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Old 03-16-2009, 08:04 PM   #361
DoucheBag
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Wirring diagram/R&G Tail Tiddy

anyone have a wiring diagram for the rear indicator/plate light plug? just need the color codes so I know what I'm hooking into... also is there a need for the R&G supplied resistors? the new signals are LED, but the front arn't so theres no need, right? I'm an when it comes to electrical, so any help mucho appreciated.

I really just need to know the color codes for the rear harness below, #2, any one already done the mod?

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DoucheBag screwed with this post 03-17-2009 at 08:21 AM
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Old 03-17-2009, 08:34 AM   #362
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DoucheBag
anyone have a wiring diagram for the rear indicator/plate light plug? just need the color codes so I know what I'm hooking into... also is there a need for the R&G supplied resistors? the new signals are LED, but the front arn't so theres no need, right? I'm an when it comes to electrical, so any help mucho appreciated.

I really just need to know the color codes for the rear harness below, #2, any one already done the mod?
Yes, I do believe you need the resistors for the LED flashers. LED lights pull less juice (that's a electronics technical term ) than conventional bulbs. The load between the rear signal light and the front needs to be balanced for the flashy to worky (and not flash too fast). I don't remember the wire colors ... but you've got a common ground going to each of the turn signals and the license plate light; then a power lead to each 3 also. The diagram of how to wire up the load-balancing resistors comes with the R&G. You can always just twist/connect power wires together (load to source) and switch a turn signal on to see what lights up ...
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Old 03-17-2009, 08:42 AM   #363
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Correct color codes?

Does this sound about right?

Brown (thick-ish) - Ground
Blue/Red - Left indicator
Blue/Black - Right indicator

someone please correct me if this sounds wrong...

1) conect ressistors to signals
2) run from negative resistor wires to ground
3) run from positive resistor wires to corect side signal
4) conect remaining wire to positive plate light
5) tie negative plate light to ground
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DoucheBag screwed with this post 03-17-2009 at 09:04 AM
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Old 03-17-2009, 08:50 AM   #364
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DoucheBag
Does this sound about right?

Brown (thick-ish) - Ground
Grey/Black - Tail/back (red) light
Grey/Yellow - Brake light
Blue/Red - Left indicator/trafficator
Blue/Black - Right indicator/trafficator
IIRC, yes. Except you don't need to deal with the brake light wires -- just leave them be -- when hooking up the tail tidy.
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Old 03-17-2009, 09:12 AM   #365
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Battery

I bought my x as a dealer demo with 415 miles on it. the battery was dead in the showroom so they put in a new one before i loaded it in the truck. That battery has been in since june with no problems 2400 miles later, and it even sat in my barn with no charger for a few months wile i customized it and it still started right up.
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Old 03-17-2009, 09:18 AM   #366
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Originally Posted by QUIRKSM
I bought my x as a dealer demo with 415 miles on it. the battery was dead in the showroom so they put in a new one before i loaded it in the truck. That battery has been in since june with no problems 2400 miles later, and it even sat in my barn with no charger for a few months wile i customized it and it still started right up.
'fraid I must point out that you just jinxed yourself, big time. You might as well order that Odyssey right now.
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Old 03-17-2009, 11:16 AM   #367
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If you use the R&G indicators you neednīt the resistor. They are small bulbs (6w) not leds and need the resistors in bikes with original 21 w indicators (XC has 10w, so you neednīt it).
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Old 03-18-2009, 09:02 AM   #368
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Originally Posted by mxchamp
26MM
Thanks, I stopped by the dealer and they said the chain tension was in spec but its good to know next time I am at sears.

I was noticing a rattle yesterday. Seems like the header pipe heat guard bolt had worked itself out. Put a new bolt in and still a rattle... Seems like the dealer didn't loctite the handguard bar end bolts Caught that though before I lost it. I was just making fun of my brothers LC4 the other day for rattling bolts loose too.
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Old 03-18-2009, 09:03 AM   #369
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Don't worry i was knocking on wood when i typed that, hahaha. But yeah you're probably right about jinxing myself.

So last night i went for about an hour long ride (x challenge with air box mod, unifilter, remus titanium full system, and 17" sm wheels) when i got home i put the baffle back in my exhaust and went down the road and swore it ran better than without it. has anyone else experienced this?
it seemed smoother and maybe a little faster.
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Old 03-18-2009, 09:10 AM   #370
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Quote:
Originally Posted by QUIRKSM
Don't worry i was knocking on wood when i typed that, hahaha. But yeah you're probably right about jinxing myself.

So last night i went for about an hour long ride (x challenge with air box mod, unifilter, remus titanium full system, and 17" sm wheels) when i got home i put the baffle back in my exhaust and went down the road and swore it ran better than without it. has anyone else experienced this?
it seemed smoother and maybe a little faster.
Not uncommon, remember the engine is designed to run with some exhaust back pressure. Straght pipes usually do not give more HP than a well designed muffler. Unless you messure performance in Db that is.
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Old 03-18-2009, 09:28 AM   #371
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Flo-Thank you very much for the quick reply. Thats what i was thinking about the backpressure, i just wasn't sure if anyone else noticed it on theirs.

i guess i'll run it with the baffle in if its gonna run like it did yesterday, even though i love the deep throaty sound with it out.
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Old 03-18-2009, 03:40 PM   #372
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Flo_Evans
Thanks, I stopped by the dealer and they said the chain tension was in spec but its good to know next time I am at sears.
You probably wont find a 26mm in stock anywhere. I had to special order mine Sears. But i think I read in a previous post that the 27mm from certain KTM's have the same thread pattern and work on the XC. Then you can order one of those 27mm wrench/tire iron combo's.
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Old 03-18-2009, 04:27 PM   #373
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Originally Posted by Skaife
But i think I read in a previous post that the 27mm from certain KTM's have the same thread pattern and work on the XC. Then you can order one of those 27mm wrench/tire iron combo's.
That's what I did...F/R is now 27mm, and the Motion Pro lever ROCKS!
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Old 03-18-2009, 07:38 PM   #374
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Thumb 27mm Nut

https://www.ktm-parts.com/mm5/mercha...Category_Code=

Here is what you need. Sorry no photo on the website.
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Old 03-19-2009, 08:15 AM   #375
DoucheBag
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Quote:
Originally Posted by felix_gt
If you use the R&G indicators you neednīt the resistor. They are small bulbs (6w) not leds and need the resistors in bikes with original 21 w indicators (XC has 10w, so you neednīt it).
Thanks! apperently you know more than the tech staff at R&G & saved me a whole bunch of trouble , just to put this out there for anyone else attempting to do tail tiddy ... these are the corect color codes:

Brown - Ground
Blue/Red - Left indicator
Blue/Black - Right indicator

Black/White - Plate light

the directions said to cut out the female, bike side plug... I opted to cut out the male from the factory tiddy... being from Florida it's nice to work in the AC on the commfy couch...
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