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Old 11-22-2014, 10:05 PM   #1
Hedonist222 OP
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need more height - stack risers OR raised handlebars

Like the title says,I need more height.

I'm on a 2015 500 EXC.

I'm almost 6'1.

At this point I have a sub mount Scotts damper & a BRP riser.

25mm from the sub mounted damper & 31mm from the riser. I'm still hunching over the bars.

I feel I'd need another 30mm.

What's the best way forward?

Stack another riser on top of the 31mm or get a raised handlebar?

Thx
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Old 11-23-2014, 06:17 AM   #2
markk53
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which ever costs less.

I would buy good quality high bend bars (ATV bars are usually a lot higher rise than MC) before spending big bucks on a Rox riser, but if it was a $30 set of blocks I'd do them first. Unless you don't like the present bend of your bars, then back to bars. I wouldn't get concerned about stacking blocks.

If you do blocks get some quality hardware, at least grade 8.8 but grade 10.9 would be better. You can go stainless, but if so, be sure to get some anti-seize compound for the threads. I'd get socket head bolts.
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Old 11-23-2014, 09:51 PM   #3
Hedonist222 OP
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I can do the attack stance.

Sometimes I think I don't need more.

But I see a lot of riders standing up on straight stretches then assuming the attack stance when needed, then upright again.

I should mention, I'm doing enduro riding (fire trails & canyons).
I rarely need to assume the attack stance.

So the upright position is my issue.

Hence me looking to raise it a bit more.

When looking at aftermarket bars, how do I compare height differences between my stock bar & the aftermarket one?

Aftermarket bars specify height, KTM doesn't mention specs of the stick neken bar on my 2015 KTM 500 EXC.

I'm looking at the windham or rc high bend (99mm height).
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Old 11-24-2014, 09:51 AM   #4
markk53
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I don't quite get all the standing bolt upright riding thing. It would make sense if one is riding Dakar or such with a big twin, but not so much on regular light weight singles. Most enduro riders have standard bars, but at over 6 foot you might have need for a bit more.

Watch any enduro/harescramble/XC and you will see they spend a fair amount of time on the seat when having to put a foot down working rough terrain and also when on a part where they can rest a bit. You don't see them with high bars (except for taller riders) standing up all the time on the trails. They stand when needed, not all the time.

This was what we did when racing harescrambles. At 5'7" standard lower MX bars worked great. Too high made leverage issues. Now riding a dual sport I still only stand when needed and usually crouched slightly to deal with what is needed, not bolt upright (unless I am stretching out on the road or if I farted).

I had a set of Rox 2" risers on my 250 when I got it. When I rode it felt like I had a hold of mini ape hangers. Pulled them off and sold them. My brother, who is a bit taller than I, bought risers for his 250 apparently because everyone said "they need risers". He rode a few times and yanked them out. I should tell you now, both of us had ridden trials bikes for a fair amount of time, so it wasn't like we didn't stand when riding. We both just didn't like the feel when riding seated or standing. Plus a lower bar works better keeping weight forward on hill climbs and, for us shorter guys, when paddling through ruts/mud/sand. Lower bends are perfectly placed for those "in the seat" conditions.

I'd say ride with what you have and see if you actually need to do anything different. I know the late Jim Pomeroy ran about a 4"-5" rise handlebar on his Bultacos, but he was 6'4". Bultaco put them on the Pomeroy Replicas and most riders who were under 6' put on some lower CZ bend bars. See how the set up works for your actual riding. I have some experience with a big bore having the 650 and run a low bend on it too. If I had a GS or V-Strom it might be different, but not on a single.
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Ever get lost? You know, that good kind of lost - come to a dirt road intersection and you have no idea where you are or which way to turn? I like when that happens!

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95 KLX650C w/Vulcan piston bigbore, Now an 09 KLX250S, selling my 90 Zephyr 550
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Old 11-24-2014, 11:11 AM   #5
Hedonist222 OP
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Thanks for the input Mark.

Just to clarify, I don't intend on standing the whole time, nor bolt upright either. I intend to stand when needed but I find myself excessively hunched. So much so I cannot lift my left foot off the peg to shift gears.

If I'm able to stand up straight, then taking on the attack stance would be easy & at my will.

Right now I can only hunch over or assume the attack position -which as you can imagine is tedious for the former & exhausting for the latter.
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Old 11-27-2014, 07:01 AM   #6
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My point actually was "Don't follow the masses, they may be wrong for you." With enough riding time you get to know how much you may need to stand/sit and make adjustments as such. I rode trials bikes initially and get the concept, but when I rode my 250 with the 2" Rox risers (the ones usually suggested) I found them to be way too high and I was actually taller than the previous owner! Too tall makes it hard to maneuver. Standard set up with the MX Renthals set well for the woods for me... but I'm obviously shorter than you. Thing is it is free to screw with the bars moving them a bit forward. From there it costs money.

You have the lead and know the problem. First step would be to rotate the bars a bit forward too, better for standing. Pretty much all trials bikes have the bars forward angling the grips up a bit, because they are ridden while standing a vast majority of the time. Forward also suites a taller rider with longer arms too, when sitting. Then do some spacers from there. An instant jump to a 2" or more riser is an expensive guesstimate.

If you want to do the job in steps and the mounts have a flat base you can use something like 1.250" x .500" or even 1.250" x .250" (or whatever metric may be) aluminum bar stock, cut and drilled to suit as spacers, moving up in .250-.500" steps. Figure out what rise you need with the down and dirty low buck "stack 'em up" set up, then either do a one piece riser or high rise bars. Couple of bucks in aluminum and longer bolts saves spending a lot without being sure. Do a neat job with the spacers and you may leave them instead of buying bars or risers. I did a 1/2" rise on my Zephyr 550 streetbike, the stock low bar set up was too much lean for me.
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Ever get lost? You know, that good kind of lost - come to a dirt road intersection and you have no idea where you are or which way to turn? I like when that happens!

Mark - klx678
95 KLX650C w/Vulcan piston bigbore, Now an 09 KLX250S, selling my 90 Zephyr 550

markk53 screwed with this post 11-27-2014 at 07:18 AM
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Old 11-27-2014, 09:30 AM   #7
Hedonist222 OP
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Thanks Mark and I understand your point.
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Old 11-27-2014, 11:00 AM   #8
simbaboy
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Protaper SE ATV highbend.
You may need to reroute the clutch and throttle cables.
Simba

on my DR350SE and also have them installed on my DR650SE.
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Old 11-27-2014, 12:33 PM   #9
Big Tall Bastard
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I'm 6'6" and ride a highly modified 87 XR600R. I've got Emig's triples with the steering dampener and riser on my bike and use a set of bars for a Yamaha Raptor. Its tall but it works for me
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