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Old 04-19-2008, 06:01 PM   #16
ChuckUFarley
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Question Seat?

Is that a Corbin dual platform seat I see? Can you give your opinions? I've been looking at one and am having trouble deciding between that, the dished, or just taking an electric knife to the foam on the stocker.

Great write-up on the chain replacement.
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Old 04-19-2008, 08:58 PM   #17
klm4755 OP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ChuckUFarley
Is that a Corbin dual platform seat I see? Can you give your opinions? I've been looking at one and am having trouble deciding between that, the dished, or just taking an electric knife to the foam on the stocker.

Great write-up on the chain replacement.
The seat was custom made by Rich's motorcycle seat shop in Seattle.
Keithm
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Old 04-20-2008, 07:00 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Red J
Typically the measuring I see done with the rivet type masterlinks is the diameter of the pin after peening.

In fact, the Honda manuals call out a specified diameter range, plus a visual inspection of the pin to check for cracks and concentric peening.
here is the upset diameter measured= .229 inches.

I have nothing to reference the value to.
Keithm
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Old 04-21-2008, 06:21 PM   #19
thecanoeguy
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great write up

go and wear your bike out first(or at lest get it dirty) your old chain should not be the same length as your new one ,this is when the cheap aussie changes his sprockets
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GB screwed with this post 04-22-2008 at 08:19 AM Reason: Profanity removed.
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Old 04-21-2008, 09:18 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Red J
Honda's shop manual for the CBR1100XX Blackbird, for a DID 50ZVS (I used a 530ZVM) is:

5.50 - 5.80mm
0.217 - 0.228 in.

I'd say you're okay.

J.
Thanks! The pin head seems a tad overdriven, but a visual inspection indicated no cracking, so should be good to go!
Keithm
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Old 04-21-2008, 10:55 PM   #21
John2453
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If you don't have a Dremel or a grinder, you can use bolt cutters to break your chain. That's what I used on my old DID 520V and it was very fast. No other tool is required.
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Old 04-22-2008, 05:42 AM   #22
SnowAviation
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Doghouse_Riley
Am I the only one that doesn't do all the measuring done here?
No, and most of us don't "apply co-linear forces with crescent and socket wrench" either.


Co-linear - Heh.


Ribbing aside, nice right-up Keithm.
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Old 04-22-2008, 07:12 AM   #23
klm4755 OP
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Originally Posted by SnowAviation
No, and most of us don't "apply co-linear forces with crescent and socket wrench" either.


Co-linear - Heh.


Ribbing aside, nice right-up Keithm.
Two co-linear offset forces is a "couple". A couple induces a pure moment without shear loads. Every couple has a moment! hehehe
Keithm
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Old 06-29-2009, 02:19 AM   #24
DCL
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I know this is an old thread...but wanted to thank you for the step by step pics as they helped during a chain install this weekend.

DCL

Quote:
Originally Posted by klm4755
Enclosed is a walk thru install of the DID 520VM rivet style chain on the KLR650.
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Old 07-18-2010, 08:04 AM   #25
Muckpee
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Great how to, I will be using it in the future! The BMW techs at my dealer should read this.. they installed my chain but didn't think using the last two xrings were a big deal..
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Old 07-18-2010, 11:17 AM   #26
eakins
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great right up!
that would apply to any bike w/ a chain.
should be stickied somewhere for maintainance.
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Old 07-20-2010, 10:59 PM   #27
Milckrate
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Fabulous write up. Thank you!
Discovered it googling for the KLR's link count as I'm in the middle of my first replacement and got an online course for free!
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Old 07-21-2010, 07:26 AM   #28
TNC
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Yeah, this is an excellent write-up for sure. Even if you don't go to the extremes pointed out here, it allows one to see all the elements involved and their importance when installing a chain and this kind of master link.

I use this same chain, but I use the also available "C" style master link. It's on a KLX250 turned 300cc, and I feel that with proper installation and maintenance, an old style master link will be quite reliable. That said, I'm sure most of us have experienced the very difficult task of compressing the side plate on any good o-ring chain to get the clip on. Rather than using or carrying a heavier or more expensive chain tool, I just use a small Harbor Freight C-clamp with the tip of the adjustable jaw ground down to a point to compress the plate and o-rings just enough to get the C-clip installed. This C-clamp is the smallest they make and takes up no space and costs almost nothing. Just an alternate idea on simple and cheap.
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Old 07-23-2010, 04:49 AM   #29
Hipster
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Great write up. I just ordered a DID 520 x-ring chain but, mine came with a master link.
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Old 11-30-2010, 09:06 AM   #30
klm4755 OP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thecanoeguy
this is when the cheap aussie changes his sprockets
Now that's one worn sprocket
Keithm
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