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Old 11-16-2013, 07:38 AM   #39106
coresports
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i have owned/rode 2 wrf's... a 250 & 400 mainly off-road but up and down my street i didn't notice any strange handling characteristics and i can tell you it's a night & day difference suspension-wise in the trails. places/speed where it would be just stupid to ride my wrr the wrf would just blast thru like nothing much was going on - super stable/tracking straight, able to soak up any woops in it's path. if i was going to do a suspension upgrade and i could do it myself, i would swap forks vs re-doing the stockers. just my opinion.

i am curious about a rear shock swap also- is there anyway for this or are the dimensions just not workable?

i think a wrr with wrf suspension would a much better handling bike off-road and i can't imagine it being horrible on-road either but then again, i live in michigan so the roads are basically filled in potholes with small sections of pavement in-between, lol.

Quote:
Originally Posted by TexaNate View Post
Cheers fellas! Thought I had seen one somewhere but was looking for more detail - ended up finding the other posts through kawagumby's profile. Basically a clean bolt-up with the forks and new wheel/hub/axle, except some spacers at the axle need shortening and the brake line bracket needs modding. Apparently the YZFs went up from 46mm to 48mm in 2004 and I'm not sure when the WRFs made the change. I'm still sort of surprised more people don't do this rather than having their stockers reworked, given the cheapness and availability of more serious off-road forks online.



You're right - but it's still good to know that even if the forks get buggered I won't have to shell out for an exact OEM replacement. WRF forks are much more common and cheaper on ebay than the WRR's...supply and demand for you.

I'm eyeing it but I won't do the upgrade just yet. I'm a little worried about these two things:

a) On-road damping characteristics: I think Yamaha may have made the oil orifices smaller in order to keep the thing from bouncing all over the road (then again, I'm not sure how much I'll be using my WRR on the road in the future). Nothing that couldn't be rejiggered with a revalve, but worth considering.
b) The rear shock: It works OK-ish right now (not sure what the PO did to it but it doesn't pogo as much as others claim theirs does) but I'm afraid swapping out the forks might call attention to its relatively soft spring rate.

Just out of curiosity, I would love to hear others' thoughts on what they think of this mod.
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Old 11-16-2013, 07:41 AM   #39107
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bondatomic View Post
Hey guys, just got into dirtbiking and bought an '06 YZ250F (couldn't find a thread out there, figured this was pretty close). Any exemplary experience with a specific fork seal? The YZ's are shot...
I went oem and am happy. As a kit the price is far cheaper than buying piece meal. It's a matter of being meticulous when changing them if you've never done it before. I used a 3" long piece of black abs piping with a slot cut out of it to fit around the stanchion. Hose clamp it tight enough to just rest on the outside of the seal, but fit inside the leg, and start driving it in using a 18" long piece of 1"x3" and a mini sledgehammer, hit the seal on alternate sides of the leg to avoid driving it in cockeyed.

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Old 11-16-2013, 10:56 AM   #39108
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Originally Posted by coresports View Post
i am curious about a rear shock swap also- is there anyway for this or are the dimensions just not workable?
I have a '07 wr250f and a '03 wr250f and a '04wr450f and a '12 wr250r. The shock on the f's don't seen to be a simple swap to an r. IMHO Not close to the same length. So I just had my stock shock revalved.
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Old 11-16-2013, 11:13 AM   #39109
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bondatomic View Post
Hey guys, just got into dirtbiking and bought an '06 YZ250F (couldn't find a thread out there, figured this was pretty close). Any exemplary experience with a specific fork seal? The YZ's are shot...
Welcome to dirtbiking!

Three things:

1) the WR250R is a completely different bike than the YZF, or even the WRF. They share very few parts.
2) Try first cleaning the dirt out from under your seals with Sealmate or SealSavers, or even just sticking a feeler gauge up in the seal and pulling the dirt out. Your seals might be fine, and they might just have dust wedged up in there.
3) SKF seals are a forum favorite. I bought a Pivot Works rebuild kit for mine and it has held up nicely for the last ~800 miles of rough and dirty riding. The Pivot Works come with a factory replacement plan for when they eventually wear out.
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Old 11-16-2013, 12:54 PM   #39110
USAIR
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Thanks everyone for the links.

I am looking into new bars couple of reasons one would like to use Highway Dirt Bikes top clamp.
And I think I need the bars to be a little higher.

Nothing is set in stone as I just got the WRR today..I need to spend some time in the saddle first.
But I think that a skid plate and hand guards are a must first.
Skid plate looking at flatlands or ricochet.
Hand guards I am think Zeta with the flasers.

I like the HDB clean look and the incorporated electrics too.
Looking at the "ADVdx" model.





Anyone with experience with this company and which bars you recommend ?

Thanks
Fred
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Old 11-16-2013, 04:35 PM   #39111
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For what it's worth I use the Henry/Reed bend on my fat bars with the Scott's damper set up.
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Old 11-16-2013, 04:40 PM   #39112
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Quote:
Anyone with experience with this company and which bars you recommend ?
The bar choice is too personal to comment on but Highwaydirtbikes as a company is GREAT to work with....
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Old 11-16-2013, 10:09 PM   #39113
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Gas tanks

I am looking to get a larger gas tank for my 2012 wr250r. Does anyone have a side by side picture of a wr with a IMS 4.7 tank and a stock tank?

I like the way the bike rides with the stock tank but could use more mileage. I am thinking about going to a 3 gallon tank to keep the stock feel but could really use more range at cetain times. How much wider is the 4.7 and how much taller (near the seat) is it than stock?

Thanks for any replies.
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Old 11-16-2013, 10:20 PM   #39114
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Originally Posted by ntm1973 View Post
I am looking to get a larger gas tank for my 2012 wr250r. Does anyone have a side by side picture of a wr with a IMS 4.7 tank and a stock tank?

I like the way the bike rides with the stock tank but could use more mileage. I am thinking about going to a 3 gallon tank to keep the stock feel but could really use more range at cetain times. How much wider is the 4.7 and how much taller (near the seat) is it than stock?

Thanks for any replies.
My buddy just put the IMS 4.7 on and loves it says there no real difference in feel. Also says there's no real impact to handling (with respect to how it caries the weight).

I have stock and next on my list is the IMS tank. I'm riding with my buddy tomorrow if I remember I'll get a pic of the two bikes next to each other for you.
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Old 11-17-2013, 02:18 AM   #39115
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i put on a safaritank 3.7 gal tank and handling is the same and it feels good i love it
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Old 11-17-2013, 07:09 AM   #39116
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Originally Posted by trailwerks View Post
The bar choice is too personal to comment on but Highwaydirtbikes as a company is GREAT to work with....
Will the controls on on the WRR fit on 1 1/8" bar?

What are the pros and cons between 7/8" and 1 1/8" handle bars.

Seems to me I want to stick to the stock 7/8" bar size.

Thanks
Fred
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Old 11-17-2013, 08:14 AM   #39117
kawagumby
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TexaNate View Post



a) On-road damping characteristics: I think Yamaha may have made the oil orifices smaller in order to keep the thing from bouncing all over the road (then again, I'm not sure how much I'll be using my WRR on the road in the future). Nothing that couldn't be rejiggered with a revalve, but worth considering.

They work better than stock on the road. Smoother action works better anywhere.
The "oil orifices" you refer to are actually multi-layered flexible discs known as shim stacks. The stock units are of much smaller diameter than the off-road KYB's (used on many brands) and there are fewer of them...read "cheap"...as is the smaller WRR diameter base valving upon which they reside... in other words, the engineering is less about any kind of performance and more about cost. That's why revalving the stockers won't net you near the performance of a fork swap, no matter what is done, as you can't possibly change the design to match the larger flow capability (which also provides more progressive, tunable, and consistent fork action) provided by the std off-road KYB design forks.
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Old 11-17-2013, 08:50 AM   #39118
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Anybody on here installed the eastern beaver 3cs? I'm in the process of installing mine, but I'm having trouble getting it to switch on.

Orange fused (30A) wire to + battery. Black wire I have grounded to the frame but I've also grounded it straight to the battery in an effort to figure out why its not switching.

For the low amp signal switch I'm using the blue wire just rearward of the bright yellow connector on the left side of the bike. From my searches this is the license plate light wire.

It seems pretty straightforward but I'm clearly missing something

Anybody?
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Old 11-17-2013, 10:19 AM   #39119
cjbiker
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Originally Posted by USAIR View Post
Will the controls on on the WRR fit on 1 1/8" bar?

What are the pros and cons between 7/8" and 1 1/8" handle bars.

Seems to me I want to stick to the stock 7/8" bar size.

Thanks
Fred
Yes, the controls will fit. Only the center of the bars is 1-1/8".

Fat bars are generally stronger than 7/8" and don't have a crossbar which looks cleaner and allows more flexibility in adding accessories and such. You'll need to swap out the bar mounts or add adapters if you want to switch to fat bars.
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Old 11-17-2013, 10:56 AM   #39120
levain
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jcmcc View Post
Anybody on here installed the eastern beaver 3cs? I'm in the process of installing mine, but I'm having trouble getting it to switch on.

Orange fused (30A) wire to + battery. Black wire I have grounded to the frame but I've also grounded it straight to the battery in an effort to figure out why its not switching.

For the low amp signal switch I'm using the blue wire just rearward of the bright yellow connector on the left side of the bike. From my searches this is the license plate light wire.

It seems pretty straightforward but I'm clearly missing something

Anybody?
I tapped the rear brake light. Works great, but i don't like the big connectors. I might remove and solder shrink wrap instead to save some much needed real estate under the seat.
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