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Old 04-11-2013, 11:15 AM   #19576
utahrpm1
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Quote:
Originally Posted by warp9man View Post
Hey Utahrpm, even the rail grade was bad in sections. the mud on the rail grade is what packed up and ripped my fender and abs sensor off. the lower section next to the grade was actually better then the elevated bed was....who knew?
Thanks, I was going to give this a go soon. I think I'll wait a few weeks for things to dry out and work on that high fender conversion that I have been putting off! A 520 EXC ride out of Moab seems to make more sense.
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Old 04-11-2013, 08:04 PM   #19577
KMC1
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OHV clubs?

Hey guys,
What OHV club(s) are working to keep our trails open in Utah? I don't belong to any at this time, and am out of the loop with our trail access issues....want to fix that.

Thanks!
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Old 04-11-2013, 10:15 PM   #19578
pluric
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KMC1 View Post
Hey guys,
What OHV club(s) are working to keep our trails open in Utah? I don't belong to any at this time, and am out of the loop with our trail access issues....want to fix that.

Thanks!
http://www.usaall.org/
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Old 04-12-2013, 08:20 AM   #19579
mung
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Blue Ribbon Coalition[BRC] is also a very active group. Also, if anybody is interested in trials there is a Utah club meet on 4-20 at Jordan River ORV Park which is in the SLC area by the 215 north loop.Fun to watch and a challenge to ride.
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Old 04-12-2013, 10:52 AM   #19580
KMC1
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Thanks guys!
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Old 04-12-2013, 05:15 PM   #19581
quota
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Originally Posted by Slickhorn View Post

Looks good. Especially the new seat and tank bag. Enjoy your ride.
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Old 04-12-2013, 10:19 PM   #19582
Flashmo
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Technical question:

Being new to Utah, once I establish my legal residency I assume that I will be referred to a Utahn.

How long do you have to be in state before you become a full on Utard?

Possible mitigating factors...

1. From Idaho, so I know what a Utard is...outside of Utah...

2. Living on the Wasatch Back...yup...right in it's rear...somewhere between Soldier Hollow and Homestead (there was no smog inversion here this winter ).

3. If I keep my MC licensed in another state, can I just claim that I am only on extended vacation and keep the 'Tard clock from starting its count down? Driving to Malad every couple weeks for beer and lottery tickets counts for residency...right?

4. I drive like a grandma, so if you are stuck in a line of cars...you are probably behind me.

5. I don't know the secret handshake...

6. By posing this question...am I already a 'tard?
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Old 04-13-2013, 07:49 AM   #19583
pluric
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You just lowered the our state IQ coming from Idaho. Guess you will fit right in.
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Old 04-13-2013, 08:45 AM   #19584
The Walrus
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Flashmo View Post
Technical question:

Being new to Utah, once I establish my legal residency I assume that I will be referred to a Utahn.

How long do you have to be in state before you become a full on Utard?

Possible mitigating factors...

1. From Idaho, so I know what a Utard is...outside of Utah...

2. Living on the Wasatch Back...yup...right in it's rear...somewhere between Soldier Hollow and Homestead (there was no smog inversion here this winter ).

3. If I keep my MC licensed in another state, can I just claim that I am only on extended vacation and keep the 'Tard clock from starting its count down? Driving to Malad every couple weeks for beer and lottery tickets counts for residency...right?

4. I drive like a grandma, so if you are stuck in a line of cars...you are probably behind me.

5. I don't know the secret handshake...

6. By posing this question...am I already a 'tard?


You'll need to buy either a 10 year old KLR (no, the DL doesn't count) or a KTM and drink the koolaid........
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Old 04-13-2013, 09:55 PM   #19585
Flashmo
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pluric View Post
You just lowered the our state IQ coming from Idaho. Guess you will fit right in.
I was kinda hoping to gloss over that fact...
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Old 04-16-2013, 02:00 PM   #19586
dozer
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Flashmo View Post
Technical question:

If I keep my MC licensed in another state, can I just claim that I am only on extended vacation and keep the 'Tard clock from starting its count down? Driving to Malad every couple weeks for beer, Black Label and lottery tickets counts for residency...right?
Fixed

How ya been Flashmo, are you still building Fly Rods?
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Old 04-16-2013, 05:42 PM   #19587
Flashmo
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Originally Posted by dozer View Post
Fixed

How ya been Flashmo, are you still building Fly Rods?
Still at it...just a change of scenery.
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Old 04-16-2013, 06:52 PM   #19588
dieselcruiserhead
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Location: Park City, Utah
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mung View Post
Before you spend on a revalve I would try stiffer springs and lighter oil[2.5 wt. at 130 mm from top]. Also ,I do not know if your year of fork has a third[middle] bushing but if it does than take it out and it will work smoother in the choppy stuff.Also if you need to rebuild or reseal your forks consider putting in KTMs hard parts seal and bushing kit which has slippery seals,wipers and bushings.The whole kit is 90 bucks.It is what is stock on 13 models.
Mung,
not sure if you remember this but I finally got around to the fork oil and seal change. PO claimed that the forks were recently serviced, pretty much no way that could be true. clips keeping fork seals in were rusty, OEM KTM seals likely from new, and the oil was molasses-like and full of contaminants. So basically oil was completely toast. All changed up and feeling great and nice and soft and plush. Installed SFK seals with Judy Butter (a mountain bike fork lube specifically designed for seals). It also wasn't bottoming out because it turned out I have either .46 or .48 (my guess is .48) springs in there already from the PO. Just the poor small bump compliance because the oil was shot. So very basic, excited to see how it works out. I also did 120mm oil level and 5 weight mostly because this is what I had lying around, but took your advice sorta / close to it...
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Old 04-17-2013, 08:40 AM   #19589
mung
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Glad it sorta worked.KTM usually has very high quality fork oil and it takes a long time for it to get that bad.Do not remember the year of your bike but if it is pre 08 when you change the oil again[soon] you might want to take out the 3rd bushing which is the aluminum sleeve that is about 2 inches around and 7 inches long in the middle of the fork.Much better bump compliance.If the fork oil was that bad the shock oil for sure needs help.Have you serviced the shock yet? Mark from Idaho coming to Utah this weekend to raise the IQ average! [for Pluric]
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Old 04-17-2013, 12:00 PM   #19590
dieselcruiserhead
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thx mung and right on.. Bike is a 2010. Rear shock was completely serviced in the fall, it has a racetech nitrogen cartridge in it instead of the stock valving system. Rear feels awesome right now and hasn't needed any work other than fresh nitrogen and fluid...

The only issue I'm "feeling" right now (and I remember you had some good comments about this) is it appears to be about .48 or .46 springs up front, and then the PDS-4 in the rear which is a 8.5kg to 11. The rear spring came from the back of my RFS bike and felt great on this bike, possibly even under-sprung on underneath my 235 lbs.

When I switched it over to the 2010 I was aware of the leverage ratio change and the same spring feels much stiffer. It actually feels pretty good, and I'm happy with it, but it also feels like it is driving too much into the front suspension. Some of it might be me, some of it might be getting used to the new style frame with different front steering handling (and I really like the precision of the handling), and some might even be setting the rear sag lower. So that's what I've done as of right now as the next step, basically drop the rear sag in the rear to see what happens. I'm also considering going to stiffer front springs like a .50 or .52 possibly to see if that helps, and/or finally going to a lighter spring in the rear. I remember you were saying the PDS-4 was good under your weight on the later bikes?

thanks
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