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Old 02-17-2011, 06:00 PM   #211
Gravetter
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Location: S.Indiana
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LoCoMatt View Post
I just sold my well running, good looking '99 with 4,500 miles for $1K. I'd probably try to talk him down some more on this one.

The market for these is not that great (at least around here anyway). The discussion usually stopped right after "why yes, it is kick start only". Never bothered me, but it seems to turn off a lot of people.


Interesting.

He sent me email after I sent him a lot of questions. The only thing that caught my attention was this:

Q: Has the bike been modified in any way that you know of?
A: The piston & cylinder that is in it now is oversize but I don't know by how much


What worries me is that if I need to get a new set of rings, it could become a pain in the ass finding the proper ones. Thoughts, anyone? I tried talking him down, he just dropped the price by $100 so he set at 500.

Also, I was wrong about the miles. Only has 8k...

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Old 02-17-2011, 07:18 PM   #212
8gv
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I believe there are #'s on the top of the piston that will indicate what over size exists. If they went to maximum and the bore is worn enough, you may have to buy a new cylinder, piston etc. If you can get a bore scope in your hands you may see the top of the piston through the spark plug hole. I'm sure someone will be along soon to remind you that some of the most expensive bikes/boats/airplanes are the cheapest ones.
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Old 02-17-2011, 07:41 PM   #213
Gravetter
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Yeah, I've decided to keep my patience and continue my search. Really appreciate all the responses. Wish the used market was larger in my area (s. Indiana).
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Old 02-28-2011, 06:47 PM   #214
Brash1
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lookin for part

Where can I get a gasket/o-ring for a petcock? Mine leaks and when i took it apart it had a tear in the gasket.
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Old 03-01-2011, 08:13 AM   #215
8gv
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brash1 View Post
Where can I get a gasket/o-ring for a petcock? Mine leaks and when i took it apart it had a tear in the gasket.
I bought mine from the local Kaw dealer.
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Old 03-01-2011, 12:55 PM   #216
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Quick5pnt0 View Post
Here is my '87 KLR. I bought it around October from a guy on ebay.

Anyway here she is after all the work...

Looks good! You gave her a second chance at life!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Gvilleracer View Post
Hey everyone, I'm new to the KLR250 crowd.
Picked this up on Sunday off Craigslist. Started to regret it.... So me and a freind tore it down.
Now the re-build begins.

Its def muffed. So I ordered a new one off ebay for $4.95 that will arrive soon, I hope.

DUDE! I can't get the swing arm off my wife's '88 either?
I have beat and banged on that thing and I get it to move maybe a 1/4"!
I love your write up, it's humorous and informative, OK, more humorous!
I hav'nt finished the thread yet, but I will.
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Old 03-01-2011, 01:00 PM   #217
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Outwardbound View Post
My 250 was making nasty clacking noises from the top end.
I noticed how noisy the 250 is when I got the wife's bike home, but what was so noisy was the timing chain!
I finally got it running, but it smoked REAL bad and made noise, but then the noise stopped!
But so did the engine! Timing chain broke!
I have the details on my web site...

http://www.mcallisterdrywall.com/KLR...0progress.html

I learning the 250, more familiar with the big brother, but I'll learn!
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Old 03-01-2011, 01:23 PM   #218
K7NUT
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brash1 View Post
Where can I get a gasket/o-ring for a petcock? Mine leaks and when i took it apart it had a tear in the gasket.
I have bought alot of stuff from these guys, they've been great!

http://www.motosport.com/dirtbike/in...segment=badger

Then there's ...

http://www.babbittsonline.com/kawasaki-motorcycle-parts
Never used them though?
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Old 03-01-2011, 01:30 PM   #219
K7NUT
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Birdmove View Post
I bought a new 2001 that year and rode it for over 10,000 miles. I bought it because it had a kick start.

Jon
I know what you mean Jon, so when I installed my new clutch in my '87 650, I added a few parts!



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Old 03-29-2011, 12:32 PM   #220
bennyprofane
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Hello all,

I'm putting my carb back together after a thorough cleaning and I'm having a problem. The needle jet holder "collar" -the silver bit that protrudes into the carb body- did not come out easily when I was dissembling, and now will not go back in without what feels like excessive force. Here are my questions:

-How far should the collar protrude in to the carb body?

-Should the brass "holder" - the perforated brass bit that the main jet screws into- screw all the way into its hole, or are there threads visible it is fully installed?

-What effect will leaving some of the threads exposed on the overall performance?

I ask because the holder is pressing up snug against the collar, leaving maybe 1.5-2 turns worth of threads exposed. The holder seems to be constructed of soft brass, so I don't want to force it and damage the part try to push the collar into place.

I'm fairly new to motorcycle wrenching (and riding) so any advice, no matter how seemingly simple, is greatly appreciated.

Cheers!
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Old 03-29-2011, 05:04 PM   #221
tomasinator
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oldstyle View Post
The only trouble I had was the other morning when it was 30 degrees out. She refused. After an hour of trying I just accepted the fact that with her, no means no. I live in an apartment so it will be stored outside under a cover. Luckily 30 is probably about as cold as it will get down here.
My '99 KLR250 came with a broken choke lever. Mine is impossible to start when it's cold, too. The way I solved it and is 100% reliable for me (and has worked for years), was to drill a small hole in the side of the airbox (the carb side of the air filter). The hole is just small enough for the tube from a can of starting fluid. I keep a piece of electric tape over the hole. When I want to start the bike when it's cold, I peel back the tape, insert the tube, and squirt some starting fluid in there. The bike will start right up. Without the starting fluid, kicking the bike over does nothing. BTW, I've adjusted the valves. They weren't that far off, and it made no difference. When the bike is warm, it starts right up.
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Old 03-29-2011, 07:08 PM   #222
8gv
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bennyprofane View Post
Hello all,

I'm putting my carb back together after a thorough cleaning and I'm having a problem. The needle jet holder "collar" -the silver bit that protrudes into the carb body- did not come out easily when I was dissembling, and now will not go back in without what feels like excessive force. Here are my questions:

-How far should the collar protrude in to the carb body?

-Should the brass "holder" - the perforated brass bit that the main jet screws into- screw all the way into its hole, or are there threads visible it is fully installed?

-What effect will leaving some of the threads exposed on the overall performance?

I ask because the holder is pressing up snug against the collar, leaving maybe 1.5-2 turns worth of threads exposed. The holder seems to be constructed of soft brass, so I don't want to force it and damage the part try to push the collar into place.

I'm fairly new to motorcycle wrenching (and riding) so any advice, no matter how seemingly simple, is greatly appreciated.

Cheers!
I have taken apart my carb and don't quite get what you mean. Any pics?
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Old 03-29-2011, 08:37 PM   #223
bennyprofane
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 8gv View Post
I have taken apart my carb and don't quite get what you mean. Any pics?
Tried to take a couple of pictures, but close-ups don't seem to be my camera's specialty. The parts I'm talking about are (in order from bottom to top): the main jet (part# 92063) which is screwed into the long, perforated brass holder (part# 13091) which butts up against the steel collar (part # 16017).

Cheers!

-Nuked the picture; it was way bigger than I meant for it to be.

bennyprofane screwed with this post 03-31-2011 at 11:22 AM
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Old 03-30-2011, 07:10 AM   #224
henrymartin
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The perforated brass does not screw all the way in. It will stop and leave some threads exposed. Don't force it any deeper. The main jet screws into that, and screws in flush with the brass.

The idle jet goes in deep, so make sure you have a good screwdriver so you don't strip pieces of brass that will clog things later. Needle should just drop in by gravity alone, no forcing should be there. After all, the needle needs to move as the vacuum overcomes the soft spring under the diaphram.

Why did you take the steel collar out to begin with? There is no need to take it out for cleaning, it only acts as a guide for the needle.

Did you install it backwards? I never took mine out, so I don't know if it is tapered.

Take the diaphram out and try to drop the needle in by itself. It should go down all the way. If not, look whether it is bent or the steel sleeve binding somewhere.

If not sure, a little black marker on the needle, then drop it in. When you take it out again, you''ll see where it rubs as the marker comes off at those spots.
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Old 03-31-2011, 11:49 AM   #225
bennyprofane
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Quote:
Originally Posted by henrymartin View Post
The perforated brass does not screw all the way in. It will stop and leave some threads exposed. Don't force it any deeper. The main jet screws into that, and screws in flush with the brass.

The idle jet goes in deep, so make sure you have a good screwdriver so you don't strip pieces of brass that will clog things later. Needle should just drop in by gravity alone, no forcing should be there. After all, the needle needs to move as the vacuum overcomes the soft spring under the diaphram.

Why did you take the steel collar out to begin with? There is no need to take it out for cleaning, it only acts as a guide for the needle.

Did you install it backwards? I never took mine out, so I don't know if it is tapered.

Take the diaphram out and try to drop the needle in by itself. It should go down all the way. If not, look whether it is bent or the steel sleeve binding somewhere.

If not sure, a little black marker on the needle, then drop it in. When you take it out again, you''ll see where it rubs as the marker comes off at those spots.
I took the collar out because it didn't drop out as described in on a couple of sites, and I interpreted "stuck" as "needs cleaning". In hindsight, a little squirt of carb cleaner would have cleaned up the exposed surface, no extraction necessary. Live and learn.

As for the re-installation, the collar is not symmetrical with a "sharp" edge that protrudes and a "blunt" edge that butts against the brass tube. What had confused me was the fact the the brass tube does not screw all the way in- something I failed to notice before dissembling. Again, live and learn.

I followed your advice with the needle and it drops both clean and deep, so all that remains to do is re-assemble everything and see what happens when I kick it over. Thanks for the advice!

Cheers!
Ben
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