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Old 09-04-2013, 05:14 PM   #37696
levain
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Faol View Post
They wouldn't show me the breakdown, just started adding stuff up on his desk calculator. I was just floored by the prices.
That's a problem
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Old 09-04-2013, 05:14 PM   #37697
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Originally Posted by Faol View Post
I am torn between the CRF250L and WRR, with price being the biggest issue. This thread and others like it have swayed me to the WRR. My past riding has been a Harley Dyna Wide Glide, which I sold a couple of years ago.

That being said, I went by my local dealer, who has a 2013 WRR in stock and sat on it for the first time. It is a tall sucker, but I think I can handle it. The price they gave me OTD for that thing was $7,900 ($6,700 for the bike itself). Is this normal for Georgia prices on these? The CRF250L, that they did not have in stock, was $5,600 OTD (bike was $4,500).
The WRR can be lowered a bit out of the box, and even further using a Yamalink. Much more out of box capability/adjustability than the CRF (of course that's only relavent if you want/need it, otherwise go for the least expensive option). Both prices you have are WAY WAY too high (for example, my buddy got a '13 WRR for $6600 OTD including the current consumer rebate).
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Old 09-04-2013, 05:33 PM   #37698
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rvsixer View Post
The WRR can be lowered a bit out of the box, and even further using a Yamalink. Much more out of box capability/adjustability than the CRF (of course that's only relavent if you want/need it, otherwise go for the least expensive option). Both prices you have are WAY WAY too high (for example, my buddy got a '13 WRR for $6600 OTD including the current consumer rebate).
Prices will differ across the states. What the price I can get in TX may not be the same in GA. But it should not be off by much.

What the dealers are doing, is adding shipping, handling, and anything else they can on an unsuspecting buyer.

What I've found to work on most dealers, is make a low offer and walk if they don't want to deal. Do this nicely...... It works most of the time. You want the deal to be a win, win situation, but not out of the ball park.
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Old 09-04-2013, 05:59 PM   #37699
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Originally Posted by japako View Post
Prices will differ across the states. What the price I can get in TX may not be the same in GA. But it should not be off by much.

What the dealers are doing, is adding shipping, handling, and anything else they can on an unsuspecting buyer.

What I've found to work on most dealers, is make a low offer and walk if they don't want to deal. Do this nicely...... It works most of the time. You want the deal to be a win, win situation, but not out of the ball park.
I take it this was directed to the OP, as my reply did not mention stealership pricing/tactics (I have worked at several and know the games well). I only cited the pricing example to warn the OP to take heed, and know he could get a market priced WR for the same inflated CRF price.

But while we are on the subject, the easiest method I have found to get your best localized pricing on any vehicle car or bike is to email all the local dealers for their best OTD price. You will see two distinct price groupings coming back at you, those dealers wanting to move vehicles, and those waiting for the suckers who will pay all those artificial profit makers mentioned (especially service contracts arggghhh what a rip those are). After getting the best price, simply walk in with a check and off you go. No haggling, no BS, no games.
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Old 09-04-2013, 07:37 PM   #37700
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rvsixer View Post
The WRR can be lowered a bit out of the box, and even further using a Yamalink. Much more out of box capability/adjustability than the CRF (of course that's only relavent if you want/need it, otherwise go for the least expensive option). Both prices you have are WAY WAY too high (for example, my buddy got a '13 WRR for $6600 OTD including the current consumer rebate).

We just bought a 2013 last week in SoCal for the same price OTD. We were at another dealership when I got this price quote over the phone. The dealer we were at wouldn't budge a penny below $7600. One phone call, a 15 minute drive, and $1000 saved.
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Old 09-04-2013, 07:50 PM   #37701
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yea when I bought mine they told me all togather it was going to cost me 7500 for my 2012 and I looked at all those extra fees and I lol at them and say that's nice this is what ill pay you for it which was 6500 or ill go over to the next town and by one for 1000 less the choices was yours 15 min later agreed to my terms after the sale was over I told them keep raping people on the price and you go out of business sence then Yamaha has pulled there line from these guys and Suzuki has also pulled there line as well now they just have Hondas left is all they have to sale
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Old 09-04-2013, 08:10 PM   #37702
japako
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rvsixer View Post
I take it this was directed to the OP, as my reply did not mention stealership pricing/tactics (I have worked at several and know the games well). I only cited the pricing example to warn the OP to take heed, and know he could get a market priced WR for the same inflated CRF price.

But while we are on the subject, the easiest method I have found to get your best localized pricing on any vehicle car or bike is to email all the local dealers for their best OTD price. You will see two distinct price groupings coming back at you, those dealers wanting to move vehicles, and those waiting for the suckers who will pay all those artificial profit makers mentioned (especially service contracts arggghhh what a rip those are). After getting the best price, simply walk in with a check and off you go. No haggling, no BS, no games.

My apologies, it was indeed meant for the OP. Although I believe we are on the same page.
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Old 09-04-2013, 08:16 PM   #37703
EEKAMOUSE
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Faol View Post
I am torn between the CRF250L and WRR, with price being the biggest issue. This thread and others like it have swayed me to the WRR. My past riding has been a Harley Dyna Wide Glide, which I sold a couple of years ago.

That being said, I went by my local dealer, who has a 2013 WRR in stock and sat on it for the first time. It is a tall sucker, but I think I can handle it. The price they gave me OTD for that thing was $7,900 ($6,700 for the bike itself). Is this normal for Georgia prices on these? The CRF250L, that they did not have in stock, was $5,600 OTD (bike was $4,500).
Also the crf250l just isn't as durable and not proven yet I have the wrr and have access to the crf and in our rides the crf goes anywhere the wrr does however it looks as if its ready to fall apart after one season of riding in the coal regions of pa. We have dented the frame badly and with not much of a spill I just dont trust the Lil crf is gonna be a durable trail machine like the wrr has already proven to be for some 6 years now.
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Old 09-04-2013, 09:06 PM   #37704
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Why? I took mine off and I'm running stock can. I alway though that if you were running EXUP, then AIS stays.

Quote:
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If you are running the stock (catalyst) exhaust, you should leave the AIS in place.
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Old 09-04-2013, 09:11 PM   #37705
woofer2609
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I'd like to ride one of the crf's. Interesting to see if the lower posture lowers the COG much.
I know you can hide a bike's weight pretty well if it is low and sprung weight, but I just can't fathom having to lift an additional 20 lbs each time I need to wake up the bike from a nap.
300 lbs (at least, what with all the farkles I've added) is more than enough
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Old 09-04-2013, 10:06 PM   #37706
r6realtor
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Quote:
Originally Posted by woofer2609 View Post
I'd like to ride one of the crf's. Interesting to see if the lower posture lowers the COG much.
I know you can hide a bike's weight pretty well if it is low and sprung weight, but I just can't fathom having to lift an additional 20 lbs each time I need to wake up the bike from a nap.
300 lbs (at least, what with all the farkles I've added) is more than enough
I have both and the crf is no doubt down on power compared to the wr but I have to say I love the crf offroad its a blast and does hide its weight well I honestly don't feel a huge weight difference between the two. The little crf flies off jumps and is a ton of fun in my opinion.
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Old 09-05-2013, 02:59 AM   #37707
shep546
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I'm probably gonna be blasted for this but I find the WRR a little low on power as is (even with all the power mods) I can't imagine having much fun off road on the CRF unless you are just putting down gravel roads...
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Old 09-05-2013, 03:28 AM   #37708
DougZ73
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Quote:
Originally Posted by simonpig View Post
Why? I took mine off and I'm running stock can. I alway though that if you were running EXUP, then AIS stays.
EXUP and AIS systems are totally independent.
EXUP is supposed to impact low end torque.
AIS..air injection system, impacts exhaust emmisions.

Quote:
Originally Posted by woofer2609 View Post
I'd like to ride one of the crf's. Interesting to see if the lower posture lowers the COG much.
I know you can hide a bike's weight pretty well if it is low and sprung weight, but I just can't fathom having to lift an additional 20 lbs each time I need to wake up the bike from a nap.
300 lbs (at least, what with all the farkles I've added) is more than enough
Quote:
Originally Posted by shep546 View Post
I'm probably gonna be blasted for this but I find the WRR a little low on power as is (even with all the power mods) I can't imagine having much fun off road on the CRF unless you are just putting down gravel roads...
Street legal Hondog is a CR250L http://powersports.honda.com/2013/crf250l.aspx
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Old 09-05-2013, 03:47 AM   #37709
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Originally Posted by DougZ73 View Post



Street legal Hondog is a CR250L http://powersports.honda.com/2013/crf250l.aspx
D'oh... too many years calling them CRF's haha.

Anyways... not trying to bash on the honda it seems like a great bike (especially for the price) but as we all know the WRR is a very capable dirt bike as well as dual sport... and it seems to me like the honda is more of pure dual sport bike.
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Old 09-05-2013, 04:13 AM   #37710
rsteiger
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Originally Posted by simonpig View Post
Why? I took mine off and I'm running stock can. I alway though that if you were running EXUP, then AIS stays.
The AIS is there to help the catalytic converter work. Without it the cat may become plugged or fouled.
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