.

I'm pleased with the height and the result.

FWIW I haven't heard much positive about the spiral seat. Hopefully it works for you.
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Old 08-04-2013, 04:21 PM   #36981
shep546
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Anyone else ever stall after a cold start?

I have a 2012 wrr, with 3,000kms on it... all the power mods, fmf pipe, programmer etc.

Recently (past 2 weeks or so), if my bike sits for a few days without running, I will start it up, it will idle for a few seconds and then die...

If I rev it up slowly and warm it up like you would an older bike it is fine once warm... but this has never happened before.

Any insights?
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Old 08-04-2013, 04:37 PM   #36982
KansasBob
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jon_l View Post
Not sure it matters, just make sure both forks are the same. I raised mine 3/4", based solely on conjecture after reading everything I could find, as there are no hard guidelines anywhere. .


If you need it Low.............. push them as far as they will go. (OJ reference )
I actually rode for a year without the link, and just put one on before my July Colorado ride this summer. I had to pre load the rear spring more because the link softens the rear suspension characteristics, and it didn't feel a whole lot lower to me when I was all done. I added a click to the compression damping too.

KansasBob screwed with this post 08-04-2013 at 04:46 PM
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Old 08-04-2013, 05:25 PM   #36983
sieg
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FWIW, for you guys lowering a bike. I didn't lower my WRR but I have lowered many of my wife's bikes. I generally put an "angle finder?" http://www.globalindustrial.com/p/to...FZBaMgodUDgAKQ on the flat spot on the seat with the bike streaght up, before I lower the bike, take a reading, then lower the rear. Then slide the forks up in the triples till it is back to the original seat angle. That way I know it was lowered the same front and back and the frame geometry is the same as stock.
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Old 08-04-2013, 05:36 PM   #36984
pookguy88
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KansasBob View Post


If you need it Low.............. push them as far as they will go. (OJ reference )
I actually rode for a year without the link, and just put one on before my July Colorado ride this summer. I had to pre load the rear spring more because the link softens the rear suspension characteristics, and it didn't feel a whole lot lower to me when I was all done. I added a click to the compression damping too.
yup, just found this out, after I installed the Yamalink I backed off the preload about as much as I could go and sitting on it now (with the Yamalink + stock lowering) it definitely sags more than before. I thought I'd need a lighter/softer spring but I think I can live with this stock one with the Yamalink

edit: I weight ~ 135lb no gear
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Old 08-04-2013, 06:53 PM   #36985
Creekgeek
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In the search for metal bash plate serenity now...Adhesive back gasket material sheet on the inside of my flatland skid plate keeps it prptty quiet. It insulates between the frame and absorbs resonance noise. We'll see how long it lasts but has held up well enough so far.
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Old 08-05-2013, 03:37 AM   #36986
dnsjo
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[QUOTE=jon_l;22026810]Not sure it matters, just make sure both forks are the same. I raised mine 3/4", based solely on conjecture after reading everything I could find, as there are no hard guidelines anywhere. Mine was lowered with the shock only, no Yamalink.


Posted this before, but FWIW. I'm about 5'6".

I dropped my forks a full 2 inches by adding a Tusk 30mm bar riser (Rocky Mtn ATV). I had dropped the rear at least that much with a Moose 1.75" knuckle and the stock lowering. So far I love the handling. The steering is quick, and there is nary a wobble in corners or at 60+ mph. I doubt I will ever bottom the front end. The bike has a Corbin seat and the original kickstand.
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Old 08-05-2013, 04:33 AM   #36987
jon_l
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I was responding to pookguy88 who did shock lowering + Yamalink and raised the forks 1/2". Based on this thread, 1/2" seems less than most people do. 5/8 - 3/4" seems more the norm.

I did mine last year, and am pleased with the seat height and the handling.
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Old 08-05-2013, 11:52 AM   #36988
pookguy88
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1/2" seems ok for now, I'll try experimenting with more later

just finished adjusting the chain, seems that after the stock lowering adjustment and yamalink the chain tightened up (probably because the Yamalink extends the swingarm a bit) so just loosened it a bit, good thing I checked!
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Old 08-05-2013, 12:06 PM   #36989
Dahveed
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IMS gas tanks?

I'm about to pull the trigger on an IMS 4.75 gallon gas tank. Is everyone happy with theirs? Are there better tanks? I'd like to hear the good and bad now, as opposed to after I get the thing. Thanks!
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Old 08-05-2013, 12:08 PM   #36990
Dahveed
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kickstand foot?

Oh, what about a larger (area, not height) foot for the kickstand? I'm tempted to take off the stand and just weld a larger piece of metal on the bottom. Is there a pre-made part for a reasonable price?
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