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Old 08-22-2012, 09:54 AM   #121
wannaklr
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Location: Back In Iowa. Quad Cities to be exactish..
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wannaklr View Post
Everytime this thread gets bumped I go looking for a 94 with the Krauser bags.

And my DL is getting boring!
So put up or shut up!!


Where oh where is that 94?
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Old 08-22-2012, 10:42 AM   #122
slartidbartfast
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Originally Posted by cobrajunkie View Post
1994 Yamaha GTS1000 For Sale - $6,500.00

Excellent condition 21,000 miles. Title in hand. I'd be happy to take any additional pictures per request.

- New Michelin 2CT tires front and rear
- New Adjustable Windscreen deflector
- New 530 chain conversion with new front and rear JT sprockets
- New three set Nelson Riggs soft luggage
- New OEM grips
- New in box MRA shorty spoiler screen (never installed)
- Corbin Seat and original OEM seat
- GIVI Hard bags with mounting hardware
- Complete set of factory service manuals
- Ten period motocycle publications with GTS1000 reviews
- Newly refurbished ABS module (not installed)

ABS is NOT functional (typical for this age bike) but newly refurbished ABS module is included. This GTS DOES NOT have a high oil consumption issue that is sometimes associated with this motorcycle. Price is firm.
Most of your photo links are broken

Nice looking bike! Why wouldn't you fit the refurb ABS unit?

Windscreen deflector looks good. How well does it work?
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MSF Ridercoach IBA: 35353 95 R1100GSA, 93 GTS1000, 85 R80RT, 93 DR350/435, 99 RX125, 78 DT100
January 2010 New Zealand South Island ride
Summer 2009 UK to Alps ride
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Old 08-22-2012, 10:57 AM   #123
cobrajunkie
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Quote:
Originally Posted by slartidbartfast View Post
Most of your photo links are broken

Nice looking bike! Why wouldn't you fit the refurb ABS unit?

Windscreen deflector looks good. How well does it work?
Anyone else experiencing broken links? Working OK for me. Being hosted by Google Photos and it seems to have taken a different look now than when I posted earlier.

As for the ABS unit. I have multiple projects going so it arrived recently and on the shelf. Simply not enough time.

The deflector works great for reducing buffeting. The shorter sport windscreen is supposed to help as well to deflect wind to your torso rather than your helmet.
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Old 08-22-2012, 11:16 AM   #124
slartidbartfast
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cobrajunkie View Post
Anyone else experiencing broken links? Working OK for me. Being hosted by Google Photos and it seems to have taken a different look now than when I posted earlier.

As for the ABS unit. I have multiple projects going so it arrived recently and on the shelf. Simply not enough time.

The deflector works great for reducing buffeting. The shorter sport windscreen is supposed to help as well to deflect wind to your torso rather than your helmet.
Photos are now working.

I think you might expect to get closer to your asking price if the ABS is confirmed as working.

What brand is the windscreen deflector?

Thanks!
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MSF Ridercoach IBA: 35353 95 R1100GSA, 93 GTS1000, 85 R80RT, 93 DR350/435, 99 RX125, 78 DT100
January 2010 New Zealand South Island ride
Summer 2009 UK to Alps ride
Summer 2008 UK End-to-End ride
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Old 08-25-2012, 04:44 PM   #125
slartidbartfast
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After more than a year, I continue to be impressed by this bike. The front brake, however, while always smooth and powerful, always had too much "give". This was true both before and after I rebuilt the ABS and despite following the recommended procedure to rotate the caliper down around the disk while bleeding.

I flushed the brakes today (annual maintenance) and finally banished the bubble. Had to remove the caliper completely and hold it at just the right angle to get the bleed nipple uppermost (relative to the sides as well as the ends - if that makes sense.) I also ran the ABS cycle test before and part-way through each flush, to try and reduce the chance of having a pocket of stale fluid trapped somewhere. As the caliper was off the disk, I put a couple of tire irons between the brake pads.

[Note nasty brake fluid color in the container on the floor was from an old 125 I am restoring, not the GTS this time, thankfully]

Brakes are now nice and tight, as they should have been all along.
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MSF Ridercoach IBA: 35353 95 R1100GSA, 93 GTS1000, 85 R80RT, 93 DR350/435, 99 RX125, 78 DT100
January 2010 New Zealand South Island ride
Summer 2009 UK to Alps ride
Summer 2008 UK End-to-End ride

slartidbartfast screwed with this post 08-28-2012 at 09:47 AM
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Old 08-28-2012, 08:13 AM   #126
rotten
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Good to know! I now know what my next job is.... I just got done dealing with "the serge" issue aka tps. Bike was starting to drive me nuts, nasty hesitation 2.5 - 4k rpm.... Now smooth again.
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Old 08-28-2012, 09:45 AM   #127
slartidbartfast
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Originally Posted by rotten View Post
Good to know! I now know what my next job is.... I just got done dealing with "the serge" issue aka tps. Bike was starting to drive me nuts, nasty hesitation 2.5 - 4k rpm.... Now smooth again.
I have seen several posts about various adjustments to try and reduce surge and the rather abrupt off-idle behavior. It seems to me that a TPS adjustment might help - What did you do and what were the effects?
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MSF Ridercoach IBA: 35353 95 R1100GSA, 93 GTS1000, 85 R80RT, 93 DR350/435, 99 RX125, 78 DT100
January 2010 New Zealand South Island ride
Summer 2009 UK to Alps ride
Summer 2008 UK End-to-End ride
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Old 08-28-2012, 10:30 AM   #128
rotten
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Originally Posted by slartidbartfast View Post
I have seen several posts about various adjustments to try and reduce surge and the rather abrupt off-idle behavior. It seems to me that a TPS adjustment might help - What did you do and what were the effects?
1. Set pots on Ecu to 1 O'clock there is a sticker covering the pots need to remove to access. This adjust injection duration. Got better results when adjusted to 11 O'clock which technically leans out air fuel. Surge is caused by mix richening in wrong throttle posistioning.

2. Tried to adjust the tps to specified voltage (gts owners forum ) .58 volts. Started at .66 volts tips had never been touched still had factory marks. Using fluke meter on 2nd and 3rd wire (1st wire is blue for 5 volts) while bike was cold NO LOVE. Needed to warm the bike and adjusted by ear 1st to get it close even very minor movement will change voltage several tenths. Then applied meter to .58 volts.

3. Needed to bump up idle to stock it dropped below 1000 rpm so brought back to ~1050rpm.

Ride this morning was wonderful! Smooth ....

If you are having issues below 2k rpm I would look at vaccume lines 1st, tps is notorious for 3-4k rpms.

Btw in case you don't know where the tips is located.... Under lower right side faring.

rotten screwed with this post 08-28-2012 at 04:39 PM Reason: More info
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Old 09-01-2012, 12:19 AM   #129
strom thingie
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Quote:
Originally Posted by slartidbartfast View Post
After more than a year, I continue to be impressed by this bike. The front brake, however, while always smooth and powerful, always had too much "give". This was true both before and after I rebuilt the ABS and despite following the recommended procedure to rotate the caliper down around the disk while bleeding.

I flushed the brakes today (annual maintenance) and finally banished the bubble. Had to remove the caliper completely and hold it at just the right angle to get the bleed nipple uppermost (relative to the sides as well as the ends - if that makes sense.) I also ran the ABS cycle test before and part-way through each flush, to try and reduce the chance of having a pocket of stale fluid trapped somewhere. As the caliper was off the disk, I put a couple of tire irons between the brake pads.

[Note nasty brake fluid color in the container on the floor was from an old 125 I am restoring, not the GTS this time, thankfully]

Brakes are now nice and tight, as they should have been all along.
I'm tackling this issue this very weekend. Brakes stop the bike but there's a lot of slop in the brake lever until the bike begins slowing down. Also, you got any tips on adjusting the rear shock? I can't get the damn sleeve thingie to rotate. I'm about to tear down the whole rear just to get to the shock.
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Old 09-01-2012, 06:37 PM   #130
rotten
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Originally Posted by strom thingie View Post
I'm tackling this issue this very weekend. Brakes stop the bike but there's a lot of slop in the brake lever until the bike begins slowing down. Also, you got any tips on adjusting the rear shock? I can't get the damn sleeve thingie to rotate. I'm about to tear down the whole rear just to get to the shock.
Just read on GTS owners a solution for the front brake that I am considering. Attach the front brake directly to the front caliper bypassing the ABS but leaving it attached for the rear only.

Sorry no help with rear shock only adjusted once and no problem.
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Old 09-01-2012, 07:15 PM   #131
slartidbartfast
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rotten View Post
Just read on GTS owners a solution for the front brake that I am considering. Attach the front brake directly to the front caliper bypassing the ABS but leaving it attached for the rear only.

Sorry no help with rear shock only adjusted once and no problem.
Why would you do that if there are other ways of getting that last bubble out? - As I just found out.

I had wondered about using one of these (available from Wemoto and several eBay suppliers):

which would allow bleeding the caliper without detaching it from the suspension arm and so might also have the desired result (couldn't hurt anyway).
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MSF Ridercoach IBA: 35353 95 R1100GSA, 93 GTS1000, 85 R80RT, 93 DR350/435, 99 RX125, 78 DT100
January 2010 New Zealand South Island ride
Summer 2009 UK to Alps ride
Summer 2008 UK End-to-End ride
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Old 09-01-2012, 07:36 PM   #132
rotten
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It's not for getting the air out of the line, I believe the primary reason would to be take the fickle ABS out of the equation and maintain easier maintenance of the over all system. I like the idea of keeping ABS in the rear but would be happy to give it up for front to maintain firm breaking. Honestly not happy with the ABS and would be fine with removal if the ECU would allow it?
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Old 09-01-2012, 09:04 PM   #133
slartidbartfast
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rotten View Post
It's not for getting the air out of the line, I believe the primary reason would to be take the fickle ABS out of the equation and maintain easier maintenance of the over all system. I like the idea of keeping ABS in the rear but would be happy to give it up for front to maintain firm breaking. Honestly not happy with the ABS and would be fine with removal if the ECU would allow it?
As long as the ABS actually works (i.e. the pump is not corroded/siezed up) I would not call the ABS fickle. If it DOES work, then it probably works for both brakes so I don't quite understand why you would want it for the rear brake only.
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MSF Ridercoach IBA: 35353 95 R1100GSA, 93 GTS1000, 85 R80RT, 93 DR350/435, 99 RX125, 78 DT100
January 2010 New Zealand South Island ride
Summer 2009 UK to Alps ride
Summer 2008 UK End-to-End ride
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Old 09-02-2012, 06:10 PM   #134
rotten
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Quote:
Originally Posted by slartidbartfast View Post
As long as the ABS actually works (i.e. the pump is not corroded/siezed up) I would not call the ABS fickle. If it DOES work, then it probably works for both brakes so I don't quite understand why you would want it for the rear brake only.
And that is OK... People are strange don't necessarily have reasons.
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Old 10-30-2012, 05:46 PM   #135
Fangit
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Just to address the comments about the front disc rotor being no longer available for the GTS. This is not true. I recently got one through CMSNL.com and it was a lot less than $800 also, even with shipping to Australia. They were out of stock for something like a year waiting for a new production batch, but they are now in stock again at 268 euros.


Fangit screwed with this post 10-31-2012 at 04:25 AM
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