Yamaha WR250R Mega Thread

[Gargoyle]

Originally Posted by johnnyandjebus

This baby pulls great and it definitely feels lighter than my DR350.

Gargoyle

I would love to read your thoughts on a comparision between the 2 bikes. I currently own a dr350, after all I have read here I am starting to think the wr250r might be a worthy replacement over the drz400.

I tell you that coming off my '99 DR350, which I really liked, had me a little worried if the WR would haul my 195lbs around OK. I now have 230 miles on and the WR seems to be breaking in quite well. There are absolutely no concerns about this motor being able to haul my ass ... I have hit 80mph easily on the road (I am sure it will do over 90mph now) and it's got great grunt in the dirt.

I have an FMF pipe/muffler on order (had one on my DR too) and I have heard from 2 other current WR250R/X owners with that setup that performance improves throughout the range even more.

The engine and suspension are unbelievable for a 250 dual sport bike. Much lighter feel when riding than the DR350. I realize it's a bit expensive, but sometimes "you get what you pay for." I love this bike.

[Reposado1800]

What is the part number for the 250R/X oil filter? Nobody seems to have online microfiche up for these bikes yet.

[Sock Monkey]

Originally Posted by rdnakx250

What is the part number for the 250R/X oil filter? Nobody seems to have online microfiche up for these bikes yet.

I'm at work right now, but when I get home I'll get the part number off the box and post here. Stay tuned....

-NoVector

[Sock Monkey]

Originally Posted by velosprocket

NoVector,

Since you own basically all the bikes I'm targeting right now....

If you could only have one, which one would you choose? I was dead set on a DRZ400, but now I'm looking at the WR. The used KTM market seems good now too. I'm really having a hard time.

I love the thought of FI, but the 250 at altitude....

The DRZ is heavy.

The KTM requires more maintenance.

I'd love to pick your brain. Shoot me PM, or reply here.

Thanks,

Velo

Hey Velo,

I'll reply here since I'm sure there are others out there with the same (or similar) question. Hell, I was one of them!

I think it boils down to how do you want to use the bike. That's what it came down to for me. What I was looking for was a fun, small(ish) (both size and weight....I want to put it on my Jack-Rack on the back of my Yukon and haul it around if needed), low maintenance (sorry, I know folks are tired of hearing that, but with little kids at home, I barely have time to ride, I don't want to spend that time wrenching), capable bike that I could take mainly off-road (so that's why I didn't get the X, but after playing with this thing on-road, there are SuMo wheels in my future ), but was street legal out of the box so there would be no worries regarding plates here in Kommiefornia.

With that combo of "wants", my choices were really the DRZ (had one, loved it, just too heavy...more on that in a minute), the WRR, and the KLX-S. I had the KTM and loved it, but 500 mile oil changes with 2 screens to clean and worries about the tranny going "boom" from riding it on-road (KTM put the fear into us saying the gears weren't meant for the street, even with a cush drive, blah blah blah, and I didn't want to risk it ) kept me away from another one. Plus, the EXC250 isn't available in the US, and I was looking for a 250 (more on that in a minute also). I checked out the KLXS, but was put off by the reports of the lack of power, the not-so-great fit and finish, and the smallish ergos (I looked at one at the San Mateo Int'l Motorcycle show). I also checked out the Husky TE250. What a nice looking bike! Problem is, they're hard as hell to find, and given what I paid for the WRR, nearly $2k more expensive (yes, I got the deal of the decade....). Of course, there's always the maintenance question again, but I've never owned a Husky, so I can't speak to recommended oil service, etc., but I've heard it's more in line with dirt bike schedules (500-1000 mile recommended oil change, valve check, etc.) versus road bike schedules (3k oil, 20k valve, etc.).

OK, on to the controversial topic of weight. Here we go. I'll put my flame-retardant suit on right after I hit "submit"... So, I've come to have new respect for what I thought was complete BS: dynamic weight. We all know what static weight is. It's how much the damn thing weighs on a scale. Going by that, my DRZ was actually lighter than the WRR (mine was the E model, so 10lbs lighter than the WRR), and my KTM was more than 20lbs lighter. Both felt heavier than the WRR when riding. Others can probably explain this much better than I can, but apparently all that rotating mass of the bigger bikes makes them "feel" heavier, even if they are in fact lighter. Even folks in the industry (Dirt Bike, Dirt Rider, etc.) talk about bigger displacement bikes feeling heavier. Well, I thought it was crap until now. All I know is the WRR feels like the lightest of my 3 recent "dirt" bikes (WRR, KTM, DRZ) when riding it, and I don't notice much of a difference lifting it onto my stand or pushing it around the garage. OK, let the war begin!

Finally, I have to say that I'm just impressed as heck with what the WRR comes with. 46mm KYB forks with compression/rebound adjust, and comp/reb adjust on the Soqi shock. Nice stuff for a dual-sport bike. My impression so far is you could take the WRR on a MX track and not blow through the suspension on every little bump/jump. Sure, you'll probably bang it off the stops over 80ft gaps, but that's not it's mission. Then there's the FI. It's pretty dang good! It was a little snatchy at first at really low throttle openings, but as the bike loosens up, it's smoothing out nicely. Fit and finish of components seem very good. And last but not least, even with my 200+lbs (with gear) on it's back, it hauls the mail! The only way you could convince me it's a 250cc 4-stroke is by the lack of low-end punch compared to the DRZ400, or to an even greater extent, the KTM520. But then, how could it match those bikes in torque? It's only 250cc! If you want more torque, go to a bigger motor (and pay the "dynamic weight" price). Me, I'm happy on the WRR, and if I want a bit more low end, I'll go up 2 teeth on the rear and call it a day. I don't need to go 95mph on the freeway on this bike anyway.

If I could have only one? Well, I do only have one now, and it's the WRR.

I hope this helps.

-NoVector

[velosprocket]

Originally Posted by NoVector

Hey Velo,

I'll reply here since I'm sure there are others out there with the same (or similar) question. Hell, I was one of them!

I think it boils down to how do you want to use the bike. That's what it came down to for me. What I was looking for was a fun, small(ish) (both size and weight....I want to put it on my Jack-Rack on the back of my Yukon and haul it around if needed), low maintenance (sorry, I know folks are tired of hearing that, but with little kids at home, I barely have time to ride, I don't want to spend that time wrenching), capable bike that I could take mainly off-road (so that's why I didn't get the X, but after playing with this thing on-road, there are SuMo wheels in my future ), but was street legal out of the box so there would be no worries regarding plates here in Kommiefornia.

With that combo of "wants", my choices were really the DRZ (had one, loved it, just too heavy...more on that in a minute), the WRR, and the KLX-S. I had the KTM and loved it, but 500 mile oil changes with 2 screens to clean and worries about the tranny going "boom" from riding it on-road (KTM put the fear into us saying the gears weren't meant for the street, even with a cush drive, blah blah blah, and I didn't want to risk it ) kept me away from another one. Plus, the EXC250 isn't available in the US, and I was looking for a 250 (more on that in a minute also). That left the Husky TE250. What a nice looking bike! Problem is, they're hard as hell to find, and given what I paid for the WRR, nearly $2k more expensive (yes, I got the deal of the decade....). Of course, there's always the maintenance question again, but I've never owned a Husky, so I can't speak to recommended oil service, etc., but I've heard it's more in line with dirt bike schedules (500-1000 mile recommended oil change, valve check, etc.) versus road bike schedules (3k oil, 20k valve, etc.).

OK, on to the controversial topic of weight. Here we go. I'll put my flame-retardant suit on right after I hit "submit"... So, I've come to have new respect for what I thought was complete BS: dynamic weight. We all know what static weight is. It's how much the damn thing weighs on a scale. Going by that, my DRZ was actually lighter than the WRR (mine was the E model, so 10lbs lighter than the WRR), and my KTM was more than 20lbs lighter. Both felt heavier than the WRR when riding. Others can probably explain this much better than I can, but apparently all that rotating mass of the bigger bikes makes them "feel" heavier, even if they are in fact lighter. Even folks in the industry (Dirt Bike, Dirt Rider, etc.) talk about bigger displacement bikes feeling heavier. Well, I thought it was crap until now. All I know is the WRR feels like the lightest of my 3 recent "dirt" bikes (WRR, KTM, DRZ) when riding it, and I don't notice much of a difference lifting it onto my stand or pushing it around the garage. OK, let the war begin!

Finally, I have to say that I'm just impressed as heck with what the WRR comes with. 46mm KYB forks with compression/rebound adjust, and comp/reb adjust on the Soqi shock. Nice stuff for a dual-sport bike. My impression so far is you could take the WRR on a MX track and not blow through the suspension on every little bump/jump. Sure, you'll probably bang it off the stops over 80ft gaps, but that's not it's mission. Then there's the FI. It's pretty dang good! It was a little snatchy at first at really low throttle openings, but as the bike loosens up, it's smoothing out nicely. Fit and finish of components seem very good. And last but not least, even with my 200+lbs (with gear) on it's back, it hauls the mail! The only way you could convince me it's a 250cc 4-stroke is by the lack of low-end punch compared to the DRZ400, or to an even greater extent, the KTM520. But then, how could it match those bikes in torque? It's only 250cc! If you want more torque, go to a bigger motor (and pay the "dynamic weight" price). Me, I'm happy on the WRR, and if I want a bit more low end, I'll go up 2 teeth on the rear and call it a day. I don't need to go 95mph on the freeway on this bike anyway.

If I could have only one? Well, I do only have one now, and it's the WRR.

I hope this helps.

-NoVector

Very nice, thank you!

I'm going to look at another used DRZ tonight. Of course it's used, and 3500 less OTD than the WRR. But still, the 250 has my interest. The fuel infection is nice. I ride locally at 5000 ft, to 12,000 ft in the same day.

[MiamiMotorcyclist]

Originally Posted by NoVector

Hey Velo,

I'll reply here since I'm sure there are others out there with the same (or similar) question. Hell, I was one of them!

I think it boils down to how do you want to use the bike. That's what it came down to for me. What I was looking for was a fun, small(ish) (both size and weight....

If I could have only one? Well, I do only have one now, and it's the WRR.

I hope this helps.

-NoVector

Thanks for replying in the thread.

If there were a wrr available around here I'd have a real tough decision to make.

Like which bike to sell so I could have it NOW.

I think I could live with out the low end for the overall performance, and ease of maint.

[Sock Monkey]

Originally Posted by rdnakx250

What is the part number for the 250R/X oil filter? Nobody seems to have online microfiche up for these bikes yet.

OK, here you go. I included a pic since the smaller number might be useful for some bizarre reason...... The filter is really small. For those old enough to remember film cameras (you know who you are.... ), it's about the size of one of those little plastic containers that holds the roll of film.



The filters run about $6.

-NoVector

[reconsmr]

NV, if your oil is that dark at 53 miles you might want to stick to a 25 mile oil change schedule!!!

Seriously, with all due respect,,,

WTF did you do to it??? I've done 3k street miles on a 520 RFS and the oil came out lookin more like oil than that, if the pic is giving a real quality color. Looks like alot of clutch abuse would be needed to get it that dark/burnt that quickly, I guess you allude to that with the needed adjustment. Given the tiny filter I'd be more worried about this engine than a RFS with 2 paper & 2 screens.

My bro's 250 RFS needs a clutch pounding in A+ enduro terrain & pace, I'm guessing this bike is needing the same to really get going?

That KTM EXC250RFS is wind limited at about 73-74 MPH, and it is a pooch, even when the jetting is spot on. It is hard to believe these are pushing 90 MPH when my +50 HP SMR 450 Husky is just getting to 100 MPH??? That 30 HP must be some special stuff???

[norshor1]

Originally Posted by reconsmr

NV, if your oil is that dark at 53 miles you might want to stick to a 25 mile oil change schedule!!!

Seriously, with all due respect,,,

WTF did you do to it??? I've done 3k street miles on a 520 RFS and the oil came out lookin more like oil than that, if the pic is giving a real quality color. Looks like alot of clutch abuse would be needed to get it that dark/burnt that quickly, I guess you allude to that with the needed adjustment. Given the tiny filter I'd be more worried about this engine than a RFS with 2 paper & 2 screens.

My bro's 250 RFS needs a clutch pounding in A+ enduro terrain & pace, I'm guessing this bike is needing the same to really get going?

That KTM EXC250RFS is wind limited at about 73-74 MPH, and it is a pooch, even when the jetting is spot on. It is hard to believe these are pushing 90 MPH when my +50 HP SMR 450 Husky is just getting to 100 MPH??? That 30 HP must be some special stuff???

my wr250r's speedometer is 6 miles per hour off @ 80 mph. according to my gps. the gps says 74mph.

[reconsmr]

Is that your top speed too, it would line up more with my experience with that HP level and wind/air resistance. Thanks.

[Sock Monkey]

Originally Posted by reconsmr

NV, if your oil is that dark at 53 miles you might want to stick to a 25 mile oil change schedule!!!

Seriously, with all due respect,,,

WTF did you do to it??? I've done 3k street miles on a 520 RFS and the oil came out lookin more like oil than that, if the pic is giving a real quality color. Looks like alot of clutch abuse would be needed to get it that dark/burnt that quickly, I guess you allude to that with the needed adjustment. Given the tiny filter I'd be more worried about this engine than a RFS with 2 paper & 2 screens.

My bro's 250 RFS needs a clutch pounding in A+ enduro terrain & pace, I'm guessing this bike is needing the same to really get going?

I did hard accel/decel in each gear, staying clear of the rev limit. I wasn't abusing the clutch to get it moving, there's no need. While the oil was darker than I expected (yep, that was the actual color), I expected relative "shine" in it from the parts mashing together, and that was present as well.

Notice that my other current ride is a BMW GS. Those have a dry clutch. If you want them to last, you learn really quickly to go easy on the clutch, and I do. I guess time will tell if I hurt it....

Originally Posted by reconsmr

That KTM EXC250RFS is wind limited at about 73-74 MPH, and it is a pooch, even when the jetting is spot on. It is hard to believe these are pushing 90 MPH when my +50 HP SMR 450 Husky is just getting to 100 MPH??? That 30 HP must be some special stuff???

Every reviewer/owner of the WRR has reported a top speed in excess of 90mph. I've not had mine up that high because I want to stay clear of max revs until it's completely broken in, but I don't have any reason to believe that all of these reports are bogus. The bike will do 65 easily in 4th gear, so I've got to think that it can add 25 mph to that with those last 2 gears and a bunch more revs.

-NoVector

[reconsmr]

Its hard to believe based on more powerful bikes not able to go much faster is all. Indicated 90+ is not necessarilly 90+ in real speed.

GPS indicated on a 2008 530 EXC, JD jetted with Pirelli Scorpions was 107 in a full tuck with a tailwind, that is a 50 HP bike. My own SMR450 will just crack 100, again +50 HP and sitting mostly upright. These bikes aren't gear limited, its the HP fighting the wind resistance, 30 HP is still 30 HP, don't matter if it has a 21 speed trans, it has to overcome huge force of that resistance.

I know this bike isn't cracking 40 HP like my KTM 250SX-F.

Who has a GPS measured top speed?

RPMs at 80 in 6th?

[nachtflug]

Originally Posted by reconsmr

Its hard to believe based on more powerful bikes not able to go much faster is all. Indicated 90+ is not necessarilly 90+ in real speed.

GPS indicated on a 2008 530 EXC, JD jetted with Pirelli Scorpions was 107 in a full tuck with a tailwind, that is a 50 HP bike. My own SMR450 will just crack 100, again +50 HP and sitting mostly upright. These bikes aren't gear limited, its the HP fighting the wind resistance, 30 HP is still 30 HP, don't matter if it has a 21 speed trans, it has to overcome huge force of that resistance.

I know this bike isn't cracking 40 HP like my KTM 250SX-F.

Who has a GPS measured top speed?

RPMs at 80 in 6th?

I had mine up to 101.

[reconsmr]

That is GPS confirmed????









or in the back of the truck?

[montesa_vr]

Originally Posted by reconsmr

Its hard to believe based on more powerful bikes not able to go much faster is all. Indicated 90+ is not necessarilly 90+ in real speed.

RPMs at 80 in 6th?

Kawasaki's Ninja 250 only puts out 27 hp and it just went 92 mph for Cycle World's road test. (June 2008)

By my calculations [RPM= ((Final Gear Ratio * 168) * MPH) / Radius] the WRR would be turning 8,074 rpm at 80 in sixth, but possibly the radius of the rear tire isn't a full 13.5", in which case it would be turning slightly higher, possibly a few hundred rpm higher.

Anyway, if you were going for a top speed run, you would probably rev it all the way to 10,000 rpm in 5th, so you'd be going approximately 88 mph before you shifted into 6th.