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Old 08-19-2014, 08:49 PM   #16051
iconman
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Fantastic looking bike Garry.
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Old 08-20-2014, 12:18 AM   #16052
CCM/GARRY
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Yep that the one ROB the pictures looked good on ebay but it was a mess when i picked it up, but it"s fully rebuilt with mr hesslers pumper carbies bigger header pipe and now a pair of arrows mufflers .
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Old 08-20-2014, 03:46 AM   #16053
robmoto
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Gary are you happy with the performance, if not a mid to top end cam grind from Waggots Sydney gives them a fair bit of extra hoot , I got one in my motard.
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Old 08-20-2014, 09:27 AM   #16054
Vistar
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Translation into German..

Quote:
Originally Posted by Bambi View Post
Hello shanekfalcon,
your problem is very well known in the 'Big'-world.
Our generators run in the engine-oil, which offers some cooling to it. But it also hardens the wires. Thanks to the balancer-shafts, you don't feel much vibration of the engine. But vibrate it does, causing - for example - your hardend generator-wires to break. Ok, you can also cause a failure there by yourself: Get them generator-cables trapped between the mating surfaces of crankcase and outer cover ...
As soldering that small-diameter cables in that cramped area is rather tricky, here in Germany it's a common way to give the alternator to a specialist that can handle this kind of trouble. It costs you some 180 - 200 EUR here. Had exactly that prob on my own Miss Marlboro. The trigger-coil came loose in it's seat thus breaking the connecting cables. Gave it to one of the bespoke specialists. That's been 11 years ago. Sadly, after fitting that re-conditioned generator, my cam-chain snapped, ruining my cylinder-head. Because of a shortage of money it took me 'til 2008 to get the bike running again.
In the meantime, Stefan offers this generator-repair-Service in his shop, too.
Kind regards, Bambi
Hallo Bambi,
I'm having the same symptoms and belive my bike has the same problem..
Since i am a forigner living in a German speaking area, my german technical vocabulary is close to zero.. Would you be kind and describe the problem in German so i can show it to my mechanic and sort it out once and for all..?
Danke.
Vistar, Zürich.
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Old 08-20-2014, 12:03 PM   #16055
SaltyCaptain
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Joined: Jan 2013
Location: Western Finland
Oddometer: 277
Went from a TA to CBR600 to DR800 this summer. It's a bit different than the usual Big having a DR650 tank and front fender and proper lights. Haven't weighted it yet but it feels light to push around and goes well on trails. Oh, all kinds of performance mods too, seller claimed 60 hp (pretty believable too, top end really rips!) Too bad the fuel consumption is in line with that too Current color scheme is red/white/black as I had old 650 bits lying around - much better. Next up would be agressive knobbies (I have a set of 1990 DR650 wheels - they fit straight eh?) and a heavy duty skid plate.









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Old 08-21-2014, 04:10 PM   #16056
Bambi
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Hello Vistar,
so let's give it a try:

Dein Problem ist alt-bekannt in der 'Big'-Welt.
Unsere Lichtmaschinen laufen im Motoröl, was Ihnen ein wenig Kühlung bietet. Aber dadurch verhärten auch die Anschlußkabel. Dank der Ausgleichswellen fühlst Du kaum Vibrationen vom Motor. Aber er vibriert doch, was - zum Beispiel - zum Bruch der verhärteten Kabel führt. Ok, Du kannst dort auch selbst einen Fehler einbauen: indem Du die Lichtmaschinenkabel zwischen den Dichtflächen des Kurbelgehäuses und des Lichtmaschinendeckels einklemmst ...
Löten der dünnen Kabel auf diesem engen Raum ist sehr schwierig. Deshalb ist es hier in Deutschland üblich, den Lichtmaschinenstator zu einem mit diesem Problem vertrauten Spezialisten zu geben. Es kostet Dich ca. 180 - 200 EUR. Ich hatte genau dieses Problem an meiner eigenen Miss Marlboro. Bei mir löste sich die Geber-Spule in ihrem Lager und dabei brachen die Anschlußkabel. Ich habe den Stator zu einem der angesprochenen Spezialisten gegeben. Das ist jetzt 11 Jahre her. Dummerweise ist mir nach dem Einbau der überholten Lichtmaschine die Steuerkette übergesprungen und hat dabei den Zylinderkopf zerstört. Weil ich damals knapp bei Kasse war hat es bis 2008 gedauert bis die Maschine wieder lief. Inzwischen bietet auch Stefan Hessler die Lichtmaschinen-Reparatur in seinem Shop an.

For comparison - zum Vergleich:


Your problem is very well known in the 'Big'-world.
Our generators run in the engine-oil, which offers some cooling to it. But it also hardens the wires. Thanks to the balancer-shafts, you don't feel much vibration of the engine. But vibrate it does, causing - for example - your hardend generator-wires to break. Ok, you can also cause a failure there by yourself: Get them generator-cables trapped between the mating surfaces of crankcase and outer cover ...
As soldering that small-diameter cables in that cramped area is rather tricky, here in Germany it's a common way to give the alternator to a specialist that can handle this kind of trouble. It costs you some 180 - 200 EUR here. Had exactly that prob on my own Miss Marlboro. The trigger-coil came loose in it's seat thus breaking the connecting cables. Gave it to one of the bespoke specialists. That's been 11 years ago. Sadly, after fitting that re-conditioned generator, my cam-chain snapped, ruining my cylinder-head. Because of a shortage of money it took me 'til 2008 to get the bike running again.
In the meantime, Stefan offers this generator-repair-Service in his shop, too.



Some more words, Vista:
Swiss-German can truly differ from 'my' German. If in need of more explantions - ask me! I've tried to give you a real copy down to the use of signs and smileys to give you some kind of orientation where in that text you are.

My best bet would be: check that generator. I could send you the figures that should result from your measuring. Maybe it's even better to ask Stefan by phone or by E-Mail as I'm only experienced with the 750 cc SR 41! If your generator is shot, contact Stefan, he should already be back from his Holiday now or within a few days. I could also supply you with one or two other German specialists. Or I connect you to some Swiss friends from our German Forum. They even run a Meeting from August 29. to 31., look here:
http://www.dr-big.de/forum/viewtopic.php?f=16&t=82797
Have a look and if there are more questions, ask here or via PN.
Kind regards, Bambi
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Old 08-22-2014, 07:47 AM   #16057
wundis
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Location: Vilnius, Lithuania
Oddometer: 75
oddity

Hello Big guys,

Just wanted to share an extreme oddity with my Big:

After spending an evening at the local go-kart track, I unpleasantly discovered that there was an oil leak from the left hand side cover. Wasn't much, but it looked messy. I thought that since I use silicone instead of proper gaskets, perhaps running the engine in extreme conditions pushed my silicon away and resulted in a leak.
After coming home I was surprised - nearly all of the screws that held the left side cover in place were completely loose. I mean... 3-5 turns loose. Some of them are hidden behind the plastic bash plate, so sabotaging (why? im such a nice person... ) would be tricky... Could they have unscrewed themselves on their own? I normally tighten the 8 size screws up to 12 Nm, but I haven't used locktite on the cover screws, so I guess that's something I need to start doing.
Check yours!
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Old 08-22-2014, 09:07 AM   #16058
MrPopples
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Who was searching for some red plastics already?
http://www.leboncoin.fr/equipement_m...74.htm?ca=16_s

on the french "craigs' list" :)
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Old 08-22-2014, 09:58 AM   #16059
Ladder106
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I was but have decided a repaint is easier and less expensive than shipping those large pieces. Thanks for the tip.
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Old 08-23-2014, 04:39 AM   #16060
Bambi
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Hello all, hello Vistar,
I've been in-accurat in my discription:
For the price of 180- 200 EUR you'll get your whole Stator reconditioned and rewound, not just a fixture of those cables for the trigger.
And in German:
Ich war ein wenig undeutlich in meiner Erklärung:
Für den Preis von 180 - 200 EUR bekommst Du den ganzen Stator überholt und neu gewickelt, nicht nur die Kabel des Zündungsgebers angelötet.
Sorry for that, kind regards, Bambi
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Old 08-25-2014, 05:48 AM   #16061
robmoto
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Location: Australia
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wundis View Post
Hello Big guys,

Just wanted to share an extreme oddity with my Big:

After spending an evening at the local go-kart track, I unpleasantly discovered that there was an oil leak from the left hand side cover. Wasn't much, but it looked messy. I thought that since I use silicone instead of proper gaskets, perhaps running the engine in extreme conditions pushed my silicon away and resulted in a leak.
After coming home I was surprised - nearly all of the screws that held the left side cover in place were completely loose. I mean... 3-5 turns loose. Some of them are hidden behind the plastic bash plate, so sabotaging (why? im such a nice person... ) would be tricky... Could they have unscrewed themselves on their own? I normally tighten the 8 size screws up to 12 Nm, but I haven't used locktite on the cover screws, so I guess that's something I need to start doing.
Check yours!
Never had that trouble before and I do mine around 6NM maybe yours are stripped .
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Old 08-25-2014, 10:44 AM   #16062
kstklt
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Oddometer: 19
Question about the wiring diagram

hi guys, I need a big favour on identifying a few wires on the wiring diagram ...

I been studying the Big wiring diagrams for a while and I figured I need to make a colour copy of it so it's easier for me to work. I can identify most of the wires colours on the diagram, however there are still quite a few that I couldn't read clearly due to the limitation of resolution. I understand I should cross check with the wires on my bike but because I am working at a different city, and the Big is at my home town so I don't have a chance to cross check ... Thats why I wish to colour the diagram and understand it now, so whenever i got the chance to get back home I can work on it immediately. =) So your help would be greatly appreciated!

I had marked the wires that i'm not sure what the colours is with numbers in purple colour, there are 12 of them, can anyone with a higher resolution copy of the diagram help varify the colours?

Wire colours:
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
7.
8.
9.
10.
11.
12.

And also, there are a few components that I'm not sure what they are, and I mark them in GREEN:
a. The E looking symbol, does that means GROUND?
b. What is b?
c. Are those just connectors?




I appologize to just keep asking questions ... I wish to ride the bike too to far away places like you guys, but it needs to first get back alive ...

Thank You!
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Old 08-25-2014, 03:11 PM   #16063
MrPopples
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I have the diagram on paper, I'll cross-check :)

I can answer for a and b:
a: yes, this is the Ground, usually taken on the frame of the bike.
b: this is a DC motor, a circle with a M in it. it's your starter motor.
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Old 08-26-2014, 07:13 AM   #16064
kstklt
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MrPopples View Post
I have the diagram on paper, I'll cross-check :)

I can answer for a and b:
a: yes, this is the Ground, usually taken on the frame of the bike.
b: this is a DC motor, a circle with a M in it. it's your starter motor.
Thank you so much Mr.Popples!
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Old 08-26-2014, 07:46 AM   #16065
Resi
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Location: Nassau Area
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kstklt View Post
[...] cross check ... [...]
Well, take a look at my website for color schemes...

http://bollertante.de/site/index.php...laene-in-farbe

Please use "GTranslate" on my site for translation.
These schemes are PDF, so they won't be translated ;)

Cheers,
Lars
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