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Old 03-23-2014, 07:18 PM   #40891
Krabill
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Joined: Oct 2005
Location: Tulsa, OK
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20,000 miles and my clutch gave up the ghost

What to do if this happens to you . . .

The first thing I do is get all of my parts and information ready. Got the parts, then I printed out the two pages from the Service manual dealing with clutch replacement. Don't worry if you don't have a manual. I'll tell you everything you need to know from those two pages. It's a very simple procedure.



Next, you drain the oil.



Then you have to get the brake lever out of the way. There is a clip behind the bolt that holds the lever on that has to come off first. Then there is a washer. Then the bolt will screw right out with a 6mm allen wrench. Once the brake lever is loose, take the return spring off and disconnect the brake light switch. It doesn't need to come off completely, you just need to unhook it from the brake lever itself.

Brake lever hanging loose.



Here's a shot of the parts that come off.



Once that is out of the way, you can remove the clutch side plastic cover. It's just three 8mm bolts.



Nekkid clutch cover



Some more 8mm bolts need to come out. I keep them in order by placing them in their respective positions on a paper towel. This helps keep everything organized.



Once the cover is off, this is what you're looking at. From here, it's just (5) 10mm bolts. We're almost there.



Here's what it looks like with the (5) bolts loose. Don't worry, those springs won't come flying off or anything.



The cover will pull right off giving you access to the clutch plates.



Here are the parts that have come off all laid out and organized.



Pull the old clutch plates off.



The old stack. They're burnt.



New parts!!!! You can see I ordered new springs to go with the new clutch plates. I figured since I was in here, I might as well freshen it all up.



Here's a comparison of a really burnt disc and a brand new disc.



From there, it's a simple matter of stacking up the new ones. Clutch plate, disc, plate, disc, etc.

A note here, and the picture I took doesn't show it, but the clutch plates and discs need to be soaked in fresh, clean engine oil before assembly. Failure to do so can lead to very quickly burnt clutch plates, and you're back to square one.



Again, be sure to soak the clutch plates in and discs in clean oil prior to final install.



This is what you need the manual for. The torque specs

The (5) bolts that hold the cover on and the springs are to be 5.8 ft/lbs - or 70 inch/lbs. Don't confuse the two. A 1/4" torque wrench is usually adjusted in inch/lbs.



Once that is done, it is a simple matter of replacing the cover. All of the 8mm bolts that hold the main clutch cover and the plastic cover over that are to be torqued the same according to the Service Manual. 7.2 ft/lbs or 86 inch/lbs. Again, don't confuse the two.

Re-mount your rear brake lever and fill the engine with oil.

Congratulations. You're done. Without stopping to take pictures every 3 minutes, it's probably about a 20 minute job if you take your time.



I hope very few people have this problem, but if you do, don't sweat it. It's a quick and easy fix.
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Old 03-23-2014, 07:26 PM   #40892
avc8130
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Drain the oil to change the clutch?!?!? Blasphemy!

When I was a kid, we'd just throw the bike down on the left side and swap the clutch.

Great write up though. Best of luck with the new clutch!

ac
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Old 03-23-2014, 07:35 PM   #40893
avc8130
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Krabill,

WAIT A SECOND!!!

Did you put those friction discs in DRY?!?!?!?!

Unless the WR is an anomaly (edit: checked the service manual the WR is NOT an anomaly), you need to soak those frictions in clean oil BEFORE assembly!

ac
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Old 03-23-2014, 07:57 PM   #40894
Krabill
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Quote:
Originally Posted by avc8130 View Post
Krabill,

WAIT A SECOND!!!

Did you put those friction discs in DRY?!?!?!?!

Unless the WR is an anomaly (edit: checked the service manual the WR is NOT an anomaly), you need to soak those frictions in clean oil BEFORE assembly!

ac
You are absolutely right, and no, I didn't install them dry. Since the WRR has a wet clutch, the plates and discs should be soaked in fresh oil before assembly. I didn't get a picture of that and I'll update the instructions.
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Old 03-23-2014, 08:33 PM   #40895
henrymartin
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Old 03-23-2014, 09:28 PM   #40896
Reeksy
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Looking good!

Nice work Henry.

hey - love that rack. I've got one just like it

That sand is so white!!!
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Old 03-23-2014, 09:53 PM   #40897
Scott_PDX
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Quote:
Originally Posted by avc8130 View Post
Krabill,

WAIT A SECOND!!!

Did you put those friction discs in DRY?!?!?!?!

Unless the WR is an anomaly (edit: checked the service manual the WR is NOT an anomaly), you need to soak those frictions in clean oil BEFORE assembly!

ac
Curious about that also. However, the rest of the write up is confidence expiring. Thanks.

EDIT: See you did soak them, good job sharing.
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Old 03-23-2014, 10:28 PM   #40898
Bkblitzed
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 4play View Post
The Edge 2 although it does look better has three major issues that kept me from going that route, it's no where near as bright as stock & I want to be seen, it's prone to water getting in and damaging it & third it doesn't protrude down or back far enough to keep the mud off of the light & more importantly you. I choose function over looks.

Look at the back edge of the tire, draw a line from the back edge of the tire & the lowest part of the tail light/license plate & that's the mud path.
I wacked off the lower section & cut out a piece of ABS to mount the plate on.



Then I used Highway Dirtbike turn signals where the stock signals used to be. Tucked in tight, should be out of harms way & they are very bright,


Im all for functionality over looks, but the actual plastic that holds my blinker is broken. Is there any other company that makes a whole new piece?

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Old 03-23-2014, 11:19 PM   #40899
Sewerat
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Yamaha WR250R Mega Thread

Quote:
Originally Posted by Bkblitzed View Post
after dropping the bike today, my left rear tail turn signal broke off the plastic. Im still deciding on buying the Edge2 Integrated Tail Light with the 12 oclock lab and for the front the drc type 602's. Anyone run these? How are the durability on the fronts? Or since i need hand guards, should i just buy the zeta handguards with the built in turn signals? I still have the stock bars and them being 7/8 I wouldn't think there would be a problem with the zeta handguards, or am i wrong?

The drc lights are junk, we t thru three of them before I finally got something that worked and worked well. First two got wet, muck in them, so third on I sealed up really good and still wet muck. I went to the chopped stocker route for awhile until I looped it out on the ice lat year and broke it off. So early last spring went to ktm exc300 tail light. Needed to form my own aluminum bracket but built it right from scratch, plate holder, turn signal mounts and tail light mount.







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Old 03-24-2014, 04:01 AM   #40900
DougZ73
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Nice write up Krabill.
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Old 03-24-2014, 05:28 AM   #40901
avc8130
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Sewerat,

That tail light looks GREAT! Really modernizes the ass.

ac
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Old 03-24-2014, 06:17 AM   #40902
sieg
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Krabill View Post
Then you have to get the brake lever out of the way. There is a clip behind the bolt that holds the lever on that has to come off first. Then there is a washer. Then the bolt will screw right out with a 6mm allen wrench. Once the brake lever is loose, take the return spring off and disconnect the brake light switch. It doesn't need to come off completely, you just need to unhook it from the brake lever itself.

A little time and trouble saving tip: Spread the brake pads apart, then the pedal can be pushed full travel till it hits the foot peg, zip-tie it to the food peg in this position and you don't have to remove it.
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Old 03-24-2014, 06:22 AM   #40903
Krabill
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sieg View Post
A little time and trouble saving tip: Spread the brake pads apart, then the pedal can be pushed full travel till it hits the foot peg, zip-tie it to the food peg in this position and you don't have to remove it.
Very good tip!

I would imagine, however, that very few people take the time to service the brake lever pivot very often. It needs to be greased every now and then and this was a great opportunity to clean and re-grease the pivot bolt since the tools were out. Getting as much preventative maintenance done with very little extra effort prolongs the life of your motorcycle.
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Old 03-24-2014, 07:19 AM   #40904
coresports
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great write up.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Krabill View Post
20,000 miles and my clutch gave up the ghost

What to do if this happens to you . . .

The first thing I do is get all of my parts and information ready. Got the parts, then I printed out the two pages from the Service manual dealing with clutch replacement. Don't worry if you don't have a manual. I'll tell you everything you need to know from those two pages. It's a very simple procedure.



Next, you drain the oil.



Then you have to get the brake lever out of the way. There is a clip behind the bolt that holds the lever on that has to come off first. Then there is a washer. Then the bolt will screw right out with a 6mm allen wrench. Once the brake lever is loose, take the return spring off and disconnect the brake light switch. It doesn't need to come off completely, you just need to unhook it from the brake lever itself.

Brake lever hanging loose.



Here's a shot of the parts that come off.



Once that is out of the way, you can remove the clutch side plastic cover. It's just three 8mm bolts.



Nekkid clutch cover



Some more 8mm bolts need to come out. I keep them in order by placing them in their respective positions on a paper towel. This helps keep everything organized.



Once the cover is off, this is what you're looking at. From here, it's just (5) 10mm bolts. We're almost there.



Here's what it looks like with the (5) bolts loose. Don't worry, those springs won't come flying off or anything.



The cover will pull right off giving you access to the clutch plates.



Here are the parts that have come off all laid out and organized.



Pull the old clutch plates off.



The old stack. They're burnt.



New parts!!!! You can see I ordered new springs to go with the new clutch plates. I figured since I was in here, I might as well freshen it all up.



Here's a comparison of a really burnt disc and a brand new disc.



From there, it's a simple matter of stacking up the new ones. Clutch plate, disc, plate, disc, etc.

A note here, and the picture I took doesn't show it, but the clutch plates and discs need to be soaked in fresh, clean engine oil before assembly. Failure to do so can lead to very quickly burnt clutch plates, and you're back to square one.



This is what you need the manual for. The torque specs

The (5) bolts that hold the cover on and the springs are to be 5.8 ft/lbs - or 70 inch/lbs. Don't confuse the two. A 1/4" torque wrench is usually adjusted in inch/lbs.



Once that is done, it is a simple matter of replacing the cover. All of the 8mm bolts that hold the main clutch cover and the plastic cover over that are to be torqued the same according to the Service Manual. 7.2 ft/lbs or 86 inch/lbs. Again, don't confuse the two.

Re-mount your rear brake lever and fill the engine with oil.

Congratulations. You're done. Without stopping to take pictures every 3 minutes, it's probably about a 20 minute job if you take your time.



I hope very few people have this problem, but if you do, don't sweat it. It's a quick and easy fix.
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Old 03-24-2014, 07:36 AM   #40905
USAIR
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Quote:
Originally Posted by avc8130 View Post
Krabill,

WAIT A SECOND!!!

Did you put those friction discs in DRY?!?!?!?!

Unless the WR is an anomaly (edit: checked the service manual the WR is NOT an anomaly), you need to soak those frictions in clean oil BEFORE assembly!

ac
Edit:I Ok now I see you did....sorry I didn't read far enough down the page.
Good job.

That was going to be my comment I always soak the disk in oil before you assemble.
I guess you could fill with oil and lay the bike on it's side for a while??

Fred
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