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Old 04-03-2014, 06:36 PM   #41101
Red Dust
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Joined: Aug 2006
Location: North of Brisbane
Oddometer: 423
Will most likely get the little blue just wonder if I should change the sprockets straight away when everything is new or wait until chain/sprockets worn.
Will use it mainly for the forest but still would be nice to be able to get to those places without over rev the engine, need to get there at corrected 100 KM/H (65 MP/H). Stock set up or something like 14 front and 49 rear? Is it a safe way to use stock chain and just add a few links to be able to use the larger sprockets to this set up and most importantly: will this be enough to ride it in dense bush on single tracks e.t.c. remember I want to have the cake and eat it so I do not want to gear it down too much.
Also which bash plate do you guys believe is best? I looked at Flatlands and kind of like it. Also think a radiator guard would be nice if I ever get behind other bikes on dirt roads, which one to get, Force or other brand?
Best hand guards, Cycra?
Seems to be a great little bike to complement to my Super Tenere as long as you have in your mind set it is "only" a 250 :-)
Cheers!
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Old 04-03-2014, 07:50 PM   #41102
ProLeisure
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Location: Bay Area and North Lake Tahoe
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Best hand guards? My vote: Highway Dirt Bikes. Very well made and a great company.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Red Dust View Post
Best hand guards, Cycra?

ProLeisure screwed with this post 04-04-2014 at 12:10 AM
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Old 04-03-2014, 07:53 PM   #41103
4play
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Location: Avondale, AZ
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Red Dust View Post
Will most likely get the little blue just wonder if I should change the sprockets straight away when everything is new or wait until chain/sprockets worn.
Will use it mainly for the forest but still would be nice to be able to get to those places without over rev the engine, need to get there at corrected 100 KM/H (65 MP/H). Stock set up or something like 14 front and 49 rear? Is it a safe way to use stock chain and just add a few links to be able to use the larger sprockets to this set up and most importantly: will this be enough to ride it in dense bush on single tracks e.t.c. remember I want to have the cake and eat it so I do not want to gear it down too much.
Also which bash plate do you guys believe is best? I looked at Flatlands and kind of like it. Also think a radiator guard would be nice if I ever get behind other bikes on dirt roads, which one to get, Force or other brand?
Best hand guards, Cycra?
Seems to be a great little bike to complement to my Super Tenere as long as you have in your mind set it is "only" a 250 :-)
Cheers!
I'm running 14/49 and it's plenty low for even gnarly single track running the MT43. I suggest you ride it stock for a bit & see what suits your riding style. I did some pretty technical riding on the stock gearing & it did pretty good.
I'm running the Moose plastic skid pan & it works well, the flatlands always get good reviews as well. The absolute best hand guards are Highway Dirtbikes & they give a discount to ADV members
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Old 04-03-2014, 09:41 PM   #41104
eWRXshun
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Originally Posted by LewisNClark View Post
For all of Us off road riders to watch...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zFAMaXnw83k
i want to see the video where the guy's chasing the kangaroo
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Old 04-03-2014, 10:00 PM   #41105
dazler
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Would I have to grease the bushing/bearing/seal looking thing behind the front sprocket?
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Old 04-03-2014, 10:05 PM   #41106
byron555
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Joined: Oct 2007
Location: Central Wisconsin
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I got my rear brake working

I was having problems bleeding my rear brake.... Long story short, it was the pads. Well actually one pad. The mounting tab or "ear" was bent on one of the pads. How you bend one of these is a mystery to me, but I must have bent it on my last DS ride of the season. The tab was bent towards the other pad and contacted it's mounting tab preventing the pads from making direct contact to the rotor
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Old 04-04-2014, 03:57 AM   #41107
Reeksy
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Joined: Jan 2010
Location: Mt Mellum
Oddometer: 849
As you're in Oz i'd say the Force guard makes most sense. Fits with the Safari tank too if you ever get into it (and yes you can ride overgrown lantana single track just fine with that tank). Coming down super-steep hills (Gheerula if you've even been through there) on standard gearing involves a bit of sliding and stalling, but is just fine for a real 100kmph (105-7 ish on speedo with stock gears). Had no problems going uphill offroad with that gearing, just need 1st sooner.

I got the GYTR bash plate and it's so far undentable and make zero noise without any modification, unlike some others i've heard about.



Quote:
Originally Posted by Red Dust View Post
Will most likely get the little blue just wonder if I should change the sprockets straight away when everything is new or wait until chain/sprockets worn.
Will use it mainly for the forest but still would be nice to be able to get to those places without over rev the engine, need to get there at corrected 100 KM/H (65 MP/H). Stock set up or something like 14 front and 49 rear? Is it a safe way to use stock chain and just add a few links to be able to use the larger sprockets to this set up and most importantly: will this be enough to ride it in dense bush on single tracks e.t.c. remember I want to have the cake and eat it so I do not want to gear it down too much.
Also which bash plate do you guys believe is best? I looked at Flatlands and kind of like it. Also think a radiator guard would be nice if I ever get behind other bikes on dirt roads, which one to get, Force or other brand?
Best hand guards, Cycra?
Seems to be a great little bike to complement to my Super Tenere as long as you have in your mind set it is "only" a 250 :-)
Cheers!
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Old 04-04-2014, 01:04 PM   #41108
ER70S-2
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Joined: Sep 2009
Location: SE Denver-ish
Oddometer: 4,909
Quote:
Originally Posted by freetors View Post
It's cliche I know, but I finally got around to mounting an agrisupply tool tube so I could get some of the crap out of my tankbag. I didn't really have the real estate to mount it in the conventional locations so I decided to put it somewhere else. An unconventional location, yes, but it's out of the way and uses some wasted space as far as I'm concerned. It doesn't interfere with my leg or foot at all either.

Well, I'll be danged, thinking outside the box.

How long has it been there, has it melted on the cylinder side? Did you use the 3-1/2" or 4-1/2" Agri tube (I have both)?

My too kewl starbucs buddies would pop an aneurism if they saw that on the WR that I don't even have yet (check my sig line).

My dealer called again this morning, ETA: Tuesday
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Threewheelbonnie View Post
"BTW, I don't do style. It's a dirt bike, not some girlie dress-up thing." -
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Old 04-04-2014, 02:28 PM   #41109
skian g
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Joined: Nov 2010
Location: Reading, Pa
Oddometer: 74
Quote:
Originally Posted by rsteiger View Post
Just out of curiosity, what gearing are you running?



I have been using the three finger method on my WRR which is what I have used on my dirt bikes in the past.

I am running stock gearing 13-43 I bet our two methods are in the same ballpark.


Quote:
Originally Posted by dazler View Post
That looks a lot easier than trying to read a fish scale as you push up on the chain with a force of 36lb.

Do you have a measurement of your finger method, as someone mention not everyone has the same size. Also do you push up or just slide the finger in there?



I believe my chain is super loose right now as I tried the screw driver in between the rear sprocket and chain trick to torque the axle nut and the screw driver when right in between them without tightening the chain. I post a video of what I mean later.

Yes you're correct it's super easy. My fingers are about 1.75" across. This doesn't have to be an exact setting you really just need to be in the ballpark. I lift the chain up with left hand and put two fingers under it and if it's not just sitting on them and it's not smashing them together I call it good.
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Old 04-04-2014, 06:33 PM   #41110
freetors
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Joined: Feb 2011
Location: Collinsville, OK
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ER70S-2 View Post
Well, I'll be danged, thinking outside the box.

How long has it been there, has it melted on the cylinder side? Did you use the 3-1/2" or 4-1/2" Agri tube (I have both)?

My too kewl starbucs buddies would pop an aneurism if they saw that on the WR that I don't even have yet (check my sig line).

My dealer called again this morning, ETA: Tuesday
Thanks! It's been on for about 200 miles now. I haven't any problems with it at all. No melting. Nothing. I left the rear bracket unpainted for now because I thought I would have to weld a stiffening rib to it so the tube wouldn't bounce around. I'm not sure it's necessary though. Oh yeah, both brackets are made from .080 4130. It's pretty solid and doesn't even vibrate while I'm riding. I think it must be the 3.5" because I wish it were larger. I didn't know they had two sizes. Do you know if they both have the same mounting footprint? I was hoping to move everything out of my tankbag including two spare tubes. I can't even get one in. Inside the tube I have a regular tire iron and two motionpro t6 irons, small hand pump, some sockets and driver, a screwdriver for adjusting suspension, and a multitool.
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Old 04-04-2014, 08:20 PM   #41111
ER70S-2
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I just checked, they have the same footprint. I've read that the single bolt bracket has broken on some, so I didn't depend on the two brackets when I mounted mine. It might not be a problem with the smaller tube since they use the same mounts. The tubes are designed to hold manuals on farm equipment, not tool rolls hammering down a washboarded road.

How I backed up the plastic mounting brackets. This setup has lasted many thousands of miles; with no mercy. http://www.advrider.com/forums/showp...8&postcount=60

Keep an eye on the cap, mine would loosen itself when riding stutter bumps/washboard (DR650 with a Cogent suspension. So what you might ask? I can pound the stutters with the Cogent set-up and I did. ) After elongating the hole in my alum exhaust bracket, I decided to be somewhat more gentle.

Since I added the UV resistant poly bungee, my cap hasn't loosened. Knock on wood.

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Quote:
Originally Posted by Threewheelbonnie View Post
"BTW, I don't do style. It's a dirt bike, not some girlie dress-up thing." -
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Old 04-05-2014, 12:07 AM   #41112
Red Dust
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Joined: Aug 2006
Location: North of Brisbane
Oddometer: 423
Going to inspect a 2010 model. Owner had it for 4 years but only ridden it 570 km (356 miles) should I be worried why that extremely low mileage?
Nice with a low mileage bike but also know it is not the best for the bike just to stand still. There is no set price on the bike so I`m still try to figure out how much to offer, is there a average percentage a bike will drop in value during 4 years, I know bike hardly has any k`s on it but it is still 4 years old and no warranty left. For example if bike cost $10 000 new what is realistic price after 4 years, half the value? Bike looks immaculate on pics.
Cheers!
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Old 04-05-2014, 01:58 AM   #41113
theMISSIONARY
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Joined: May 2006
Location: Devonport Tazmania
Oddometer: 2,074
Quote:
Originally Posted by Red Dust View Post
Going to inspect a 2010 model. Owner had it for 4 years but only ridden it 570 km (356 miles) should I be worried why that extremely low mileage?
Nice with a low mileage bike but also know it is not the best for the bike just to stand still. There is no set price on the bike so I`m still try to figure out how much to offer, is there a average percentage a bike will drop in value during 4 years, I know bike hardly has any k`s on it but it is still 4 years old and no warranty left. For example if bike cost $10 000 new what is realistic price after 4 years, half the value? Bike looks immaculate on pics.
Cheers!
$5000 tops.........
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Old 04-05-2014, 02:01 AM   #41114
Red Dust
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Joined: Aug 2006
Location: North of Brisbane
Oddometer: 423
Yes that was I thought, between $4500-5000. Just for a few grand more I can get a 2014 with 2 years warranty. Unfortunately Yamaha got this deal and not until the deal is finished I guess the 2nd hand prices dropped. Thanks!
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Old 04-05-2014, 08:20 AM   #41115
dazler
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Joined: Jul 2012
Location: Tx
Oddometer: 178
Quote:
Originally Posted by skian g View Post
I am running stock gearing 13-43 I bet our two methods are in the same ballpark.


Yes you're correct it's super easy. My fingers are about 1.75" across. This doesn't have to be an exact setting you really just need to be in the ballpark. I lift the chain up with left hand and put two fingers under it and if it's not just sitting on them and it's not smashing them together I call it good.
Mine two finger are about 1.46" so it looks like I have two use 3 but that about 1.83".
Is there a to big of a gap? 2" maybe?

Is much easier to do the rear wheel off the ground I guess how much impact that would have versus on the side stand.
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