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Old 04-13-2008, 10:25 AM   #1
klm4755 OP
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KLR650 DID "X-ring" chain (riveted master link) install step-by-step walk thru

Enclosed is a walk thru install of the DID 520VM rivet style chain on the KLR650. The DID 520VM is the top of the line chain and is rated at 8,120 lbs tensile strength, where as the stock chain is rated at 6,200 lbs. The stock KLR650 uses 106 links. The chain is also an “X” ring style where as the stock is an “O” ring style. It is recommended that any replacement chain master link not be the “C” clip style.
This master link is the rivet style. A rivet style master link is abit more difficult to install. However the likelihood of unintentional disconnect is highly remote if the master clip is installed correctly. The chain and extra masterlinks can be seen here:
http://www.tpimotorcycleparts.com/ for $112.50. Extra “X” ring master links sell for $7.95
Kawasaki recommends the chain be inspected and replaced at an interval of 7,500 to 20,000 miles. This walk thru will consists of 3x
parts:
1. Review of tools needed
2. Removal of the OEM chain.
3. Master link plate and rivet install
Start of part 1...tools needed

packaging of the chain to install

master link included

chain pin press and master link plate press

chain puller, if needed, this tool helps pull the links together to get the master link installed

master link rivet upset squeezer

tool out of kit

new chain weight ~3lbs 10.5 oz

master link pin to squeeze upset on installation, closeup

X ring close-up

X ring side view

need 4x for master link install

grease for master link install...Don’t eat this!

pin removal tool diameter = .177 inches, This part gets installed on the master link install tool to either drive the master link pin out, or the thick end is used to upset the master link rivet on install.

master link pin diameter = .205 inch

with X ring installed

closeup of link

work area, bike on center stand, pannier off for access
Part 2 Remove OEM endless chain

Since the OEM chain has no master link...endless style...a pin head needs to be removed and a pin pushed out...get out the Dremal kit

metal cutting wheel

get out Dremal rotary tool

get proper collet

attach cutter

any link will do....keep on rear sprocket to help stabilize the link pin head

and cut from the side...fast dremal speed....no issues...cuts thru in 20 seconds

like so

use this pin removal tool to push the pin thru the link

now the chain can be removed

old and new side by side

small overall stretch after 7,500 miles

OEM dirty Chain weight 3 lbs 10.5 oz

closeup view of O ring and X ring

another view
Now for part 3 rivet master link install

Configure the rivet tool master link bucker to this configuration

add 2x X rings and lube pins with the grease

re-thread chain on drive sprocket and place ends on rear sprocket, install master link pins thru chain link

add more grease, remaining master link X rings, and add outer plate

rotate assy till master link is between sprockets

use this tool to press fit the link cover on the pins

Measure distance between non master link plates = .678 inches

Master link press fit distance = .675 inches

need to buck, by squeezing, the pin ends as shown here in un squeezed state

will use this upset mandrel tool to form the driven head

backing plate, kinda like a bucking bar

engage tool

apply co-linear forces with crescent and socket wrench to squeeze the master rivet pin head

keep going till totally squished down like in this view-

measure non-master link rivet distance =.791 inches

measure master link rivet 1 distance =.781 inches

measure master link rivet 2 distance =.782 inches

master link pin bucked head should look like this!

off set view of properly installed master link pin bucked head

chain view

as installed on bike

ready to ride!
Keithm
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Old 04-13-2008, 10:52 AM   #2
waltermitty
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That's the cleanest KLR I ever seen. You a protologist?
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Old 04-13-2008, 12:26 PM   #3
klm4755 OP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by waltermitty
That's the cleanest KLR I ever seen. You a protologist?
Is this the view of the bike you speak of??

left side view?

or right side view?

or front view
hehehehe
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Old 04-13-2008, 03:45 PM   #4
johnjen
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This belongs in thumpers

JJ
and when it's sufficiently played out, if you want, I can add it to the HoW
Let me know…
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Old 04-13-2008, 04:49 PM   #5
Oly
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so why did you replace the OEM chain after only 7500 miles?

and why not at least replace the front sprocket at the same time?

A well maintained OEM chain should go at least twice that mileage and if you are running the same front sprocket then you will shorten the life of your new DID.

nice write up and great pics by the way.
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Old 04-13-2008, 05:00 PM   #6
El Guero
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Oly
so why did you replace the OEM chain after only 7500 miles?

and why not at least replace the front sprocket at the same time?

A well maintained OEM chain should go at least twice that mileage and if you are running the same front sprocket then you will shorten the life of your new DID.

nice write up and great pics by the way.
+1 on replacing the chain early. I can understand your excitement about your new chain, but what kind of KLR owner are you? I got 15000 miles out of the stock chain and sprockets, and that was even after 2000-odd miles of riding it completely taut after me and GSbiker tightened the shit out of it

Very good write-up though. Was the Dremel tool removal of the old chain so you could save it for later? I might have missed that.
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Old 04-13-2008, 05:11 PM   #7
a1fa
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damn dude. you made rocket science out of cave man job! thanks :)
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Old 04-13-2008, 05:41 PM   #8
Mercury264
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Great write-up

Instead of removing the pin in the old chain I have heard of people just cutting it off since it's toast anyway.

Ironically I replaced the chain on the XR today for the first time - same chain actually.

I have a Q for you - I didn't use the link that came with the chain (i.e. the same one you installed) but instead used a clip type master link since that what was on the chain I replaced. Curious as to why you recommend the link you used over a clip type ?
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Old 04-13-2008, 08:12 PM   #9
Bad Company
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Great writeup!!
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Old 04-14-2008, 08:31 AM   #10
klm4755 OP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mercury264
Great write-up

Instead of removing the pin in the old chain I have heard of people just cutting it off since it's toast anyway.

Ironically I replaced the chain on the XR today for the first time - same chain actually.

I have a Q for you - I didn't use the link that came with the chain (i.e. the same one you installed) but instead used a clip type master link since that what was on the chain I replaced. Curious as to why you recommend the link you used over a clip type ?
The chain was delivered with a rivet style X ring master link. I don't believe you can get an X style 520 style C-clip master link. I installed the master link that came with the chain.
Keithm
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Old 04-14-2008, 08:46 AM   #11
Mercury264
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Quote:
Originally Posted by klm4755
The chain was delivered with a rivet style X ring master link. I don't believe you can get an X style 520 style C-clip master link. I installed the master link that came with the chain.
Keithm
I originally ordered this for my XR:

http://www.sprocketcenter.com/p/4786...50l-93-06.html

and it would appear you can get a clip master link with an X ring chain.

Unfortunately (or fortunately) they sent me this:

http://www.sprocketcenter.com/p/3105...50l-93-06.html

so like you I got the rivet style link.

I am going to remove the clip link and install the rivet link.

Again, great write-up.
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Old 04-15-2008, 05:31 AM   #12
svwayne
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Quote:
Originally Posted by klm4755

Measure distance between non master link plates = .678 inches
Great write-up. Thanks for taking the time.

I usually measure the distance between the insides of the plates since some master links have a different side plate thickness than the rest of the chain. I also repeat this measurement after riveting the link pins. Too much compression on that X ring will contribute to early failure of the master link.
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Old 04-18-2008, 11:05 PM   #13
klm4755 OP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by svwayne
Great write-up. Thanks for taking the time.

I usually measure the distance between the insides of the plates since some master links have a different side plate thickness than the rest of the chain. I also repeat this measurement after riveting the link pins. Too much compression on that X ring will contribute to early failure of the master link.

this master link plate = .080 inch

real chain plate gage = .080
They seem to be of the same thickness.
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Old 04-19-2008, 01:41 AM   #14
Doghouse_Riley
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Am I the only one that doesn't do all the measuring done here?
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Old 04-19-2008, 07:26 AM   #15
dancolin
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Doghouse_Riley
Am I the only one that doesn't do all the measuring done here?
I never even seen half of those tools..I think the cost of those tools alone is worth more than my KLR..but great right up!
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