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Old 04-16-2012, 03:03 PM   #466
dan-o
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Joined: Apr 2007
Location: Bowling Green, Ohio
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klr250 cylinder head

Is the KLR250 an interference engine? Is it possible to hit the valve with the piston by over-reving the engine. Bike in question is a 2001 with 8K miles
thanks,
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Old 04-16-2012, 04:47 PM   #467
1994klr250
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dan-o View Post
Is the KLR250 an interference engine? Is it possible to hit the valve with the piston by over-reving the engine. Bike in question is a 2001 with 8K miles
thanks,
I would think the only way the valves could hit the piston is if you had a cam chain failure or if a valve spring broke. I have hit 10k rpms more than once on my 94 klr250, red line is at 9,500. I haven't sustained any damage. My bike has 35k miles on it and it still runs great.
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Fall ride on a KLR250 http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=754065

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Old 04-20-2012, 05:58 PM   #468
livetofly
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air filter

What are you guys using to clean the air filter in the klr250? The manual just says us a high flash point solvent, then oil with motor oil. What's a high flash point solvent?
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Old 04-20-2012, 06:59 PM   #469
MrBob
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Looking for a little guidance on flushing the cooling system and adding new coolant. It looks like the fluid is drained by removing the plug on the bottom of the water pump. Flushing is done with distilled water I've been told. And an aluminum component-friendly coolant is added and mixed to about -35. The bleeding cap is removed from the left radiator and the engine run until all the air is burped. Have I left anything out? I haven't found the capacity of the cooling system and it would be helpful to know that.
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Old 04-20-2012, 09:48 PM   #470
XDragRacer
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Originally Posted by MrBob View Post
I haven't found the capacity of the cooling system and it would be helpful to know that.
1.5 L.

Manual says, "When the coolant is drained, remove the cooling fan switch from the bottom of the right hand radiator after removal of the drain plug."

Don't know why; otherwise, refers to p. 5-4 in the KLR600 manual.

-----------------

BURPING most important; leave radiator cap OFF 'til coolant circulates, expelling all air in system.
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Old 04-20-2012, 10:24 PM   #471
MrBob
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Originally Posted by XDragRacer View Post
1.5 L.

Manual says, "When the coolant is drained, remove the cooling fan switch from the bottom of the right hand radiator after removal of the drain plug."
Scratching my head on this one. I can just see that switch breaking while trying to remove it and the bike laid up for another week while I wait for parts.
That's 1.5L for the 250 engine? Thanks.
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Old 04-21-2012, 07:36 AM   #472
v0llemelk
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Hi all,

I found a KLR250 with 7000 miles on the odometer for roughly $1100. The owner says it's a 1991 model, but the colour scheme (blue , white and green) matches the '88-'89 model. Any ideas on this?

Also, the current owner told me on the phone that the head gasket needs replacement. The top end has not been receiving enough oil. Also, the oil apparently turned slighty milky white. Replacing a head gasket I can do, but could there also be other and more expensive causes to these issues? I'm thinking that if the top end has not been getting enough oil, I would need to flush the oil channels with a 50-50 kero/oil mixture. I can't find any definite how-to on the matter though, suggestions would be welcome. Is there another way to clear the oil channels? Or would I have to completely dismantle the engine?

Any more tips on what to look for when I see the owner this Monday? It could be my first motorcycle. Thanks!
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Old 04-21-2012, 07:49 AM   #473
MrBob
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Quote:
Originally Posted by v0llemelk View Post
Hi all,

Also, the current owner told me on the phone that the head gasket needs replacement. The top end has not been receiving enough oil. Also, the oil apparently turned slighty milky white. Replacing a head gasket I can do, but could there also be other and more expensive causes to these issues? I'm thinking that if the top end has not been getting enough oil, I would need to flush the oil channels with a 50-50 kero/oil mixture. I can't find any definite how-to on the matter though, suggestions would be welcome. Is there another way to clear the oil channels? Or would I have to completely dismantle the engine?

Any more tips on what to look for when I see the owner this Monday? It could be my first motorcycle. Thanks!
It could have a bad head gasket but it could also be a cracked cylinder or warped or bad head due to prolonged overheating. The milky white oil does point to water contamination, which is bad news. If there has actually been oil starvation this could affect every moving part in the engine, especially bearings that could only be repaired with a complete overhaul.
Personally, I'd give this bike a pass. A few weeks ago I paid 1500.00 for mine in great condition with 4300 miles. There are lots of clean ones out there for reasonable prices. I don't know where you're located (which is why it's helpful to add this to your avatar) but you can look here for more bikes:
http://www.allofcraigs.com/
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Old 04-21-2012, 08:21 AM   #474
8gv
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I'd skip it too...

You could easily end up with a bike that costs you several times what it's worth. The old bikes depreciate but nos parts don't. Search for a replacement head for the bike. The price (new) will shock you. You could buy a used head but its pedigree will be uncertain. Non running bikes can be like cruising on the Titanic. You can only see the tip of the iceberg and by the time you do, it's too late.

Quote:
Originally Posted by v0llemelk View Post
Hi all,

I found a KLR250 with 7000 miles on the odometer for roughly $1100. The owner says it's a 1991 model, but the colour scheme (blue , white and green) matches the '88-'89 model. Any ideas on this?

Also, the current owner told me on the phone that the head gasket needs replacement. The top end has not been receiving enough oil. Also, the oil apparently turned slighty milky white. Replacing a head gasket I can do, but could there also be other and more expensive causes to these issues? I'm thinking that if the top end has not been getting enough oil, I would need to flush the oil channels with a 50-50 kero/oil mixture. I can't find any definite how-to on the matter though, suggestions would be welcome. Is there another way to clear the oil channels? Or would I have to completely dismantle the engine?

Any more tips on what to look for when I see the owner this Monday? It could be my first motorcycle. Thanks!
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Old 04-21-2012, 09:14 AM   #475
v0llemelk
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 8gv View Post
You could easily end up with a bike that costs you several times what it's worth. The old bikes depreciate but nos parts don't. Search for a replacement head for the bike. The price (new) will shock you. You could buy a used head but its pedigree will be uncertain. Non running bikes can be like cruising on the Titanic. You can only see the tip of the iceberg and by the time you do, it's too late.
It's a running bike, or so I'm told. The owner offered to take off the top-end together for inspection. I'll be sure to look carefully at the cams and cam journals for any scratches due to lack of oil. Any other problem areas I should be able to see with the naked eye, that indicate oil problems?
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Old 04-21-2012, 11:14 AM   #476
truck6driver
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I'm with them, PASS on this bike. At $1100 that is retail on a bike that needs nothing or close to it.

If you can pick it up for half that then get it because if you open the engine up you will have several hundred in it before it is over with.


Ray
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So why is it that when things are going fine, something happens to screw it up.
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Old 04-21-2012, 11:16 AM   #477
truck6driver
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Originally Posted by livetofly View Post
What are you guys using to clean the air filter in the klr250? The manual just says us a high flash point solvent, then oil with motor oil. What's a high flash point solvent?
Dawn dishwashing detergent. Heavy on the soap in a bucket and hand kneed it clean then rince well with warm or hot water. Dry and reoil. I use air filter oil from UNI in the bottle and kneed it into the filter.


Ray
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So why is it that when things are going fine, something happens to screw it up.
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Old 04-21-2012, 11:48 AM   #478
DrMoto
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heated grips

Quote:
Originally Posted by MrBob View Post
Anybody successfully running heated grips on their 250?
I put some Oxford heated grips on my '00 klr250, along with hand guards. I don't think I've ever run the grips at more than 50%, but they're nice to have, and I haven't killed the battery yet (and I never bother with a charger). I'll typically run them on a 15-mile commute in the morning and then don't need them for the ride home (I'm in coastal Georgia).
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Old 04-21-2012, 12:35 PM   #479
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search for a better front brakeperformance i found here this tipp using a DR650 brakepump . which DR650 is it from,year and model? fits it to the stock hose or need i the complete brake (pump and cylinder) ?
i test several stock pumps hoses and cylinders ,new pads.no improve,maybe fit a steelhose in before swap the suzukipump? any sugestion?


one of my trailrides.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rOCwF0y7Em8

trailhiker screwed with this post 04-21-2012 at 12:46 PM
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Old 04-21-2012, 08:57 PM   #480
MrBob
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Nice to know about the Oxfords. They're my favorite heated grips.
Today I spent two hours on the front brake. This was preceded by a week of prowling eBay to get parts together.
I pulled the master cylinder, brake line, and caliper. I flushed the MC using fresh DOT4 and a syringe. The MC was full of particles and very dirty fluid. I tossed the stock brake line and installed a Spiegler steel braided line using new banjo bolts with speed bleeders. I disassembled the front caliper and flushed it. I lightly honed the piston and installed new seals. After installing SBS pads and before reinstalling the caliper I cleaned the rotor with acetone and steel wool.
With everything bolted up I used my cheapo one man bleeder helper and the system firmed up quickly.
The end result is a remarkable improvement in the front brake. I won't be doing stoppies with it but no complaints otherwise. The speed bleeders, IMHO, represented 50 bucks I could have spent on something more useful.
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