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Old 03-16-2011, 11:06 AM   #6091
wrk2surf
on the gas or brakes
 
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Joined: Dec 2007
Location: THE exact center of California/Bass lake/Yosemite
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I have been mulling over having my buddy machine up a plug and oring with a clip on the inside or similar to do away with that useless thing.. Its un needed for a timing mark.. cant advance it or tweak it.. Mine always freekin leaks after a few thousand and the glass gets micro cracked.. same goes for the glass on the clutch side.. the ONLY advantage I see with that is to see if the pumps are working and oil level.. but if you do service you will know whats up anyway..
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Old 03-16-2011, 11:42 AM   #6092
Geekventure
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Location: San Francisco
Oddometer: 82
Oil window...

It happened once to me...I just pulled the plastic oil window out, decreased it, applied a thin (but enough) epoxy resin, pushed the window back in and wiped any excess off with a clean towel.

JUST MAKE SURE NOT TO LET ANY GET IN THE ENGINE!
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Old 03-16-2011, 03:03 PM   #6093
liferider
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Location: Patagonia
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Ok, I feel invited to do something about it some of these days...
Is this glass installed just by pressure? how do I take it off in order to seal it? must I push it from the inside of the case? ha! there's no cheaper experience than others previous experience...
.
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Old 03-16-2011, 04:21 PM   #6094
dnrobertson
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Joined: Jun 2008
Location: Frankston, Australia
Oddometer: 769
Quote:
Originally Posted by liferider View Post
Ok, I feel invited to do something about it some of these days...
Is this glass installed just by pressure? how do I take it off in order to seal it? must I push it from the inside of the case? ha! there's no cheaper experience than others previous experience...
.
You may need a new gasket (pn : 58430040000 ) for ignition cover doing the following procedure.

1. Lean the bike over on the kick starter side (to drain the oil from the cover you want to remove).
2. Undo 4 bolts (taking note of lengths as they different) and remove ignition cover.
3. Optionally, remove the 3 allen head screws and remove coils from cover.
4. Remove sight glass by pushing from the out side of the cover.
5. Clean the rubber/plastic seal around the sight glass with alcohol etc to remove oil/grease. Do the same to the cover where sight glass goes.
6. I had the required Loctite (648) so I used that and put liberal coating on cover.
7. Push sight glass back into hole (by pushing from inside of cover). I then got a socket that covered the metal sight glass sourround and gave it a gentle tap (with small rubber mallet) to seat the glass a bit more.
8. Re-Fit cover in reverse order of 3 and 2 above.

Let sit for 24 hours. ALL DONE.
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Old 03-16-2011, 04:54 PM   #6095
liferider
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Joined: Nov 2007
Location: Patagonia
Oddometer: 648
Quote:
Originally Posted by dnrobertson View Post
You may need a new gasket (pn : 58430040000 ) for ignition cover doing the following procedure.

1. Lean the bike over on the kick starter side (to drain the oil from the cover you want to remove).
2. Undo 4 bolts (taking note of lengths as they different) and remove ignition cover.
3. Optionally, remove the 3 allen head screws and remove coils from cover.
4. Remove sight glass by pushing from the out side of the cover.
5. Clean the rubber/plastic seal around the sight glass with alcohol etc to remove oil/grease. Do the same to the cover where sight glass goes.
6. I had the required Loctite (648) so I used that and put liberal coating on cover.
7. Push sight glass back into hole (by pushing from inside of cover). I then got a socket that covered the metal sight glass sourround and gave it a gentle tap (with small rubber mallet) to seat the glass a bit more.
8. Re-Fit cover in reverse order of 3 and 2 above.

Let sit for 24 hours. ALL DONE.
dnrobertson, that is what I call "a clean, quick, crystal clear explanation". Now we, who have this major/minor leak, don't have excuse anymore to keep complaining about it...! what are we going to talk about from now on...???
Thanks!
.
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Old 03-16-2011, 05:25 PM   #6096
garfey
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Joined: Sep 2010
Location: Deep East Texas
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Eh?

Quote:
Originally Posted by liferider View Post
dnrobertson, that is what I call "a clean, quick, crystal clear explanation". Now we, who have this major/minor leak, don't have excuse anymore to keep complaining about it...! what are we going to talk about from now on...???
Thanks!
.
Yeah, what he said.
Mine's not leaking but that procedure's so clear and straightforward I want to go out and fix it anyway.
Wait a minnit - if it ain't broke .... !!!
:
:
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Old 03-16-2011, 08:36 PM   #6097
gunnerbuck
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If you chill the sight glass in the freezer and then warm the case area around the sight glass port the job of pressing it in place becomes much easier...
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Old 03-16-2011, 09:27 PM   #6098
garfey
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Location: Deep East Texas
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gunnerbuck View Post
If you chill the sight glass in the freezer and then warm the case area around the sight glass port the job of pressing it in place becomes much easier...
Cool! (pun intended)
Just like pressing in new bearings.
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Old 03-16-2011, 11:26 PM   #6099
Geekventure
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Location: San Francisco
Oddometer: 82
Oil window cont....

  • I was able to use to use 2 Exacto blades as a tweezer to stab the sides and pull it straight out (uniformly).
  • Then I applied the 5min epoxy sparingly to the walls of the plastic window.
  • Then it simply slipped right back in!

Be careful because you can push it too far in, then it would be a bear to get back out!


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Old 03-17-2011, 12:43 PM   #6100
erdsh
KTM 640 Adventure
 
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Joined: Mar 2008
Location: GY
Oddometer: 104
Damage report

My 2001 KTM 640 ADV is now around 50K Km. the reason I'm not sure about the exact KM is due to the broken IMO. I have found a loose wire and the battery was dead. less the 0.5 Volt. I will purchase a new battery and will replace it. If it is not fixing the problem then I'll buy a Vapor from Ebay.
I also need to replace the clutch plates. I'll replace with the original parts and take this opportunity to replace the bearing behind the clutch basket,
as seen in this thread:
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=73558

The clutch just started showing signs of sliping. I hope it'll hold the next weeked rally. 200Km mostly dunes.
Also the fuel pump is formaly dead, I didnt find the time ordering the rebuild kit. I'll do it this weekend (thanks to this forum member which direct me to a store on ebay) after taking this one appart.
I'll post pictures later on.
Good day.
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Old 03-17-2011, 02:15 PM   #6101
clintnz
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Joined: May 2004
Location: Rotoiti, New Zealand
Oddometer: 3,372
Quote:
Originally Posted by erdsh View Post
My 2001 KTM 640 ADV is now around 50K Km. the reason I'm not sure about the exact KM is due to the broken IMO. I have found a loose wire and the battery was dead. less the 0.5 Volt. I will purchase a new battery and will replace it. If it is not fixing the problem then I'll buy a Vapor from Ebay.
I also need to replace the clutch plates. I'll replace with the original parts and take this opportunity to replace the bearing behind the clutch basket,
as seen in this thread:
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=73558

The clutch just started showing signs of sliping. I hope it'll hold the next weeked rally. 200Km mostly dunes.
Also the fuel pump is formaly dead, I didnt find the time ordering the rebuild kit. I'll do it this weekend (thanks to this forum member which direct me to a store on ebay) after taking this one appart.
I'll post pictures later on.
Good day.
Good luck with the repairs - a couple of other jobs you may want to do while you are working on the bike (assuming they haven't been done already) are replace the cam follower rollers & rebuild the water pump, these items are well known for wearing out at around the 50K km mark.

Cheers
Clint
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Old 03-17-2011, 11:14 PM   #6102
Tseta
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I would also take a very close look at the valves. Collective experience shows that many LC4's typically require new valves and possibly valve guides at those kilometers.

-T
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Old 03-18-2011, 05:50 AM   #6103
erdsh
KTM 640 Adventure
 
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Joined: Mar 2008
Location: GY
Oddometer: 104
640 Maintenance

Quote:
Originally Posted by clintnz View Post
Good luck with the repairs - a couple of other jobs you may want to do while you are working on the bike (assuming they haven't been done already) are replace the cam follower rollers & rebuild the water pump, these items are well known for wearing out at around the 50K km mark.

Cheers
Clint
Thanks.
I'll take a look at the valves next time.
The IMO was not fixed, I'll try undestanding it better the next week.
the fuel pump was working well, the fuel line to the carb was dry and it was leaking. I replaced it and I hope this fixed it. I'll test it in the next few days.
I'll replace the clutch next week and then I'll check the water pump and cam rollers.
Thanks a lot.
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Old 03-18-2011, 07:17 AM   #6104
fuzzydude2
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Joined: Oct 2008
Location: Phoenix, Az
Oddometer: 211
neutral light

I have a 1998 620RXC with a Lc4 motor. I had to replace the plastic screw where the neutral light wire attaches. Now it don't work? Anyone have an idea? I am thinking there may be a spring or something that goes in there also but I can not find a part# and does not show anything in the books I got.
thanks,
R-
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Old 03-18-2011, 08:12 AM   #6105
mxchamp
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Location: The corn state,11 curves in 318 miles (Iafalls IA)
Oddometer: 1,446
Talking Bearing puller?

HTML Code:
I'll replace with the original parts and take this opportunity to replace the bearing behind the clutch basket,
as seen in this thread:
My puller is back in my hands if you need to borrow one for this job.

Order the bearing and clutch cover gasket now, it will take awhile to get the items.

PM me for details.
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