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Old 08-07-2013, 08:56 PM   #37036
simmons1
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scottmac View Post
Selling some kits of the necessary parts might not be a bad idea.
I'll second that idea.

Sent from my Droid
Please excuse any typos
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Old 08-07-2013, 09:01 PM   #37037
noahdr
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TexaNate View Post
You may have stripped the rebound screw threads. Does the screw continue to "come out" of the hole (very slightly) as you decrease rebound? Absence of a "click" is not a huge deal if the screw is still putting pressure on the pushrod (someone correct me if I'm wrong).

--edit-- I just realized - so you're saying you overtightened the REBOUND and then the COMPRESSION screw doesn't click? Hmmm I very much doubt you blew a seal or something...

Thanks for the quick reply. No, I don't belive it is stripped as the screw does change position, but I cannot find a stopping point or zero spot. I think I went too far screwing it in trying to find that zero.

The compression screw on the bottom of fork makes no clicking at all that I can hear so I have no clue what position its at. The other side of the fork clicks just fine...
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Old 08-07-2013, 09:17 PM   #37038
HardWorkingDog
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scottmac View Post
Selling some kits of the necessary parts might not be a bad idea.
---begging the next person to quote those photos to PUHLEEZE 'shop out that red to something that doesn't make my eyes bleed!!!

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Old 08-07-2013, 10:13 PM   #37039
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A couple of buddies and I rode a pretty awesome loop around Utah. All of us have 2008 WR250R's. We used some of the UTBDR and filled in the rest with OHV trails, forest roads, blm roads, etc to create a Ultimate Adventure Loop Around Utah.

I am currently working on a ride report here: Ultimate Utah Adventure Route The UTBDR and a Whole Lot More


jordan
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Old 08-07-2013, 11:21 PM   #37040
RACINGTHESUN
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Thank you!

I want to thank the adventure riders who have helped me out on the bash plate issue. Still am not totally sure what to get the hard plastic or the flatlander aluminum. Plan on doing a ride around Colorado soon, and I definitely need a bash plate for the Jeep trails I ride on. Going to post pics of the places I go.

Connected my Zumo to the new WR tonight. That was a major accomplishment for me. I am almost totally mechanically declined. Wish I could meet another rider around the Boulder/Denver area who would like to ride and could possibly show me how to do some minor mechanical stuff. Even though the GPS was put on, I will have to have the dealership fix the wiring when I take it in for the break in maintenance. It looks like hell, but hey it works...so far
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Old 08-08-2013, 07:50 AM   #37041
ohgood
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Location: alabama
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BENRON View Post
My penny-tech "super moto" set up...

The old style ninja 250 wheels are silly cheap on Fleabay.





Took a handful of custom machined bits and bobs, and I still don't have a big brake on the front, But it seems to handle ok so far
another cheap hooligan modder - sweet !

i'm guessing you had to make:

internal bearing spacers
external axle spacers

caliper relocator (or haven't yet, given the "no big brake yet" part)

did you have to adjust the cush drive any ?

(i finished the drz + gs500/gsf400 wheel setup last month)

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scrolling through the words to get to the pictures is cool, but i'm really just here for the tracks and waypoints... post some ok ?
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Old 08-08-2013, 08:01 AM   #37042
ryguy83
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Has anyone tried or know if the Delta graves exhaust would work with the Megabomb header,i like the look of the graves exhaust but want the performance of the megabomb header. Will they fit together without any problems??

thanks,

-ry
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Old 08-08-2013, 08:50 AM   #37043
jon_l
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Location: Collingwood, Ontario
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ryguy83 View Post
Has anyone tried or know if the Delta graves exhaust would work with the Megabomb header,i like the look of the graves exhaust but want the performance of the megabomb header. Will they fit together without any problems??

thanks,

-ry
Look what you've done. HardWorkingDog's eyes are bleeding now.
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Old 08-08-2013, 08:57 AM   #37044
cjbiker
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Location: Southern Maine
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BENRON View Post
Front: WR stock axle, EX stock wheel, EX stock brake rotor with diameter turned down, different bearings to accommodate axle. Custom spacer to locate wheel left-right and custom center tube.

Rear: custom axle, custom nut, custom spacer to locate the stock EX disc correctly and one to go between the wheel and the brake caliper mount. Stock EX bearings.

Both ends use the stock WR calipers and brackets.
Nice job! It's only penny-tech if you have a lathe and know how to use it

I'm curious why you went with Ninja 250 wheels. They're 16" right?

cjbiker screwed with this post 08-08-2013 at 09:32 AM
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Old 08-08-2013, 09:23 AM   #37045
jon_l
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jglow View Post
I am currently working on a ride report here: Ultimate Utah Adventure Route – The UTBDR and a Whole Lot More

jordan
Days 1 and 2 are awesome! Looking forward to the rest of your report Jordan.
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Old 08-08-2013, 09:27 AM   #37046
BENRON
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cjbiker View Post

I'm curious why you went with Ninja 250 wheels. They're 16" right?
Yeah, all Ninja 250's were 16 inch wheels from 88-07 so they're plentiful and cheap.

The new ones look way more swanky and are 17"... But when I was lookin they were harder to come by and more expensive. If I wanted to spend money I'd just get the pre-built Warp 9 setup
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Old 08-08-2013, 10:35 AM   #37047
HardWorkingDog
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jon_l View Post
Look what you've done. HardWorkingDog's eyes are bleeding now.
...gotta wear shades now

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Old 08-08-2013, 12:11 PM   #37048
ryguy83
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jon_l View Post
Look what you've done. HardWorkingDog's eyes are bleeding now.
Call me stupid,I don't get it,sooooo does it work or no?
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Old 08-08-2013, 12:14 PM   #37049
TexaNate
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Quote:
Originally Posted by noahdr View Post
Thanks for the quick reply. No, I don't belive it is stripped as the screw does change position, but I cannot find a stopping point or zero spot. I think I went too far screwing it in trying to find that zero.

The compression screw on the bottom of fork makes no clicking at all that I can hear so I have no clue what position its at. The other side of the fork clicks just fine...
Wait, so the screw changes position but if you tighten it, you can just keep tightening it forever as it buries itself in the fork? At the full stopping point, the screw should be pushing up against a locknut on the damper assembly and it shouldn't turn anymore unless you really force it, which will grind the screw into the locknut. I guess if you turned hard enough, you could grind off the end of the screw on the locknut. You may have damaged the adjuster screw or the base valve - the base valve is pretty expensive ($200 OEM) but you can probably find a used set of complete forks on eBay for $300-$400 (that's your worst case scenario). I don't know if anyone sells replacement adjuster screws, I think they're built into the base valve.

However, on my forks, it's also difficult to find a stopping point - it just gradually gets a little tighter and I make an educated guess as to where to stop before I break something. Other guys with other bikes say they definitely have a stopping point but our manual says something like "don't try to force the screw" so I don't push it once I feel strong resistance to turning. I can't say for a certainty but I have a feeling these clickers are somewhat approximate and only accurate to 2-3 clicks anyway (someone correct me if I'm wrong there).

Sometimes it's damn near impossible to hear the clicking - usually I just feel a slight clicking at my screwdriver handle.

Instead of recording clicks, I would just record half-turns to approximately equal the number of clicks on the opposite fork leg (if you can eventually find full-stop).

Good luck!
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Old 08-08-2013, 12:47 PM   #37050
mpatch
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RACINGTHESUN View Post
I want to thank the adventure riders who have helped me out on the bash plate issue. Still am not totally sure what to get the hard plastic or the flatlander aluminum. Plan on doing a ride around Colorado soon, and I definitely need a bash plate for the Jeep trails I ride on. Going to post pics of the places I go.

Connected my Zumo to the new WR tonight. That was a major accomplishment for me. I am almost totally mechanically declined. Wish I could meet another rider around the Boulder/Denver area who would like to ride and could possibly show me how to do some minor mechanical stuff. Even though the GPS was put on, I will have to have the dealership fix the wiring when I take it in for the break in maintenance. It looks like hell, but hey it works...so far
I'm in Fort Collins and know the WRR pretty well if you need a hand with anything let me know.
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