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Old 05-16-2011, 07:53 AM   #241
Half-a-Jeep
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If anyone is looking to upgrade their skidplate, the KLR650 plate from Happy Trails can be made to fit the 250 with some minor modification. It protects as well as the expensive one from Turbo City, but costs 1/3 the price ($240 vs $75 on sale, normally $108). And it has a flat wide front unlike Utah Sports Cycle, so you can mount a tool tube like the big boys.

All you need is a drill for new mounting holes and maybe a saw to clear the shifter. The bolts it comes with are English and Torx, but can all be replaced with some 8mm bolts (25-35mm long) if you don't want to carry specialized tools for just one thing. If you want the oil drain plug to line up, you'll need a 1" spacer to move the plate forward (or you can just cut a new hole, it's only aluminum).
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Old 05-16-2011, 11:30 AM   #242
XDragRacer
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Half-a-Jeep View Post
If anyone is looking to upgrade their skidplate, the KLR650 plate from Happy Trails can be made to fit the 250 with some minor modification. It protects as well as the expensive one from Turbo City, but costs 1/3 the price ($240 vs $75 on sale, normally $108). And it has a flat wide front unlike Utah Sports Cycle, so you can mount a tool tube like the big boys.

All you need is a drill for new mounting holes and maybe a saw to clear the shifter. The bolts it comes with are English and Torx, but can all be replaced with some 8mm bolts (25-35mm long) if you don't want to carry specialized tools for just one thing. If you want the oil drain plug to line up, you'll need a 1" spacer to move the plate forward (or you can just cut a new hole, it's only aluminum).
You're right, the Utah Sport Cycle KLR250-specific bash plate doesn't encourage a tool tube, but it's priced similarly to the Happy Trails KLR650 version; truth be told, I think Utah Sport Cycle actually manufactures both products . . .




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Old 05-16-2011, 09:55 PM   #243
Gallowbraid
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Working on a DIY mount for my GPS/MP3 player/"Am I late for work" clock. VERY rough first draft out of acrylic tonight. Going to rattle can it flat black and play with it for a bit, see how well it works (size, angle, etc...) and then take another stab at it to see if I can improve the looks / function.

Thoughts? Suggestions? Anyone wanna wash my bike?

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Old 05-17-2011, 07:08 AM   #244
8gv
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I have the same bike and gps. I bought a bicycle handlebar mount for the gps from megagps.com. It has no issues and is easy to install with the rubber pads and extra strong zip ties provided. I tell you this because it looks like the mount you have made will vibrate. The gps is rather heavy relative to the distance from the bars. That potentially sets up an oscillation making the screen unreadable.

Please note that I reserve the right to be totally full-o-shit on this and do not mean to insult your work!
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Old 05-17-2011, 09:13 PM   #245
Fire Escape
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GPS mounting

Quote:
Originally Posted by Gallowbraid View Post
Working on a DIY mount for my GPS/MP3 player/"Am I late for work" clock. VERY rough first draft out of acrylic tonight. Going to rattle can it flat black and play with it for a bit, see how well it works (size, angle, etc...) and then take another stab at it to see if I can improve the looks / function.

Thoughts? Suggestions? Anyone wanna wash my bike?

Your bike is cleaner than mine, no washing needed. I have used that GPS on a number of bikes and find that it can be dificult to read at times but a change in angle relative to sun and riding position will usually solve the problem. That is just one of the reasons that I prefer a RAM mount for attaching the GPS. Another is that when I fall down (pretty much any time I go off-road) the RAM will move rather than break. No matter how you mount the GPS it would be a smart idea to have a tether so that if the mount fails for any reason the unit is still attached to the bike rather than back along the trail or under the tires of a semi (not that I am smart enough to always follow that advice).

Bruce
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Old 05-18-2011, 02:03 PM   #246
bennyprofane
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Quote:
Originally Posted by andrew.pdx View Post
Wow! You got my interest in that 650 shock conversion. I ride on trails as well as take all my camp gear for multi-day trips(50 lbs). I need something beefier than a stock shock. I would'a thought the one from a 650 would have raised rather than lowered the bike and the spring diameter to be to wide. I'm short too so anything that lowers it is welcome. Did you use the full spring&shock assembly off the 650 and plug the whole thing in? Details welcome.
I did a bit of poking around online, and took a chance with an Army surplus 650 shock built by Progressive. I did the swap (shock and spring) over the winter, and should have taken some pictures, but here's what I learned:

1. The bottom fork mount on the 650 shock has the same gap between the tines, but the holes for the 650's sleeve (as the fiche calls it) is smaller than the 250 (14mm vs 20mm). Wouldn't have guessed it, but it's true. The 650 uses a nut and bolt sleeve to connect to the suspension linkage, the 250 uses a smooth sleeve held on with washers and circlips. I had a machine shop drill out the holes to 20mm and it fit perfectly.

2. The bushing at the top of the 650 shock shares the same size hole as the 250, so you can re-use the fastening bolt. However, the 650's bushing is about 6mm narrower, so I used a couple of washers as spacers.

3. The overall length of the 650 shock is shorter than the 250. Again unexpected, but I'm guessing that the different suspension linkage is at work. This lowers the standover by ~1in. Also, and this was (but should not have been) a surprise, the lowering makes the kickstand much less effective as it makes the leaning angle much more acute. Shortening the kickstand is on my to do list.

4. The 650 shock is beefier (larger circumference) than the 250, but the only area where this seems to be an issue is near the airbox. Your epoxy solution sounds like exactly where I'm headed if an issue arises.

5. Order an extra set of circlips before you start, they shouldn't be used twice.

All told, it was a pretty easy swap. I don't have any handling feedback, since I'm still chasing down some electrical gremlins, but once I banish them I'll let you know how the ride is. I'll try to get some pictures up of the mounted shock. Hope that helps.
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bennyprofane screwed with this post 05-19-2011 at 05:56 AM
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Old 06-02-2011, 07:50 PM   #247
kodyowenby10
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Im lookin at buying a 1993 klr250 that was ran with out oil. The guy says motor turns freely but seal on main drive sprocket gone from oil loss. What other things could i check without tearing to much apart before i buy it to see what else could be messed up?
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Old 06-03-2011, 06:47 AM   #248
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kodyowenby10 View Post
Im lookin at buying a 1993 klr250 that was ran with out oil. The guy says motor turns freely but seal on main drive sprocket gone from oil loss. What other things could i check without tearing to much apart before i buy it to see what else could be messed up?
Pull the valve cover off and have a look at the cams. It likely won't be a pretty sight.
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Old 06-27-2011, 09:36 AM   #249
Outwardbound
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My two-fiddy runs like a rolex when it's warm. It's a right PITA to start when the outside temp is 60 or below however. It idles perfectly after startup. The plug doesn't seem to be missing, it runs great at all RPM's after starting. The valves check good. The choke works properly.

Anyone solve this riddle previously ?
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Old 07-08-2011, 02:17 PM   #250
Voidrider
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Bought a '89

Its missing a LOT of parts, but the price was right for me.

Bought it as a project, and it fits the bill to a 'T'.

I will definitely be scoping out what years have interchangeable parts.
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Old 07-08-2011, 02:33 PM   #251
Fire Escape
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Laugh Except for colors

Quote:
Originally Posted by Voidrider View Post
Its missing a LOT of parts, but the price was right for me.

Bought it as a project, and it fits the bill to a 'T'.

I will definitely be scoping out what years have interchangeable parts.

For the most part ..... all 20 years interchange .... give or take some colors and BNG

Bruce
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06 DR 650, Moose RS Holder, Handguards and Skidplate, ProTaper bars, Garmin 60CSx, Motech racks w/ 20mm Ammo cans, Renazco, TKCs summer/17" SM wheels winter 08 Scrambler, Conti Trail Attacks and BlackTiger Fork mod, 05 FSE 450, 03 KLR 250, 02 FXDX, 72 WR 250 (again), 72 SL 350 K2 (again), 72 TR6R, 06 XT 225
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Old 07-08-2011, 06:35 PM   #252
XDragRacer
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Outwardbound View Post
My two-fiddy runs like a rolex when it's warm. It's a right PITA to start when the outside temp is 60 or below however. It idles perfectly after startup. The plug doesn't seem to be missing, it runs great at all RPM's after starting. The valves check good. The choke works properly.

Anyone solve this riddle previously ?
Not much to go on; assume clean pilot jet, etc.; have you adjusted your fuel screw?

(Must remove tamper-resistant cap; gently close fuel screw ("pilot air screw," as called by Kawsaki), back out to 1.75 turns or so.)

Might help starting.
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Old 07-17-2011, 05:49 AM   #253
newcastleadam
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Pics of my new-to-me 1999 KLR Jr with 6xxx miles.







Supposedly needs the exhaust cam replaced (came with new exhaust and intake cams), will start digging into it. Not bad for $150

edit

Here's a couple of carb pics. For a bike that supposedly last ran 3+ years ago, not *that* bad. Everything came apart, cleaning all bits now, should be able to reuse everything except the o-ring.





What do you do if you don't want to use a bucket of Gunk on your carb, and it won't fit in your ultrasonic unit?



And my to-do list.



Also removed the plug to get at the mixture screw, may drill out slide later. Coming along...
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Old 08-02-2011, 11:59 AM   #254
MotoJ
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CZR muffler for KLR 250- junk, or worth the money?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/KAWAS...Q5fAccessories

Hi Kids,

Need some advice- the muffler on my new '98 looks like it's about to hole right at the first bend behind the pipe joint. Huge flakes of rust.

Are these CZRs on Ebay worth the $139 + shipping? I know you get what you pay for, but the next option I can find is a FMF for $325. Big difference for me.

Anyone running a CZR muffler? How do you like it? Any performance enhancement? Will I need to re-jet richer and open the airbox, or will a clean stock filter and adjusting the mixture screw take care of everything?

Anyone got a used exhaust they want to sell?

Thanks!
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Old 08-04-2011, 01:38 PM   #255
HandKPhil
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Cheap FMF Q4 on Ebay

I replaced the stock muffler on my '03 KLR with a FMF Q4 that I got on Ebay for $262 (delivered). I love the FMF. I re-jetted at the same time I replaced the muffler, and the bike runs perfectly.

PM me if you'd like, and make an offer on my stock muffler. I have all of the attachment hardware (nuts & bolts) also. The muffler's in great shape, w/no rust or holes. You would of course have to pay actual shipping cost too.
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