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Old 02-25-2015, 08:14 PM   #1
Kray OP
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K.Ray's 2015 Yamaha WR250R Fantastic Buildup Thread


K.Ray's 2015 Yamaha WR250R
VIN: JYADG21E8FA007439



This is my '15 Yamaha WR250R. I purchased this little beast on Feb 25, 2015 from my local shop with zero(0) miles. She replaces a Honda CB500X and a CRF250L. I was never fully happy with either of the Honda bikes. Neither did anything I wanted to do very well. The Yamaha is in a league of its own. I went back and forth between the DRZ400 and the WR250R. Ultimately, I picked the WR because of it's superior transmission, fuel injection, light weight aluminium frame, and power efficiency. It's a very modern machine that nearly bests the DRZ for a small guy like myself.




Hardgoods:
Engine/Drivetrain:
Airbox Flapper Removal

Body/Chassis:
Flatlands Skidplate

Cockpit:
Zeta Handguards

Storage:
Moto-Racks.com Rear Side Racks
▪Wolfman Expedition Saddle Bags
▪Wolfman Expedition Medium Duffle Bag
▪Wolfman E-12 Saddle Bags

Misc:
Black Widow Motorcycle Stand

Softgoods:
Road:
Bilt Explorer Adventure Helmet
ContourROAM2 Helmet Cam
Sedici Napli Jacket
Alpinestar Octane-S Moto Gloves (summer)
▪Alpinestar Apex Drystar Gloves (winter)
▪Alpinestar S-MX Boots
▪Klim Mojave Pants w/ upgraded D3O armor
Osprey Raptor 14

Dirt:
Fox 180 Pants
Fox Titan Sport Jacket
Gaerne GX-1 Boots
O'Neal 2013 7 Series Helmet - Ultra-Lite LE 83
▪Smith I/O Goggles

Journals, Documents, and Write-ups:
How-To: Suspension Tuning/Setup
WR250R/X Torque Spec Tables
TransAm Trail Section Journal
▪Here's a short video documenting what it's like commuting on a Yamaha WR250R.



My Local ADV shop:

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Old 03-01-2015, 06:34 PM   #2
Kray OP
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I'm a short lightweight rider. 5'6" at about 135lbs with riding gear. My first adjustment to the WRR was to lower the seat height. I chose to run the height adjustment in to lower the seat a bit. This adjustment is located below the rear-shock rebound adjuster. You have to disconnect the lower shock mount and thread it up into the shock assembly (loosen the jam nut first). Remember not to let the jam nut touch the rebound adjuster. This will give you maybe 1/4" drop.





This resulted in a very small change in seat height level for me. Due to my light weight I don't change the sag on the bike at all when I climb aboard. Looks like I will need to go a bit further and adjust preload.

Fast forward two days and it's preload adjustment time. Very easy to get to and adjust on this bike compared to my old CRF250L. I brought the preload adjustment nuts nearly all the way up on the shock body and barely make it to 3" of race sag. After a quick ride, I immediately noticed far too little rebound damping. The rear end was like pogo stick. I turned the rear compression damping down 1 click and turned the rear rebound damping up 2 clicks. The feel is still not right but it's better and I can get both tip-toes on the ground now. I actually prefer my bikes to be a bit tall. As long as I can get one foot's toe on the ground I'm happy. The stock bike was a bit much for my small frame. I was literally half way off the seat and stretching to get a tip-toe on the ground. After making the adjustments noted above I'm far more comfortable on the bike. If I need to get two feet down on the balls I would grab a lowering link and be right there. Short people can ride these bikes, too!



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Kray screwed with this post 03-01-2015 at 06:39 PM
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Old 03-02-2015, 06:11 AM   #3
JDUBinCO
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Sounds like you need new springs!
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Old 03-02-2015, 07:54 AM   #4
Kray OP
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Originally Posted by JDUBinCO View Post
Sounds like you need new springs!
I will be riding up to Go Race Suspension this summer to have them sort all of that fun stuff out for me.
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Old 03-04-2015, 05:58 AM   #5
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Flatlands Skidplate & Zeta Handguards

I told myself I wasn't going to really ride the bike until I installed proper protection. I called up Brett at SRmoto.com and asked what he could do. If you've read my other builds, he supplied a handful of the parts for the CRF250L. He was happy to send down some bit for the WRR and went the extra mile to help me figure out what was needed. I had my mind set on the flatlands skid but was looking towards Cycra for the handguards. Brett explained that the Zeta kits used Cycra bars with an upgraded inner connection point and their own plastics. He beat everyone else's price so I figured why not. He shipped them out same day and they arrived two business days later.

Fast forward to yesterday. UPS dropped the parts off while I was at work. I rushed home after 5:00 to check out the new bits and get everything installed.

The skidplate was very impressive. I had always considered putting a flatlands on the CRFL but never did due to the number of people saying it had issues. The WRR product must be more refined. It fit like a factory option and looks like a million dollars.

Edit: Just a quick update after using the skidplate for a few weeks. It's loud. Very loud. You notice it as soon as you start the bike and it's always there letting you know that it's vibrating against your nice frame. I now take the skidplate off unless I'm doing an offroad ride. It's unbearably loud at interstate speeds.

The handguards left a little to be desired. Also, keep in mind that I'm installing to the factory steel bars. I had to peel the stickers off of the bars with a heat gun to install the plastics. I went ahead and removed all the stickers to get the look I wanted. The connection at the bar end was....rough. I've never owned a cheaper setup. The crush mechanism inside the bar couldn't have been a full penny to produce. I'm still not 100% okay with that being on my bike and may look to replace that later. The rest of the setup was on par with most anything else on the market. The plastics are small and filled with holes. I like big solid plastics to protect my hands from the wind and elements. These will not do that. I have found that Zeta makes their XC Pro plastics in black and white that are much larger and nearly solid. I will be grabbing a set of those for the bike during winter months. So on to the good stuff:





After it was all said and done I'm fairly happy with the way it turned out. Love the skidplate. Can live with the handguards. I would probably recommend spending the extra coin for a better quality set if you want to do it right. The MSR set I had on the CRFL was twice the product of these Zeta guards and the SW-Motech Kobra handguards on the CBX were S-class Mercedes comparatively speaking.

And the final result after everything was installed:
(Install took probably an hour at the most. The hardest part was wrestling with those crappy bar connectors)
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Kray screwed with this post 04-08-2015 at 09:37 AM
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Old 03-04-2015, 08:06 AM   #6
bobfab
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Looks good, i am excited to follow this thread as i have enjoyed the CRFL & CBX thread!

Regarding handguards and my experience, once you go HDB you will never go back. On previous bikes i had almost every mfg. They are worth the extra cost from a maintenance perspective alone, think of how often you remove the guards to install a new lever, perch or accessory. With the HDB and threaded bars there is no hoping the expansion anchors seat correctly. To continue your car analogy, if the sw's were an s-class; these are the bugatti veyron of guards.

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Old 03-04-2015, 08:39 AM   #7
Kray OP
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Quote:
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Looks good, i am excited to follow this thread as i have enjoyed the CRFL & CBX thread!

Regarding handguards and my experience, once you go HDB you will never go back. On previous bikes i had almost every mfg. They are worth the extra cost from a maintenance perspective alone, think of how often you remove the guards to install a new lever, perch or accessory. With the HDB and threaded bars there is no hoping the expansion anchors seat correctly. To continue your car analogy, if the sw's were an s-class; these are the bugatti veyron of guards.

Thanks for the kind words! I have considered the HDB guards several times in the past but just can't get on board. I'm sure they are very solid bits as many have rave reviews about them, but, in my opinion (full disclosure), HIDEOUSLY ugly and quite expensive once you get them kitted out the way any normal person would want a custom handguard setup. A buddy here had them on his CRFL before it was totaled. I used them for a few days while we traded bikes and they seemed okay, I guess. I'd rather put the saved cash into more fuel for the bike.

More to come!
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Old 03-04-2015, 10:03 AM   #8
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cool, bike build threads are the best ones.

Looked at the HDB guards also but didn't like the looks either, not that that matters much in a crash - they look solid. Great thread.
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Old 03-04-2015, 10:07 AM   #9
Kray OP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Night Falcon View Post
cool, bike build threads are the best ones.

Looked at the HDB guards also but didn't like the looks either, not that that matters much in a crash - they look solid. Great thread.
Thanks! I like when others list their builds in their signature lines so I can return the favor. Also, crashing is for quitters.
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Old 03-04-2015, 10:49 AM   #10
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Going with any performance mods? Gearing for me was best bang for the buck. I went with 13/49 and its much more fun to ride now, as long as no freeway is involved. I switch to 14/49 if I need a highway cruiser. Great thread btw.
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Old 03-04-2015, 01:40 PM   #11
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Going with any performance mods? Gearing for me was best bang for the buck. I went with 13/49 and its much more fun to ride now, as long as no freeway is involved. I switch to 14/49 if I need a highway cruiser. Great thread btw.
I use the same... With 13/49 it will crawl along at a snails pace and it will climb anything, she's really screaming at 70mph though.... The switch to 14/49 makes 70mph more than comfortable...

If you're not planning to tackle anything too extreme there probably isn't the need to go that low, 13/47 seems popular with a lot of people...

:)
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Old 03-04-2015, 01:45 PM   #12
Kray OP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jgreene0717 View Post
Going with any performance mods? Gearing for me was best bang for the buck. I went with 13/49 and its much more fun to ride now, as long as no freeway is involved. I switch to 14/49 if I need a highway cruiser. Great thread btw.
Quote:
Originally Posted by FLICKIT View Post
I use the same... With 13/49 it will crawl along at a snails pace and it will climb anything, she's really screaming at 70mph though.... The switch to 14/49 makes 70mph more than comfortable...

If you're not planning to tackle anything too extreme there probably isn't the need to go that low, 13/47 seems popular with a lot of people...

:)
I honestly wont be using the bike on single track other than a very rare occasion. It's mostly a summer commuter and weekend ADV warrior type rig. This will become more evident as we get further into the build.

However, I do like the idea of being able to simply swap back and forth between 13 and 14 tooth gears depending on what I'm doing. A spare gear doesn't take up that much room in the bag. Hmmmm. Certainly something to consider.
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Old 03-04-2015, 02:31 PM   #13
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I honestly wont be using the bike on single track other than a very rare occasion. It's mostly a summer commuter and weekend ADV warrior type rig. This will become more evident as we get further into the build.

However, I do like the idea of being able to simply swap back and forth between 13 and 14 tooth gears depending on what I'm doing. A spare gear doesn't take up that much room in the bag. Hmmmm. Certainly something to consider.
That's all good in theory, I had the same idea initially, but you need to carry a socket and a decent breaker bar to get the sprocket nut off/on... When tightened to the recommended torque it takes a fair bit of force to get it off...
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Old 03-04-2015, 04:18 PM   #14
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Hi Kray, I'm thinking of trading in my CRF250L as well. It'd be nice if you could do a comparison post somewhere in this thread.
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Old 03-04-2015, 04:30 PM   #15
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Hi Kray, I'm thinking of trading in my CRF250L as well. It'd be nice if you could do a comparison post somewhere in this thread.
I actually hope to when I get a few more miles on the WRR. Right now I don't feel it very fair to compare a bike I put 6000 miles on against a bike with 90 miles.

That being said, just go test ride a WRR and your mind will be made! Understand that low rpm has no torque on the WRR, due to the bikes setup, so keep the revs up a bit.
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