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Old 01-26-2013, 08:52 AM   #16
tasslehawf
Adventurer
 
Joined: Jun 2011
Location: Austin, TX
Oddometer: 23
Heh. I am having this problem as well. The choke is definitely giving me problems, as it is currently broken and I'm waiting on parts to fix it (hoping this is will fix the high idle, but we'll see).

Quote:
Originally Posted by His Pistolship View Post
But how would that change when the bike heats up? My KLR has the same high idle when hot, when I have been in stuck in stop and go traffic for a long time. But when it is running cooler, I only have a little upwards creep with the idle speed. It hasn't gotten worse than 2000 rpm yet, so I have just ignored it. I just figure it is the result of an older carburated bike. (2001, 13,000 miles).

I will check the cable however. But that doesn't explain why it gets worse when the bike heats up. I am interested in more suggestions.
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Old 01-26-2013, 01:11 PM   #17
Beezer
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Joined: Oct 2004
Location: Anchorage, formerly Spenard (hub of the universe)
Oddometer: 5,369
well there is a pull cable that returns you to idle... if that is set correctly it should be able to overcome anything up to "boulder" size that gets stuck in the works.

as for the enricher... make yourself one of these from a spare 12mm:



then you won't break the bugger. I can even undo the enricher with the tank on
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Old 01-26-2013, 01:23 PM   #18
Beezer
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Joined: Oct 2004
Location: Anchorage, formerly Spenard (hub of the universe)
Oddometer: 5,369
BTW, when you twist the throttle on a CV carb you are opening a butterfly valve that lets in more air, but that also changes the pressure on the main diaphragm. the diaphragm lifts the "real" throttle valve and the fuel metering needle.

any air leak on the engine side of the throttle valve is sensed by the diaphragm as a more open throttle position

a leaking main diaphragm (torn, hole, etc) results in less lift and the engine will not go over about 4000 rpm

not sure what a leaking anti backfire valve would do because I haven't had to deal with that one
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