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Old 12-16-2011, 04:22 AM   #991
mike-s
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Ok, I had a bash and I think I need to do 2 things:
One is prepare the area more thoroughly, grind the spot to be welded so it is raw/new metal
Second i seriously need to read a lot of the "ask welding questions" thread as well as watch some videos/read books just to try and get more of a knack of doing this.

I can tell thus far that it is a craptonne easier using a MIG than a stick, The gasless mig is still a hell of a lot tidier than a stick too. Ii especially like the "if the trigger ain't pulled, it don't go zap" that goes along with mig.
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Old 12-16-2011, 07:16 AM   #992
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Originally Posted by Mambo Dave View Post

Have any ideas for a cheap way to fish-mouth the ends of tubing? I know Harbor Freight sells a cheaper tool (which probably isn't worth it) and real tubing notchers are too expensive, so I may just try cutting two angles off of each end with an angle-grinder or Dremel, then grinding the contour.
If you're going to do very much of this, a good TN-100 from JDsquared is worth the $200. But if you want cheap, download tubemiter.exe. It lets you print out a paper template of the fishmouth to wrap around your tube, so you can use whatever tool to trim to shape.
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Old 12-16-2011, 07:48 AM   #993
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Originally Posted by Mambo Dave View Post
Have any ideas for a cheap way to fish-mouth the ends of tubing? I know Harbor Freight sells a cheaper tool (which probably isn't worth it) and real tubing notchers are too expensive, so I may just try cutting two angles off of each end with an angle-grinder or Dremel, then grinding the contour.

I have a tube notcher that I don't ever use because this is faster:

http://pirate4x4.com/forum/showpost....86&postcount=1
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Old 12-16-2011, 07:59 AM   #994
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Originally Posted by larryboy View Post
I have a tube notcher that I don't ever use because this is faster:

http://pirate4x4.com/forum/showpost....86&postcount=1
exactly the method i was gonna use. Thanks!
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Old 12-16-2011, 01:24 PM   #995
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EnduroRdr,

Very impressive bending & welding.


I only have a Lincoln AC/DC hotbox stick welder. I've thought about trying the Harbor Frt Tig adaptor for more dilicate work than is practical with a stick. I know it probably wouldn't do well for aluminum, since it's not an inverter welder, but maybe it would work okay for steel and maybe stainless. I don't know, but it allows you to use shielding gas & the tungsten electrode. Might work...
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Old 12-16-2011, 10:28 PM   #996
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Originally Posted by Mambo Dave View Post
This ring looks like aluminum?

That headlight housing is true art, Enduro.

I am using an Imperial 364-FHA-10 bender, and chose 5/8" OD steel tubing. Wow, what a painful choice that choice in tubing was... it took me weeks of asking steel supply places if they had any, or could get me some cheaply.

Have any ideas for a cheap way to fish-mouth the ends of tubing? I know Harbor Freight sells a cheaper tool (which probably isn't worth it) and real tubing notchers are too expensive, so I may just try cutting two angles off of each end with an angle-grinder or Dremel, then grinding the contour.
I also have an Imperial bender for 5/8, that's the largest one I have - currently making dies for 3/4 tubing to use on an "ornamental metal bender" so I don't have to pay someone to make my tight radius bends. 5/8 is a very uncommon size for steels probably why your suppliers are slow in getting it (I work in HVAC industry and my 5/8 benders get used a lot with copper). Bending stainless steel gets difficult when doing it by hand in the larger diameters.

My headlight cage (and the bag racks) are all made from stainless steel. We use it fairly often for industrial jobs and I can usually get cutoffs or drops left over for my bike projects (sometimes I may have to wait quite a while for longer pieces to come along).

I also have a small machine shop so usually I do my notching (fish mouth) on the milling machine. But I also have had pretty good results doing the angle cuts "chop saw" and finish with small grinder.

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Old 12-16-2011, 10:49 PM   #997
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Originally Posted by GlennR View Post
EnduroRdr,

Very impressive bending & welding.


I only have a Lincoln AC/DC hotbox stick welder. I've thought about trying the Harbor Frt Tig adaptor for more dilicate work than is practical with a stick. I know it probably wouldn't do well for aluminum, since it's not an inverter welder, but maybe it would work okay for steel and maybe stainless. I don't know, but it allows you to use shielding gas & the tungsten electrode. Might work...
That is the same Lincoln I have (that is what I used for the tubing welding). The ac/dc tombstone one, had it for about 30 years. You don't need to buy the Harbor Frt model. I use my Lincoln to TIG. All you need is the TIG hose with torch, a bottle of Argon and a combo regulator/flow meter to control the gas and you can do stainless and regular carbon steel with no slag (pretty welds). Just clamp the leads to the TIG whip connections, use dc for stainless (about 30-40 amps for the thin tubing). You have to "Scratch Start" your arc since you don't have a peddle but with a little practice you're in business. TIG welding is a lot like gas welding using oxy/acyt rig, if you can do that then you're already there. You can get a good quality TIG torch and hose for under a hundred bucks to add to your existing stick weld rig, the Harbor rig is kinda cheesy and will set you back about 200 last time I looked at one. Kind of a waste unless you just want a second more portable rig.

I tried an inverter box hooked to my tombstone to do aluminum but it was pretty crappy results, (I get better results on aluminum using my small MIG with aluminum wire and argon, you just have to remember to keep the whip straight "minimum bends" so the aluminum wire doesn't kink in the tube) or get a spool gun. If you're doing a lot of aluminum you're better off saving up to get one of the new style square wave TIG rigs, really makes pretty aluminum welds - Miller or Lincoln both carry good models for around $1500 that include whip, peddle, every thing you need to get started except the argon bottle.
I know that sounds like a lot of investment but you can sell off your older stick rig and if you do enough welding you need the better rigs. Besides a few aluminum welds jobs for others and you could make some money to off set the cost.
At least that's my plan, next big shop purchase will be replace the old stick welder with a new square wave so I can do aluminum the right way. For now I just do most of my stuff in carbon and stainless steel - I get a friend to do aluminum welding and trade off machine work to him.

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Old 12-17-2011, 03:39 AM   #998
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Practice makes not so crap.


I'm going to do plenty more practice welds to refine my skill before angle grinder meets sidestand, but I'm confident everything is heading in the right direction.
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Old 12-17-2011, 09:24 AM   #999
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I didn't realize you could get a Lincoln Tig kit for the tombstone AC/DC welder for $100. That's sounds good. The HF one I've seen is about $30 or $40, but I'd rather go with the Lincoln since it doesn't cost much more.
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Old 12-17-2011, 09:29 AM   #1000
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I didn't realize you could get a Lincoln Tig kit for the tombstone AC/DC welder for $100. That's sounds good. The HF one I've seen is about $30 or $40, but I'd rather go with the Lincoln since it doesn't cost much more.
Yeah, in retrospect I see I didn't know enough, either... I may have bought a used tombstone, locally, and a tig kit to get the welds I want on thin metal. I just bought thinner flux-core wire for my Lincoln Handy-Mig, I'll be trying that later this week. The Handy-Mig was about $275 at Sears' site, though, so it is still an OK deal considering it is a kit with a regulator and such.
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Old 12-21-2011, 04:36 AM   #1001
mike-s
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Side stand almost done, just needs some prettying up, nowhere near as nice as Mambo Dave's efforts though. Next on the operating table, the centre stand.
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Old 12-21-2011, 06:56 AM   #1002
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Kill it by fire!!!!!!!

Quote:
Originally Posted by mike-s View Post

side stand almost done, just needs some prettying up, nowhere near as nice as mambo dave's efforts though. Next on the operating table, the centre stand.




I wish my bike's kick-stand was like that... instead, its got some god-forsaken, twisty, solid, squared, tapering wrought-iron-looking serpent that is going to be a little more difficult to mod.

Rustoleum Gloss Black will do wonders for your kickstand after even only a mild sanding. You may not have to grind the welds.
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Old 12-21-2011, 03:44 PM   #1003
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I wish my bike's kick-stand was like that... instead, its got some god-forsaken, twisty, solid, squared, tapering wrought-iron-looking serpent that is going to be a little more difficult to mod.

.
I got lucky and found a donor stand that was easy to mod.

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Old 12-21-2011, 03:52 PM   #1004
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Longer cables?

Who has had to replace throttle and clutch cables with longer ones and where did you find them? After adding the trail bike bars my stock cables are stretched to the limit and I still want a bit more height.
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Old 12-21-2011, 05:37 PM   #1005
Mambo Dave
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Who has had to replace throttle and clutch cables with longer ones and where did you find them? After adding the trail bike bars my stock cables are stretched to the limit and I still want a bit more height.
Motion Pro sold me a longer clutch cable, and from what I can tell they will make most bikes' cables longer.

Problem being is that once you break a longer cable... you're outta luck until the next order can come in. ... unless you get into either making your own cables or repairing the longer one you have. From what I understand it just takes the cable, the ends, and soldering? For a "new" cable the inner-liner and outer-housing would be needed, too.

For my VN800A I still have the old extended-cable housing - which is still moderately OK - so to make a spare from it, instead of paying $45 plus shipping for another to have as a spare, I may order the cable and ends I need and just skip the inner-liner (instead re-using the old one) as it will be only a spare.

I looked this up when my extended clutch cable broke... if I alter the EX500 by putting handle-bars on it, I may go this DIY route.

Cable parts: http://www.flandershandlebars.com/FlanCableSearch.html





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that more people cruise the internet looking for reasons why
X bike won't work in Y scenario rather than actually riding
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." --
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