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Old 12-11-2009, 01:00 AM   #9121
Don T
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Thumb Thanks dmule

Quote:
Originally Posted by dmulk
For your #2: This is how I did my Safari install last week. Just connected it directly to the TB vacuum line port after removing all of the lines from the AIS and SMOG crap.

Another question answered
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Old 12-11-2009, 03:05 AM   #9122
greer
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Resistor Servo Sub

Don T,

Here's a couple of threads about Question # 4:

http://www.thumpertalk.com/forum/sho...d.php?t=793736

http://www.thumpertalk.com/forum/sho...d.php?t=849081


Sarah
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Old 12-11-2009, 04:27 AM   #9123
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dmulk
For your #2: This is how I did my Safari install last week. Just connected it directly to the TB vacuum line port after removing all of the lines from the AIS and SMOG crap.


dmulk (or any Safari owner)

Is this the same port we capped when we did the Flapper mod?? Just want to be sure. I may get myself a tank for Christmas but I'm a bit leery of the install, it looks plenty complicated. Thanks.

Sarah
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Old 12-11-2009, 04:48 AM   #9124
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jäger
Me too... same reasons.

Maybe it's a Montana thing...
I'm still running the stock air brake/tag holder set up too.

There aren't a lot of dual sports in Miami so I figure the stock look is good for saying, "I was made this way, not 'converted' for street....officer."
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Old 12-11-2009, 04:56 AM   #9125
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Quote:
Originally Posted by greer
dmulk (or any Safari owner)

Is this the same port we capped when we did the Flapper mod?? Just want to be sure. I may get myself a tank for Christmas but I'm a bit leery of the install, it looks plenty complicated. Thanks.

Sarah
I am almost positive that it is, I haven't disconnected my flapper so I just T'd into the line. Safari even provided a straight fitting for those who have disconnected theirs though.

It is that line, I'd just have to have removed my flapper before I would claim to be 100%, so I leave it at "almost positive."

It is a very easy install. I was a bit nervous about it too but it's easy, easy, easy.

The instructions are pretty good and the thread on thumpertalk is helpful too.
http://www.thumpertalk.com/forum/sho...d.php?t=796340
Go through the whole thread, I added some pictures of the only part that isn't explained that well- the metal baffle.

Also any of us will chime in if you have any questions.



Did I say that it was an easy install? Just take your time, it pretty much only goes together one way.
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Old 12-11-2009, 04:57 AM   #9126
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Quote:
Originally Posted by greer

I think that I'll just use a resister, as I can't see any reason why a sup servo should make the engine run better and make a gain in fuel consumption (as mentioned by some) compared with just a resister..?

By the way - the under seat area is now cleaned up with all the unnecessary parts removed:


As it looks like the O2 sensor will not fit in the FMF (as far as I know the only brand that makes both can and header for the WRR), I think that I'll just get another can with a hole for the sensor and fit it on the std. header - If I do that, can I still use the FMF programmer?

Tonny
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Old 12-11-2009, 05:04 AM   #9127
Don T
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Quote:
Originally Posted by greer
dmulk (or any Safari owner)

Is this the same port we capped when we did the Flapper mod?? Just want to be sure. I may get myself a tank for Christmas but I'm a bit leery of the install, it looks plenty complicated. Thanks.

Sarah
It is the same port.

No need to worry about the install of the Safari tank - it take some time to do, but is pretty straight forward.
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Old 12-11-2009, 06:14 AM   #9128
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Thank you Miami and Don T--- I'm feeling much better about the Safari install.

And Don T-- The resistor trick was easy as pie and works like a charm, or at least so far so good. And I do believe you can use the programmer regardless of the pipe.

Sarah
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Old 12-11-2009, 07:04 AM   #9129
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Quote:
Originally Posted by greer
I may get myself a tank for Christmas but I'm a bit leery of the install, it looks plenty complicated. Thanks.

Sarah
Wow, Sarah... you must must really be good to Santa to be looking for a Safari tank under the tree!!!

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Old 12-11-2009, 07:09 AM   #9130
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nice_Rumble
I found room here for the 3CS even with all stock components. This position gives quick access to check fuses. I tucked the relay under the vacuum line to the air box lid and the relay fuse next to the left frame rail heading to + power on the battery. All connections to existing wiring or 3CS I used Posi-Taps with labels.
http://www.easternbeaver.com/Main/El...posi-lock.html
You can also pick up + or - power from the battery relay.







Nice_Rumble... where'd you tap in the blue relay switch wire? I see it there in your photo but can't tell where its terminated.

Thanks!!
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Old 12-11-2009, 07:13 AM   #9131
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Don T


As it looks like the O2 sensor will not fit in the FMF (as far as I know the only brand that makes both can and header for the WRR), I think that I'll just get another can with a hole for the sensor and fit it on the std. header - If I do that, can I still use the FMF programmer?

Tonny
I had the same problem, when i installed my Leo Vince and Power commander. You can remove the O2 sensor, there are no plugs available for the O2 wire. But i removed mine and NO warning light came on. I e mailed Dynojet back in summer about if their commander works in the European WRR models. And they said if there is no warning lights going on, it should be fine. And it is fine, my bike works great wthout the O2 sensor.

If you install an aftermarket exhaust, you allso need to get the fuelling correct with a Power commander, FMF programmer...

Sooo, you can get the FMF pipe too without the hole for the sensor.

From Dynojet they allso said, that a commander should work with the O2 sensor connected. But then the O2 sensor will correct/ruin about 20% of the changes a programmer is trying to do.


Ps. If you choose to get the new PC5, you need hole for the sensor.


About the programmers: I chose the PC3, because it has way more adjusting possibilities than the FMF programmer, which i think can only richen the fuelling. ( there is minus numbers in my fuel map here and there, so... )

Hope this helps.

kyns screwed with this post 12-11-2009 at 07:50 AM
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Old 12-11-2009, 07:14 AM   #9132
greer
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Quote:
Originally Posted by malibu_dan
Wow, Sarah... you must must really be good to Santa to be looking for a Safari tank under the tree!!!


Nope, nothing to do with good, me and Santa happen to share the same credit card!

Sarah
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Old 12-11-2009, 07:41 AM   #9133
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Don T, if you get a pipe and a commander/... Open up the air box too. Here is what i did to mine. Removed the air box lid completely, to make room for the commander and AIR!!

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Old 12-11-2009, 07:58 AM   #9134
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bash3r
Nice_Rumble... where'd you tap in the blue relay switch wire? I see it there in your photo but can't tell where its terminated.

Thanks!!
I snaked the 3CS blue relay trigger wire around under the tip over sensor and out under the left frame rail to the blue rear tail light wire. It is the large blue Posi-Tap with the blue OEM tail light wire running through it.

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Old 12-11-2009, 08:09 AM   #9135
bash3r
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nice_Rumble
I snaked the 3CS blue relay trigger wire around under the tip over sensor and out under the left frame rail to the blue rear tail light wire. It is the large blue Posi-Tap with the blue OEM tail light wire running through it.

Perfect thx!!
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