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Old 08-12-2009, 11:44 PM   #676
Bike#8
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Location: Socal=Mt. Laguna & Palomar Mtn.> Now in Idaho Yea!
Oddometer: 170
Quote:
Can somebody explain to me what these are (behind the red guards) and whether or not they can be removed?
My dealer added these to my old xchallenge as part of a recall. He said they are for the BMW shop lift to hold the bike upright when they work on the bike. My xmoto has them too.
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Old 08-13-2009, 06:56 PM   #677
TymeRider
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Location: Sunnyvale, CA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MadMax
I think that is where the centerstand mounts up, if you buy one of the aftermarkets, like SW MO-tech.
As someone said previously, it's for the shop stand the dealers use while servicing the bike. The SW-Motech stand mounts between the footpeg brackets and the frame using the three large flathead bolts.
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Old 08-14-2009, 07:59 AM   #678
NuggetHead
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Joined: Sep 2006
Location: Augusta GA
Oddometer: 145
X Challenge Brake Squealing

Ok, need some ideas here. The bike has about 3800 miles on it, primarily ridden on the road. The rear brakes have started squealing pretty bad. Everything looks ok, but as a just in case I replaced the pads. Was ok for about 10 miles and started up again.

Do pads have to be broken in? I know on my Buell that certain pad types have to be broken in a certain way at the start. Anyone got any suggestions on a cure?

Kurt
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Old 08-14-2009, 04:33 PM   #679
paul_g
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Joined: Jun 2009
Oddometer: 109
2009 XCountry gas mileage report

Had the bike for almost a month now and did the entire week commuting back and forth on it (22 miles each way).

Last fuel up, I used 1.782 gallons to travel 119.6 miles for slightly over 67 miles per gallon. And that is without a fairing! I'm excited about that. I think it is safe to guess a fairing could boost the mileage toward 80mpg, which would be more than I was expecting.

Please note... I have not been riding very aggressively, having taken it typically up to 60 on the highway.

Also had my first wet road experience recently, and it did fine. No noticeable handling issues, but I did take my speed down a bit since I didn't know what to expect.

Cheers,

Paul G
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Old 08-15-2009, 09:28 AM   #680
FOXedupONE
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Joined: Dec 2007
Location: Raising the cub in the foxden, B'ville,VA.
Oddometer: 2,546
Yup these bikes get great mileage. That's why they have an acceptable range,on the east coast at least,with just a 2 gallon tank.

My TMAX 500cc twin scooter only gets 50 MPG's.

And my sportbikes are in the 40's

I don't know how they made this engine so efficient since I'm sure it's still tuned for great power. Wonder what the MPG's on a KTM 690 or other 650's like a KLR are. Do thumpers just get better MPG's because of the one cylinder?
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Old 08-15-2009, 08:37 PM   #681
bloochdog
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Joined: Jan 2006
Location: I cover the waterfront in Norfolk Virginia.
Oddometer: 5,664
Banshee and i had a great ride in Canaan Valley

We rode 400 miles and about 120 was great trails, dirt and water crossings.. Monogahila forest is a great place.






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Old 08-15-2009, 08:42 PM   #682
kpie
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Hellfire !!! What kind of snake is that? Would have sh*%# my pants!
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Old 08-15-2009, 09:00 PM   #683
bloochdog
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Location: I cover the waterfront in Norfolk Virginia.
Oddometer: 5,664
just a black snake

pretty harmless unless you are a rat.. King snake i think.. I was playing with it untill my GF got pissed and wanted to keep riding..she hates it when i mess with critters.. we stopped a horse in the road about ten min earlier it was trotting up rt 32.. in the left lane .. we grabbed it and held him till owners got there
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Old 08-16-2009, 09:24 AM   #684
MZcountryboy
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Location: Northeast Kingdom, Vermont USA (close to Canada!)
Oddometer: 5,428
Quote:
Originally Posted by NuggetHead
Ok, need some ideas here. The bike has about 3800 miles on it, primarily ridden on the road. The rear brakes have started squealing pretty bad. Everything looks ok, but as a just in case I replaced the pads. Was ok for about 10 miles and started up again.

Do pads have to be broken in? I know on my Buell that certain pad types have to be broken in a certain way at the start. Anyone got any suggestions on a cure?

Kurt
Mine did the same thing, I fixed it the same way we fix it in auto-repair land.

Take a minute amount of high temp copper based anti-sieze, and apply a THIN coating on the backer plate of the brake pads, where the piston contacts the shim on the backer plate, and where the caliper contacts the back of the other pad on the other side of the rotor.

The squeal comes from the pads vibrating against the caliper. A tiny bit of anti-sieze on those surfaces, the howl is gone. I'm on my second set of pads, they both squealed, until I put the anti-sieze on. You only need to cover where the contact point is, not the whole thing. I also put a little where the pads slide in the groove (opposite the pin) make sure you keep it away from the friction lining though.
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Old 08-16-2009, 04:19 PM   #685
NuggetHead
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Location: Augusta GA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MZcountryboy
Mine did the same thing, I fixed it the same way we fix it in auto-repair land.

Take a minute amount of high temp copper based anti-sieze, and apply a THIN coating on the backer plate of the brake pads, where the piston contacts the shim on the backer plate, and where the caliper contacts the back of the other pad on the other side of the rotor.

The squeal comes from the pads vibrating against the caliper. A tiny bit of anti-sieze on those surfaces, the howl is gone. I'm on my second set of pads, they both squealed, until I put the anti-sieze on. You only need to cover where the contact point is, not the whole thing. I also put a little where the pads slide in the groove (opposite the pin) make sure you keep it away from the friction lining though.
Thanks MZ!

Was starting to wonder if anyone else was having this issue. I will give it a try and really appreciate the help. It was sometimes a stretch never to use the rear brake so I didnt have to hear the howl!
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Old 08-17-2009, 08:37 AM   #686
muddyrabbit
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Location: Fugawee Land.
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Clutch is toast on my X-Country, any suggestions for aftermarket?
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Old 08-17-2009, 01:04 PM   #687
dakardad
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Location: Glide, Ore./Boulder, Ut.
Oddometer: 436
Quote:
Originally Posted by NuggetHead
Ok, need some ideas here. The bike has about 3800 miles on it, primarily ridden on the road. The rear brakes have started squealing pretty bad. Everything looks ok, but as a just in case I replaced the pads. Was ok for about 10 miles and started up again.

Do pads have to be broken in? I know on my Buell that certain pad types have to be broken in a certain way at the start. Anyone got any suggestions on a cure?

Kurt
I have the same problem. From my experience, I believe the rotors are at fault. My front was warped badly at 1k mi. My rear squeels like a pig. Ive tried new pads, worked for about ten miles. I will replace my rear rotor at the nest set of pads. Ive tried different compounds of pad too.
Thing is, you use the rear brake to keep the ass end down, encourages 'balanced braking'. If you find a magic bullet, let me know.
Oh, I used the anti-seize too.
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Old 08-17-2009, 01:20 PM   #688
jonb
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Joined: Nov 2004
Location: Montana backcountry
Oddometer: 284
Ohlins Rear Spring Swap-

Anyone have a 0069839 rear Ohlins spring they want to trade for a 0069844? I bought my X from someone that weights over 200lbs, about 210 to 220 and I weigh 180lbs. I need to respring the bike and get it to lighten up on me. Hopefully that will help anyway. Anyone have any ideas of where I might find one aside from Ohlins? Thanks.
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Old 08-19-2009, 09:31 AM   #689
muddyrabbit
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Location: Fugawee Land.
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O.K., I have a finished racks finally available! As I said, they are 1/8" 5052 aluminum alloy, slots for bungee hooks, and large holes in the supports that will accommodate ratchet strap hooks. After weighing the finish option between powder coated, anodized, and a simple brushed finish I am sticking with the brushed. First, it helps keep cost down, plus is gives a bit of anti slip to the cargo plate, and it looks nice. 1/8" may seem a bit thin, but once all the parts are welded together these are strong! The total weight of the rack (excluding spacers and bolts) is 1 pound 10 ounces. I'm posting a little early as I still need to get one more bill before I know the total cost, but $150 or less with mounting hardware seems to be it, plus shipping (about $11 to Cali, less the closer you are to Ohio). My goal was to provide a more functional and more cost effective alternative to the TT rack, and have it look cool on the bike. Now I just hope there is enough interest in these to get a couple out on bikes so I can get feedback for future products. Here are some pics, sorry my bike is still in the shop so no on bike pics yet.









Closeup of the ratchet strap hook anchor point:



Right now I have 6 available, and could punch out more, but I wanted to start with a small number so I don't get stuck with a bunch (after all, these are for the G-X bikes).
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Old 08-19-2009, 10:14 AM   #690
MTBiker78
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Oddometer: 184
Does anybody knows front wheel bearing and sealing size ?
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