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Old 01-24-2010, 08:06 AM   #10201
Chadx
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Location: Bozeman, Montana
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That HC2 Lift Stand looks nice, but the max capacity is only 330lbs. I guess it would work fine for the R, but I tend to shy away from using any item near its capacity. Plus, I'm looking for a lift that I can use with other (read: heavier) bikes. For higher weight limits, I'm guessing I'll have to go with a stand that requires jacking rather than a single, smooth levered lift like the lighter duty stands. The side benefit to those is they usually have a larger range of motion. They start out shorter and can raise higher, getting the bike up to a better working level and also being able to creep under a lower clearance bike than the HC2s 9" minimum. I'm liking the looks of the ATV lift that eakins posted. Lot's of versatility with that, it seems.
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Old 01-24-2010, 08:10 AM   #10202
Nice_Rumble
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chadx
I'm liking the looks of the ATV lift that eakins posted. Lot's of versatility with that, it seems.
I have this one. Sears occasionally puts them on sale for $150.

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_1...Lift+Equipment
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Old 01-24-2010, 08:30 AM   #10203
Chadx
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I went to mount up my highway dirt bike lower bar clamps yesterday and the bolt is too long to allow any sockets or other tools to hold it while tightening from the top with the allen socket. Ideally, I'd like to get the correct bolt length, but was thinking of just taking a hack saw to the bolt to get the correct length. I'm a bit concerned that these might be hardened bolts and a hack saw will have a hard time with them. Then again, maybe not.

Since hacking bolts isn't something I'm real familiar with, anyone have any input? Any issues with doing this? If I touch up the start of the threads, starting the nut shouldn't be an issue, correct? Ideally, I just want 2 or 3 thread grooves sticking out past the end of the nut. Currently, there were 8 or 9 showing which does not allow a socket to seat. A deep dish socket won't work due to other clearance issues nor will an open end wrench. vice grips, adjustable wrench, etc. Only a short socket will clear other components and with the bolt too long, the bolt pushes the socket off the nut as I get it tightened down. I do not want to have to raise the top triple clamp to get in there if I can at all help it.

This is the same issue s3hoop posted way back on post 6581.
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showp...postcount=6581

This is his pic and shows how a longer bolt can cause issues tightening.

Chadx screwed with this post 01-24-2010 at 09:13 AM
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Old 01-24-2010, 08:45 AM   #10204
gordo5
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I have one of those ATV lifts and a basic foot lift and I find that while the ATV lift works well, it's large, bulky and cumbersome, so I only dig it out of the corner of the garage for my larger bike. For the WRR, I always just grab the little one because it's quick and easy... plus I use a lift on it a lot more. YMMV.

That HC2 one looks sweet and if I was shopping today I'd probably go that route. As it stands (no pun intended), I'm too cheap to replace the one I've got, since it works fine.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Chadx
That HC2 Lift Stand looks nice, but the max capacity is only 330lbs. I guess it would work fine for the R, but I tend to shy away from using any item near its capacity. Plus, I'm looking for a lift that I can use with other (read: heavier) bikes. For higher weight limits, I'm guessing I'll have to go with a stand that requires jacking rather than a single, smooth levered lift like the lighter duty stands. The side benefit to those is they usually have a larger range of motion. They start out shorter and can raise higher, getting the bike up to a better working level and also being able to creep under a lower clearance bike than the HC2s 9" minimum. I'm liking the looks of the ATV lift that eakins posted. Lot's of versatility with that, it seems.
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Old 01-24-2010, 08:54 AM   #10205
AZ TOM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chadx
I went to mount up my highway dirt bike lower bar clamps yesterday and the bolt is too long to allow any sockets or other tools to hold it while tightening from the top with the allen socket. Ideally, I'd like to get the correct bolt length, but was thinking of just taking a hack saw to the bolt to get the correct length. I'm a bit concerned that these might be hardened bolts and a hack saw will have a hard time with them. Then again, maybe not.

Since hacking bolts isn't something I'm real familiar with, anyone have any input? Any issues with doing this? If I touch up the start of the threads, starting the nut shouldn't be an issue, correct? Ideally, I just want 2 or 3 thread grooves sticking out past the end of the nut. Currently, there were 8 or 9 showing which does not allow a socket to seat. A deep dish socket won't work due to other clearance issues nor will an open end wrench. vice grips, adjustable wrench, etc. Only a short socket will clear other components and with the bolt too long, the bolt pushes the socket off the nut as I get it tightened down. I do not want to have to raise the top triple clamp to get in there if I can at all help it.

This is the same issue s3hoop posted way back on post 6581.
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showp...postcount=6581

This is his pick and how a longer bolt can cause issues tightening.
Check out True Value. They have quite an assortment.
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Old 01-24-2010, 08:54 AM   #10206
gordo5
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Chopping a bolt usually butchers the thread, as you've said. I've never tried this, but it occurred to me that if you do, you might want to thread on the correct size die beforehand so that you can work it off the bolt afterwards. Like I said, just an idea.

I'm sure a hacksaw would do it, but I'd probably use a die grinder. A dremmel might do, but would likely take a while and a lot of disks.

Other than that just take it to a hardware store. I'm sure its a standard metric size so you could just get a shorter one.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Chadx
Ideally, I'd like to get the correct bolt length, but was thinking of just taking a hack saw to the bolt to get the correct length. I'm a bit concerned that these might be hardened bolts and a hack saw will have a hard time with them. Then again, maybe not.

Since hacking bolts isn't something I'm real familiar with, anyone have any input? Any issues with doing this? If I touch up the start of the threads, starting the nut shouldn't be an issue, correct?
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Old 01-24-2010, 08:57 AM   #10207
AZ TOM
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The shop manual list fork fluid amount at 20.73 onces. I am assuming thats total & not each?
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Old 01-24-2010, 09:18 AM   #10208
JensEskildsen
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Joined: Mar 2009
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20.73 is kinda hard to divide on 2 isn't it?

Not beeing 1) a smartass or 2) a wrr owner.

Just thinking, and trying to remeber math classes =)
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Old 01-24-2010, 09:32 AM   #10209
ramz
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Joined: Dec 2006
Location: Salida, CO
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Quote:
I went to mount up my highway dirt bike lower bar clamps yesterday and the bolt is too long to allow any sockets or other tools to hold it while tightening from the top with the allen socket.
The picture shows the right side bolt; the left side does not have the same frame protrusion and can easily be done with a long socket.

For the right side, if you turn the handlebars full right, the frame protrusion does not interfere, but it's tight quarters to get a long socket on.

I did not use the HDB kit, and my bolts were the correct length with very little extra threads showing. I used a short socket but had a long extension (6"), so my clearance need was probably not as severe as with a long-reach socket.
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Old 01-24-2010, 09:45 AM   #10210
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manual

Got it. Many thanks for this!


Quote:
Originally Posted by lukachuki
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Old 01-24-2010, 10:43 AM   #10211
bash3r
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Location: Wentzville, MO
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chadx
I went to mount up my highway dirt bike lower bar clamps yesterday and the bolt is too long to allow any sockets or other tools to hold it while tightening from the top with the allen socket. Ideally, I'd like to get the correct bolt length, but was thinking of just taking a hack saw to the bolt to get the correct length. I'm a bit concerned that these might be hardened bolts and a hack saw will have a hard time with them. Then again, maybe not.

Since hacking bolts isn't something I'm real familiar with, anyone have any input? Any issues with doing this? If I touch up the start of the threads, starting the nut shouldn't be an issue, correct? Ideally, I just want 2 or 3 thread grooves sticking out past the end of the nut. Currently, there were 8 or 9 showing which does not allow a socket to seat. A deep dish socket won't work due to other clearance issues nor will an open end wrench. vice grips, adjustable wrench, etc. Only a short socket will clear other components and with the bolt too long, the bolt pushes the socket off the nut as I get it tightened down. I do not want to have to raise the top triple clamp to get in there if I can at all help it.

This is the same issue s3hoop posted way back on post 6581.
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showp...postcount=6581

This is his pic and shows how a longer bolt can cause issues tightening.
Chadx, if you do decide to cut the bolt make sure you screw the nut onto the bolt before cutting. This way when you are done hacking it off you can remove the bold which will do a much better job of cleaning up the threads that were cut.

Also, I have a slew of bolts if you want to try them. How long do you think the correct length of the bolt should be with your bottom clamps?? I maybe able to hook you up.

As Ramz said, the left side was very easy to remove/install but the right side i had to turn the bars to the right to get the wrench or socket on the nut. I have video of how I did it if you wanna see it.

Hit me back.. you probably got 100mm bolt with yours and i got a box of 70mm bolts that you are welcome to a couple of them, they are what HDB sent me.
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Old 01-24-2010, 10:52 AM   #10212
BluePill
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gordo5
I have one of those ATV lifts and a basic foot lift and I find that while the ATV lift works well, it's large, bulky and cumbersome, so I only dig it out of the corner of the garage for my larger bike. For the WRR, I always just grab the little one because it's quick and easy... plus I use a lift on it a lot more. YMMV.

That HC2 one looks sweet and if I was shopping today I'd probably go that route. As it stands (no pun intended), I'm too cheap to replace the one I've got, since it works fine.
This is why I like the smaller, lighter stand: Stores in minimal space, easy to to just slip under and raise in 10 seconds. Being a WRR and not one of those other (think Orange) bikes, it's 95% used for chain maintenance. Also small & light to throw in the "support vehicle". If only for WRR or similar, I think what gordo said applies. If you'll ever need it for a heavier bike, I agree that the larger type is likely the best investment.
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Old 01-24-2010, 11:13 AM   #10213
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lukachuki
It's pretty simple. When you upload files to Photobucket just click on the more options button before upload. You can then choose what size you want them to resize ALL the pics you upload. Very Fast.
That did it - Thanks
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Old 01-24-2010, 12:01 PM   #10214
AZ TOM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JensEskildsen
20.73 is kinda hard to divide on 2 isn't it?

Not beeing 1) a smartass or 2) a wrr owner.

Just thinking, and trying to remeber math classes =)
Well just call it 10 & change
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Old 01-24-2010, 02:06 PM   #10215
slomo
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Zeta handguards and LED Protectors for sale

Anybody looking for a set of Zeta handguards with the LED protectors?
I have a set for sale......
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showt...6#post11971976

thanks
tm
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