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Old 11-22-2012, 09:58 AM   #7651
gunnerbuck
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Joined: Nov 2005
Location: N.V.I, B.C.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MadM View Post
Hi!

I need some help from you. I now own a KLE500 and we all know that KLE's suspension is not as good as it could be, and that is why I am looking in swaping the front end. I spotted a nice 2002 Adv forks on ebay for 100 and need the info on how long these forks are from the top to axle center.

Thanks for your help!

36 inches { 914 MM}
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Old 11-23-2012, 03:39 PM   #7652
tileman
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Wiring question.

I've just picked up a 03 640 and I have a query about the upgrading the power to the headlights.

My bike has a high/low switch on the left and a off/park/light switch on the right. I was planning to upgrade the wiring to both headlights with a fused line from the batt.

My thought was to use a relay at the front end that was triggered from one of the 2 switch plugs under the panel at the front end. That line would then run to another relay that would be triggered by the high/low switch on the left switch block.

Simple enough but it would then delete the need for the switch on the right correct? With my Bandit and DL the low beam is on once the bike has the ignition is on. A relay with 5 spade's eg. 30/85/86/86a/87 would be able to do this. This would simplify the wiring a bit and lose the need for the right hand light switch I figure.

Now someone will undoubtably ask why? Well since I'm running a extra power anyway it actually makes it easier to run the headlights. Also since I plan to run a fuse block at the front it makes it easier for have a multiple output switched circut.

Thoughts on this idea?
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Old 11-24-2012, 04:13 AM   #7653
MadM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gunnerbuck View Post
36 inches { 914 MM}
Thanks, but the forks got sold 5min later, oh well, back on the look out for new cheap set
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Old 11-24-2012, 06:14 AM   #7654
Aussie Steve
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tileman View Post
I've just picked up a 03 640 and I have a query about the upgrading the power to the headlights.

My bike has a high/low switch on the left and a off/park/light switch on the right. I was planning to upgrade the wiring to both headlights with a fused line from the batt.

My thought was to use a relay at the front end that was triggered from one of the 2 switch plugs under the panel at the front end. That line would then run to another relay that would be triggered by the high/low switch on the left switch block.

Simple enough but it would then delete the need for the switch on the right correct? With my Bandit and DL the low beam is on once the bike has the ignition is on. A relay with 5 spade's eg. 30/85/86/86a/87 would be able to do this. This would simplify the wiring a bit and lose the need for the right hand light switch I figure.

Now someone will undoubtably ask why? Well since I'm running a extra power anyway it actually makes it easier to run the headlights. Also since I plan to run a fuse block at the front it makes it easier for have a multiple output switched circut.

Thoughts on this idea?

If you try and kick the bike with the lights on it wont start, the light will suck all the power.

You will have to figure out a way to disable your new wiring if you need to kick start, or keep the switch so you can just switch them off.
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Old 11-24-2012, 08:56 AM   #7655
bmwktmbill
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tileman View Post
I've just picked up a 03 640 and I have a query about the upgrading the power to the headlights.

My bike has a high/low switch on the left and a off/park/light switch on the right. I was planning to upgrade the wiring to both headlights with a fused line from the batt.

My thought was to use a relay at the front end that was triggered from one of the 2 switch plugs under the panel at the front end. That line would then run to another relay that would be triggered by the high/low switch on the left switch block.

Simple enough but it would then delete the need for the switch on the right correct? With my Bandit and DL the low beam is on once the bike has the ignition is on. A relay with 5 spade's eg. 30/85/86/86a/87 would be able to do this. This would simplify the wiring a bit and lose the need for the right hand light switch I figure.

Now someone will undoubtably ask why? Well since I'm running a extra power anyway it actually makes it easier to run the headlights. Also since I plan to run a fuse block at the front it makes it easier for have a multiple output switched circut.

Thoughts on this idea?
Tileman,
If I were you I would plan for your future investment in HID lights.
You write like you get DC wiring, if you are good with a soldering iron you are ready.

That said I would set up two separate fused and relayed power lines off the battery with the relays triggered by the Hi/low switch.

I would use a separate three position switch(on the dash) for the low beam ground wire/low beam power wire so you can switch it "off" when only the low beam is activated by the hi/low switch and then also throwing the 3 way in the opposite direction you can keep the Low beam burning when the High beam circuit is switched on doubling your light power if you choose that option(or work in you right side switch for on off power). You can choose to run with two headlamps, one lamp or no lights.

Now you have real flexibility and two separate systems if you lose a bulb or have a relay or fuse failure and if you decide on HID lights you are ready for two reasons. You have the power to the capsules and you can run both beams simultaneously.

This is important because with HID's there is a lag time as the ballasts warm up. this lag will put you 'in the dark' momentarily switching from Low to High and it is unsafe.

You can get good quality relay kits and HID stuff here and I can vouche for them.
You will have to modify the wire lengths on the relay kits but that's part of the drill, each relay kit is fused separately as well.

http://www.vvme.com/

I would also start separate thread on your headlight ideas/questions.
This should not be buried alive here.
IMHO.
bill
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bmwktmbill screwed with this post 11-24-2012 at 09:05 AM
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Old 11-24-2012, 03:58 PM   #7656
tileman
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Aussie Steve View Post
If you try and kick the bike with the lights on it wont start, the light will suck all the power.

You will have to figure out a way to disable your new wiring if you need to kick start, or keep the switch so you can just switch them off.
Cheers. Much appreciated info. Is this why there is the switch on the right hand switch block? (for future reference)
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tileman screwed with this post 11-24-2012 at 04:10 PM
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Old 11-24-2012, 04:03 PM   #7657
tileman
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bmwktmbill View Post
Tileman,
If I were you I would plan for your future investment in HID lights.
You write like you get DC wiring, if you are good with a soldering iron you are ready.

That said I would set up two separate fused and relayed power lines off the battery with the relays triggered by the Hi/low switch.

I would use a separate three position switch(on the dash) for the low beam ground wire/low beam power wire so you can switch it "off" when only the low beam is activated by the hi/low switch and then also throwing the 3 way in the opposite direction you can keep the Low beam burning when the High beam circuit is switched on doubling your light power if you choose that option(or work in you right side switch for on off power). You can choose to run with two headlamps, one lamp or no lights.

Now you have real flexibility and two separate systems if you lose a bulb or have a relay or fuse failure and if you decide on HID lights you are ready for two reasons. You have the power to the capsules and you can run both beams simultaneously.

This is important because with HID's there is a lag time as the ballasts warm up. this lag will put you 'in the dark' momentarily switching from Low to High and it is unsafe.

You can get good quality relay kits and HID stuff here and I can vouche for them.
You will have to modify the wire lengths on the relay kits but that's part of the drill, each relay kit is fused separately as well.

http://www.vvme.com/

I would also start separate thread on your headlight ideas/questions.
This should not be buried alive here.
IMHO.
bill
Cheers Bill.

To be honest I have tried to HID route on my last project bike and in the end it didn't work for me. Nothing against HIDs themselves or people who like them. I'm going to try the LED route with an adjustable dimmer circut on the low beam side. Although all this is down the track, just someone mentioned upgrading the power to the lights hence my queries.
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Old 11-25-2012, 12:17 AM   #7658
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I finally found where the metal paste on the oil plug was coming from... 100 kilometers into ss1 I loose the clutch feeling... After ten kilometers the clutch refuses to disengage... I stop and I swap the clutch cable with a new one.
After 100 metres the winning noise pierces my earplugs... . I continue with clutchless changes for another 20 k into the stage and as soon as I find the highway I call my support... We decide that it is better to loose this ss and go asap there in case we manage to fix it.
5 km into the highway, the bike died.

I think that the clutch bearing disintegrated. The metal from the bearing, all other damages aside, mechanically speaking, I was told that the metal parts go into the generator and destroy it... It seems logical...


Any thoughts? To change the clutch bearing we need to strip down the engine? Is it better to strip it down to clean the destroyed bearing parts?
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Old 11-30-2012, 06:51 AM   #7659
hAjPR
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New 640A owner

Hi guys,

it's pleasure to announce this - after 3 long years w/o any bike in the house I purchased this baby:

'07 640A - looking brand new althought it's got 30k km on the clock. Quite a hard task to get one with low mileage for a reasonable price here in Europe...I got mine for about USD 5000. IMHO the best deal in the country! It's got some extras: ALU panniers, Hepco rails, Oxford heated grips, TT lights protection, bar risers, SW motech side stand and so...otherwise it' completely stock, no jetting mods, exhaust, restrictors or airbox...previous owner told me that it does not require any mods at all, stock is perfect...well, let's see after some riding time



I'll come back to you with some better pics soon!
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Old 11-30-2012, 07:05 AM   #7660
joe cool
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Congratulations ! Nice ride. I have an 07 as well.
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Old 11-30-2012, 01:34 PM   #7661
Alik
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Congratulations! But why 2 fenders :> ;)
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Old 11-30-2012, 03:30 PM   #7662
hAjPR
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Congratulations! But why 2 fenders :> ;)
Well, don't ask me ... :) But the good thing is that I can which one to use...right?
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Old 11-30-2012, 03:43 PM   #7663
pebble35
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My 2001 640 arrived today





Needs a bit of love and attention but the price was right !
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Old 12-02-2012, 03:44 AM   #7664
Tutaki
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Oh what have I done

Howdy I was changing the oil in my 2006 640 adv dropped the oil in the frame, the drain bolt which is got to when the spin off oil filter is removed. No probes oil came out. When it came to screwing the bolt back in. There was nothing to screw it to. I am very sure nothing fell out when I undid it. Nothing on the floor. I cheeked the oil I changed nothing there. I have looked in the parts manual there isn't any insert or bush. Dose anyone know what that bolt screwed to?
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Old 12-02-2012, 05:06 AM   #7665
Rock Rover
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Thanks to all the contributors who have added their knowledge and experience to this thread. Have been lurking for quite a while and am glad to see that it is still running well. Bought my 2005 640 Adv in 2008, in as new condition, with less than 3,500km on the clock.
Have ridden on many off-road adventures and tours around the local hinterland of outback Queensland, Australia. Recently, with a change of work location, I have had to transform my ride back into a commuter. It is appreciated how this thread has morphed into a more considered approach to the KTMs setup and maintenance.

Many suggestions that have been raised on this site have found their way onto my bike.
SW-MOTECH Sidestand Norrus, Townsville, Qld
Front Guard - 950 Adv High Fender Kit Wayne Leonards, Cairns, Qld
Sheep skin seat cover Wooly Fleeece, Cairns, Qld
Hepco & Becker Crash bar/ Tank protector Motorrad Garage, WA
Soft Rack Dalby Moto, Qld
Andy Strapz Expedition Pannierz Dalby Moto, Qld
Headlight Guard Touratech, Vic
Carburettor jetting recommendations Ross @ Dalby Moto
155 Main (1525 Std.)
45 Pilot (45 Std.)
Lean needle down - 2nd circlip groove down from top (3rd Std.)
Enrich mixture - open mixture screw turn to about 2-2 turns (2 Std.)
Look forward to reading more maintenance tips and lavish modifications.

Cheers Rock
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