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Old 08-16-2012, 01:36 PM   #18361
Ryman
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I'm kind of in the trenches right now, but I'd love to have a ride.
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Old 08-16-2012, 01:50 PM   #18362
HickOnACrick
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Originally Posted by Ryman View Post
I'm kind of in the trenches right now, but I'd love to have a ride.
I'll ride ya big boy
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Old 08-16-2012, 01:54 PM   #18363
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I'll ride ya big boy
Seriously......If your cummin I'm ridin.
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Old 08-16-2012, 02:09 PM   #18364
pluric
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Seriously......If your cummin I'm
swallowing.
Okay, time to take it to a PM. Some of us just had lunch .
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Old 08-16-2012, 02:11 PM   #18365
Ryman
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Okay, time to take it to a PM. Some of us just had lunch .
EEww gross. I see you and my smart phone have the same dirty mind. Who would think of that........
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Old 08-16-2012, 02:48 PM   #18366
pluric
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EEww gross. I see you and my smart phone have the same dirty mind. Who would think of that........
You and Hick. Was that some sort of trick question???
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Old 08-16-2012, 05:53 PM   #18367
GISkev
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Hey look! Hicks Keys!

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Old 08-16-2012, 06:06 PM   #18368
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Butt seriously....

so i changed the rear wheel brake pads on the Vstrom and now my brake lights are permanently on... do i need to take fluid out? if so, what's the best way to do that. I've bled lines and I've got to say that it's not my favorite wrenching operation.
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Old 08-16-2012, 06:08 PM   #18369
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so i changed the rear wheel brake pads on the Vstrom and now my brake lights are permanently on... do i need to take fluid out? if so, what's the best way to do that. I've bled lines and I've got to say that it's not my favorite wrenching operation.
Kevin, there's usually an adjusting bolt on the brake pedal to move the engagement point.
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Old 08-16-2012, 06:18 PM   #18370
pluric
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Originally Posted by GISkev View Post
so i changed the rear wheel brake pads on the Vstrom and now my brake lights are permanently on... do i need to take fluid out? if so, what's the best way to do that. I've bled lines and I've got to say that it's not my favorite wrenching operation.
Geez how thick were the new pads??? Make sure the brakes aren't dragging. Maybe bleed a little
fluid out. 8mm bleeder on the slave cylinder. Just don't let it suck air in. Quick open and close once
or twice should do it. I do have a speed bleeder if you want to replace the oil. Only takes a few minutes.

If you have this style rear brake light switch just turn it to take some spring pressure off the switch.

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Old 08-16-2012, 08:38 PM   #18371
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I was going to Cherry Creek on a dirt bike .




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Old 08-16-2012, 09:14 PM   #18372
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I was going to Cherry Creek on a dirt bike .




.
That's a good start. And?
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Old 08-16-2012, 11:10 PM   #18373
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Lmao! And EWWWWWWW!!! I'm never gonna let another elephant rub it's trunk over my face and body......again,,,,,
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Old 08-17-2012, 12:08 AM   #18374
dieselcruiserhead
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Pretty bummed, first went on a crazy adventure a couple weeks ago trying to find the end of a trail that connect Brighton Estates (up in Guardsman's) to the midway/AF canyon trails. At the end the trail disappeared and we basically had to hike a bike for a mile or two and it was steep as hell and the bikes went over probably a dozen times or so in the process.

Then after a dump there must have been some oil that got into the cyclinder somehow and it appears I lost my rings I guess. Bike starts and runs, but... 50 PSI on the cycl. Oil was coming out of the exhaust. Bummer because there aren't a whole lot of miles on this motor, maybe 2000 or so since the last rebuild? Oddly still starts and runs but definitley burning a ton of oil too..

Anyway, questions are:

- Does anyone have the top end KTM RFS tools I could borrow.

- Carb also seems to have stripped out its fuel screw because a POS aluminum Tusk knob. Do not buy a Tusk aluminum air/fuel knob for your KTM, always buy brass.

- This is an 02 which is good but has less top end than the later ones. Anyone have a '03 to '07 525 engine lying around, even if it needs a rebuild?

- Not sure if I should upgrate to a 41mm carb in the process, I have a '39 on this 02 but the later ones had the 41.

- Not sure if folks have recommendations on parts and/or where to machine locally. I'll def be finding some stainless valves at bare min and imagine the head and cyl will need some work.

- Considering pulling the bike completely apart and possibly repowdercoating the frame. Not sure if that is overkill...

All ears on recommendations...
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Old 08-17-2012, 06:56 AM   #18375
Ryman
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Isn't oil in the exhaust usually a bad valve guide seal?? Why not just pull the head and check it out?? It doesn't require any special tools. You could take the head to lindsay and check out the rings yourself. You could probably be back and running for under $100.
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