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Old 10-21-2013, 06:23 PM   #38731
WHB_P
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Fuel pump

Does anybody have a bad fuel pump assembly they'd be willing to part with? Happy to pay shipping + a nominal cost.

I managed to drop my fuel tank while working on the bike tonight and broke the outlet nipple off the bottom of the pump housing.
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Old 10-21-2013, 06:46 PM   #38732
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You could also consider the 14/50 which puts you right in the middle between 13/46 and 13/47 and has the added advantage of having less to worry about regarding chain eating through the slider and/or swingarm. Check out BigDogAdventure WR250R build on his site.



Quote:
Originally Posted by malignity View Post
I'll be going to 13/46 or 13/47. It appears that they don't make 46t rears anymore, so I'll be leaning toward 47. If I don't like it and it kills my top speed too much, hopefully I can throw on a 14T front.
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Old 10-21-2013, 06:49 PM   #38733
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AWM - Great photos ! Thanks for posting. Graphics on your bike are cool as well. I like that old school look.
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Old 10-21-2013, 07:08 PM   #38734
malignity
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Quote:
Originally Posted by woofer2609 View Post
There's no way a 47 will kill your top speed. It will up it quite a bit I think you'll find. Much better in the tight stuff as well. I was riding yesterday with a fellow with the same bike running 12/48, and I wasn't finding my 13/47 too tall to go up anything he did. It's a good all rounder I feel. I rode home 60 miles as well at between 60-65 mph.
I do have 2 45t rears which I may use . One on the x wheels and one on the r wheels. Hopefully this wont be too tall for the tight stuff. It'd be nice not to have to adjust the tensioners when changing wheels.
I'd be curious to see what top speed is with the x wheels on and the 47t. As it stands, 84 and a bit mph and change is the best my bike will do with Trailwing stock tires and two empty TCI sideracks on with r wheels and 13/47 gearing. This was a 2 way average, about a 1 mile run, rolling start at just above sea level.
The only way to ascertain true top speed is a two way run average, same time of day, same day. Otherwise there are too many variables at play. A 1% decline with a slight tailwind will completely skew stats.
My buddy with 13/46 ripped past me flying down the road on his at 72, and I wasn't sure if it was because he was 30lbs lighter or if he had a better pull. I guess that answers that!
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Old 10-21-2013, 07:09 PM   #38735
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Quote:
Originally Posted by riverman View Post
You could also consider the 14/50 which puts you right in the middle between 13/46 and 13/47 and has the added advantage of having less to worry about regarding chain eating through the slider and/or swingarm. Check out BigDogAdventure WR250R build on his site.
Will a 14T work with the front sprocket cover? I split mine and just use the inner housing as a sort of case guard. I understand it's just plastic, but it's better than nothing. Once I get more money I'll pick up the steel one provided I can find it online to buy, but I'm jut working with what I have right now.
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Old 10-21-2013, 07:40 PM   #38736
riverman
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Yes, it will work. You might need to trim a little bit. I just forget exactly but I did run the stock plastic guard for a short while before I bought the Sandman case protector and guard.
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Old 10-21-2013, 08:00 PM   #38737
Attico
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What gearing are you guys running with the mt43 trials tire? Just spooned one on and need a starting spot. I have a 14t front and a 46 rear. I also have another 13t and 48t available. I think even 14-48 would be too tall, right? Maybe 13-48
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Old 10-21-2013, 09:36 PM   #38738
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with the mt43 I run a 14/47 street and, 13/47 strictly off road. I think the 14/48 will be pretty close to stock gears/tires, but with the additional tire weight of the mt43.
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Old 10-21-2013, 09:38 PM   #38739
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Attico View Post
What gearing are you guys running with the mt43 trials tire? Just spooned one on and need a starting spot. I have a 14t front and a 46 rear. I also have another 13t and 48t available. I think even 14-48 would be too tall, right? Maybe 13-48
I have run 13/50 and 14/50 with the MT 43. I think I remember 14 gave top speed of 84 and 13 gave 80. 14 was a little better for around town and freeway but I rode each for several months daily without problems on the LA freeways. The 13/50 first gear was a bit pointless on road but nice in rocks and goat trails.

If you are going to go with what you got, go 13/48. I think you will like it but it will be a bit buzzy at 70+ on the road. I ran 12 psi in the 43 no matter the conditions. Freeway for 150 miles, sand washes or hard desert dirt and rocks all in the same ride. Never changed over 2500 miles, worked awesome in everything but sand dunes.

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Old 10-21-2013, 09:45 PM   #38740
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EEKAMOUSE View Post
Has anyone had experience with the moose racing plastic skid plate? I run an aluminum skid now in very rocky terrain and it holds up and works well however I have to pound it out after every ride and its noisy. Will the moose hold up to this type of terrain?
I just put on a Moose plastic skid plate. Very beefy, much stronger than the Acerbis. It is really thick HDPE, lighter and quieter than a metal plate. More resilent and will hold its shape.

2013-10-05 13.42.47

2013-10-05 13.42.57

2013-10-05 13.43.12
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Old 10-21-2013, 09:48 PM   #38741
A66auto
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I ran a 13/48 for a long time and really liked it. It put me in a sweet spot for 2nd gear when I went offroad and did just fine on the highway. Topped out around 83 MPH, cruised at 65-70 with no problem.
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Old 10-21-2013, 09:51 PM   #38742
r6realtor
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chabon View Post
I just put on a Moose plastic skid plate. Very beefy, much stronger than the Acerbis. It is really thick HDPE, lighter and quieter than a metal plate. More resilent and will hold its shape.

2013-10-05 13.42.47

2013-10-05 13.42.57

2013-10-05 13.43.12
looks good, I would like to see the whole bike in a pic with it on do you have any? im digging that whole dirt tires on 17's looks sharp!
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Old 10-22-2013, 05:23 AM   #38743
rsteiger
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EEKAMOUSE View Post
Has anyone had experience with the moose racing plastic skid plate? I run an aluminum skid now in very rocky terrain and it holds up and works well however I have to pound it out after every ride and its noisy. Will the moose hold up to this type of terrain?
Can't say for sure.

I have a Moose racing plastic skid plate on my WRR but I live in the SE US. In July/August this year I went with a group that went out to Colorado and covered the COBDR route from Durango to Steamboat Springs and back again. I was a little nervous about the Moose skid plate but it took a couple of hits and seemed to be fine - did not have to straighten it out afterwards.

That being said, I still think the Flatland Skid plate provides better coverage and may go to that if I ever have a problem with the Moose skid plate.
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Old 10-22-2013, 05:35 AM   #38744
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Y not GYTR?

I've never heard anyone mention the GYTR skid plate on here ...

Any reason why not?

I've got one, simply 'cos it was the best price, and i've skidded the bike across a fair few rocks, heard some pretty massive bangs and yet to see any sign of a dent. Plus it comes with rubber strips and make zero noise.

Seems like it protects the water pump ok ...

What am I missing
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Old 10-22-2013, 06:30 AM   #38745
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ReeksyOfOz View Post
I've never heard anyone mention the GYTR skid plate on here ...

Any reason why not?

I've got one, simply 'cos it was the best price, and i've skidded the bike across a fair few rocks, heard some pretty massive bangs and yet to see any sign of a dent. Plus it comes with rubber strips and make zero noise.

Seems like it protects the water pump ok ...

What am I missing

Nothing. 1/4" aluminum plates are basically all the same, it all comes down to style and selection. Either folks like the look of the FR plate better (true in my case) or its just that you tend to get "forum favorites". Go to another WRR site and you might see that everyone runs a GYTR. I'm sure the GYTR is a quality part and won't give you any issues.
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