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Old 07-19-2013, 07:39 AM   #1396
laramie LC4 OP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SBG View Post
Okay, dyno jetted, airlock fully open, exhaust. I dropped the main down from recommended because full throttle was cooking it out when trying to go on a hurry. Now, here's the issue. My air/fuel screw(I know I'll be corrected) is basically closed. If it goes half a turn it starts hesitating, which I believe should occur 2 full turns in our more. So, what's needs to be done, pilot jet up or down. Currently stock on a 1990.
if your "fuel" screw is fully closed then you need a smaller idle, or your bleeding fuel from somewhere else that is richening the circuit.

i hade an issue once with my xr400, rebuilt the carb and engine at the same time and when i was putting things back together i must have slightly bent the needle. for the life of me i couldnt get the bike to idle correctly, its was really rich but i was using a much smaller than recommended idle. finally i figured out the issue, put in a new needle, went back to the recommended idle jet size and she fired right up. the bent needle was allowing fuel to bleed into the system at idle richening everything to the point of not wanting to run.

good luck,

laramie
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Old 07-19-2013, 07:41 AM   #1397
laramie LC4 OP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wrk2surf View Post
I dont know if it has been done but maybe we could do a list of reccomended wear parts that seem to be the most used like a minimum list and then maybe a list of a complete rebuild..
if someone wants to put together a list i will go back in and add it to the original post. while i'm at it i will "fix" my grammatical errors.

laters,

laramie
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Old 07-19-2013, 07:43 AM   #1398
laramie LC4 OP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bmwktmbill View Post
I have had enough misdirection and I try not to take anything personally especially here on ADVRIDER where each of us is...a fucking asshole.

bill
i'm starting to think that some think that's my new middle name....

laramie
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Old 07-19-2013, 09:37 AM   #1399
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POST UPDATED

- fixed nomenclature of "mislabeled" parts in text

- fixed pics with incorrect nomenclature

- added wvrocks "plastic shitty nut" replacement for the choke cable to the post


if someone wants to build a "consumable" parts list with part numbers (ktm oem numbers when possible) i will add that as well.

laters,

laramie
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Old 07-23-2013, 06:10 AM   #1400
meat popsicle
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wvrocks View Post
I recieved my "insert part name here" from Procycle. Fits perfectly and works as it should.

Thanks for sharing your find - did the Procycle part come with the rubber boot?

My two cents, as I do lots of this: searching for things requires terms; since each manufacturer decided to call it something different it is useful to have a discussion about it. The only problem I noticed is interpretation of post tone and emotional baggage; ADV is truly international (more so that America) so you can't assume you understand an inmate's intent, and we all need to remember to let things go and worry about what actually matters to you in your life.

Speaking of which, I wonder if replacing the plastic thingey with a metal one is a good idea. Remember a engineer likely specified a plastic part for a reason; why would they? Maybe Mikuni found that being able to break is better for the circuit's integrity - remember the torque values on your fork triple tree bolts, low to allow them to slip before your forks bend in a crash - maybe Mikuni found plastic to be more resilient in this application.

Call Mikuni and ask them:

Mikuni American Corporation
(847) 781-2000
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Old 07-23-2013, 07:04 AM   #1401
lamotovita
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Quote:
Originally Posted by meat popsicle View Post
Thanks for sharing your find - did the Procycle part come with the rubber boot?

My two cents, as I do lots of this: searching for things requires terms; since each manufacturer decided to call it something different it is useful to have a discussion about it. The only problem I noticed is interpretation of post tone and emotional baggage; ADV is truly international (more so that America) so you can't assume you understand an inmate's intent, and we all need to remember to let things go and worry about what actually matters to you in your life.

Speaking of which, I wonder if replacing the plastic thingey with a metal one is a good idea. Remember a engineer likely specified a plastic part for a reason; why would they? Maybe Mikuni found that being able to break is better for the circuit's integrity - remember the torque values on your fork triple tree bolts, low to allow them to slip before your forks bend in a crash - maybe Mikuni found plastic to be more resilient in this application.

Call Mikuni and ask them:

Mikuni American Corporation
(847) 781-2000
Aluminum threaded into aluminum can corrode and seize, possibly ruining a carb body upon removal. It looks like the aftermarket part has a good hard finish on it which should help, but the plastic part would likely never damage a carb body.
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Old 07-23-2013, 07:25 AM   #1402
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Quote:
Originally Posted by meat popsicle View Post
Thanks for sharing your find - did the Procycle part come with the rubber boot?

My two cents, as I do lots of this: searching for things requires terms; since each manufacturer decided to call it something different it is useful to have a discussion about it. The only problem I noticed is interpretation of post tone and emotional baggage; ADV is truly international (more so that America) so you can't assume you understand an inmate's intent, and we all need to remember to let things go and worry about what actually matters to you in your life.

Speaking of which, I wonder if replacing the plastic thingey with a metal one is a good idea. Remember a engineer likely specified a plastic part for a reason; why would they? Maybe Mikuni found that being able to break is better for the circuit's integrity - remember the torque values on your fork triple tree bolts, low to allow them to slip before your forks bend in a crash - maybe Mikuni found plastic to be more resilient in this application.

Call Mikuni and ask them:

Mikuni American Corporation
(847) 781-2000
Good thoughts.

The rubber boot didn't come with the fitting, I was in the carb rebuild kit from Motolab.

I considered the aluminum/aluminum connection and put a thin coat of anti-seize on it just in case.

If a crash caused the plastic part to break, I would suspect I'll have bigger problems than the enrichment circuit. Its pretty well protected inside the frame. The plastic part breaking would be better than the carb itself breaking for sure. I'm willing to risk it in this case.
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Old 07-23-2013, 10:33 PM   #1403
Tseta
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wvrocks View Post
Got all my carb parts from Derek and got it all rebuilt. Unfortunately when I was putting the carb back in the bike that shitty plastic nut broke. Snapped off right at the top of the threads. I was able to get it out with an awl and a small hammer. Also discovered that the throttle cable had worn through the elbow which didn't improve my mood.

Anyway, I went off in search of a new plastic nut. Figured I'd order two to assure that I didn't break one. Found them for $6 each from KTM but decided to look around a bit more. I ended up locating what I think will be a better option from Pro Cycle http://www.procycle.us/bikepages/dr650.html




I'm not sure how long these have been available but it looks like a good solution.
Quote:
Originally Posted by meat popsicle View Post
Thanks for sharing your find - did the Procycle part come with the rubber boot?

My two cents, as I do lots of this: searching for things requires terms; since each manufacturer decided to call it something different it is useful to have a discussion about it. The only problem I noticed is interpretation of post tone and emotional baggage; ADV is truly international (more so that America) so you can't assume you understand an inmate's intent, and we all need to remember to let things go and worry about what actually matters to you in your life.

Speaking of which, I wonder if replacing the plastic thingey with a metal one is a good idea. Remember a engineer likely specified a plastic part for a reason; why would they? Maybe Mikuni found that being able to break is better for the circuit's integrity - remember the torque values on your fork triple tree bolts, low to allow them to slip before your forks bend in a crash - maybe Mikuni found plastic to be more resilient in this application.

Call Mikuni and ask them:

Mikuni American Corporation
(847) 781-2000
Quote:
Originally Posted by lamotovita View Post
Aluminum threaded into aluminum can corrode and seize, possibly ruining a carb body upon removal. It looks like the aftermarket part has a good hard finish on it which should help, but the plastic part would likely never damage a carb body.

The idea of replacing the plastic choke nut/screw/holder(/whatever) with a more durable version is not a new one and has been discussed also in this thread earlier, some two years ago (linky). It's good that ProCycle has come up with a commercial product to address this problem, although due to corrosion issues, brass might have been a better material choice.

Cheers,

Tseta
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Old 07-24-2013, 09:28 AM   #1404
motolab
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Originally Posted by bmwktmbill View Post
Derek,
Are you a German or European?
My mother was German. I spent 10+ of my formative years living and going to school in Germany.

Regards,

Derek
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Old 07-24-2013, 09:34 AM   #1405
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tseta View Post
The idea of replacing the plastic choke nut/screw/holder(/whatever) with a more durable version is not a new one and has been discussed also in this thread earlier, some two years ago (linky).
BST40 carbs use a cold start enrichment circuit instead of a choke. A choke is closed when an engine is cold and opened when it is warm, whereas a fuel enrichment circuit is opened when the engine is cold and closed when it is warm. A choke works by restricting the air flow, whereas an enrichment circuit works by adding extra fuel. A choke requires a fast idle cam or something akin to it (or you have to hold the throttle open manually), whereas an enrichment circuit adds a little extra air simultaneously with the extra fuel, so the fast idle is already built in.

Regards,

Derek
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Old 07-26-2013, 08:52 AM   #1406
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Quote:
Originally Posted by motolab View Post
BST40 carbs use a cold start enrichment circuit instead of a choke. A choke is closed when an engine is cold and opened when it is warm, whereas a fuel enrichment circuit is opened when the engine is cold and closed when it is warm. A choke works by restricting the air flow, whereas an enrichment circuit works by adding extra fuel. A choke requires a fast idle cam or something akin to it (or you have to hold the throttle open manually), whereas an enrichment circuit adds a little extra air simultaneously with the extra fuel, so the fast idle is already built in.

Regards,

Derek

Why does activating the enrichment circuit make the starter work harder? My bike will crank well with the enrichment circuit closed, but sometimes when I open the enrichment circuit the cranking motor will stop dead in it's tracks.
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Old 07-27-2013, 08:07 AM   #1407
meat popsicle
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tseta View Post
The idea of replacing the plastic choke nut/screw/holder(/whatever) with a more durable version is not a new one and has been discussed also in this thread earlier, some two years ago (linky). It's good that ProCycle has come up with a commercial product to address this problem, although due to corrosion issues, brass might have been a better material choice.

Cheers,

Tseta
We really are a dog chasing our own tail...
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Old 07-27-2013, 09:35 AM   #1408
laramie LC4 OP
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Originally Posted by meat popsicle View Post
We really are a dog chasing our own tail...
whoof, whoof!

Sorry Tseta, guess I missed that....

laramie
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Old 07-27-2013, 10:15 AM   #1409
motolab
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tseta View Post
It's good that ProCycle has come up with a commercial product to address this problem, although due to corrosion issues, brass might have been a better material choice.
Brass and aluminum, having differing galvanic potentials, will actually be more prone to corrosion next to each other than aluminum and aluminum. Obviously we've seen that this is not a big issue, with jets and such being made from brass. What I would be concerned with when screwing an aluminum part into an aluminum hole is galling, as I have seen extended fuel screws made of aluminum completely seize in the carb body, thereby rendering it useless.

Regards,

Derek
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Old 07-27-2013, 09:43 PM   #1410
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Originally Posted by meat popsicle View Post
We really are a dog chasing our own tail...

WOOF!

Hi Meaty.

I parked my '03 Adventure 3 years and 2 months ago (2010) when it ran out of rego, but had to move it recently, so I hooked up a jumpstart pack and presto!, it fired up and idled like a bought one on 3 year old fuel.

I love this bike eh. I've been riding my Honda XR600 mostly though, as it has a new top end and needs bugger-all work done to it.

How's yours these days?
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