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Old 11-05-2010, 12:12 PM   #1771
mxchamp
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Location: The corn state,11 curves in 318 miles (Iafalls IA)
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Talking

Quote:
Originally Posted by Ogre_fl
Update. Fixed ???

Last Saturday I removed the idle actuator and cleaned it and its port in the throttle body.

Upon first start up it stalled and idled funky so I figured it did not work.
After that, it started and did not stall, but still had a pretty lumpy idle.
I rode it every day since, cold starting the bike at least 3 times a day and it has not stalled, including today with temps in the 40's.
The idle seems to be smoother and more consistent now as well.

FWIW I did this with only removing the side panel and disconnecting the battery.
I did not remove the airbox nor the throttle body.
It was very easy to do, but care should be taken to clean all around the actuator before removing it.
It was filthy and crap could have got into places you wouldn't want it.

Now I will say that I "think" the cleaning did the trick, but it might have also simply been that I disconnected the battery for 15 mins while I did the cleaning and that supposedly re-sets the ECU.
I would like someone with the stalling problem to try simply disconnecting the battery for 15 mins and see if over the next few days if it fixes the problem.
If not, simply cleaning the actuator on the bike is really easy and seemed to fix it for me.

When it comes time to check the valves and the airbox has to come off I plan to look at the throttle body itself and clean it and the actuator again, but hopefully this quickie actuator only cleaning will last for the next 4000 miles.
Please post pictures of the actual job that you did.

If it doesn't work for me, a boosterplug is in my next farkle addition.

Thanks
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Old 11-05-2010, 12:38 PM   #1772
Ogre_fl
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mxchamp
Please post pictures of the actual job that you did.

If it doesn't work for me, a boosterplug is in my next farkle addition.

Thanks
Sorry, I didn't take pictures as I did it.
Remove the right side "tank" cover and the idle actuator is on the right side of the throttle body.
Its a little tight but you can get to it and remove it.

I used the BMW REPROM as a reference, maybe this will help, bear in mind the airbox is still on.





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Old 11-05-2010, 03:58 PM   #1773
The Jester
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ogre_fl
Sorry, I didn't take pictures as I did it.
Remove the right side "tank" cover and the idle actuator is on the right side of the throttle body.
Its a little tight but you can get to it and remove it.
I did this at the weekend as well, except I did it as part of a service where I was also checking the valve clearances, so had the airbox off. I lifted off the throttle body while I was in there and was able to flush the whole thing out with carb cleaner. There was a lot of muck on mine, built up in the idle circuit.

The throttle butterfly effectively closes off the whole of the main airflow path. The idle circuit is a small passageway which bypasses the butterfly. The idle actuator is a small electro magnet which moves a plunger back and forth to open and close the passageway. Undo 2 screws on the side of the throttle body and there it is. Definitely not rocket science.

I wouldn't say I had a major stalling problem but it would cut out from a cold start. After reassembly the bike started first touch of the button, more easily than normal, and settled down to a really smooth idle, much smoother than before. I also replaced the plugs with platinum ones so this may have helped but the amount of muck in the idle circuit would not have helped the situation.

Yet to get out and ride it though as I have been walking around like c3po all week with a bad neck.
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Old 11-05-2010, 04:36 PM   #1774
MrMike
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What I did

OK so I've been trying to get my stall problem fixed too for the 7 months I've owned it. Mine used to do this: I would start it cold, or having let it sit for 1 1/2 hours so pretty cold, I don't touch the throttle when starting, after about 1 minuet it would stall. I could put a clock on it as it was that consistent. Sometimes just a stall and sometimes with a screeching sound. After reading all the threads about how to start it nothing worked. So I bought the higher volume injector that is talked about in the how to richen you Challange thread and installed it along with cleaning the idle actuator. It's been 3 months now. It does not stall during the idle period any longer, but if I try to ride the bike before about 4 minuets of a cold/semi cold start it will die as soon as I crack the throttle. But if I wait the 4 minuets it will burble a little but not stall, then when fully warm no problems in the way it runs. Also I find that if I do the turn the key on, turn the throttle full twice, and turn the key off every few days it seems to help with the off Idle coldish burble slightly. This still tends to piss me off if I'm in a hurry as I have to just sit there waiting for it to come alive so I can ride off. So I've just ordered the booster plug to see if it will allow me to do what every other fuel injected bike and car I've owned did and that was to start it dead cold and ride/drive right off. I don't do that but it should. So we'll see if the booster plug helps my cold start problems.
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Old 11-05-2010, 10:17 PM   #1775
DRONE
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mxchamp
Please post pictures of the actual job that you did.

If it doesn't work for me, a boosterplug is in my next farkle addition.

Thanks
MXChamp--every time I see a post from you I'm reminded of how much I miss your old avatar. Could you put it into the body of a post somehow for all to be mesmerized?
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Old 11-06-2010, 03:44 AM   #1776
Colebatch
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Stolen XC

My heavily customied XC was stolen overnight in Holland. Anyone in Europe seeing unusual XC bits, or bits they recognise from my bike on places like ebay and the dutch equivalent maarkplaats, please let me know
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Old 11-06-2010, 04:10 AM   #1777
MizzouRider
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Colebatch
My heavily customied XC was stolen overnight in Holland. Anyone in Europe seeing unusual XC bits, or bits they recognise from my bike on places like ebay and the dutch equivalent maarkplaats, please let me know
I'm sure sorry to hear this.. Colebatch, I hope you get it back soon, and in one piece..
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Old 11-06-2010, 05:31 AM   #1778
Alcanara
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Location: Harrogate (UK) and Murcia (Spain) Trail Heaven
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Colebatch
My heavily customied XC was stolen overnight in Holland. Anyone in Europe seeing unusual XC bits, or bits they recognise from my bike on places like ebay and the dutch equivalent maarkplaats, please let me know
Amazing isn't it... you go all over Eastern Europe with it and it is fine.... get back home and some scroats swipe it. Makes your blood boil.

I hope you get it back soon.... It has so many non std bits on it...It has to be recognisable

Good Luck Colebatch
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Old 11-06-2010, 06:15 AM   #1779
MTBiker78
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Colebatch
My heavily customied XC was stolen overnight in Holland. Anyone in Europe seeing unusual XC bits, or bits they recognise from my bike on places like ebay and the dutch equivalent maarkplaats, please let me know

Its a lot of quite unique piecies in your machine Walter - will keep an eyes on ebays and local market...
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Old 11-06-2010, 06:23 AM   #1780
DrWatson
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Just put the TT tank on, however without connecting fuel lines as yet.

Am thinking of connecting via a T piece to the main tank air breather rather than drilling holes in main tank.
Those that have done this method, could you please advise if you had any issues with air leaks, fuel leaks etc?
Did you use the breather hose supplied for the connection to the T piece?
When filling up, do you fill the main tank 1st, then the TT tank? Any filling or draining issues?
Thanks (btw I have read all the threads, however just want up to date info from those who have personally done this method)
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Old 11-06-2010, 07:37 PM   #1781
kpie
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Question on Seat

Hello all .... Is the seat supposed to fit (black indentations on seat pan) down under the aluminum clips welded on the subframe, or are they to sit on top of the clips? Cannot get them down under the clips so I don't know if the damn thing is really on correctly or not! Help!
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Old 11-06-2010, 08:18 PM   #1782
DiscoDino
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kpie
Hello all .... Is the seat supposed to fit (black indentations on seat pan) down under the aluminum clips welded on the subframe, or are they to sit on top of the clips? Cannot get them down under the clips so I don't know if the damn thing is really on correctly or not! Help!
As far as I know & manage to do so, under
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Old 11-06-2010, 08:19 PM   #1783
mxchamp
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Location: The corn state,11 curves in 318 miles (Iafalls IA)
Oddometer: 1,405
Talking

Quote:
Originally Posted by Ogre_fl
Sorry, I didn't take pictures as I did it.
Remove the right side "tank" cover and the idle actuator is on the right side of the throttle body.
Its a little tight but you can get to it and remove it.

I used the BMW REPROM as a reference, maybe this will help, bear in mind the airbox is still on.





Thanks for the helpful info.

And a nice little gift for Mr. Drone!
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mxchamp screwed with this post 11-07-2010 at 10:34 AM
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Old 11-06-2010, 08:28 PM   #1784
kpie
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Yes, thanks. I must be getting old. tabs were pushed down from sitting on top. pulled them back into position and the seat is now on correctly. Thanks.

Quote:
Originally Posted by kpie
Hello all .... Is the seat supposed to fit (black indentations on seat pan) down under the aluminum clips welded on the subframe, or are they to sit on top of the clips? Cannot get them down under the clips so I don't know if the damn thing is really on correctly or not! Help!
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Old 11-06-2010, 08:33 PM   #1785
kpie
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Ran it through the breather vent. No problems. Tried the Touratech way and had leaking from the stock tank (drilled holes). Got a replacement stock tank and routed through the breather vent. I would recommend this is the best way to run it. Use Motion Pro Tyvek fuel line as the Touratech supplied line is junk.

Quote:
Originally Posted by nicolaswatson
Just put the TT tank on, however without connecting fuel lines as yet.

Am thinking of connecting via a T piece to the main tank air breather rather than drilling holes in main tank.
Those that have done this method, could you please advise if you had any issues with air leaks, fuel leaks etc?
Did you use the breather hose supplied for the connection to the T piece?
When filling up, do you fill the main tank 1st, then the TT tank? Any filling or draining issues?
Thanks (btw I have read all the threads, however just want up to date info from those who have personally done this method)
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