Yamaha WR250R Mega Thread

[HighFive]

Originally Posted by Chadx

Excellent! Only comment so far is on the Stinkbug definition. My understanding seems to be the opposite of the Travis's.

Is there a possible difference in interpretation based on geography?

Dunno

He makes a living at it....I don't. So I figure I've had it backwards too. After hanging around his shop for several days and experiencing the benefits of his workmanship firsthand, I'm throwing in with him. Call me a Stinkbug Convert.

I think the important point is obviously the handling characteristics, not the name. Out of balance either direction can wreck havoc on the handling & stability qualities. Both scenarios are bad for a bike, but front high and rear low is definitely the worse of the two (IMO). Its creates a handling nightmare, and its the most common due to rider height issues (i.e. lack of inseam). Many just lower their back-end so they can reach the ground, and wind up with a bike significantly out of balance....creating too much Rake for their frame geometry, and get poor handling in return. Whatever its called, its a major no-no.

HF

[Chadx]

Originally Posted by tremor38

Anyone ever looked into the heated seat panels or chaps?

I think shewolf said she has a heated seat. Some one else, too. Maybe they will pipe up.

[Nice_Rumble]

Originally Posted by Chadx

Hmmm, several folks, in the last few pages, have said that 2" of lift required longer cables, narrowing the bars (cutting off bar ends), rotating controls, and/or rerouting cables. This seems to be different than what I've heard all along in this thread where, as I recall, several folks said adding 2" of rise (either through taller clamps or handlebar bend) was a bit tight but no problem. Did I miss something or was there a shift in the common understanding? Seeing as I was about to order new risers, bar clamps, and bars, these recent posts just saved me from making a mistake. Seems like around 1" is safe, but 2" requires work arounds or fixes to accomodate.

2" riser. No relocation of controls necessary.

[CopaMundial]

Getting back to the discussion of chaing guides from several pages back.
Are there people who don't have any wear on the lower surface of their chain guide?

I feel like there has to be something else at work here other than just a bunch of us with loose chains. A lot of the photos that I see on here have the characteristic shine on edge of the chain sideplates.
If the inside edge of your chain is shining up like that then that means it's wearing a groove in your chain guide, and as an FYI it's not going to stop there. Looking at my guide and several photos on here it seems that the wear pattern is deepest at the front of the swingarm, so if you see any grooves at the back end of that guide then the front is probably already gone.

I'll be replacing my guide with 7000 miles on the bike and watching my chain tension more closely. I felt like I was running it in a good range before, but now I'm going to have to go a little tighter than I wanted to.

[MiamiMotorcyclist]

Originally Posted by Chadx

Excellent! Looking forward to reading it in detail. Only comment so far is on the Stinkbug definition. My understanding seems to be the opposite of the Travis's. I have always used the term stinkbug stance to mean the rear of the object (bike, car, etc.) was taller than the front. Named because of the stance that stinkbugs take when disturbed. They slam their head to the ground and stick their but up in the air in preparation to letting loose, you guessed it, stink.

To quote a random stink bug description:
"The stink bug is infamous for its reaction when frightened or threatened by predators. When assaulted, the stink bug stands on its head, raises its rear, and sprays a noxious liquid at the attacking predator."

Is there a possible difference in interpretation based on geography? Don't all stink bugs do this? Or do some have a low-rider rear end?

Same here, always known stinkbug to mean rear high. My friend who was a champion hare scramble racer even called it stinkbug when I told him that the rear was high after going to d606s and before lowering the rear.


Probably a brain fart/ typo on Travis' part.

Good info though beyond that.

[MoBill]

Related to the chain guide question--I do have some polishing on the chain and some wear on the guide Copa.

I'm trying to line up the countershaft, suspension/swingarm linkage bolt hole and the rear axle.

It never looks even, no matter how high I jack it up or how low I put it the swingarm connector is always out of line with the countershaft and the rear axle. Pic coming....

[MoBill]

[router.exe]

Originally Posted by Nice_Rumble

2" riser. No relocation of controls necessary.

curious why you would got with riser blocks over a taller bar? that looks like it would make a weak point in a crash situation.

[MoBill]

Originally Posted by xjahx

I am relatively new to the WR250R, but it sounds like you may need to adjust your chain tension using Yamaha's TSB:

http://keysdog.com/YamahaWR/M2008-020.pdf

JAH

Can't seem to find this TSB anymore...

[MoBill]

Murphy.

I only have questions when I'm all torn down and stalled. I suck.

BTW, sidewinder 13T Front and 46T Rear.

[duanew1]

Originally Posted by MoBill

Looks straight enough for me.

[BluePill]

Originally Posted by MoBill

Related to the chain guide question--I do have some polishing on the chain and some wear on the guide Copa.

I'm trying to line up the countershaft, suspension/swingarm linkage bolt hole and the rear axle.

It never looks even, no matter how high I jack it up or how low I put it the swingarm connector is always out of line with the countershaft and the rear axle. Pic coming....

Not sure exactly what you are trying to do or why. IF you are trying to find the point where the chain is tightest as the swing arm travels up and down ( as suggested in a earlier post ) you want to get the center of the transmission shaft that the front sprocket mounts on (countershaft), the center of the rear axle bolt, and the center of the SWING ARM PIVOT BOLT (NOT the linkage bolt hole) all in a straight line. At that point you would want approx. 1" (25mm) slack in the chain at the mid point of the run between front and rear sprockets, measured by pushing first up then down firmly with one finger.

Hope this helps.

[MoBill]

Originally Posted by BluePill

Not sure exactly what you are trying to do or why. IF you are trying to find the point where the chain is tightest as the swing arm travels up and down ( as suggested in a earlier post ) you want to get the center of the transmission shaft that the front sprocket mounts on (countershaft), the center of the rear axle bolt, and the center of the SWING ARM PIVOT BOLT (NOT the linkage bolt hole) all in a straight line. At that point you would want approx. 1" (25mm) slack in the chain at the mid point of the run between front and rear sprockets, measured by pushing first up then down firmly with one finger.

Hope this helps.

I'm trying to do what kyns and montesa said needs to be done first to make sure that the chain is adjusted right to start out.

What you wrote helps, yes--first times always suck for me. I'm not intuitive this way. I was trying to line up the linkage bolt and not the swing arm pivot...so good to go now.

Now, I'm measuring 1'' on top of the swingarm because the bottom has the rear guid in the way, and 1" scares me as too tight.

BUT, I'm all ears brother.

[MoBill]

I'm tracking now, this is where the chain is tightest, so 1" is fine.

I'm gonna button up.

[Chadx]

Originally Posted by MoBill

Can't seem to find this TSB anymore...

Message sent. I can email you a copy. Pax was nice enough to send me a copy a while back.